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Zapraszamy do obejrzenia krA?tkiego wywiadu dla eska.tv - zrealizowanego przy okazji wrA™czania nominacji dla Libera i Sylwii na EMA 2009. In the wake of the troubled teen idol's DUI arrest in Miami, reports are circulating that the singer's handlers want to put him in rehab for an addiction to the homemade party drink, commonly a mixture of prescription drugs codeine and promethazine sweetened with soda and Jolly Ranchers. It's entirely possible to be addicted to the drink, which produces a slowed-down, sleepy high, experts say. Other times sizzurp drinkers may turn to stronger syrups that contain hydrocodone, said Dr. When the drink is mixed with alcohol or combined with other prescription drugs that can slow down breathing, like Xanax, results can be fatal, experts agreed. Last year rapper Lil Wayne, who's made no secret of his love of sizzurp, suffered a series of hospitalizations after seizures reportedly related to his codeine use. I pulled out a topo and after a careful inspection suggested a closer approach to the highway by taking a compass bearing and romping across four miles of the trail-less juniper forested plateau.
As we traversed the trail-less mesa, I fixed my eyes on red soil between junipers, scanning, searching. So upon this two-hour cross country trek, which necessity forced me to hike, I looked continuously for my arrowhead. My hiking compadre and I watched the setting sun for forty minutes alongside the empty highway. I was so astounded by their selflessness; I tried to shove 50 dollars into the young man’s hand, to at least buy them supper. Rising from the sea of Arizonan deserts to peer down at Eagle Mesa, Sentinel Rock, and towering monoliths of Monument Valley such as Big Indian, Rain God Mesa, and Yei Be Chei, is a lands-end called the Cedar Mesa plateau. Located on the southern border of Utah, this plateau rises with jagged cliffs that bar access from the south, except by way of a breathtaking and harrowing switchback road carved into Cedar Mesa’s very rock face—the infamous Moki Dugway. Ancient and modern man alike have stood atop the dramatic edge of this uplift surveying distances so vast as to cause them to ponder the mystical, as well as the geographic. Even the prehistoric Native American culture known as the Anasazi dwelt here in relatively brief episodes.
Perhaps Cedar Mesa’s most inhabited canyon in prehistoric times, Grand Gulch keeps her stories as secretively as she hides her water in summer. It’s probable that modern descendants of the Anasazi, such as the Hopi or Zuni, know snippets of the story to Grand Gulch’s past. High above us on the canyon rims, enthroned hoodoos silhouetted in slanted crimson light test the complacency of our perceptions, stir our quest for meaning. Perfume released from desert sage by morning’s dew, or autumn’s yellow dancing in cotton wood leaves, if only for a moment, lend us solemnity and peace. And if, per chance, our desert visit is graced by the spirits of rain, we might watch as the canyon’s come alive with water pouring from high alcoves in hundred foot free falling cascades, backlit by reflective desert varnish. Still, after coming to this place, who is not affected by the inscrutable painted symbols and enigmatic hearths mortared into the very masonry of the canyon walls?
Isn’t this about the point in a guide when you expect to be lectured on good stewardship of our fragile, perishing wilderness? Over mothering of Grand Gulch visitors by administrators is perhaps understandable, and has arisen naturally because of the past offenses of some. To me irresponsibility doesn’t fit the modus operandi of someone strapping on 50 pounds in effort to follow a path of heart into a remote canyon, nor of someone who has conscientiously searched to find and read the material you are now reading. Grand Gulch begins as a small arroyo in the north of the Cedar Mesa Plateau off Utah State Highway 261. Some of the more notable side entries are Todie Canyon and Bullet Canyon with their amazing Anasazi ruins, Perfect Kiva and Jailhouse Ruin. Collins Spring Canyon nearly bisects Grand Gulch and makes an ideal exit point when journeying from the top. The upper section is relatively easy hiking with only a 500 foot elevation difference in 36 miles to the Collins Canyon intersection. Most that explore the lower section turn around once the reach the San Juan River gorge to return the way they came. In the following sections I’ll present maps and trail details, suggest several routes, paint the pictures, and tell you of her places and her stories, so that upon your visit you might get much more from the Grand Gulch Experience. Given the fears and taboo’s of the Indians that later settled the southwest, it’s little wonder that after the Ancient Puebloans left Grand Gulch in the mid-1200’s their canyon dwellings, abandoned belongings, and grave-bearing middens remained unvisited, unmolested—lay quietly under gathering desert sand for six hundred years…until the arrival of the white man. The first explorers, McLoyd and Graham, quickly followed by the Wetherills, took thousands of Ancestral Pueblo skeletons, preserved foodstuffs, baskets, pots and other artifacts. Typical of people that settled in the Colorado Plateau, first explorers made a living doing whatever the land would provide; mining, trapping, ranching, carpentering.
As the allure of the relics being unearthed caused a transformation from “digging of artifacts” into “archeological collecting enterprises”. Pictures from those expeditions tell stories that could never be comprehended from looking at relics in the drawers of museum basements. Nowadays, we travel to Grand Gulch on asphalt highways past towns, ranches, reservations, and farming complexes. The wind lashing from the canyon depths blasted the riders with acres of airborne sand mixed with stabbing needles of ice.
Richard systematically scanned the horizontal bands of sheer cliff below him looking for any gaps his party might use for descent. Richard slid his bandanna up the bridge of his nose in a futile attempt to protect his eyes from the blowing sand. Unheeding of the Ute’s warning, Richard and his brother John discovered the cliff palaces of Mesa Verde. A year later, Richard and another brother Al, packed a sizable collection, and took it to Durango then Denver, giving lectures on the Mesa Verde marvels. The early November squall raging through Grand Gulch made his mounted companions look veiled and miserable.

No scientific men came to answer his call to research the Anasazi dwellings, and in light of the growing trend to maraud the ancient dwellings, Richard took the study upon himself.
ROAD SIGNS by Jay Archer  David After a near-fatal climbing accident, David tries to return home–But the Road is no longer what it seems.
Justin Bieber reportedly addicted to dangerous drink favored by rappers like Lil WayneA  The homemade concoction is well-known among young people due to its mention in hip-hop lyrics, and can even be deadly, experts say. We’re absolutely hosed.” Fatalistically, I took the key from the 4WD ignition and sank weary bones into a worn-out driver’s seat.
The young couple that eventually stopped, drove the only car we’d seen in that span of time.
The Dine, or Navajo, tell stories of the mist people emerging from subterranean levels to this ‘Glittering World’. But this stark and beautiful landscape seems to resist any sort of permanence for human kind. Modern archaeologists have unraveled some of her past and attempted to place her in the larger mystery of the Ancient Puebloans. So visitors are left to puzzle amongst cryptic prehistoric clues, uncannily preserved by the desert air.
Austerity and grandeur draw us into her depths for the same reasons that humans have ever sought to be here. Plus there are plenty who've worked their way into the ranks of the park administrators who feel possessive upon seeing beauty and are mistrusting of man. Grand Gulch is over 52 miles in length with numerous side canyons that allow for loop trips and shorter excursions. On its fifty mile journey into the barren and deep gorges of the San Juan River, it is joined by numerous side canyons, many that are equal to Grand Gulch in their splendor. Ten major canyon systems merge into the gulch, and twice that number again of smaller canyons drain into it.
The San Juan River Gorge is bounded by 1000 foot vertical walls that limit further exploration and deny routes for all but those on canoe or raft. They took great care during their own burial ceremonies to ensure the dead would not return to the world of the living. When the rancher and famous amateur archeologist, Richard Wetherill, organized the Hyde Exploring Expedition only a handful of white men had seen Grand Gulch in four centuries. Green purchased the first-to-be-seen artifacts of Grand Gulch from McLoyd and Graham for $3,000.
For some, the lure of money to be gained from selling relics added prospecting for artifacts to the list of potential livelihoods. Richard Wetherill initiated pioneering expeditions which became the cornerstone of Southwestern Archeology.
His leather chaps fluttered and cracked loudly in the gale, making the only sound audible above the wind’s roar.
The day before the attack, white men had gone to Beaver Creek with the sole intention of stealing Ute horses.
Living by strict Quaker principals, the Wetherills had befriended the Ute and Navajo as naturally as they did white men. Even for this expedition, travelling through Ute encampments where the Wetherills were not known, and in spite of open unfriendliness and threats, Richard remained unarmed, relying instead on common sense. They made footprints in dust covered dwelling floors that had been undisturbed for nearly a thousand years. During his Chicago exhibitions he’d met the Hyde brothers, wealthy inheritors of a New York empire built on selling soap. They spent the next four hours on a ten mile-an-hour dirt road just to give our vehicle a jump. He told me I now had a debt, and I was required to repay it to other travelers I found in need. The Hopi say that first people climbed through a Sipapu portal near the Grand Canyon and embarked on a series of great migrations leaving symbols to show where they’d been. Though are hearts would have us remain, it appears the nature of our relationship with this rugged province is that we are but visitors. There are incandescent crevices and scant hand holds inviting us to explore above, below, into, and through—to find sacred places of our own. In my experience, those that lack information for a particular area tend to educate themselves, as naturally as looking into the weather and the likelihood of finding water in the desert environ.
The upper section boast the majority of well know cultural dwellings and two famous pictograph areas Big Man Panel and Green Mask. However, if you are a hardy adventurer, and quite sure of your skills, half way up the walls of the San Juan gorge it is possible to traverse 3 ? miles on an exposed cliff face across to Slickhorn Canyon and exit there.
Those entrusted to burying the dead would wear nothing but moccasins, smear their bodies with ash to protect themselves from evil spirits, and then transport the corpse to an obscure place away from people.
Even when a collection is documented as being from Grand Gulch, no one knows which specific sites the artifacts came from.
From our twenty-first century perspective of vanishing wilderness, the loss and destructive removal of antiquities in the late 1800’s might seem criminal.
Richard lurched forward to grab the saddle horn for balance and to keep from being blown from his seat. A townsman had often warned Richard that if he continued wearing this attire he might be shot for a Ute. The storm’s bitter cold and the thought of that townsman’s bigoted warning, combined to darken Richard's mood. They came across a man with his two squaws and children resting by the river while fattening five horses and a small herd of sheep on good grass.
Because of their long friendship, Acowitz eventually told a secret to Richard, a thing unknown to white men.

In light of his father’s failed health, and being the oldest, Richard was responsible for keeping the Alamo ranch solvent in the face of its tremendous burden of debt. Some called Richard a pot hunter or mercenary, selling Mesa Verde antiquities as souvenirs from a small barn on the Alamo ranch that had become a museum of sorts. They provided funding for this first Grand Gulch expedition, and would become the benefactors of the future explorations for the remainder of his life.
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Instead they educate tellers of traditional history who apprentice for ten or more years before being permitted to officially speak the accounts of their people’s past.
Except for Todie and Bullet, most of these side canyon systems are infrequently visited, yet they offer distinctive rewards of their own. With the exception of Richard Wetherill, the early explorers kept minimal notes, if any at all.
Green later sold the collection to Chicago’s Field Museum of Natural History where it resides today.
Better to be shot than freeze to death, Richard thought, not knowing how prophetic that was.
The white men fired into the camp killing the man, one of his squaws, and then shot one of his children.
Though scattered, small, and dilapidated ruins suggested an older people had once lived within these valleys, nothing like what Acowitz described to Richard had ever been seen by white settlers.
Everything that was heavy lay about on the ground, in corners, as though the inhabitants had just set them down and might return at any moment. The collection to be removed from the canyon he now gazed into was slated for the American Museum of Natural History, a distinguished institution of science. But he explained the idea was to hold out battery cables to any passerby to indicate trouble with our vehicle rather than trouble from us.
No sooner had my brother spoke those words, then he paused in mid-stride, bent down, and picked up an extremely rare, milky-white, T-shaped bird point. I’ll leave that to the BLM and their twenty minute training video required in obtaining a backcountry permit. He related what he considered an ugly example of a scout leader that obstinately marched a charcoal grill into the gulch even though fires are prohibited. Grand Gulch artifacts also made their way to the American Museum of Natural History in New York, and some as far away as Helsinki, Finland.
The horse’s ears were pinned back against the wind, but also rotated to listen for any signal from the rider that it was time to retreat from the ledge’s punishment.
In a few years it will be his fate to be shot and killed, but not as an Indian, rather by an Indian—a Navajo will take his life in one of irony’s most evil twists, for the Indians never had better friends than in the Wetherills. After the Utes retaliated at the Guenther’s homestead, troops were dispatched from Fort Lewis, but by then panic had spread through the valley.
The canyon he was laboring to enter was four days journey from the mountains and valleys the Ute claimed as their traditional home.
Stone axes, with hefty blades still lashed to their wooden handles, pottery bowls, mugs and large jars for carrying water. But a preponderance of relics are scattered and disassociated, their significance and context lost. As Richard leaned into another blast of air, he imagined Tom Guenther opening the front door of his burning cabin to meet a chest full of lead.
Utes never go there, it is a sacred place.” Richard had pleaded, demanded to know how to find it. In subsequent visits, using shovels to excavate beneath the floors, the Wetherills found further surprises, as they unearthed burials. He soon stopped selling pieces as he began to realize the importance of his mounting discoveries. A twenty-three mile hike out a dirt road to the nearest paved highway, to the closest place a car might, per-chance, pause rather than speed by. I’ve met you on countless remote trails, over hundreds of wilderness miles, for dozens of years. Upon pressing him, the patroller said that had been last season, or, maybe it had been two or three seasons before.
They found three sick Indians on the bank keening in distress, one all but dead from pneumonia.
He was staunch and resolute—for he knew with this expedition he was entering a new field of archaeology, something untouched by the science of ethnology. The first white settlers they came upon were the Guenther family, who lived on a small farm just nine miles west of the Wetherill’s Alamo ranch.
Though Richard was uneducated and untutored in science, he was a determined and ingenious pioneer.
The value of the collection would rely on his ability to document every aspect of the work that lay ahead. He’d prepared as best he could, devising techniques to measure, log, and record his findings. Aside from rifles for hunting, he carried reams of paper, shovels, brushes, months of supplies, and mules to pack out the volumes of pottery, relics, and skeletons that warned him to turn away.

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