How to change oil pan in nissan altima,how to meditate for beginners deepak chopra pdf,change default browser dreamweaver,famous quotes for change management - Step 3

09.07.2014
NOTE: Some vehicles may be high enough off the ground to reach the oil filter and oil pan and may not require raising the vehicle. Use only SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Engine Oil that meets Chrysler Material Standard MS-11106 or Mercedes Benz MB 229.51 and ACEA C3 qualified engine oils. MOPAR® API Certified SAE 5W-20 engine oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Synthetic Engine Oils: You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed. MOPARĀ® API Certified SAE 5W-20 engine oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Once the vehicle has been jacked up, and secured, the first thing to do is remove the oil cap ontop of the engine. Now remove the oil drain bolt from the oil pan on the engine, and let the oil drain into a oil catch pan like in this photo above.
I've noticed that there are people interested in changing their own oil, but they are turned away by its complexity. I would have been intimidated by the project if it were not for these instructions, so many thanks to liv2ryd.
Firstly, even if you have air suspension (which we don't) I don't see how this can be done without lifting the front of the vehicle. Also, be sure to replace the O-rings on the oil filter cap drain plug and on the oil filter cap.
I'd be leery of doing this on a V8, since it actually has two low areas in the pan, hence the reason for two drain plugs. That said, I quail at the thought of 14 Liters of used diesel oil (which is the nastiest stuff on the planet) cascading out of our TDI egg into my 3-gallon drain pan, and will probably take the car to our dealer for its oil changes. Khaug, if you're ever in our area we could probably work out a deal where my wife can cook you some good food in exchange for letting me drive any of you listed vehicles.
You can pump the V6 and V10,but the V8 leaves abput 1 liter in the other part of the oil pan and is not recommended. Jdixon, you are most welcome to drive any of our stable any time you're in the Lansing, MI, area. Right now, Bernd is sitting in his trailer, dirty, with beaucoup track rubber marks on his hide, and I'm lazing out doing the necessary work to get him back to pristine condition! Now we're cooking; just unscrew the cap (Sorry I don't know what size the hex is, but it's NOT 36mm, more like a 30 or 32mm. Now for the bottom side, the bottom cover is just like the older models (except it does not have that cool NACA scoop, but the cutout and rivet holes for it are there; I guess they decided to save a few bucks). There is only a single drain plug (as far as I could tell), which takes a 6mm allen wrench (an allen socket works better). Position your BIG oil pan under the plug, unscrew it (make SURE you have the allen wrench all the way into the oil plug, you don't want to strip it out), and out comes the oil. 4) Remove 3 screws holding air intake plenum, loosen hose clamp from large hose that routes air from plenum to intake. 7) Clean out oil filter cartridge, then install new filter element (comes with new o-ring).


Here's how some observers would tell me how to do it: take the twist ties off the engine and remove the engine, then unsnap the top half of the engine off and take an eyedropper and add more oil, place the engine back inside making sure it is not upside down, use new twist tie to secure engine. Under the car, on jack stands, engine cover removed, showing location where I used a floor jack to lift (before removing lower engine cover).
Oil Filter manifold with canister removed, and canister with the old filter and the replacement filter.
Position floor jack in place, entering from the driver's side of the vehicle and centering it on the cross beam. Reaching in under the front of the vehicle, carefully install jackstands near the left and right sides. Carefully drive vehicle onto ramps, place vehicle in Park, secure parking brake and turn off ignition.
With a clean shop rag, reach up and clean around the contact area of the oil filter mounting plate. Some owners have reported a slight to moderate overfill reading on the dipstick when installing a full 7 quarts. DO NOT over tighten the bolt, as this will result in stripping out the threads inside the oil pan. Slightly lube the new oil filter with oil on the gasket, then tighten the new oil filter by hand ONLY. There are, as expected, significant differences between the older V-8 and the new one; Here's my attempt to show them. Place the pan well to the rear, it comes out as a pretty strong stream and goes further to the rear than you might think. Slowly raise the jack enough to slightly lift the vehicle, then re-check that the jack is still centered front to back on the beam.
I also usually "pre-oil" the filter, putting in just enough oil so that it won't spill out when being reinstalled.
I drain mine into plastic 2-gallon empty laundry detergent bottles and take them to the recycling center a couple times a year. Contaminants in used engine oil, caused by internal combustion, can be hazardous to your health.
Make sure not to under tighten the bolt as this will result in the drain plug leaking, and or falling off, and loosing all the oil in the engine, and causing total and complete engine failure, which will result in destroying the engine. Check the engine oil atleast once a week unless the vehicle has high milage, then it should be checked alteast twice a week.
I'm not sure exactly how it's plumbed, but I'd be worried that there would still be one sump that is full of old, used oil waiting to contaminate your fresh oil. I would assume that the T2 V-8s (2008 and later) will be similar to the '07 as they have the same engine. It is in fact on the TOP side of the engine, kind of like the V10 TDI but way in the back, under the rear engine cover. So screw off the cap, the old filter comes out with it, pull (Pretty hard) to get the old filter off.
Also, why did you do it yourself since your maintenance is free for the first several years?


If on a slope it is recommended to place blocks under the rear wheels for additional safety.
Remove the drain plug (counter clockwise) and let oil drain, preferably for at least 15-20 minutes.
Putting in less oil than recommended is not really necessary when the filter has been changed and the oil left to drain for the proper amount of time. Do not rev engine immediately, let it run for a couple minutes and then rpm's can be raised up a bit to circulate the oil. Too loose of an oil filter will cause oil to leak out of the engine completly destroying the engine. Once the level is full, start the engine, let it run 20 seconds, then shut the engine off, wait 2 minutes, then check the oil level once again.
Also, if you put in the specified amount of oil, and have some in a sump, you'll be overfilled. Putting the new filter (Same part number as the earlier V-8 filter, thank goodness) in is a little tough because with the car up on ramps or stands it's hard to see back there. Now look in that cooler and find something to keep you busy for 5 or 10 minutes while the oil drains out. Next, raise the jack just enough to slightly take the pressure off of the jack stands and securely lock the jack. With a flashlight, and staying clear of engine fan and belts, check the areas around the top of the filter for any leakage. Do not wash skin with gasoline, diesel fuel, thinner, or solvents, health problems can result. The last thing to do is look under the engine, check the drain plug, and oil filter to make sure the new oil is not leaking.
The engine cover snaps off easily, just pull up and a little toward the front to get it loose. Replace the washer on the plug (you DID order a new one I'm sure) (But I don't really see any reason not to reuse the old one), screw it back in, tight but not too tight. There is a little nipple-thing on the filter that has to fit into a socket in the filter housing, so the filter has to be correctly oriented, you can't really do it without being able to look down into the hole. It is normal for small amounts of USED oil to drip onto the floor in the next day or so after the change, especially if the area around filter was not thoroughly cleaned. Note that adding a full 7 quarts (with filter change) will never overfill the engine to such an extent that any oil foaming or harm will result, even if the level is beyond the "safe" reading on the dipstick. Start the car and check for leaks; Replace the bottom cover (Have a flashlight ready because it's now after dark and finding the bolt holes by feel is not easy) and you're good. Anyway, once the filter is in, put the new o-ring on the cap, lube it with a bit of grease, and screw it back on. Take the car down from the ramps or stands and let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes then check the oil level to be sure it's correct.



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