All Hasselblad cameras and film magazines, as well as some other Hasselblad items, bear a two or three letter code in front of, or incorporated into, the serial number.
The key to translate these letters to digits is the word VHPICTURES, in which "V" stands for 1, "H" = 2, etc. For instance, a camera carrying the 'date code' "ER" was produced in 98, or 1998 ("E" = 9, "R" = 8).
Hasselblad 1600 F serial number with two letter year code "CH", which translates to (19)52. This system was adopted just before the middle of the 20th century, and the assumed prefix representing the century then was "19". We just have to remember that it was first used in the late 1940's, and that years later than "49" upto and including "99" should be prefixed by "19". A product type code reappeared in 1990, now in the form of a two digit code preceding the two letter date code. When there are three letters, the year of manufacture is always indicated by the first two.
From 1990 onward, a numerical prefix was added to the code, designating the type of product. This prefix provides no useful information to someone holding the item, and is for use in records only. Detail of mating surface of Hasselblad Winder F, showing serial number with two letter year code "RT", code for (19)86. Items that do not have a serial number plus date code obviously can not be dated using the system described above. Sometimes dates, coded or even uncoded, appear inside products, scribbled in pencil on the inside of housings, etc.
But taking, for instance, a prism finder apart just to look for an indication when the item was produced is perhaps not a very good idea. Some items however can be dated (roughly) using other information, such as details of design, or mechanical differences, combined with information about when these items were available, when details of the items were changed, etc. Such information can be found elsewhere on Hasselblad Historical, or in Richard Nordin's books "Hasselblad Compendium" or "Hasselblad System Compendium".
Such tables, providing the best estimates available, can be found in Richard Nordin's "Hasselblad System Compendium". You can, of course, also type in the serial number of your lens into the tiny utility on the top left hand side of this page. The first, or first two represent the year of manufacture, which can be found by adding "1957" to the code.
The letter is a code for the month of manufacture, "A" standing for January, "B" for February, etc.
The different designs are differentiated by being a different "model" or "series." Confusing the issue even more, some manufacturers "private label" their machines for large department stores.
The "magic word" used by Kodak was "CAMEROSITY", and the early 1600 F and 1000 F Kodak lenses can be dated the same way, using this Kodak keyword. Serial numbers therefor can only be used to date lenses if we have some way to link serial numbers to years.
This code, most often in red ink, was stamped somewhere on the rear end of the lens mount, often on the wall of the rear lens baffle.
The date of manufacture will most likely be represented by the earliest date found, while later dates may represent the times the lens had returned to the factory for a (major) repair. Such as Sears' Kenmore and Montgomery Ward's Signature machines. Check the following list to determine if you have one of these "cross-branded" machines. Tables doing just that are compiled by collecting serial numbers of specific lenses together with information about when these lenses were first bought.


To reveal the code, it may be necessary to set the lens to its close focus limit (doing so will move the rear lens element towards the front of the lens, out of the way). The Bridgeview farm is 80 acres.A  Right down the path from this house is a newer home Jack had built in the 1970's.
Lil Woulfe did me a HUGE favor by gathering family information for me which made it possible to complete the name list below.A Dunganville?
These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE redesigned their dryers. The present-day address of the Woulfe farm at Dunganville is - Bridgeview, Dunganville, Ardagh, Co. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. Townlands vary from fairly large to sometimes containing only one or 2 farms.A Sometimes their boundaries are known only to the locals and the Postman.
A  Ardagh is the Post Office address, arrived at because the town of Ardagh is only about 2 miles away.
They have continued to manufacture these "Herrin" machines as Maytag "Performa" models and high-end Crosley brand machines, but they have gone through a LOT of evolution. If you everA examine a parish map, the farm is in the Parish of Newcastle West.A Up until the 19th century, the area was also known as Glenquin, the old Baronial name.
I also learned from Lill that the property was once leased from the Massey family before my family acquired it. You can find them in the yellow pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both.
I learned more about the farm's history from Paul MacCotter's research.A  He discovered that there were 3 Woulfe farms adjacent to one another in the early 19th century (plotted as 2a, 3a, and 4b) A In land records from about 1820 to 1850, we find that John, James, and Edmond Woulfe lived there. However, you don't want to badger them with TOO many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department.
Edmond was their nephew - his father (name unknown) may have been a brother of John or James.
They should contain the model number somewhere. In any case, and especially if you have absolutely NO information about your dryer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. The 3 WoulfesA came to the Dunganville farms from Athea.A  In the early 1800's, just about every farm in the Athea area was owned by a Woulfe, and there just weren't any left for the next generation.
Given the popularity of the name Bridget at the time, I'm assuming that's most likely what it was.A  From graveyard inscriptions, I find that James married Johanna MacKessey From Knocknaderry. From Graveyard and Newcastle West baptism records, I know that John Woulfe had several sons. An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. So, the first John Woulfe on the Dunganville farm was likely born around 1800.A A  My cousin Jack at the same Dunganville farm, asked other family members, and they confirm this stone is that of our ancestors. Remember the rule in section 1-5 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. 1878 age 76 years (he would have been born in 1802) - his mother Johanna Woulfe March 10 1866 age 46 years. Doocateen is only about 3 or 4 miles south of Dunganville, and is about 3 miles north of Newscastle west.


This Doocateen James born in 1802 would be of the same generation as John and James of Dunganville. When testing 220 volt circuits (usually in electric dryers) make sure you always follow the precautions in rule 1 of section 1-5!Figure B-4: Testing Voltage1-4(b) TESTING FOR CONTINUITY (Figure B-5)Don't let the word "continuity" scare you. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source.
Working from Gravestone information, 2a John was born around 1800, 3a James was born around 1778. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale. But - is his son Edmond James of Doocateen the same 4a Edmond mentioned on the Dunganville farms in 1852? If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. If you do not, the switch is bad.   1-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory.
If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire.
The ammeter simply measures the density of this flux, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the cur rent going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). If you need to re-energize the dryer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. I want to impress upon you something really important. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.However, 220 VOLTS CAN KNOCK YOU OFF YOUR FEET.
And if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again. Replace the part. 3) If you must lay the dryer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a gas valve. Lay an old blanket on the floor to protect the floor and the finish of the dryer. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 5) When opening the dryer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges.
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) When testing for your power supply from a wall outlet, plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire.



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