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Wea€™ll schedule a visit to your facility, conduct a free lighting audit, define youa€™re lighting problems and review all of the LED benefits. D&J Electric is a regional sales representative for Titan LED, an American lighting manufacturerA specializing in energy-efficient, advanced LED lighting solutions. To explore why LEDs have advantages over fluorescent tubes, we must first understand how both light sources work. Fluorescent Lights : Fluorescent tubes, and their smaller cousins compact fluorescent lights (CFLs), work in a strikingly different way to LEDs.
Now that we understand how both light sources work, we can more accurately discuss the advantages LEDs hold over fluorescent tubes.
Long Term Cost : It is true that LEDs are more expensive initially than fluorescent and compact fluorescent lights, but they can provide huge potential savings over the long term. Maintenance : The amount of time spent replacing bulbs, especially in larger buildings, can be counterproductive. Noise : Fluorescent tubes are notorious for being noisy, especially if they have been used for a significant amount of time. Environmental Impact : Fluorescent lights by their very nature must contain a small amount of mercury.
Durable : Because LEDs are not made of glass and are hollow inside, they are far less fragile than both fluorescent and incandescent bulbs. No Heat : While fluorescent tubes emit less heat than incandescent and halogen bulbs, they still produce much more than LEDs.
Fluorescent tubes are a great lighting option for those wishing to pay less initially for their needs. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2PROBLEMS COMMONTO ALL BRANDSWashing machine designs vary widely, but there are some things that all washers have in common. Exterior and interior general illumination, safety and security, general production and service lighting uses are just some of the financial energy savings that local businesses and municipalities can benefit from.
We will show you the energy and installation savings you will achieve while filling your buildings with the most beautiful, brilliant white light youa€™ve ever seen. They have been consistently proven to be economical while producing the illumination required in working and public environments.
It is how they are designed and the way they operate which produces both positives and negatives to each light source.
Fluorescent tubes are made up of a long glass tube with metal fittings on each end where electricity is passed into them. Unlike both fluorescent and incandescent light sources, LEDs do not contain a gas or a filament of any kind.
While incandescent lights last for a paltry 800 to 1500 hours, and fluorescent lights last up to 10,000 hours, LEDs can last up to a staggering 100,000 hours. Due to the longer lifespan of an LED bulb over a fluorescent tube, maintenance and replacement times can be reduced markedly when LEDs are used. They tend to emit clicking and popping sounds intermittently, but most annoyingly, they can produce a low buzzing sound.
While fluorescents are technically energy saving light sources compared to incandescent bulbs, when contrasted with LEDs there really is no contest. This makes them much more durable and less likely to being rendered inoperable due to being dropped or bashed accidentally. LEDs are lukewarm to the touch and therefore carry less risk of causing an accidental fire or burn. LEDs, however, provide long term savings, great performance, variable colors, and do not contain any hazardous materials.
Having a contracted electrician can safeguard your company's productivity, reputation and safety record. This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important. By converting to LED lighting, we can reduce energy use and energy costs, improve light pollution and light quality and improve where light is directed.
All with no ballast to fail, no blinking, no bugs, no noxious mercury, no noise, no waiting for lights to restart. Our award-winning products for both inside and outside your facility offer dramatically improved light and lighting levels--up to 80% reduction in energy plus long-life with ZERO maintenance. Inside the glass tube is a small amount of magnesium and an inert gas (a gas which does not normally react to stimulation such as heat or electricity), usually argon.
This can provide substantial savings as a result of fewer replacements needing to be bought. Since fluorescent tubes are often used in offices and working environments, this can be distracting. If it is ingested or inhaled it can cause serious complications and as such must be disposed of safely. Not only that, many fluorescent lights do not provide optimum illumination levels until they have been running for a few minutes. After reading the above, it is easy to see why so many businesses and home owners are turning to LEDs as their number one choice for lighting. In the event that a breakdown does occur, we are on call to make the necessary electrical repairs as quickly as possible in order to minimize any inconvenience. It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump.
Now is an excellent time for businesses and municipalities to consider converting to LED lighting and reap these benefits. Both fluorescent tubes and LEDs have their advantages and disadvantages, but LEDs seem to be winning the attention of consumers.
LEDs are completely safe and do not contain such poisonous materials, putting home owners and parents at ease while knowing that they are not contributing to pollution. A a€?A a€?In today's high technological environments, undersized wiring can lead to intolerable voltage fluctuations that can harm or impede the equipment or its application.
A A In today's high technological environments, undersized wiring can lead to intolerable voltage fluctuations that can harm or impede the equipment or its application. Let's take a look to see why that is, and why you should consider LED lighting over fluorescent tubes. When electricity is passed into the metal caps at each end, it excites the magnesium inside the tube. When electricity is passed through the semiconductor material, the electrons inside begin whizzing about which releases energy in the form of visible light. Similarly, switches may operate motors, equipment, computers, lighting, processes, and a multitude of other applications. Magnesium atoms then release energy in the form of ultraviolet light, which is invisible to the naked eye.
When a switch is not installed in the exact appropriate manner for its design, electrical codes, and the installation application, the switch itself can affect the life of the equipment attached and even create a hazard. The transmission converts the rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the agitator. When the ultraviolet light hits the phosphorous coating, the phosphorous begins to glow, creating light. Whether your connection needs are simple or complex, we will find the best solution to provide a value added installation for your company's needs. A driveshaft extends from the top of the transmission to the agitator, where it is connected to the agitator, usually by a spline.
Ignitor systems and holding coils on the gas safety valves have varied slightly over the years, but you can find the diagnosis and repair procedures for all gas burners covered by this manual in section 2-3. A temperature control system keeps the air at the optimum temperature for drying and prevents scorching of your clothes. During agitation, some washers use their pump to circulate water, sucking it from the bottom of the tub and pumping it to the top of the tub. The pump is driven by the same electric motor. Also during the agitation cycle, bleach or softener may be automatically added. This is usually done by a solenoid valve that allows some of the recirculated water to flush out the bleach or softener dispenser. Finding the thermostats is discussed in the chapter pertaining to your model. There is also a safety system that prevents the heating system from starting at all unless the blower is turning.
In some models there is no water circulation involved; the solenoid simply opens a valve or door that lets the dispenser contents drop into the wash water. The timer tells this solenoid valve when to open. SPIN AND DRAIN CYCLES After agitation comes a drain cycle, sometimes combined with a spin cycle. During the spin cycle, the same motor that drove the agitator now drives a spin tubewhich is concentric with the agitator shaft.
Over a period of years, enough can build up enough to allow some of the above symptoms to occur. The airflow system is discussed in section 2-5, except for drum seals, which are discussed in the chapter pertaining to your brand of dryer. In most models, the blower is the last component in the airflow system. If you have a separate timer and temperature control, consider yourself lucky; the combined units are considerably more difficult to diagnose and generally more expensive to replace. Some brands have a lid lock that prevents you from opening the lid when the basket is spinning.At the end of the spin cycle, or whenever the lid is lifted, most models have a braking arrangement that stops the tub from spinning.
So most repairs stem from just a few common complaints: 1) NOISY OPERATIONA vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out.
It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years. This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old. See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.   In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. Most modern washers use dual solenoid valves, which have both hot and cold solenoids in one valve body. This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent. To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place. In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen (like pencils and pens) and get stuck in the blower wheel. The thermistor's signal goes to the washer's control board (computer,) which opens or closes hot and cold water valves to control the incoming water temperature.When the water in the tub reaches the desired level, the pressure or float switch closes the circuit to the fill valve.
Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine.2) NOT DRYING WELL(See also NO HEAT below) Usually this is caused by poor airflow.
Feel the dryer vent exhaust (usually outside the house.) If there isn't a strong blast of air coming out, check the lint screen and open up any dryer vent you can get to to check for clogging. Also check any flexible dryer vent for pinching. In some machines, if the drum is not turning, there will be no noise or other external symptoms. A few old washers used a pressure switch mounted on the BOTTOM of the tub; these are known as water weight switches.


To diagnose, start the machine empty, open the door and look inside quickly, or depress the door switch to see if the drum is turning.
The strainers can get clogged up over time and prevent water flow. Shut off the water valves and remove the hoses. To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning.
See section 2-4(d) about motors. 3) NO HEAT, OR LOW HEAT This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers. If you cannot clean the screen sufficiently, you may need to replace it. In some instances, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or valve. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above.   2-3 GAS BURNERSTo access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door.
If it is too hot or too cold, or if no water is coming out at all, test for voltage across each solenoid coil of the water valve as shown in figure G-5. Replace the valve. If you're not getting power to the valve, refer to the wiring diagram for your machine (see section 2-6) and trace the source of the interruption.
Sometimes it's a broken wire, but more commonly, there will be a problem with the water level switch, timer, lid switch, or temperature switch. Replace the defective switch.If your washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor, a defective thermistor might be sending the wrong signal to the control board.
If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on.
If your washer has a mercury-tube type lid switch, raising the top of the cabinet may have the same effect on the lid switch as raising the lid.
You will need to jumper the mercury switch to perform any tests when the cabinet top is raised. OVERFILLAs the tub fills, water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub. Before you insert the tube onto the switch, blow into the tube first, to clear it of any water that might have gotten in it. But some people would just seal it up so it couldn't overflow, instead of clearing the drain, as they should. Depending on how bad the drain is backing up, the washer might never fill completely; the solenoid valve will just stay open and water will just keep siphoning straight out the drain.
Or, if the drain is a little more clogged and the water is flowing more slowly, the washer might fill and start agitating, but stop agitating after a few minutes and fill some more.
Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.   IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT FLAME DOES NOT START (GAS VALVE DOES NOT OPEN)(PILOTLESS SYSTEMS ONLY) Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve.
And since the power to the timer motor is being interrupted, the wash and rinse cycles may seem unusually long. There is a solution, even if you don't want to root out the drain blockage as you should. Your appliance parts dealer has a drain line vacuum break valve, available for just a few bucks.
It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside.
In all washers, it is used to pump water out of the tub at the end of an agitate or soak cycle.
Test as described in the section above, "IGNITOR DOESN'T GLOW". Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat.
Others use a solenoid-activated butterfly valve in the pump body to re-direct the waterflow.
The impeller blades can break off due to junk entering the pump; if this happens, the pump may seize up, or it may just stop pumping.
It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
If the pump is belt-driven (as it is in many washers) the pulley driving the pump may shear off, or the belt may break.
The belt may ride over the locked pulley, or the motor pulley will continue turning under the belt; this will burn the belt and possibly break it. There may even be enough tension on the belt to stop the motor from turning. The symptoms can be confusing.
It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. For example, a common complaint about a Whirlpool belt-drive washer is that it isn't spinning, accompanied by a strong burning smell. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. The washer doesn't enter the spin cycle because the spin is interlocked with the drain cycle. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right? Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. If you can't see anything jamming the pump, feel around the inside of the pump inlets and outlets with a pair of needlenose pliers. Depending on how badly the drain is clogged, there may be a little water or a lot, or it may only overflow every second or third load. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal.
Even if you're not there when it happens and the paper dries out, it will have crinkled up, and you'll know your drain's backing up. If it isn't the drain, run the machine with a full load. Without moving the machine, get right down on the floor and look under the machine with a flashlight. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still 110 volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working. Some washer pumps have a hole that allows water to weep out when the seal starts to go bad.
Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity. If the bleach dispenser gets old and brittle, it can crack or break off, and the flush water can leak out.But since the dispenser may only be flushed at certain times in the cycle, this will appear as an intermittent leak. This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed. In this example, we have set the temperature on "low." Note that in this machine, on this setting, the electricity flows through both the high-temp and low-temp operating thermostats.
If a consistent imbalance in the basket has caused it to wear a hole in the tub (not an uncommon experience to old-style GE washers) then you may be able to fix it with an epoxy patch.
The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good.
One motor is used to do both.Within the transmission there is typically a crank gear and connecting rod arrangement to provide the reciprocating motion to the agitator. Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord (L2).   To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system (remove the wires from the terminals) and test for continuity. However, some designs use a differential gear, slider, eccentric, or other design. The spin motion comes directly from the rotary motion of the motor, through some clutch arrangement.
For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section 2-4(c). The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer. Usually there is some kind of reduction arrangement in the belt or gearing. There must also be some mechanism to change between spin and agitate.
There are two ways that this is most commonly done. Some washer designs use solenoids to engage and disengage clutches and transmissions. However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them. For the agitate cycle, a solenoid (sometimes the same one) disengages the clutch and engages the transmission. For specific information see the chapter about your brand. Many washer designs use a direct-reversing motor. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. When the motor turns one way, a mechanical arrangement such as a helical shaft, centrifugal clutch or torsion spring engages and spins the basket. When the motor reverses, the brake locks the basket and the transmission engages, so the agitator agitates.The basket braking arrangement is often a part of the clutch arrangement. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. If you see any of the problems shown in figure G-8, replace it. Broken or worn out belts are a common problem.
See the chapter on your brand for specific details about changing the belt(s) on your model. If the shaft is rotating but the agitator is not, replace the agitator or spline insert.2-5(c) TRANSMISSIONSTransmissions in general are pretty bullet-proof, and rarely experience problems beyond a little oil loss. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc. Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose. If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable (being an electrical part.) If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician.
If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches.
Try turning the motor by hand, or pull the belt so everything rotates. Be careful you don't pinch your fingers between the belt and pulley! Check to see that every pulley that the belt rides is rotating. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Disengage the drive system (remove the belt, etc.) Try to turn the transmission drive pulley with your hand. Also check the movement of the pump, and any tensioner or idler pulley that may be present. Do not try to rebuild your own transmission. Typically, rebuilding requires special tools that drive the cost above that of buying a rebuilt transmission. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose.
Due to some parts business politics, I can't mention brand names in this book, but your parts dealer will probably be happy to privately let you know which ones they are.2-6 TESTING ELECTRICAL COMPONENTSSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches.


Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch. The wiring and switches that are shown as thick lines are inside of the timer. The small circles all over the diagram are terminals. Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle. Any wiring enclosed by a shaded or dotted box is internal to a switch assembly and must be tested as described in sections 2-6(c) and 2-6(d). Switches may be numbered on the diagram, but that number will not be found on the switch.
Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually several times.
If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. Following the gray-shaded circuit in figure G-9(a), the electricity flows through the black wire (L1) to the push-pull switch.
There may be several different thermostats side by side; for example 135 degrees for low temperature, 165 for high temperature, etc.
The power then goes through the violet wire to the water level switch (which must have a LOW water level,) then through the pink wire back into the timer.
Naturally, it is a bit more expensive than regular thermostats, and difficult to test. You can test a thermostat as described in section 1-4(b) by testing for continuity across its terminals.
It then comes out of the timer in a red wire with a white stripe (R-W) that leads to the lid switch (which must be closed.) From the lid switch, it goes through a red wire to the spin solenoid.
Finally it leaves the spin solenoid in a white wire, which leads back to the main power cord (L2). If you're not sure whether a certain switch or component is a part of the circuit you're diagnosing, assume that it is and test it.
A cold cool-down stat should show no continuity. If a thermostat fails into a closed position, there is a danger that the heating system will continue operating until something catches fire. If you have a motor problem that you think you've traced to the timer, don't bother trying to figure out which switch goes to which part of the motor. Replace it. THERMISTORSA thermistor is a "variable resistor" whose resistance varies with temperature. Looking at the diagram, the push-pull switch controls a lot of other things besides the spin solenoid.
Rather than just turning the heating circuit on and off as thermostats do, dryers with solid-state (computer logic board) controls can use a thermistor's input to control the drum temperature more closely.
This can result in lower energy usage. Thermistors are tested by measuring resistance across them with a VOM. You may need to use jumpers to extend the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. This is done in one of two ways. When the air in the drum is moist, the water in it absorbs heat to evaporate.
This keeps the air temperature lower, and it takes longer to heat up.   The thermostat on the drum exhaust will keep the heating system on longer.
In these systems, that same thermostat controls the timer motor; while the heating system is on, the timer motor is not running, and vice-versa.
So when the clothes get drier, the exhaust air temperature gets higher more quickly, the heating system doesn't stay on for as long and the timer motor runs more, ending the cycle sooner. The thermostats in these machines have three leads. So you've just replaced the pump, and you're standing there with the lid open, admiring how well it's pumping out, when you notice it still isn't spinning. If the symptoms lead you to suspect that yours is defective, just replace it. Besides heating more slowly, moist air also conducts electricity better than dry air.
So another way the engineers design a humidity sensor is to put two electrical contacts inside the dryer drum. For example, if your basket won't spin at all, you will check all the obvious stuff (lid switch, spin clutch solenoid, transmission, etc.) But will you think to check the imbalance switch?
The electrical currents conducted by the air are so low that an electronic circuit is needed to sense when the air is moist, but essentially the same thing happens in this system as in the other. When the air is dry, the timer motor runs longer and times out sooner. The sensors in these machines tend to get coated with gummy stuff, especially if you use a lot of fabric softener in the wash or starch in ironing. In some designs, it also prevents the tub from filling or the agitator from agitating while the lid is open.
To reset this interlock, the lid must be opened and closed or the timer turned off and back on. The circuit board could have gone bad, too; there is no good way to test it with out a lot of expensive equipment. THEY ARE THERE FOR A REASON.2-6(a) SWITCHES AND SOLENOIDSTesting switches and solenoids is pretty straightforward. The problem is that the heater operates on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts.
There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage (see figure G-6(a) and if this resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if the thermostat was bad: the timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. If you have one of these dryers, make sure you test the resistor for continuity, in addition to the thermostat. OTHER TEMPERATURE CONTROLS Selecting which thermostat is used may be done inside the timer, or there may be a separate multi-switch that accomplishes this.
If it shows no resistance, it's shorted.2-6(b) WATER LEVEL SWITCHESWater level diaphragm switches are usually shown on a wiring diagram by the symbol in figure G-10. The numbering or lettering of the terminals may differ, but basically all switches are tested the same way. To test the switch, first fill the tub to the highest water level. So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires.
To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things.
In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it.
See the chapter about your brand for details about the labelling of the switch leads.2-6(c) TIMERSThe timer is the brain of the washer. In addition to telling the motor when and which way to run, it tells any clutch solenoids when to engage, the fill valve when to open, dispenser solenoids when to open, etc.Most washers still have mechanical, that is, motor-operated timers. Some newer machines have digital timers and control (computer) boards. Diagnosing digital machines is often a matter of reading the digital fault code or performing a self test. If you have an ammeter, the stalled motor will be drawing 10 to 20 amps or more. STARTING SWITCH Dryers have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor.
Testing procedures and fault codes for individual models can usually be found on a paper located inside the console. A mechanical timer is nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. There are many sets of contacts inside the switch, and each design is different, even among dryers of the same brand. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your washer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable.
If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund. If you buy one, and it turns out not to be the problem, you've just wasted the money.In a wiring diagram, a mechanical timer may appear in two different ways (Figure G-11). When buying a new motor, make sure that the pulley can be changed over, or else get a new pulley with the new motor.
It may save you a second trip to the parts dealer.   2-4(e) IGNITORSYou can test the ignitor by testing for resistance across the element. Timer wires are color-coded or number-coded.Let's say you've got a spin solenoid problem that you think you've traced to your timer.
Like ignitors, they should show quite a bit of resistance, and defective heaters will usually show no continuity at all.2-4(g) TERMINAL BLOCKIn most electric dryer installations, there is a 220 volt wall plug. If the dryer does not seem to be getting power, but you do have power at the wall outlet, you also need to check the terminal block for problems as shown below. Replace it if there is any sign of problems. Make sure all wiring is clear and make sure you don't touch any bare wires or terminals, plug the dryer back in briefly, and check the terminal block for power across all three legs as described in sections 1-4(a) and 2-4.
Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse.2-5 AIRFLOWAirflow is EXTREMELY important in EVERY dryer. Whirlpool Direct Drive models (chapter 4) are this way.You must simply test the timer one click at a time. It can come on suddenly (like if something happens to the dryer vent outside the house) or it can show up as a progressive problem, as lint slowly builds up in the dryer exhaust system.First, check the lint screen.
Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually many times.
The Whirlpool Direct-Drive models (Chapter 4) are prone to this confusing problem, though it's not too terribly common.
The symptoms are that when you open the lid at the end of the cycle, the tub hasn't drained. I think it's a tribute to Whirlpool engineering that the thing was still running at all with that much lint in it. If the lint screen is clean, check the exhaust system between the dryer and the house outlet. A really easy way is to disconnect the exhaust system and run the dryer for a few minutes with it venting directly into the house. The motor doesn't get a chance to start in the opposite direction, so it continues to run in the same direction (agitate) until something interrupts the circuit and stops the motor.
If the dryer functions normally, the exhaust system is clogged. If none of the above works, the internal ducting or blower fan is clogged or malfunctioning. For example, with the temperature switch shown in figure G-13 set on "Warm wash, Cold rinse" all the switches marked with a "WC" will be closed.
There is no WC marking next to the middle switch, so the switch should be open.You should see no continuity with your VOM.
Test the switch similarly for all settings.2-6(e) DRIVE MOTORS, START SWITCH, AND CAPACITORSA motor that is trying to start, but can't for whatever reason, is using one heckuva lot of electricity. For example, disconnect the drive belt, pump drive system, etc. Try to start the motor again. You can discharge it by shorting the two terminals on your capacitor with your screwdriver. Be careful not to touch the metal part of your screwdriver with your hands while you do this. After discharging the capacitor, disconnect its leads and test it.
Initially, the meter should bounce towards the right of the scale (good continuity), then slowly move back to the left side a bit as the capacitor builds resistance.Reverse the two probes on the terminals. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. If you do not get these readings, replace the capacitor. STARTING SWITCH Only GE-built machines have an external, replaceable current-relay starting switch.
See the GE chapter for testing. Most other machines have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor.




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  3. Tenha_Qaqash_Kayifda writes:
    Better, but you have to be patient, and determined is, what.
  4. crazy writes:
    Can be valuable advised battery of tests tinnitus relief, there is no recognized.