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India has what it takes to be a competitive jewellery manufacturing centre: a skilled work force, comparatively low wages and a government that supports this industry. To date, India is ranked the fourth largest silver fabrication country in the world behind Thailand, China and Italy, the survey revealed, climbing from sixth place. GFMS estimated that stock building of finished products by the trade accounted for at least 25 percent of total jewellery fabrication last year, reaching a total of 4 Moz. Established in 1988, ACPL Exports Pvt Ltd is among the largest manufacturers in India, producing both machine-made and handmade silver jewellery. Increasingly catering to the international market, Indian jewellery manufacturers like Karma Enterprise are adopting more modern and contemporary jewellery designs.
Owner of Karma Enterprises, Vivek Shah, shared that the company is developing more fashionable, European style jewellery featuring diamonds and coloured gemstones, as well as rhodium-, rose gold- and yellow gold-platings.
The company’s pieces are exported largely to Europe, specifically to the UK, Spain, France, Sweden, Switzerland and Greece.
Silvex & Co (India) Pvt Ltd, another major jewellery manufacturer and exporter in India, is likewise delving into more contemporary jewellery. The company has an entire line of ethnic yet fashionable jewellery, most of which adorned with various kinds of semiprecious gemstones. Silvex’s jewellery pieces are manufactured in its modernised production facilities in Jaipur, where it employs some 800 skilled artisans. To serve the international clientele and in catering to various tastes, Derewala offers both ethnic and modern designs using non-traditional materials.
Exporting 100 percent of its silver jewellery, the US and Europe are Derewala’s major markets.
To stay ahead of the competition, Amrapali, a Jaipur-based jewellery manufacturer, worked towards improving the quality of its pieces and widening the variety of its designs. Amrapali offers traditional and contemporary jewellery, targeting both the mature and young clientele.
Taraash, its consumer brand that blends traditional Indian styles with international fashion trends, was launched some four years ago. For many years Indian Classic Jewellery designs have always held a significant place among jewelry lovers and the Jewellery designing industry.
Even in the international market, the demand for the Indian Classic Jewellery designs is one of the highest. There have been cases, when one fine piece of studded and heavily designed necklace has taken many months for completion.
Subscribe to the weekly newsletter for updates about Bollywood, Hollywood and Hot Designers. JNA: China has been identified as the most important market in the world for luxury goods companies, including gemstone and jewellery manufacturers and brands. Rita Maltez: When we started to look at the Chinese diamond jewellery market some years ago, we quickly saw that the tremendous growth will eventually push demand beyond the traditional solitaire diamond and the bridal market. We took the view that there was an opportunity to develop a new category of diamond jewellery.
There are a number of drivers to our strategy to capture the growth opportunities in China.
Secondly, it is estimated that within just over a decade, 70 million Chinese households will enter the middle class – this means a huge swathe of the population will be moving from having enough income to cover the necessities of life, to having disposable income to spend on discretionary items.
Finally, we believe that Chinese consumers, like their counterparts in the US and Europe, will increasingly want something unique to differentiate themselves, and will start to buy what they want, not what society dictates. JNA: How significant is the China market to Rio Tinto’s diamond business in dollar terms?
China has entered a fast growth phase which will change the face of the global diamond jewellery market, to the point that in the next five to 10 years, China will be the second-largest diamond consuming market after the US, accounting for close to one-third of world diamond jewellery demand. In 2010, we established our Hong Kong office to help tap into China’s fast-growing diamond jewellery market and we have been growing our investment here ever since.
Maltez: Our objective is to capitalise on the tremendous growth by being here on the ground in China and investing in market development initiatives to channel a larger proportion of our diamond productions into China. Secondly, our focus is on demonstrating the fashion jewellery opportunity to retailers, wholesalers, designers and jewellery manufacturers and to help them to offer consumers what they are asking for.
JNA: What has compelled Rio Tinto to enter into a strategic partnership with Chow Tai Fook?

Maltez: One of the cornerstones of our strategy to date has been a strategic partnership with Chow Tai Fook, focused on developing the fashion jewellery market for Greater China. The focus of our market development work to date with Chow Tai Fook has been on the creation of a new fashion jewellery collection to test the market’s appetite. As many of you know, Adorn London is part of Adorn Insight – an agency that Juliet and I co-founded two years ago in order to provide the jewellery industry with long-range trend forecasts, market intelligence and data analysis. Annabelle Lucilla: KickStart was an invaluable experience for me, and came about by my brand being chosen as one of the ten designers to be featured exclusively at the show. Adorn London: Agate is such a jewellery classic that using it innovatively can be a challenge. Annabelle Lucilla: I love to reinvent classical jewellery techniques such as stone setting, and I love using large, rough-cut stones, so I developed a method of encapsulating them in bold, eye-catching cradles. Annabelle Lucilla: The peacock design derived from my original illustration, which was very intricate and detailed. Today, the country is considered as one of the world’s key jewellery manufacturing centres and is being recognised for its efforts to adapt to the demands of the international market while also preserving the ethnicity of its designs. Local companies interviewed by Silver Styles confirmed that they have been ramping up silver jewellery production this year as business started showing signs of recovery. All these pieces are produced at its manufacturing facilities located in Nunhai, Agra, which employ some 3,000 workers. Mr Shah believes that such European-style jewellery is also appealing in Scandinavia and South Africa – markets the company intends to further explore.
Most of its silver jewellery are combined with other metals and matched with wood, glass, and colourful enamel, and adorned with coloured gemstones.
Traders say that in this scene, it is the young people who are most attracted to silver jewellery. A country with rich cultural heritage is bound to produce some classic designs in jewellery as well. Just like clothes, where applique work, embroidery, zardozi, phulkari, katha,etc are the various styles of designs available on fabric, jewellery also sees a lot many styles in designing. She keeps herself updated with latest Fashion Trends and Styles and loves to share them with the world. Since then, it has been steadily increasing its investment in China and has been at the forefront of developing the mainland’s fashion jewellery market.
What is the strategy that Rio Tinto has pursued to capture the growth opportunities in China? Firstly, the current demand for diamonds in China is driven by the bridal market, characterised by high-quality white diamonds. Urbanisation, westernisation, a rapidly expanding middle class and an appetite for affordable luxury are all contributing to this growth potential.
We have taken the view that we must be in the market to know the market and as a result, have devoted considerable time and resources into establishing our presence. Firstly, an important aspect of the way we work is to establish close partnerships with our customers and other key industry participants. For retailers, the opportunity is not only to tap into a new source of diamonds to fuel their growth plans, but also the opportunity to expand their product offering and generate incremental sales – by selling more to existing customers and attracting new customers. Chow Tai Fook is uniquely positioned to provide the scale and reach into mainland China required to introduce a new jewellery concept – their unparalleled brand recognition and large and rapidly expanding retail network, make them the ideal partner for Rio Tinto Diamonds in China. The Australian Colours Collection comprises a range of beautifully crafted lightweight designs, in white, yellow and rose gold, containing small polished diamonds typical of our Argyle Diamond Mine. The result is debut collection ‘Oriental Embodiments’ which comprises designs ranging from elaborate tasseled statement pieces through to lovely items suitable for every day wear. I officially launched my debut collection to the trade jewellery market and it opened up unexpected avenues for my jewellery to be marketed.
This lets the light shine completely through the stone, as it is light that really highlights the fantastic colours of naturally coloured stones. The peacock is the national emblem of India, from which lots of my inspiration for the collection ‘Oriental Embodiments’ came from.
We are convinced that this is a good year for business,” he explained, adding that this growth can be attributed to enhanced product offerings and shorter delivery time. Silvex deals mostly with OEM, which accounts for 40 percent of its business, while ODM and OBM each take up 30 percent.

Most of Amrapali’s pieces are exported to Hong Kong, the US, the UK, Europe, Mexico and Brazil, among others. It has seen variations among the various legendary rulers who have ruled the land over the ages.
Fashion designers of global repute have also started their own jewelry designs along with their line of clothing and fashion accessories.
The jewelry pieces may include, bangles, bajuband (a bracelet worn on the arm), necklaces, jhoomar (worn on the head), kangans (traditional broad bangles), churis (thin bangles), nose pins, jumkas (umbrella shaped earrings), kamar bandh (belt on the waist), etc.
Rita Maltez, manager of Rio Tinto Diamonds’ Greater China Representative Office, explains why demand for affordable diamond jewellery is increasing, particularly in high-growth markets like China. Going forward, the global supply of this type of diamond will not be able to keep pace with the growing demand as fewer new deposits are being discovered and the large older diamond deposits reach maturity. This is great news for diamond jewellery, and in particular for affordable diamond jewellery, because although incomes are growing, they are coming off a relatively low base, so there will be increased demand for affordable items. And of course to increase profitability – with gold and solitaire diamond products there is only so much value the retailer can add, beyond branding. We are delighted with the tremendous results of this collection, which demonstrate consumers are hungry for this type of product.
Being part of a highly anticipated collective really helped raise my profile as well as winning the IJL Editor’s Choice Award was fantastic and also highlighted my designs further. I feel it plays up the natural features of the stone rather than trying to mould the stone into something it’s not. The weddings are also considered to be a forum to showcase new designs of clothes and jewellery.
Thus it can be summarized that the uniqueness of Indian jewelry, lies in the fact that it has got so much variety with great grandeur. As a result, retailers will need to expand the range of diamonds they use if they are to grow.
We are particularly keen to encourage design innovation in the industry and the JNA Awards are an ideal platform for this.
However, with diamond fashion jewellery and the use of small diamonds typical of the Argyle Diamond Mine, there is a much greater opportunity to add value through creativity in design while remaining affordable to consumers to ensure high sell-through.
We worked closely with Chow Tai Fook to facilitate the sourcing of Argyle polished diamonds and to share our experience in concept and market development for the Argyle product.
I specialise in etching which is a beautifully organic technique of translating a hand drawn illustration on to a metal surface.
Same is the case of rulers from other parts of the world who came to India from time to time.
Even today, the buying and selling of gold jewellery is the maximum in the world especially during the wedding season in India.  The practice of inheriting the jewellery from ancestors is also very popular among Indians. A key success factor was the extensive training Chow Tai Fook undertook of its frontline staff, essentially mobilising them to become interactive advertisements in-store. Classics Indian Jewellery has its design origination mostly through its dynastical rulers, kings and other decedents. Marriages also see certain classic jewellery created primarily for the special occasion and there are ceremonies revolving them around too. This is extremely important as in an emerging market such as China, retailers have high prescriptive power, and consumers rely on them to tell them what is available. Like jewellery designs from the Mughal era would be different from that of the British era.
We believe strongly in this approach and have supported Chow Tai Fook’s training efforts in this regard. All these factors propel an international jewelry buyer to look for Indian Classic Jewellery designs.

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