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Author: admin, 07.03.2014. Category: Tinnitus Causes And Cures

If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!5-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe old-style GE design uses a single-speed reversing motor, which is belted to the transmission. This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important.
When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle (Figure GE-1.)A simple centrifugal clutch prevents the motor from taking heavy shock loads when starting.
It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump. There is less chance of chipping or scratching the finish.2) Inside the lid, on the top right side, is the recirculation nozzle. Ignitor systems and holding coils on the gas safety valves have varied slightly over the years, but you can find the diagnosis and repair procedures for all gas burners covered by this manual in section 2-3. A temperature control system keeps the air at the optimum temperature for drying and prevents scorching of your clothes.
Finding the thermostats is discussed in the chapter pertaining to your model. There is also a safety system that prevents the heating system from starting at all unless the blower is turning.
There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. You may not see any water directly, but you will see its tracks leading down the pump body. See section 5-4 on pumps. 2) These washers are quite different from others in that the tub is attached to the cabinet, rather than the transmission. Over a period of years, enough can build up enough to allow some of the above symptoms to occur.
The airflow system is discussed in section 2-5, except for drum seals, which are discussed in the chapter pertaining to your brand of dryer. In most models, the blower is the last component in the airflow system. It can develop leaks, or even shake loose, causing a MASSIVE leak (during the fill cycle, the water dumps straight onto the floor instead of filling the tub). If you have a separate timer and temperature control, consider yourself lucky; the combined units are considerably more difficult to diagnose and generally more expensive to replace. Usually such holes will appear around the top of the tub.If you have holes worn in the tub, you can sometimes patch them with an epoxy patch kit, available at your appliance parts dealer. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer. So most repairs stem from just a few common complaints: 1) NOISY OPERATIONA vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out. It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years. This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old. As of this writing, it is not yet widely available, but ask your dealer or call 800-936-5282. 4) The tub fittings may leak. See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.   In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. If you detect a leak from the tub drain or other tub fitting, remove the basket as described in section 5-6. 5) You may get a calcium or detergent buildup around the fill or recirculation nozzle. This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent.
To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place. In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen (like pencils and pens) and get stuck in the blower wheel.
Replace it as described in section 5-4. If the machine is not pumping out water because the coupling has come off the pump, check the pump for jamming. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine.2) NOT DRYING WELL(See also NO HEAT below) Usually this is caused by poor airflow. Feel the dryer vent exhaust (usually outside the house.) If there isn't a strong blast of air coming out, check the lint screen and open up any dryer vent you can get to to check for clogging.
Therefore, a locked transmission will not stop the motor from turning, but a locked pump will. 1) If NOTHING on the machine works, and it's not even making any noise, check the power supply.
Also check any flexible dryer vent for pinching. In some machines, if the drum is not turning, there will be no noise or other external symptoms. In others, only the spin cycle is interlocked, and the machine will still fill and agitate with the lid raised. To diagnose, start the machine empty, open the door and look inside quickly, or depress the door switch to see if the drum is turning. Check as described in section 2-5(a) and tighten or replace as described in section 5-10.3) Often a sock or something has jammed in the pump. To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning. You will also hear the motor trying to start, then tripping off by the motor overload switch, because it is being stalled by the pump. An additional confirmation of this diagnosis is that if you look at the pump coupling while the motor is trying to start, it will be twisted tightly. See section 2-4(d) about motors. 3) NO HEAT, OR LOW HEAT This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers.
See section 5-4. 4) If the transmission pulley is turning, but either agitate or spin or both are not working, the transmission is bad. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer. Replace as described in section 5-13. If the pump is turning, but the transmission drive pulley is not turning, stop the washer and disconnect power.
If the transmission pulley will not turn in one or both directions, the transmission needs to be replaced. See section 5-13.If the transmission pulley turns fairly easily by hand, but the clutch drum is turning slowly or not at all under motor power, the clutch may be bad.
Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above.   2-3 GAS BURNERSTo access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door. Usually you will hear the motor buzzing as it tries to start, then dropping out on the overload.
Check as described in section 5-12. 6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines. Section 5-5. 7) If you have a two-speed machine and the slow (gentle) speed is not working, the clutch solenoid may not be working.
If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on. See section 5-11. If the machine makes a squeaking noise, especially during the spin cycle, the snubbers are probably worn out.


This is especially true if the machine has difficulty balancing during spin, even after you redistribute the clothes. Replace the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14.5-4 PUMP AND PUMP COUPLINGA vast majority of GE-built washers use the pump shown in figure GE-4. Disconnect the pump coupling at the TOP end, then the remove the three pump mounting screws. Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.   IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT FLAME DOES NOT START (GAS VALVE DOES NOT OPEN)(PILOTLESS SYSTEMS ONLY) Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve.
Then cut out the little piece of plastic in the center of the hub with a knife; this will expose the top of the agitator shaft. It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside. Test as described in the section above, "IGNITOR DOESN'T GLOW". Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat.
There are locking tabs that you must twist to remove the larger agitator from the smaller one. Once the screw is removed, the "handwash" agitator should lift out easily.
If you need to remove it, it is simply clamped to the transmission top and to a lip on the tub by two big round clamps. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place.
If the timer dial prevents you from removing the timer, pull off the spring clip from behind the timer knob as shown in figure GE-10. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
The other design is known as a "clamshell" timer because of the curved shape of its plastic housing.
If your timer is defective, take it to your parts dealer and ask for a rebuilt.5-8 LID SWITCHThe lid switch is located beneath the cabinet top, towards the right rear of the washer. It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. Test with an ohmmeter and replace if defective.5-9 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located beneath the console. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. GE washers used several different wiring schemes, so refer to section 2-6(b) and compare with figure GE-11 to determine which terminals to test. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right? Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram.
If it has no continuity, replace by removing the screw on the underside of the coil. I do not recommend the novice trying to rebuild a two-speed clutch. To service the single-speed clutch, first remove power from the washer and remove the back panel.
To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit.
You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them. Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still 110 volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working.
Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity.
As you look at the back of the machine, you will find the relay towards the upper left side of the machine.
This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed. In this example, we have set the temperature on "low." Note that in this machine, on this setting, the electricity flows through both the high-temp and low-temp operating thermostats.
You should now see good continuity. If you do not get the above readings, replace the relay.
The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good. Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord (L2).   To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system (remove the wires from the terminals) and test for continuity. For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section 2-4(c). The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer. Slide the transmission towards the right rear of the washer, and reach under the transmission to make sure the drive belt has disengaged from it.
However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them. Rebuilt GE transmissions are a standard item at most parts stores, and they are not terribly expensive. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. Locate the right rear bolt loosely in its hole, then the left front bolt, then the other four. Install the boot, basket, and agitator. As a final step, remove the back from the washer and make sure the belt is seated properly.5-14 SNUBBER BLOCKSThere are eight friction pads, commonly known as snubber blocks, which help to prevent vibration during the spin cycle. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc. Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose. If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable (being an electrical part.) If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician.
If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose.


If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches.
There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch. Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle. Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually several times. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer.
If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. There may be several different thermostats side by side; for example 135 degrees for low temperature, 165 for high temperature, etc.
Naturally, it is a bit more expensive than regular thermostats, and difficult to test. You can test a thermostat as described in section 1-4(b) by testing for continuity across its terminals. A cold cool-down stat should show no continuity. If a thermostat fails into a closed position, there is a danger that the heating system will continue operating until something catches fire.
Replace it. THERMISTORSA thermistor is a "variable resistor" whose resistance varies with temperature.
Rather than just turning the heating circuit on and off as thermostats do, dryers with solid-state (computer logic board) controls can use a thermistor's input to control the drum temperature more closely. This can result in lower energy usage. Thermistors are tested by measuring resistance across them with a VOM. This is done in one of two ways. When the air in the drum is moist, the water in it absorbs heat to evaporate. This keeps the air temperature lower, and it takes longer to heat up.   The thermostat on the drum exhaust will keep the heating system on longer. In these systems, that same thermostat controls the timer motor; while the heating system is on, the timer motor is not running, and vice-versa. So when the clothes get drier, the exhaust air temperature gets higher more quickly, the heating system doesn't stay on for as long and the timer motor runs more, ending the cycle sooner. The thermostats in these machines have three leads. If the symptoms lead you to suspect that yours is defective, just replace it. Besides heating more slowly, moist air also conducts electricity better than dry air.
So another way the engineers design a humidity sensor is to put two electrical contacts inside the dryer drum. The electrical currents conducted by the air are so low that an electronic circuit is needed to sense when the air is moist, but essentially the same thing happens in this system as in the other. When the air is dry, the timer motor runs longer and times out sooner. The sensors in these machines tend to get coated with gummy stuff, especially if you use a lot of fabric softener in the wash or starch in ironing. The circuit board could have gone bad, too; there is no good way to test it with out a lot of expensive equipment. The problem is that the heater operates on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage (see figure G-6(a) and if this resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if the thermostat was bad: the timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. If you have one of these dryers, make sure you test the resistor for continuity, in addition to the thermostat. OTHER TEMPERATURE CONTROLS Selecting which thermostat is used may be done inside the timer, or there may be a separate multi-switch that accomplishes this. So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires.
To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things. In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it. If you have an ammeter, the stalled motor will be drawing 10 to 20 amps or more. STARTING SWITCH Dryers have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor. There are many sets of contacts inside the switch, and each design is different, even among dryers of the same brand. Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable.
If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. When buying a new motor, make sure that the pulley can be changed over, or else get a new pulley with the new motor. It may save you a second trip to the parts dealer.   2-4(e) IGNITORSYou can test the ignitor by testing for resistance across the element.
Like ignitors, they should show quite a bit of resistance, and defective heaters will usually show no continuity at all.2-4(g) TERMINAL BLOCKIn most electric dryer installations, there is a 220 volt wall plug. If the dryer does not seem to be getting power, but you do have power at the wall outlet, you also need to check the terminal block for problems as shown below. Replace it if there is any sign of problems. Make sure all wiring is clear and make sure you don't touch any bare wires or terminals, plug the dryer back in briefly, and check the terminal block for power across all three legs as described in sections 1-4(a) and 2-4.
Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse.2-5 AIRFLOWAirflow is EXTREMELY important in EVERY dryer. It can come on suddenly (like if something happens to the dryer vent outside the house) or it can show up as a progressive problem, as lint slowly builds up in the dryer exhaust system.First, check the lint screen. I think it's a tribute to Whirlpool engineering that the thing was still running at all with that much lint in it. If the lint screen is clean, check the exhaust system between the dryer and the house outlet. A really easy way is to disconnect the exhaust system and run the dryer for a few minutes with it venting directly into the house.
If the dryer functions normally, the exhaust system is clogged. If none of the above works, the internal ducting or blower fan is clogged or malfunctioning. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan.



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