Locate engine number,license plate covers photo radar,horoscopes compatibility capricorn 2014,positive thinking and meditation books - Review

22.04.2014

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The following DIY outlines the procedure for replacing timing chain parts on a MKIV 12v VR6 engine. Each timing chain has a guide rail (curved on the upper chain, straight on the lower chain) and tensioner rail to keep them tight.
If you have an AAA VR6 and don't know where to look for the engine production number, then please read this THREAD. The lower chain parts are the same on all 12v VR6s - AFAIK, no changes to them have been made during the production of this engine.
The procedure below was based on a '99.5 MKIV Jetta GLS 12v VR6, which has the newer-style upper timing chain parts. Please do the procedure at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them.
Special thanks go to James (James 93SLC - luckily he had done this procedure before on his Corrado), Shashi (DJ-SBK) and Eric (BCDS2003T), for their help with the procedure. CAUTION: Once the valve cover is off, be careful not to drop any tools or small parts into the engine. NOTE: When doing gross rotations of the crankshaft, always turn the crankshaft the same direction that it rotates when the engine is running (clockwise in the picture below).
NOTE: Since the MKIV VR6 has captured bolts that secure the valve cover, no holes need to be drilled in the plate(s) for them to slide into place. NOTE: Leave the VW or other improvised camshaft locking tool in place in the camshaft grooves until instructed to remove it. NOTE: If you are only replacing the upper guide rail, perform step 29 and the appropriate portion of step 35 to install the new guide. TIP: If your lower tensioner is fully extended (as shown in the picture below), it needs to be fully compressed, or reset, before installation. The following information is critical for timing the engine correctly when the upper chain has been removed and the lower timing chain, timing chain cover and tranny have not been touched.
If possible, before removing the upper timing chain so you can remove the head, set the crank to Cyl.
If you do not do this, there is a strong possibility that when the upper timing chain is reinstalled, it will be one half of a tooth off relative to the lower timing chain. The reason that the above procedure is necessary is due to the fact that the 4 timing sprockets (crank, inner intermediate, outer intermediate and camshaft (2)) do not have the same number of teeth. Notice that the camshafts do not rotate by an integer number of teeth when the crankshaft is rotated 360°. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. ANY form of cheating will result in immediate disqualification and removal from the contest.
If you wish to enter two or more times in a row, you will need all new photos of your Mazda for each consecutive month entered. If you become a MOTM winner, you may not enter the same Mazda again until at least 12 Months after the month you had won.
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However, while timing chains should realistically outlast the rest of the car, the design of the guides and tensioners used to keep the chains tight on a 12v VR6 is inadequate IMO. The upper chain connects the camshaft sprockets to an intermediate shaft sprocket (outer sprocket) and the lower chain connects a second intermediate shaft sprocket (inner sprocket) to the crankshaft sprocket.
The lower tensioner rail is a one-piece, spring-driven unit, while the upper tensioner is a two-piece design consisting of a tensioner rail and a separate tensioner bolt.
The early version used a double-row chain, a two-piece tensioner rail (phenolic plate(?) riveted to a metal backing) and a tensioner bolt that relies solely on oil pressure to apply force to the tensioner rail (the bolt has a bleed hole in the end to help regulate the amount of force applied). When I replaced my timing chain parts at nearly 150k miles, the upper tensioner rail had grooves in it from the chain that were only a fraction of a mm deep. While the older and newer upper parts are slightly different in both form and function, the procedure for replacing them is the essentially the same on all 12v VR6s. You can replace this part by only removing the upper intake manifold (and other associated parts) and then following steps 1 through 20 below. I am not responsible for any mistakes in the below procedure or those that you make while performing it.
However, on earlier VR6s, holes will need to be drilled in the plates so that the plates will fit over the posts that the valve cover is secured to (the VW locking tool already has holes drilled in the necessary places).
This will keep the camshafts from rotating when the upper chain is removed, maintaining the correct valve timing.
Doing so may cause the upper timing chain to jump a tooth or more and would throw off the engine timing. Many of the bolts are diameter and length specific to a location and will not fit in other locations.
To do this, use a small screwdriver or similar tool to slide the ratcheting mechanism in the hole in the tensioner body (red arrow in picture below) toward the pivot point between the body and tensioner rail and then push in on the rail (yellow arrows in picture below). To bleed the older style tensioner, insert a thing wire into the bleed hole in the end of the plunger to activate the check valve inside and then press down on the plunger to compress it fully.
On a MKIV, reattach the fuel lines and rear knock sensor wire to the top of the valve cover. There has been some confusion recently during the reinstallation of heads and upper timing chains, and I hope this clears it up for everyone. As a result, a full rotation of the crank sprocket does not produce one full rotation in the other sprockets. When placing your water injection nozzle make sure you do not place the nozzle upstream of a MAF or mass air flow sensor.
The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. Compilation style shots (multiple images within a single image or picture size frame) are NOT ALLOWED!!! It is very common for guides and tensioners to fail (especially in older VR6 motors) as mileage approaches or passes 100k miles. Go to this thread to hear a sound clip of the timing chain noise that was present in my car, and eventually led to the writing of this DIY - Timing Chain Noise Thread. The camshaft sprockets have 27 teeth, the crankshaft sprocket has 24 teeth and the inner and outer intermediate shaft sprockets have 32 and 18 teeth, respectively. IMO, the rail would have easily last to 500k to 1M (million) miles based on how slowly it was wearing.
Therefore, the procedure below should be generally valid for any vehicle with a 12v VR6 engine. Also, if you do not use the VW camshaft locking tool, make sure to secure whatever you use so that it can not fall into the engine. If you are replacing all of the timing chain parts, then this is no big deal since you'll be resetting the timing anyway.
Some people like to extend the tensioner slightly so that there is some tension on the upper chain when the engine is started the first time.
To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles.
Unfortunately, failed guides or tensioners may cause a chain to jump a tooth or more on a sprocket or may even cause a chain to snap.
You can also download a video containing bad timing chain noise sent to me by dankvwguy HERE. For those older VRs with EGR systems, you will have to deal with the removal of some EGR components from the top, rear of the engine in order to access the timing chains. Since this situation is not always possible (either the crank was not set to TDC before the upper chain was removed or the crank was turned with the upper timing chain disconnected), before reinstalling the head and upper timing chain, you MUST make sure to rotate the crank until Cyl.
If it is not visible, turn the crankshaft another revolution and check again for the notch.


Next, we recommend not installing these pre-intercooler unless you are injecting pre-blower on a supercharged engine that has an intake mounted intercooler. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.
If either were to happen, serious damage to the engine would result as valves slam into pistons at high speed. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, it should take somewhere between 2 and 8 hours to perform. I used packing tape attached to the Al plates and wrapped around the fuel lines to keep the plates from accidentally slipping into the block. Doing so with the tensioner submerged will ensure that oil and not air fills the tensioner.
Repeat the process until the crankshaft is at TDC AND you can see the notch in the intermediate sprocket. Injecting before front mount intercooler can cause the water-alcohol mixture to collect at the bottom, because of the restriction of the tubes.
When the timing chain parts are in good working order, the chains are under considerable tension and NOTHING should be loose enough to rattle. If your VR has an EGR system, make sure to see the section devoted to this in the DIY UPDATES section at the end of the DIY.
Make sure you do not extend the tensioner too far or too much tension may be applied to the upper tensioner rail, causing premature wear. You may have to rotate as much as 3+ revolutions (4 would get you back to your starting place) in order for both to occur simultaneously. The amount of crankshaft revolution necessary will depend on how far off the crankshaft was from TDC or how much the crankshaft was rotated with the upper timing chain disconnected. Pre-Turbo waterWe don't recommend this location at all, if you do not have the proper equipment, such as, the proper nozzle, nozzle size and high pressure pump. You'll either need to figure out what is wrong and fix it, or remove everything and start again from scratch.
This make sense since the camshafts have 27 teeth and two rotations of the crank (720°) will cause the cams to rotate one full rotation, or 27 teeth.
Pre-IntercoolerPre-intercooler seems like a sensible nozzle location but, the thing to remember about this is: if the air entering the intercooler is pre-cooled, the ability of the intercooler is reduced because the temp difference is lesser.
The other problem is that there's a possibility that the hot air from the turbo might unnecessarily vaporize the water and take up some of the volume built up by the turbo that was supposed to be for the charge. Pre-intercooler does work for some track cars such as road racing that operate at a more constant higher RPM.
Post IntercoolerMost computer controlled engines have an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. The reason for putting it before the IAT sensor is because it will see the cooler temps and the engine will advance timing, allowing for more power. This post intercooler nozzle location should be the primary nozzle location to be considered for most users.In theory, since the air charge will be mixed for a longer distance, and therefore time, allowing for the moisture to be absorbed by the air, creating the coolest possible air charge going into the cylinders.
Pre-Air Intake Temperature SensorIn the cold side charge pipe is usually an easier or less intrusive nozzle location for most user's than the IC exit tank, but still the closer to IC the better. After Air Intake SensorAfter the Air Intake Sensor: You can usually mount it either before or after the ‘butterfly' and still be after the air intake temperature sensor. The main difference when mounting the injector before or after the butterfly is there is less vacuum before versus after the butterfly when idling or driving in vacuum. And with the closer proximity to the combustion chambers is going to provide a larger amount of mixture into the cylinders. This option is best for max cooling.The water here is being injected in a manner much like port fuel injection and the bigger water molecules being injected have a more direct effect on in cylinder cooling, and altering the flame front of the combustion charge in a way much like a higher octane fuel.
To take full advantage of this nozzle location it is suggested that trimming away some of the factory dumped fuel be done. In other words, in order to take advantage of the better properties of water over fuel for cooling and injecting water at this location, you want to remove the dumped fuel and actually REPLACE this with water.
This injection point with a pretty sophisticated WI control method allows for the most advantageous use of water injection.



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