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The WARMAdvantage Program provides rebates towards the purchase of qualifying high efficiency water heaters. MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE FOR YOUR HOME, YOUR FAMILY AND THE ENVIRONMENT IS EASIER THAN YOU THINK.
In emergency situations, water heaters are replaced in haste based solely on storage tank size. Make sure your water heater is properly vented and insulate at least the first 15 feet of your hot water pipes. Talk to your installer about the maintenance requirements of your new equipment and have your installer show you how to perform basic maintenance tasks. If you have a venting system that looks like this your water heater is an atmospherically vented gas burning appliance.
Often these types of water heaters are vented in combination with another appliance, most commonly a furnace or boiler.
Doing a visual inspection of the vent (metal chimney) and looking for rust is something you can do yourself.
Have your heating professional check to be sure your water heater and any other atmospherically drafted appliances are venting properly, especially if your water heater has #1 and #2 as shown above. When you are ready to replace this water heater, consider a power-vented water heater which will be eligible for a rebate.
We are performing maintenance on the website this afternoon, so you may experience occasional outages during your visit this afternoon.
The Energy Saver-Manufactured Housing Standard Atmospheric Vent gas water heater is convertible for propane and natural gas and is designed and to meet a wide range of needs of Manufactured Housing installations.
Featuring a 40-gallon tank and a 35,500 BTU gas burner, the FMHR-40 Standard Vent delivers a first hour rating of 62 gallons and a recovery rate of 36 gallons per hour. The estimated annual cost to operate this water heater in Taipei, 03.Need to view or change our assumptions?
Our anode rods have a stainless steel core that extends the life of the anode rod allowing superior tank protection far longer than standard anode rods. Energy Saver models secure air from inside the home (standard vent) or from outside the home (direct vent). Our Energy Saver models meet all of today's governmental requirements for manufactured housing installation. Most everyone is looking to live a little greener these days, with motivating factors typically being the preservation of the environment or financial considerations. He connected a servo to the temperature control knob on his water heater, allowing it to be adjusted by a microcontroller.
I left my boiler running on its regular temperature setting for a few months while trying to sell my vacant condo. Also, I’d worry about metal fatigue due to large frequent swings in temperature of a boiler designed to be at a constant temperature. I agree – the lag time between turning off the dial and how long it takes to actually cool the water in the tank is pretty long.
I think this is pretty common in England, I seem to remember either Bill Bryson or Cory Doctorow mentioning it. The amount of energy lost to the surroundings is going to mainly vary according to the the temperature difference between the water in the tank and the surroundings, a greater temperature difference = greater loss of energy. I haven’t looked at my hot water heater recently but I did rebuild a hot tub some years ago, and the temperature sensor for the thermostat was a bulb slid into a bit of tubing that projected into the water. It would be much cleaner to remove the original thermostat, slide an appropriate temperature sensor into the tube, and use an appropriately fat relay to completely replace the original thermostat. If the tank were uninsulated then OF COURSE this would help because the lag between heating the water and then losing that heat to the surrounding environment would be very short.
Or buying a PID and integrating it in or better still, buying a preengineered drop in solution.


Assuming we hold the water and room temperature constant we will have a constant rate of energy ( power) loss.
The amount of energy savings is highly dependent upon the time constant of the temperature of the tank and how long it is off. I think that the people mentioning having hot water 3 days after a power outage are forgetting that gas water heaters have a mechanical thermostat and don’t need any electric power to continue to function. Um for the people talking about R-Values and showers 3 days after loosing power, Keep in mind that he is probably using warm water during the time he doesn’t need hot water. Those are decent points although I disagree with E): the efficiencies of burning the gas would be present whether you are heating the water back up or using the burner every now and again to maintain a fixed temp so the efficiencies essentially factor out.
Also none of us can state whether it would save much overall – you are correct that numbers do not lie, but without running the numbers we can draw no conclusions as to what the savings actually are, other than hand waving and intuition that is sometimes very right, but also sometimes very wrong.
I am near the gas powered water heater in my basement most days and sometimes late into the night. My point was basically that the savings was so minor that it wasn’t worth bothering with because other things that could be done would result in much better savings.
It also means that it is less efficient but also cheaper at the same time because natural gas is cheaper than electricity for the same BTU (as far as I know, everywhere in the USA).
To be eligible, you must purchase, install, and operate a unit that meets all applicable efficiency requirements.
Make sure your installer helps you choose a system sized to meet your family’s needs. Some homes have high efficiency furnaces or boilers vented separately from traditional water heaters. Assumes a 2.2 GPM flow rate and an 8 minute shower length.Need to view or change our assumptions? This represents our closest approximation of your likely experience with this water heater in Taipei, 03, but actual performance may vary depending on factors beyond our ability to control or estimate. The units are available in either standard vent or direct vent models, with your choice of natural gas or propane operation. Having a rough idea as to the schedule his family keeps during an average week, he wrote an application for his Netduino that would actuate the servo when needed.
The energy MOSTLY goes into heating the water up (which takes a lot of energy – 1 calorie per gram) vs maintaining heat once it is heated (which is vastly mitigated by insulation).
But unless the r-value is stupid low and there is tons of drafts (there are not) and other methods of heat loss, the concept of not heating your hot water heater up because you fear greater losses doesn’t really hold water. In order to maintain that temperature we will have to replace the the energy lost to the surroundings.
If we turn off the power input via the heater the rate that energy is leaving will drop with the temperature of the water. The total energy lost would be the integral of the function describing the rate of energy lost over one hour, and since the function is decreasing, the total energy loss would be less than holding it at a constant temperature. In Europe for the home you would pretty much always get a combination boiler which gives tankless on demand hot water and central heating in one unit. Nevertheless, water tanks are quite efficient at what they do and have been for many years.
It takes 12,000 BTU to equal one ton and most houses have 2 – 6 tons of cooling or heating capacity. But if we assume the tank to be fairly well insulated (many are only insulated to a modest degree) and that the room the heater is in to be a reasonable temperature (not 40 degrees F or something) then all else equal, the variation in temperatures of the tank *should* help save a small, small amount. By preparing yourself with some basic information, you will be able to make an informed decision regarding the best water heater for your home.
For various reasons, some may vent products of combustion to the inside of the home instead of up the vent and outside. But just because there are no visual signs does not guarantee your gas burning appliances are venting properly.


After a few calculations, he found that they only required hot water 68 of the 168 hours per week that the water heater was typically running. A DS1307 real-time clock was wired to the Netduino for accurate timekeeping, so as to ensure [Fabien’s] wife never had to endure a cold shower.
Turning off the heater means that no energy is put back to replace the energy leaving so the temperature of the water drops. We have tanks that are hundreds of gallons and the cost and amount of energy needed to take them from 70 F to 140 F is HUGE. The energy lost to the surroundings will be driven by the temperature difference between the tank and the room, impeded by the thermal resistance of the tank and convection to the air. If the temperature is dropping very slowly when the heater is off, and the heater is never off long enough for the temperature to drop appreciably then there wouldn’t be much difference between the energy used when keeping the water at a fixed temperature and the energy used when turning off the heater then heating the water back up, however the energy used will be less than maintaining a fixed temperature, otherwise your breaking the first law of thermodynamics. The good news is that it works fine through power failures, the bad news is it is difficult to automate it’s operation.
He figured the best way to save a few dollars was to rig the water heater to turn itself down when it wasn’t being used.
As the temperature of the water drops the amount of energy leaving drops (smaller temperature difference). But once you hold them there, a simple PID can maintain them for almost no energy – only minor losses.
You spent a large amount of energy to heat it up and then it sits and coasts along for a long time without losing much energy. Sure if the insulation in the tank is great the temperature could take a long time to drop, but regardless, as the temperature decreases, the total rate of energy loss decreases. Flushing out all the gunk from a years worth of water heating can save you cost in energy from removing sediment that will deposit on the elements and from buildup destroying the tank itself. Thus to heat the water back up will always be less than the energy that would be used to maintain the water at a set temperature. If you wanted to maintain the heat, you would just need to add a small amount of heat every so often.
I would suggest focusing your energy on better payouts – like better building insulation, a white roof, energy efficient HVAC equipment and other large energy consumers (like dishwashers or clothing dryers).
When the heater is turned back on the energy that left will have to be replaced to get the water back up to temperature, however because the rate of energy loss decreases with temperature the total amount of energy that must be replaced will be LESS than the amount of energy that would have been put in to maintain a fixed temperature. The very nature of a tank means you essentially have a capacitor from which to draw water from.
Obviously if you left it out, exposed to air currents and with no insulation, it would cool rapidly. That capacitor leaks slowly of course (self discharges) but for the most part – it stays pretty constant. Smith reserves the right to make product changes or improvements at any time without notice. So the biggest question is – how well insulated is the hot water system and that dictates how quickly heat is being lost. So again – this hack *MIGHT* save a few pennies at the expense and hassle of colder hot water and other aggravations (what if you want a hot shower at 3 am every so often? If it is insulated enough as I suspect it is, then only a small amount of heat is lost and therefore this hack, while intelligent in its theory, falls completely flat in the real world.



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