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People often think exterior storm windows must seal tightly to create an insulating dead air space. Also, if a tightly sealed dead air space were created, the storm pane would likely get foggy during cold weather.
When measuring the dimensions of the exterior window opening to determine the size of storm window needed, plan on locating the storm window as closes as possible to the primary window pane.
A basic simple design of exterior storm window is just a rectangular frame made with standard 1-by-2 lumber. Clear acrylic glazing is lightweight, easier to work with, less expensive, and more impact resistant than glass.
Plan on making the storm window frames about one-half inch smaller than the window opening. Simple butt corner joints are the easiest to cut and assemble, but they are not as strong as mitered corner joints nor do they look as good.
A better looking option is to nail a narrow stop strip inside the frame and have the pane rest against it.
Another advantage of using a propane engine is it requires very little maintenance and has a longer life than a gasoline engine.

Step 2: Use a miter saw to cut accurate 45-degree angles on the ends of the sides of the frame pieces for strong, attractive joints. Step 4: Score the clear acrylic sheet with a utility knife and then bend it to snap it apart. Step 5: Attach foam weatherstripping around the frame to seal against the window opening and to hold the storm window in place. Step 6: Force the completed storm window into the window opening as close to the primary window as possible.
I attached the left and right expanders and positioned the top and bottom expanders to match the side length.
This would be ideal, but just blocking the full force of the wind against your primary windows reduces energy loss. Use an inexpensive miter box or an electric miter saw to make precise 45-degree cuts on the frame ends. The Burch windows have an expander piece on all four sides that makes it easy to fit the frame into the window opening. I then placed the storm window frame into the window area and made sure the bottom of the frame was equidistant from the sill (Photo B).

For the best durability and impact resistance, select expensive polycarbonate sheets.These may yellow slightly after being exposed to the sun for several years.
The weatherstripping seals against the window opening sides and holds the lightweight storm windows in place.
Before cutting the acrylic to fit the frame, test fit the frame in the window opening.You have two options for installing the clear pane. Using a propane mower costs about 30 percent less at today's prices and produces only a fraction as much emissions as gasoline. After removing the windows from the frame, I cut the left and right expander pieces to fit the sides and the angle of my sill. Especially if you are not interested in a professional appearance, the material cost is low and it requires just simple tools and minimal carpentry skills.

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