Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the rear of the alternator has power from the main cable, and the charging warning light is ON, you may have fried the alternator.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't view the attachment, as I am not a member of that forum. Comments: Sorry Nick, its a Audi A8 2000, V8 3,7 quattro tip-tronic. How could the battery charge without a DF conected? Followup from the Pelican Staff: The D+ wire should be connected and have power to the alternator when the key is in the run position. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could have jump started the regulator, I haven't seen that before, but you never know. Followup from the Pelican Staff: The blue wire should have charging system volts when the engine is running. Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would double check the ground and positive connections to the starter and battery.
Thus the first check: Connect +12 volts from the battery to the DF terminal on the relay board.
You will want to check charging system voltage and current to confirm the alternator is faulty.
Just to reiterate, battery is new, alternator is a newly installed rebuilt Bosh from PP, regulator is new from PP. But the DF field wire is NOT connected, nor is there a connection on this alt to connect it to.
I was looking at the wire diagrams and it appears that the 'exciter' wire should have battery voltage when in run and start.
If you add fused power, does it charge? I am going by your info, as I don't have the wiring in front of me.
Ignition light continuous on full not dimmingwhen engine running - battery newish and good - 14v over battery when engine running so charge ok - looks like about 10v on the blue wire from the alternator - suspected this so got 2nd exchange alternator - senerio still the same! If you look at the Haynes book, what is not readily apparent, but is true nevertheless, is that the set of diodes that connect to the D+ terminal are a duplicate set (except for lower curent rating) to the ones for the B+ terminal, which is the actual high current output of the alternator. This effectively controls the field current (whose source is now the output from the D+ terminal, and not the charge warning lamp) and thus regulates the output voltage of the alternator. This is the maximum field current situation, and should result in maximum output of the alternator.

The Bosch book that I have states that the lamps must be at least 2 watts for 12 volt systems.
The D+ terminal is therefore a duplicate output terminal of the alternator, with less current capability.
If you have replaced your charge warning lamp recently, then too small a lamp may be your culprit. Helpful boy offered a jump start, proceeded to put jumper cables on BACKWARDS and lots of sparks erupted from battery posts.
Same reading with users on lights, heating ect. Maybe I should try it with another model Bosch regulator, but with a spade connector for the DF wire? Now the alt isn't charging, I have 8 volts on the B+ but mainly cause I keep the battery charged so I can drive the car short distances. The lower set of diodes on current track 80 is common to both the D+ and B+ functions, and forms the ground return for both the B+ and D+ outputs. Switched cables to correct posts and the bug started and was driven home and put the battery charger on over night. When I looked under the car I saw a loose wire, a green one and my best thoughts are it is the DF wire. Never disconnect a battery cable while engine is running to test alternator, you may cause damage to alternator or other electrical components from the surge in amperage.
When the car is first started, there is no output from the alternator at either the B+ or D+ terminals. Afterwards, charging voltage at battery never came up above 12.5 volts, so I replaced the third party regulator with a Hella.
Should I maybe change the regulator for a model with DF connection, as the model of regulator that is built on this alt has no connection on the regulator?
If I measure voltage from second wirethought it was black but I guess it could be blue, how much should I be getting?
The current supplied to the DF terminal determines the strength of the magnetic field that penetrates the output windings, and thus controls the alternator's output.
This means that the voltage regulator will have difficulty in maintaining sufficient field current for normal output. If that is the case I still wonder how the alt was charging the battery for over 500km's without the DF connected!

The D- terminal is connected to the alternator frame, and is the ground return for the voltage regulator. The field regulating resistance is low or short (between D+ and DF terminals) and the resulting load on the crippled D+ system drops it's voltage well below the battery voltage. I found out this model Bosch can be fitted with two different types of regulators; one with and one without spade connector. This places the D+ terminal close to ground potential, because the resistance of the field winding is not large. This means that there is +12 volts on one side of the charge warning lamp, and the other side of the lamp is grounded through the alternator field winding.
I was driving with lights, heating, screenwipers, radio and so on for 500km's so I don't think I was simply using up the battery, it must have been charging for a while without DF wire connected.
This same current, however, also flows through the alternator field winding, producing a magnetic field.
Is there a other way to connect the DF somewhere to the alternator, like to the D+ or the B+?
This magnetic field is what the alternator needs to start up, and if everything is working correctly, that's exactly what happens.
I heard that I may be able to replace diodes in the alternator, which is only one year old, how do I replace diodes?
I heard I may be able to replace diodes in the alternatorthe alternator was installed a year ago, how would I do that? The D+ terminal is connected to one end of the charge warning lamp, while the other end of the lamp is connected to the battery via the ignition switch.
Since the B+ terminal is hard-wired to the battery, and since both the D+ and B+ diodes are fed from the same set of windings in the alternator, no voltage difference can exist between these two points.

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