25 aluminum boat for sale qld,boat builders in queensland university,houseboats for rent on table rock lake quarry,scout boat dealers jacksonville fl - 2016 Feature

Published 18.11.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Free Fishing Boat Plans

Miami, FL  – February 12, 2015: Louisiana-based shipbuilder Metal Shark has introduced the first model in its new series of recreational fishing boats, a 25-foot bay boat, at the Miami International Boat Show. Metal Shark is best known for the vessels it designs and builds for military, law enforcement, and commercial markets worldwide.
While the 25 Gravois shares the sleek lines and amenities common among today’s high-end bay boat offerings, it is immediately notable for its all-aluminum construction.
Well-known naval architect Michael Peters provided the running surface design for the 25 Gravois, which features an aggressively-stepped, ventilated, deep vee tunnel hull. The 25 Gravois is 100% digitally designed, and unlike fiberglass boats, requires no tooling as a part of its manufacturing process. In similar fashion, the boat’s standard transom configuration has been designed for fishing, with a full-height transom that boasts dual livewells.
Throughout the boat, customers may choose from a long list of available amenities, including multiple choices for seating, tops, fishing features, lighting, audio systems, electronics, and custom flooring options.
The 25-foot Gravois bay boat is part of Metal Shark’s new Gravois recreational aluminum line that will eventually include a 22’ bay boat, 28’ hybrid bay boat, 35’ offshore center console, and also 32’ and 38’ catamaran fishing boats. The recreational line bears the namesake of Metal Shark’s parent company, Gravois Aluminum Boats.
The 25 Gravois will be on display at the Miami International Boat Show February 12-16, 2005. For sale very very nice 1993 Grady White Sailfish 25 Cabin with twin 2005 Merc Optimax 200 hp (fuel injection) Motors. In the interest of inspiring ideas in others, I thought I would post pictures of one of my spring projects–making a boat cover support for my Sea Nymph 14R.
Rather than provide too many specifics, these pics should be enough to inspire you to build a setup that will work for your boat. Every once in a while while I’m putting in or taking out at the lake, someone asks me about the splashguards on the back of my Lund Explorer. If you like to backtroll and you’re used to taking a bath, do something nice for yourself this season and install some Whitecaps.
These are interesting because they combine the ventilator-style cutout with a willow leaf, and the edges are serrated (serrated plus gyration=cyration?).
What do you do with the huge amounts of snow in your yard this year if you live in North Dakota?
Having rigged two brand new walleye boats and several smaller project boats with a full complement of accessories, I thought I would share some tips for fasteners to use when attaching accessories.
Your local Fastenal store is a good place to find stainless fasteners, especially button head screws, cap screws, and the type of things  you don’t normally find at your local hardware store.
Inspired by others on the web who have posted pictures of their creations, I set out to build an outboard stand to store my small outboard during the winter months. Being a practical guy, I can’t at this point justify buying a snowmobile just for ice fishing, so my four wheeler has to do double duty plowing snow and dragging my ice house around. With those mods, I think just about any 4×4 four wheeler can be turned into a relatively capable ice fishing machine. This last summer, I stumbled across something I had been looking for, so I just had to buy it (sound familiar?). In this case, it was a 14 foot aluminum boat on a pretty decent trailer, with a functional outboard–all for 800 bucks. For my part, I stripped the decals and had a friend cut new ones for both the boat and motor, refinished the motor hood, installed rod holders, and mounted a RAM ball for my GPS. Future plans include mounting swivel seats front and rear (since a brand new pair came with the boat along with the anchor) and installing a fish finder. Note: the epoxy sealer I mentioned using on both boat projects was obtained from Jamestown Distributors. Summer Project #1 this year was rebuilding my daughter’s 1960-something Alumacraft Tampico II. With all of the plywood removed, I spent a large amount of time using Zinsser adhesive remover to take off the carpet glue that was EVERYWHERE on the thing. With most of the work done (painting is next year’s project), I figured it was time to see if the old girl would float. A Big-Boat Ride in a Bay Boat Package. The Metal Shark 25 Gravois Bay boasts an advanced hull design by renowned naval architect Michael Peters. Beneath the removable forward cushions, you’ll find large, latching storage compartments.
Simply flip up the armrests and retract the seat cushion to convert the helm bench seat into a comfortable leaning post. The transom of the 25 Gravois Bay can be configured to incorporate a fold-away bench seat, shown here.
The available transom bench seat folds away when not in use, leaving a clean, obstruction free transom for casting or trolling.
The 25 Gravois Bay features padded wraparound bolsters and ideal freeboard for fishing security and comfort. I am having some trouble deciding how much to curve the stringers upwards (really downwards as boat is upside down) as I bend them in to meet the more narrow frames 7 and 8 near bow, and finally to touch stem. I have only tacked enough stringers to keep frames level and at the proper distances from each other. Get some help and drop a sheet of plywood over what you have done so far to ensure that the plate will make contact with the stringers. The reason that I ask is that if you got the plans from a supplier who has had several builds with either plywood or aluminum, things might work out. Normally the way we would move forward from here if you cannot get the plywood to lay flat on the chines and the keel, is to lay the plate out and let it follow a natural curve making contact on the keel and the chine and do not worry about the stringers at all at this time. Ryerson metals must have a branch out your way, and will have longer lengths than 8 or 10 feet. Although certainly a novice, I do under the concept of developable surfaces and understand that the aluminum can only bend on one axis at a time. This boat has been built numerous times in plywood and at least a half dozen times in aluminum, and it is not a design intended to require an English Wheel or similar to shape the skin. Correct me if I am wrong though- but if the plywood test sheets (and eventually real aluminum sheet) fits the general curves, but is not tightly fitting all stringers - I could then move the loose fitting stringers out a bit within the frame slots so that they touch the hull skin before welding to the skin. Side stringers on aft frames - The plans state to place side stringers approx at equal distances apart, between cockpit sole and sheer ? this worked out ok as there is not a lot of bend here. Side stringers on fwd frames - The plans state to place side stringers approx at equal distances apart, between chine and sheer. Dumb question But, when you say that they rise near the bow ? do you mean they rise as it sits on my jig ? upside down?
I understand your suggestion about using mini-transverse frames, if required, rather than bending the stringers too much.
Unless you guys suggest differently, I think I may just bend my stringers where it is easy, tacking occasionally. You can sand out the bump of the imprint, if you don't, you will see these bumps when you paint the boat. One of the biggest first time builders mistakes occurs is when they have done all the welding and want to take a grinder to smooth welds or take hard corners and soften them before painting.
The hard grinding disc, the flap disc which is ridged but the sand paper inserts have some flexibility, and the sanding disc. You need a depressed wheel grinding and flap disc (Normally they have the nut already in the plastic disc) so the nut that holds the disc on is below the face of the disc.
The trick here is not to use just say the top of the disc to grind off the weld as it is almost impossible to keep the disc parallel to the plate. You can see evidence of this, apart from your difficulties in attaching them, in that you have 'flat spot's. I asked several questions about the best way to do this on a couple of boatbuilding forums and most thought the tee was overkill and to use flatbar, as I am doing. I hadn't looked at these pics in a long time, so now looking again, I see one has wood stringers that do see to trend downwards towards ths gunwales. If you observe anything else from these pics, or othewise have further advice, please feel free to give it - I really appreciate all of you experienced guys taking the time to help a novice homebuilder.


In commercial vessels and larger vessels, steel or aluminium, there is a real need to avoid a weld over a weld. There is just not enough rigidity from the moment of inertia of the thin plate to keep the plate fair.
Good catch on the stringers where they did not maintain the arc, that the flat bar would be flat.
Often these locations were at the corners of boat at the transom where the narrow ledge at the sheer joined. Northeaster, forgot to mention in the earlier comment that when you are grinding any curved surface you are better to use either the flap disc or the sanding disc to deal with these areas, still keeping the disc as flat as possible to the work. So, the shell plating is all fully welded, thus any inertia you speak off, is now automatically there as the whole shell is very stiff. The welding sequence of the stringers and frames relies upon 1) the correct size weld (not too much heat).
I don't usually build with frames as you show in your posts but I'd surely like to comment on them hoping there may be some help in my remarks. I've heard this is from rolls stock cooling at the mill from the outer edges and therefore a very tiny contraction over the edges but whatever its cause? This bulge or convex shape of the 'natural' bend is very slight, but it will not happen in plywood because of ply's layers and grain directions. Next, on the only framed hulls I've built the lofting or framing was not accurate in the flat plans to layout the longs- they had to be laid out on the frames with extrusions or battens to find the notch locations accurately.
I don't know of another way to do this work unless the designer had taken time to fair the longs or they were computer generated frames and longs?
That key step seems to me, to be a major contribution to the lack of fair surfaces in your frame - the notches clearly show the longs are not notched into the frames correctly.
I agree with AdHoc; the frame notches in aluminum should have a drilled inner end of notch. The reason that smaller framed boats of this class do not have the longs welded fast to the frames is when the hull panels are all tacked on, then welded at chine, keel and transom, there is some small added convex expansion to these panels.
I plan the welds of the entire boat on copies of the hull's lines or even by hand sketching. If I have transverse bulkheads or frames, I bevel anywhere this will be welded to the hull's inner surfaces. This image is along that locker's deck, on the port side looking at the inside of the stem, of the skiff above.
This is why I take time to layout the welds on the plans, then mark the longs and bevel where they will be welded.
Your stringers as laid out and notched seem to me a headache you cannot overcome as they ARE NOT on the same surfaces as the frames. Kenai, AK Ad Hoc 03-14-2014 05:20 PM 1 Attachment(s) Thanks for wading in Kevin. I've heard this is from rolls stock cooling at the mill from the outer edges and therefore a very tiny contraction over the edges but whatever its cause I think may be you?re referring to the ?line? created by the rolling. The boat is made from digitally-cut plates of military-grade 5086 aluminum alloy, and is custom-built to “military-spec” standards alongside Metal Shark vessels produced for the U.S.
Accordingly, the boat is offered with a very long list of available configurations and equipment. Customers who desire a more luxurious layout may opt to add a comfortable rear bench seat with integrated backrest that easily folds away into the transom. For customers more concerned with durability than looks, the 25 Gravois may be delivered in the same bare-aluminum finish specified by the U.S.
Metal Shark also offers recreational versions of some of its military and law enforcement offerings, such as its 32’ and 40’ “Fearless” all-aluminum offshore center consoles. Company founder Jimmy Gravois and his family have built custom aluminum Gravois fishing boats since the early 1980s. Key customers include the United States Coast Guard, Navy, Air Force, Army, foreign militaries, port operators and pilot associations, fire departments, and commercial entities worldwide.
Its aggressively stepped, ventilated, deep-vee tunnel hull is the result of the very latest in hydrodynamic concepts and offers unparalleled ride and handling characteristics. The tilt steering wheel and throttle are ideally placed, and the ergonomic positioning of  helm seat, footrest, and controls allows for optimum comfort during long hauls. For the fishing purists who require an open forward cockpit, the 25 Gravois Bay can be produced without forward seating or cockpit table.
The livewell fills quickly, offers ample water circulation, and is fully gasketed so water doesn’t slop onto the deck. From the picts that you have sent, it appears that you have some curvature between the keel and the chine. The plans show measurements on transom and frame 4 only, so I just marked and cut fwd frames where the seemed to want to go. If you make full length vertical welds on the side of the boat, your boat will look like a starved cow. We would turn down the heat, to where we would get some penetration but not the same as say the weld settings for a fillet structural weld, make a 3 inch pass then skip 6- 8 inches and then another 3 inch pass.
Norton and others I expect, have a 7 inch rubber disc that has say 6 - one inch holes in the disc. However, as you can see on my comments on the picture, it appears, could be wrong, that the 2 frames identified have a change in shape over a short distance that is creating the problem. The FBs should be a smooth natural curve, but you have straight sections, which is where the change from a smooth curve to being forced into a direction which is no longer natural is occurring, thus a straight sectional bit. Unless you know what the displacement and speed and wave hieghts the boat is designed to meet, it is all a guess.
I have seen several home builds where the rookie welded in a frame completely vertical in the side and had the thin plate deform inwards. They will take the CAD generated cut plates, lay the opposing floor pieces together, put in a couple of temporary frames to maintain the deadrise, and begin tacking the plates from the transom forward. Without going into too much detail (and taking over the thread) the hull plating should have been all fully welded, in the correct sequence well before the long.ts stringers and frames are welded to the shell plating. Since over size welds (because the welder thinks more weld is good) can make matters worse, 2) the sequence starting at midships on the centreline, then slowly progress in equal steps fore and aft and from centre line to outboard both port and stbd again in equal steps. The bow or 'lay' of the hull sheets if visible if you take time to stand a 5'x25' sheet on the long edge. This small compound shape can be removed by pulling the sheet up to the framing or left but it exists; so Plywood as a frame fairing aide is a very mixed blessing.
It will help aft the masted station but is not as reliable forward where the cylindrical sections give way to conic surfaces.
This is from the small contraction of these panels around their edges as they're welded out- both in side and outside. I tack just inside the ends of each weld site, and then dress all tacks with a carbide burr and then weld the race track over those tacks.
I would like the even thickness welds as they're easier but if the bevels and wire feed were adjusted well, and your reflexes could work at the travels speeds needed, these welds are possible, but in a keel down position I would consider them unrealistic for a first time builder, low hour welder.
But the point here is that by beveling the deck, and the transverse bulkhead's vertical edges after they were fit and before tacking in; the weld is 'buried' into the edges of the two materials and therefore the lever arm of pull of the face contraction is reduced. It is why I bevel bulkheads, as shown here as I think the resulting hulls come out cleaner.
I?m always interested in other peoples view and take on how they build, especially boats which are much smaller than I work with. The rolling that is required even for a basic ?O? temper, to flatten and obtain a tight dimensional tolerance. Coast Guard for their Metal Shark patrol boat fleet, for a discount of $4,995 off the base boat price. From its two fully self-contained facilities in South Louisiana, Metal Shark produces a wide range of custom monohull and catamaran center console and pilothouse patrol boats, fireboats, pilot boats, passenger vessels, and other specialty vessels up to 250’. Home Depot in my area sells a kit for more money than I paid for the materials to build this design (about $125 including finish and fasteners), and it is far inferior.
The hull is made using heavy plates of military-grade 5086 aluminum alloy that has been digitally cut, expertly welded,  and flawlessly crafted to create sleek lines that rival those of the finest fiberglass boats on the water.


Invest in a 25 Gravois Bay and say goodbye to gelcoat issues, stringer and transom worries, and other issues associated with fiberglass boats. The boat is quick to plane, offers nimble, sports car-like handling, and delivers a smooth, dry, comfortable ride, even in heavy seas. There’s plenty of room for the installation of electronics, and the large acrylic windshield affords superb visibility. You’ll find rod holders, rod racks, grab handles, cup holders, storage lockers, and other amenities conveniently placed and easy to use. The boat may be built with the seat omitted, and a large transom livewell installed in its place. Metal Shark is a fully custom builder and can modify vessels to meet customer specifications.
This means that in order for the aluminum to make a curve between the keel and chine and then the curve around the bow, it has to bend in two directions at once. This way no more long.ts in tight spaces, nor forcing FBs to bend to a curve they don't want to ( a no-no). If you use the flap disc after the grinding disc, the material should be good enough to paint without further sanding but as it does not take a lot of time to sand, it never hurts to take a sanding disc to the surface. The sand paper has the same holes and when the paper is attached to the disc and the disc is turning you can actually see the spot that you are sanding. You use the bottom of the disc to cut the weld bead material off so that the disc is parallel to the plate.
Depending upon the shape of the hull and how you set the stringers these can run out going up to the gunwale or down to the stem.
These areas are highly stressed, which means you're restraining them prior to welding; which you must never do. The effect is further multiplied if the frame is welded in where the plate is curved at the front of the boat, the heat relieves the stress and the plate flattens out. As the opposing pieces make contact the bow curves will form themselves and be a developable surface. Where we were absolutely unable to get to both side of the weld when it was in place, we would tack in an aluminum backing plate say 3 inches wide behind where we were going to make the butt joint.
If you can change your sequence to produce the minimal distortion and effects, it saves in the long term. That is; if you take the developed shape of the 'orange peel' of the bow forefoot of the bottom and pull up the keel edges there will be a natural 'bulge' from keel to chine. All sheet will show a bow to one direction or the other, I build with the bow, by marking it and using it outward during the layout of the hull panels. I also agree that the chines, keels, longs areas should (must) all have a 'mouse hole' 'limber hole' to provide an avoidance of the two welds AND to allow the MIG torch's gas flow and bead to continue past the transverse frames at the keel, chine and any other intersections of the frame.
Now, the longs are pressed outward, usually a small amount to touch the hull panels' inside surfaces and this is why they are not welded fast to the transverse frames before final hull weld out.
This reduction leaves the hull fair, there always be print through or the weld expansion of a good penetrating aluminum T fillet type weld, but it can be minimized with weld joint preparation.
I'm not saying my first couple dozen skiffs turned out this way, but I'd like to think my next dozen will? Luxury-minded customers may opt for a bow seating configuration, to which an electric-actuated bow table may be added.
I figured a tiller with less horsepower would be a good match, which also solved the problem of what to do with the broken windshield. She can directly experience heritage through some fish swung over the side and into the old Alumacraft.
Not only have the legendary Gravois construction methods been proven through decades of use and abuse by demanding anglers along the Gulf coast, but Metal Sharks are in service with the U.S.
Acceleration is quick throughout the power band, and at speed the boat tracks predictably, with the weighted feel of its stout aluminum hull inspiring driver confidence. If stopped midway, a filler cushion can be added to convert the entire forward cockpit into a large lounging area.
But, this would mean that near the bow the spacing would be closer to the chine and not evenly spaced between the chine and sheer.
You just have simple mini transverse frames, which are also easier to shape exactly to the hull shape too, and easier access for welding too. Rather than put my take on this and why it occurs, i'd like to hear from your experience why you get a lot of distortion.
But unless you or the designer knows what the slamming loads for the hull are going to be and then design the long.t stringers to satisfy that load, how do you know what section to choose? This allows an inner chine weld without involving a weld stop at the transverse frame's intersection with the chine weld seam. They are all TIG welds (not hand TIG, cold wire feed) and the extrusion was placed with tacks at each weld end initially. The table lowers at mid-point to combine with a filler cushion to convert the entire forward cockpit into a lounge area.
Sporting a 40 horse Johnson of early 70s vintage, a set of worn-out control cables, and a dent or two, it didn’t look like much to anyone but a kid who really likes boats.
So, you’ll find flawless welds, watertight rattle-free hatches, and military-spec wiring throughout.
Port and starboard backrests lock quickly into place so that the lounge seats may be used comfortably while underway. You can see in one pic that I have cut a couple of slots in the side frame, in order to try bending while changing the position a couple of inches. The knowledge that commercial yards and the standards that they must adhere to to satisfy Class design and surveyor build, generally it seems does not filter down to the smaller yards and amatuer boat builders. The motor runs and starts good and has had a tune up along with a new propeller installed prior to the 2011 duck season.
Removable contoured backrests may be added to create a pair of forward-facing lounge seats. A side tip related to the snagging issue: if you have gouges on your spray rails or anything that will catch fishing line on your aluminum boat, file them smooth.
Once the structural member is being loaded, from say a slamming load, these welds shall be under load too. What may seem great, quick and hey this is easy, on a monitor with a software that is doing all the work for you, in reality, on the shop floor can be a real mess. In fact you can get away with many things on a smaller boat owing to the law of diminishing returns and scaling.
The problems is that when I graduated we had a mould loft and highly skilled staff that could see a wonky line from a thousand yards in the dark.
Which is often why small boat builders wonder why those like me (bigger boats) insist on detailing the way I do, which they?ve usually never heard of. If you nominally take the weld as a unit stress value of 1 in each weld, the resultant stress at the joint can be sqtroot(2), or 41% greater than anticipated. It is a real skill and talent to fair lines and even more so the produce a set of faired runs for stringers.
This skill and art has been lost and is ?assumed? by button pushers running freeware or if they buy software with a bit more capability still unable to understand the concept of production faired lines. On internal stringers I always run a transverse batten (like a loose straight edge) along the contact points to check for fit. Asked to pay for a set of proper decent production faired lines and stringer runs?.and most will baulk at the cost and time involved when faced with software that does ?it? in seconds! I would surmise that unless you constantly anneal the stringer it might not go where you want it, and possibly it will be too soft when it is there!. Oversized weld beads are also stress raisers since they create localised structural discontinuities which increases the stress even higher. So the up shot is, that the welded cross over joint, of the 2 welds joining together can be as much as 2 times the stress as the welds in the long.t or transverse, or even higher if welded porrly.



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