Best way to fix hole in aluminum boat 12,pontoon boat rental oakland county michigan quarterback,steel motor boats for sale uk,how to make your own lego star wars ship - PDF Review

Published 25.09.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

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If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support. Ive been lurking for a while but extremely thankful that there are so many knowledgeable people on this forum. If so, should I focus my arc on the end tank which has thicker material, create a puddle and feed the filler until it fills into the vein?
Small wire and a small tungsten is a must as well, I used .035 from a spool, I tried both 4043 and 5356 and had better luck with the 5356. I have done them in the past and found that if you squeeze the tube together with some needle nose pliers your chances improve a whole bunch to get it done..
There is some missing information here - such as what type of radiator you are talking about.
You also have to understand that the flues are furnace brazed, where they put the radiator inside a furnace and they heat it until the flues melts to the tank.
Places like C&R racing radiators has a shop where you can send a radiator to be repaired professionally. The only other thing you could do would be to cut the flue at the tank, Cut the flue about a inch away from the tank. I have fixed a bunch of aluminum radiators and oil coolers, usually much bigger than what you're working on. Low temp staybrite silver solder and liquid flux, like the previous post said though crimp the damage first, and clean it.
As far as a hot repair goes, if practice on a scrap radiator proves that the repairman is proficient at tube soldering, then soldering the injured tube could be attempted. If you can't master tube soldering, the injured tube should probably be abandoned and its openings in both headers closed. Myself, I don't know of any silver solder alloys that will bond with aluminum, and have only had limited success with aluminum solders, so for me, I'd say it'd have to be a weld at the header. Whatever the method, you'll have to start with extracting the damaged tube, leaving a clean header opening to work with. If you were the original customer and someone broke your radiator, would your proposed solution be acceptable?
If your fix works, but the original customer thinks it's a "hack" job, who's going to make it right? I understand and agree with you whole-heartedly that I should stay away from this repair and make the tech buy a new one.
On the interior the transom has been refabricated and reinforced with an aluminum support brace. The remaining holes are for the engine mounts and bolts that fasten the marine plywood to the aluminum transom fastened in the interior. Although I am keenly interested in suggestions on what materials or process can be used to make this right. Without knowing the extend, and cause of the holes, simply filling in with weld shall just delay the inevitable. Remove the temporary fasteners and blocks, then drill out each hole with a slightly bigger bit, all the way through the skin and new core.
I am really a novice DIY person without many of the skills required to repair the transom including welding.
I should also mention the interior portion of the transom has been fabricated with an aluminum support brace welded to the aluminum runners along the floor length of the boat and vertically up the interior transom skin. Agreed the best option would be to replace the exterior transom skin with a new piece of aluminum. That being said I 'think' my best option is to repair the holes from the outside transom skin. Location: Eustis, FL A single thin skin of aluminum isn't going to support your engine, even with braces.
Location: Eustis, FL Wow, some really serious Mickey Mouse work going on there.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Last December I shared the story behind a mystery alcove located just outside my master bedroom doors. When I placed the chest into the alcove, I thought how great it would be to have a lamp in this dark corner of the hall. The long upstairs hallway has three overhead lights like the two visible in the photo below, taken when I was preparing to hang wreaths on the exterior windows one Christmas, but what a waste to turn on three lights in the evening to navigate down the hall. So I called a contractor who occasionally does work in my home and asked him to install an outlet in the alcove.
One day, many weeks after the outlet had been installed in the hallway alcove, I was in my dressing area searching for something in the first closet on the right that’s just barely visible in the photo below. I moved some things I had stored on the top shelf  around and my mouth dropped open at what I saw.

I was really wishing I had noticed this while the contractor had been here because he would have gladly repaired it. The first thing you need to do when repairing a large hole similar to the one I had in my closet wall is to cut away the damaged wallboard protruding outward from the hole. I held it up alongside the hole just to verify it would be big enough to cover it and it was. I placed the sticky side of the patch down over the hole and it stuck very securely to the surrounding wallboard. I took a photo when it was partially dried so you could see the difference in how it looks when dry and when still wet. Once the first coat was dry, I donned a dust mask like  this one and got busy sanding with my drywall sanding sponge.
The drywall sponge I used was great because one side was slightly courser than the other one, allowing me to switch between the two sides as needed. After sanding the second coat, I could still just barely see and feel the mesh in a few spots.
After one more coat of joint compound and more sanding once it was dry, I finally had a nice, flat, smooth surface ready for painting. In order to link up, you’ll need to include a link in your MM post back to the party so the other participants will have an opportunity to receive visits from your wonderful blog readers. Only link up Before and After posts that are home, gardening, crafting, painting, sewing, cooking, DIY related. Do not link up a post that was just linked last week since a lot of readers will have already seen that post.
There's not very much wood between those large scupper holes and the bottom of the engin cutout. Rot is a fungus growth that requires freshwater and oxygen to survive, saltwater passing through a cracked scupper is far less likely to support that fungus then a source of water that would more prominently be fresh.
If you do try to get some more time out of this with a Band-Aid you should certainly poison that wood so as to kill the fungus spores.
I most certainly have highlighted the worst-case scenario and a knowledgeable mechanic might find a much better scenario but it won't happen by way of the Internet. Seems like you'd want something to soak into the wood first like a CPES product, then do a thicker epoxy "cap", wouldn't you? Allstate 31FC is a popular brazing material, and Harris Al Core has been a popular soldering material.
The trouble is, the radiator belongs to a customer of a customer and it probably will be difficult to monitor the repair's success. But then heat control would be critical to prevent adjacent tubes from loosing there bond with the header.
Start by neatly cutting the damaged tube, but first warm the fins to break their bond with the portion off the tube that will be removed -and now the tough part- gently warm the header so that the cut stub of damaged tube can be pulled from its socket. I've eatten a few jobs because things went sideways for what ever reason and thats what it took to make the customer happy.
Do YOU want to buy a new radiator for the customer, if thats what he feels is needed to "make this right"?
It's a semi-tractor that somehow picked up a stray stone or something that poked the radiator.
Fortunately though, we are all friends (me, the tech and the customer) and the tech that poked the hole is completely prepared to purchase an identical radiator for the customer. But looking at your transom you have so many, the better option is to replace the transom, that way you'll know what the thickness is and it shall last longer than any temp repair which you're attempting now. You'll still have a transom full of holes, but they'll be sealed reasonably well, you can do it in your driveway and if you don't drop a 150 HP engine on it, you'll likely be fine for a decade with minimum care and a few decades with reasonable care. If you think this transom is just in need of some holes being patched, I've got nothing more I can tell you.
When my contractor entered the attic to fish the wall for the outlet, he made a surprising discovery. I was baffled for a few minutes trying to figure out how I had lived here for so many years and had never noticed this big hole in the closet wall. I made a mental note to myself to fix it one day, then closed the closet doors and promptly forgot about it. I searched how to repair a large hole in a wall and the videos I found online were really complicated and involved cutting out a big square hole in the wall and using wood braces or shims to recreate a place on which to nail more wallboard, etc…  I had a feeling there had to be a simpler solution and there was!
It will just get in the way of the repair patch and cause it to bump outward instead of laying flat. I had measured the hole but it’s best to double-check before adhering the patch to the wall. You absolutely need to use joint compound and not spackle or something similar because spackle will crack and doesn’t work well for repairing large holes in sheet rock. I used the less-course or finer side most of the time so I wouldn’t sand away too much, too quickly. This is how it looked right after I applied it before I used the joint knife to spread it out nice and thin.

I had to place my dusty-from-sanding flashlight near the repaired area in order to get my camera to take the picture below.
They haven’t ever been painted and still have the original paint on them from when the house was built so many years ago. I have been compensated for my time commitment to the program as well as writing about my experience. Well, the occasional bug will find their way in but I do have someone come out and treat around the exterior of my home quarterly. I finally corralled them all into my tool chest recently…trying to be more organized. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. Most of the knowledgeable people will probably be reluctant to recommend Band-Aids on a transom like this, is it also leaking under that aluminum trim which might have compromised more of the wood higher up?
It has a self mixing nozzle which makes it easy to inject into voids, will not sag, and soaks into the wood somewhat. I know I can weld the aluminum but I need to know the best method in which to repair this hole. You don't want to aim your heat on the tank as the tubes are soldered in and you'll end up melting it out somewhere else.
The JB weld is supposed to create a total seal over the hole by penetrating past it but it also renders the surrounding area of the radiator useless by blocking air from passing through.
I'm quoting a repair for a contractor who F'd up a step my old boss and I did originally in 2001. Will you buddy be happy if he's got to shell out to get a new one because your "fix" prevents it from being done right?
Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! The customer is aware of the problem and was willing to use the radiator if it was repaired. Considering all the holes and the cutout, a lot of work, but something that can be done in your driveway. Let this dry, until just barely tacky, then fill each hole with more of the thickened mixture. Then it hit me, this must have happened when my contractor was attempting to fish the wall because this is where the header of the old bedroom doorway is located. It was easy to forget since the hole is almost always hidden behind tons of pillows and cushions I keep on the shelf.
The dropcloth worked great for protecting the clothes and shelf against any stray pieces of joint compound but it doesn’t hurt to cover things a bit better for the sanding that comes later. Just as it’s better when spray-painting something to use several thin coats of paint rather than attempting to cover the surface with one thick coat of paint, repairing a large hole with joint compound produces a better result if the compound is applied in several thin coats. Be sure and go slowly because joint compound sands away effortlessly  and you can remove more than you wish before you know it.
I really liked how this one was especially made for drywall and had two different grit(s) in one block. He doesn't mind coming back or dealing with the hassle of replacing with a new radiator if the repair did fail in the future. He had accidentally punched through the back closet wall (while attempting to fish the wall) since the header was unexpectedly in the way.
Recently while I was cleaning out the closets and revamping my summer wardrobe, I saw it again and decided to fix it once and for all.
You want as thin a layer as possible and it should be nice and smooth without any grooves showing. I decided that was probably a good sign, a sign my repair was looking as it should if the camera couldn’t find anything to focus on.
However, my opinions are entirely my own and I have not been paid to publish positive comments. You can buy the chemicals and treat yourself but I prefer to let the pros do it since they know the correct way. If I commit to this method, I will probably have to cut out a pretty large section just to get access to the leaking flue. That is on the transom to disc, from the outside and from the disc to the transom on the inside.
On the inside use your gloved finger, around the edges of the plywood and make a small fillet of the epoxy ooze out. When you drill new holes for the engine mounts, bond them just like you did the other ones, making them at least 30% larger in diameter then the actual bolt shank clearance hole needs to be. There are times when it's best to leave some things to those that do them day in and out, as well as times when it's best not to put yourself in the middle of what may become a bad situation.

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