Boat building composite materials journal,boats for rent in hot springs ar 15,used pontoon boats for sale in gainesville ga,canoe shelf plans free homemade - How to DIY

Published 18.07.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

The experienced team at NEB started in 1988 with a solid background in traditional boatbuilding materials – aluminum, fiberglass and wood.
Striving to improve upon excellence, New England Boatworks is constantly reaching for new heights in yacht design, boat building, implementation and aesthetics, ensuring that the finished product achieves your vision and is on time and within budget.
Skilled craftsman at New England Boatworks apply their expertise to all modern marine materials, hi-tech composites, fiberglass and wood to achieve optimal performance and aesthetic appeal. A family-oriented marina, East Passage Yachting Center has complete shore side amenities for the avid boater, ranging from head, laundry, and shower facilities to a swimming pool and BBQ-picnic area.
The roots of New England Boatworks are anchored in a time-honored tradition, the America's Cup. Capitalising on their expertise in composite boat building from high-tech racing yachts like Mumm 30, Farr 40 and Farr 52, PCT have also built custom designed super-maxis and cruise racers like the Mills Design 46ft yacht and the Farr 520. Today PCT is an internationally renowned boatbuilding company based in Dubai, ideally positioned to serve its global customer base. Location: Texas Materials to use to repair holes and Rot Hi great site and lots of info here. Location: maine Cloth selection shouldn't be based on ,much more than price in the case of adding to an existing layup. Your savings might amount to 50 lbs, and if your boat weighs 1000 lbs you've saved 5%, but that 5% will cost you an arm and a leg and a lot more work.
If the hull is sound except for the holes, just fix the holes and strengthen the hull on the inside with intelligent beefing in key areas---- across the bottom, transom, and whatever else looks like it could use some improvement. One single later of glass on the bottom isn't a bad idea, but fair it well after repairs and before glassing, long-boarding the uneven areas.
Location: Ontario The cloth to use, IMHO, would be an E-glass weave at 8-12 oz. Location: Monroe WA If your taking the deck off the boat to repair the stringers and transom, why would you want to then glass the outside of the hull? You should be able to reduce your costs dramatically and have a boat that will do everything you want by using polyester resin with mat and roving.
Ok, looks like I'll go with E-Glass around 9oz with epoxy, I already have a gallon of west system & 207 from a previous project. Location: Eustis, FL I'm familiar with that manufacture and their products of that era. Most of this is from the deck cab, which serves as a hull liner too, having holes drilled in it for hardware, that have lost their bedding and permitted leaking into the hull shell below.
There are many previous posts on this site, that can address much of what you're about to attempt.
As far as making it strong enough to resist slamming loads from running over logs a WOT, you're pretty much out of luck. Additional layers of cloth inside, will help penetration and slamming loads and not require you to fair more then you have to, like you would if applied on the exterior.
I help many people do these types of repairs and I always tell them to spend as little money as possible to get the job done correctly. What typically happens is they get a boat for little or no money and want to fix it up, they do some research and see all these great products they can use to make the boat better than new, the problem is the cost is high for these items. It's different if you've boated for years and know what you want, then getting a hull you like and making the boat into what you want can be a great project. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Lake Champlain, VT Stringer Replacement Materials I ripped out the floor and gas tank of my '88 21' Seebold Eagle sport boat. So my plan is to replace both stringers and the bulkhead, and replace plywood floor with needed blocking underneath.
I planned to stick with wood because the rest of the boat is still original, but I could be talked into a foam or other man-made material.
Location: Eustis, FL Cambara is fairly heavy and dense, with good rot resistance. I wouldn't use fancy woods on this, I would just bulk up the fabric and make sure what ever you use is well encapsulated. The key is make sure the fabric you put on is as thick, if not thicker then what you saw when you first started tearing things out. Location: North Carolina In my opinion the DougFir would be the best all around choice. Mat isn't used with epoxy because it's not necessary as a bulking agent as it is with polyester or vinylester. It's a fun sport boat with a stepped transom and pad keel, the engine (Merc Alpha 260hp) runs like new, everything else is structurally sound, the interior is still in pretty good shape, and it sits on a custom bunker trailer that is still in great shape, so this is a project worth some time and money to get it right. Seebold is an experienced builder of outboard race boats (they dominate the Champ Boat class), so they knew better.
In a way, its nice to see because I am certain I will be able to do a much nicer job on the repair! Location: Eustis, FL Personally, I don't find a need for combo fabrics, like 1708. Log onto West System and System Three web sites and download their user's guides for an overview of techniques. Also agree that the 12oz fabric will be easier to wet out and a good choice in this application. Looking at the pictures above, I'll be glassing both stringers (mostly on one side), replacing the bulkhead and short stringer behind the tank, reinforcing the bulkhead in front of the tank, and I'd like to add a fresh layer of cloth on the sole after its replaced. After actually doing this I'd follow PAR's advise if I were you and use fiberglass cloth, avoiding the mat. Have plenty of disposable gloves, old clothes, old shoes, and work methodically and slowly.


As to how much fabric you need, well it's fairly simple math to add up the square footage and multiple by the number of layers.
My initial thought is to put one layer of 12oz fabric on the new wood to bring it to the same height as the original, then sand the old roving enough to clean it up, and use a fresh layer of 12oz over the whole sole (probably 2 pieces unless I can find a 5' wide cloth).
I have a great Milwaukee 5" orbital sander that will be perfect to freshen up the glass before laying up new cloth. Location: Eustis, FL The sole doesn't need biax, so use a conventional cloth instead of the knitted stuff.
Location: Lake Champlain, VT Update No progress to report on the boat, but I do have some materials coming in.
MIA missinginaction View Public Profile View missinginaction's Gallery Find all posts by missinginaction « HELP needed on How to build new deck for Feeling 39! Location: Hudson River Cost Question Anyone have a solid cost estimate per square foot or meter to lay up fiberglass on a mold?
Location: Canada That would depend entirely on the type of glass and resin being used. Originally Posted by Tim Judge Anyone have a solid cost estimate per square foot or meter to lay up fiberglass on a mold? The objective is to build a one-off fast fishing boat using a MDF frame to give the foam core the shape of the hull, laminating outside first, turning the boat upside up, removing the whole MDF and laminating inside, so that the shell can then be stiffened and the boat completed.
Next, I thought about using fiberglass bi-axial cloth with the usual fiberglass matt for ensured adhesion between layers. One step further on this line of thought would be to substitute some of the glass fibers in the bi-axial cloth by some aramid fibers. Location: AUSTRALIA Hi Paulo, I would be surprised to see any responders to your post say that they have used fibreglass-aramid hybrid cloth with polyester resin for boat construction. It seems strange that you might outlay considerable money for the reinforcement, then save money by using polyester resin which has many inferior properties to epoxy.
The reason for my question is that in Brasil we have some difficulty to get some good boatbuilding epoxy resin and when we can it is imported with so much tax added.
The method I use is to make a frame out of MDF sheets, cut with CNC and assembled, so that the hull is upside down. Once the laminate is finished, we can very carefully turn the boat, remove all MDF and laminate the inside of the foam. I understand that with a change of modulus, one is going to load up before the other;which aint ideal, so how do you use them in conjunction with each other? Location: Ontario E-glass has an elastic modulus of 72 GPa, S-glass is 87 GPa. From what I can gather, the best I should do is stick to what I am used to and have had quite a bit of success with thus far: bi-axial cloths of s-glass and polyester resin.
The aramid hybrid cloths (and any aramid or carbon cloth for that matter) really is a big investment and, by what I have seen here, should be used with epoxy resin only.
I am always looking for improvements through technology adapted to my reality and cost efficiency.
I thought the best way to answer your questions about the Foam over MDF frame one-off construction method would be to explain the entire process with the aid of the 4 images attached to this post.
First we build a bed out of solid timber (the only part of the frame that is re-usable) and set it leveled. Depending on the hull curvature, we can use entire sheets cut to shape to fit the hull, on the areas with less curvature, and strips cut out of the foam sheets, using a circular saw, on the areas with greater curvature. Once the epoxy, in the case of this example, has cured, we can just pull the nails out, plug the wholes and begin the finishing process with some sanding down.
The surface finish is done as usual with some resin mixed with micro balloons, a lot of sanding and a fair dose of passions. I personally like this method because it is possible to play around with the weights of the whole boat and achieve a prototype with the same characteristics of a production boat. I hope this explanation has been clear and that you have been able to understand everything. Location: AUSTRALIA Thanks Paulo, for your clear answers and photos showing the method with the MDF mold. Obviously with your training the mold is far better than I imagined from your initial post, and the receiving cradle is also a necessity.
In your case, as a sailboat man, goes exactly the same process, but then we can turn on the skill nob full on and turn the name of the game into "as light as possible"! This process is an option for production boats, when the customer wishes to run some tests before proceeding with the building and marketing. Today, NEB build projects incorporate the latest thinking in methods and materials, working with advanced composites to build racing and performance cruising yachts, both power and sail. Check back or follow us on Facebook for updates and to be among the first to hear when they announce their opening day! Whether it be a racing boat or a cruising yacht, the finished product of your design, construction, refit or repair project will exceed your expectations – guaranteed. Also at NEB, the Melville Grille – a waterfront restaurant, is well known locally for it’s pub style ambiance and reasonably priced menu.
Tom Rich, Steve Casella, and David MacBain came together in Newport while building 12 meter yachts for Skipper Dennis Conner's 1983 America's Cup Campaign. Their boats have been tried and tested in some of the harshest environments and amongst the toughest racing fleets in the world, finishing in top positions in Championships.
It has sat for 5 years and I picked it up for $100, right now I am figuring it will cost around $2000 to $3000 to fix, hopefully on take a year max.
How much (weight and layers) should I use on the bottom of the hull and on the inside, and how should I lay it. All you need to do add whatever amount of glass you think you need to the inside while your doing the rest of the work.


If it's like most of that age and not seen much care (typical) it will have a rot in all the major wooden components, transom, stringers, sole support structure, moisture filled foam (gas, water, etc.), worn out electrics, etc. The structural elements below are plywood and solid lumber, lightly coated with resin and chopped 'glass, which isn't very water proof.
Epoxy and E 'glass are your best choices for strength and ease of use, by an amateur, working under a shade tree. If you hit a stump or log at the speeds this rig is capable of, you'll have damage, regardless of the amount of goo and cloth you apply (within reason).
You can use enough resin and you've wisely selected a much better one in epoxy, which is far superior to the polyester the factory used.
Again, thinner layers makes for better laminations, so a couple layers of 8 - 10 ounce would be preferred on the sole and more importantly will make fairing and smoothing much easier too.. I believe also that you are right that adhesion and wetting out for kevlar using polyester is suspect. If a simple MDF frame would suffice, then some professionals would already be doing it, as it it would be much cheaper than more conventional molds. The surface of the foam is not really flat but a series of tiny hollow spaces with narrow ridges. Together in 1988 they persuaded ten of the best hands-on boatbuilding experts in the business to join them in starting New England Boatworks. Also, will at least use marine grade plywood on transom and deck but I might use Coosa for the transom. Other types of glass would be stronger and better suited for this type of work and don't get hooked on epoxy, it's great stuff, but will make little or no difference in how well this repair works or lasts. I dug deeper into the boat and it is starting to look worse, I'm really ready to get the motor off and cap to really see what I have but it will be a few weeks before I do that. This coupled with the fact there are no weep holes in this structure, nor any way for the moisture to get out of the boat or drain aft to a transom plug, makes the pieces under the cap rot, once moisture gets in. Though polyester or vinylester can be employed, they aren't as beginner friendly, aren't as water proof nor as strong as epoxy. Avoid the logs, trust me, I've hit them too and they're tough on the lower leg of you engine to say the least, let alone the bottom of your boat. It's rare that a silk purse can be crafted of a sow's ear, so remember what she is and take the family out on the wet, rather then try to make this old gal into something she can't be. If there's a lot of fabric, then the wooden core was just a form, a spacer to separate the fabric skins. What about using vinylester resin with biaxial or triaxial glass, to get a good result for cheaper than an epoxy laminate. I think it will not work, but I suggest you ask a professional boat builder before you go ahead.
Is it just a series of bulkhead hull shapes representing cross sections at intervals from bow to stern? Epoxy is easily the best for adhesion, but filling the surface of the foam with a slurry of Q-cells in epoxy resin is worth while before laminating even if you are using epoxy in the laminating process.
You do mention also that you can use the prototype to make a commercial mold, but would you always have orders for more than one? The runners near the transom looked ok, but looks 100% rotted under the floor in the middle of the boat, thinking I need to rip all the plywood out of the runners too and replace. The factory usually skimps on resin saturation of the wooden elements, not enough fabric and insufficient encapsulation. All of this loving attention will insure your repair will long out live the factory's attempt. If the fabric is relatively thin, then the wooden core is a structural element and needs to be replaced with the same. I don't think that you need kevlar unless the hull is going to be contacting rocks or other hazards. Biax glass is a really good product for the price having used it recently, as well as in the past woven glass, dynel, kevlar, and carbon fibre woven and uni-axial. Theres some type of foam in the middle of the runners too( if the boat sinks?), what should I replace it with?
In Texas, you may need to switch to 209 hardener for use in the warmer months, as I expect your weather is much like mine here in central Florida, and you'll want the extra working time 209 can offer. It sounds like a good idea when you start the job, to make it last forever, the problem is most new boat owners don't know what they want or need when they get that first boat. If you use foam, the fabric thickness has to compensate for the lose of the wooden element integrity. In other words, in the areas where the tabbing will land on the hull shell, take a grinder with a 40 grit wheel and hit all around the area, so fresh, clean hull shell is ready to receive the goo. Using foam sandwich construction even with woven fibreglass only is already going to give a huge weight saving over an equivalent strength single skin glass boat, as found in most commercial hull constructions for fishing boats.
Doesn't the hull collapse outwards once it is turned and the MDF removed, before you have fitted the internal framing? If you really want to use kevlar hybrid cloth then only vinylester or epoxy is recommended. The tensile strength of kevlar is much more valuable on the inside skin however to resist deformation inwards.



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