Boat design tips home,how to make teak wood door,wood boat building videos funny,fiberglass boat repair tools india - New On 2016

Published 17.12.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Sailing Skiff Plans

Location: las vegas Tips For Deck layup I would like to hear opinions on the best method to go about relaminating this deck. Here is a picture of the deck that needs to be laid up and a picture of what it needs to look like. Location: las vegas Should the layup be done from the inside or the out side? So If I am doing the lay up from the outside, working with the first layer against the mold mounted on the uderside of the deck and working outward, What laminate schedule should be used? Should I start with mat and alternate cloth and mat, finnishing with two layers of mat on the very outer layers? Originally Posted by tunnels Make the unside panel out of fibre glass and pre install a core to it instead of using plexiglass to make a former . Can I use the epoxy to bond the fiberglass underside and then use poly on the outer layers? In these Eliminator tunnels, There are not usually any core material in the decks., My original plan was to put a former from under side and layup the hole , then flip the hull over ,and lay up a layer or two over the under side of the deck. Also while on the subject, does any one have any tips for shaping the leftside to match the right?
Sorry for the condition on my part, but sometimes I just need someone draw me a picture before it clicks in my head.
In the middle where the hile is you will have close to 14mm of core the rest is just 9 so when its finished you should be able to stand on and only get a little flexing up and down . If I put the foam all the way out to the edge of the deck, covering it completely, do i bond it with epoxy, then shape? Glass wont stick to any surface thats not sanded if its in anyway shiney it will come off later for sure .
Its foam !!its easy to sand use the H 80 grade divinecell or any of the other foams that are harder . You going to need to Vac it all to get good bonding and make sure its all stuck every where .
Location: australia If it were me, i would grind the top and bottom edges around the cutout section you need to replace for bonding later - go right to the edges of the raised section for ease of fairing. Then remove the temporary backing plate you installed and proceed with bonding the foam core to the inside (youll have to get creative on how to hold it up there). Location: las vegas Attie, I think You are absolutly righ, about keeping it sinple. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.


Once you have established your layout we can fit your plans with quality new office furniture or refurbished office furniture that looks like new but saves you up to 90% off list pricing. Following the above 5 seating capacity guidelines we have created a chart for you to reference relating your room measurements with table size and seating capacity. Location: Mexico, Florida Today and recent decades, monocoque construction is the norm.
Location: Mexico, Florida a crashbox is similar to the automatic kickup daggerboard case i previously posted.
CatBuilder Previous Member   Wow, now this thread is really going somewhere.
Originally Posted by Charly except I am wondering how to keep the leaks out where the lines exit the hull into the cockpit.
Originally Posted by hoytedow Can't you just have the lines cross through the hull above the water line? Maybe it would be simpler and hence better to just bring an uphaul up out of the trunk to a turning block and lead it aft through a bunch of fairleads on the deck- The jib sheets will have to be done that way anyhow, and since the line would be attached to the board at about mid point, the board could be brought up clear out of the water.
I am guessing that a down-haul would not be necessary, since the weight of the board would do all the work when lowering it? Originally Posted by Charly Hey Hoyt, I was thinking about leaks from the deck, into the hull where the line(s) come out. Or, alternatively, you can create a small channel in your dagger board trunk to hold that line and keep the tolerances closer. Location: Windward islands, Caribbean How about a rectangle trunk with a delrin insert at the hull opening which is tapered to 45deg, and the insert is fixed with5200.
The boats we are building (Kurt Hughes) have dagger board crash blocks, which are foam aft of the board. Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada One other detail while we're on the subject - be careful if building to a design that calls for rectangular section trunks with daggerboards that have rectangular section'ed heads with foil sectioned wetted lengths. Location: st simons island ga I like the idea of the delrin insert at the bottom of the trunk and was actually thinking along that line a while back.
Also any ideas on cheap types of paint that will work well and a good place to find a bench seat for the back would be nice as well. Or should I start with woven cloth,alternating cloth and mat and finnishing with two layers of mat? Hal , just curious what type of material are you using for the backing that is shown in your pics ? All you'd have to do is figure out how to keep from squishing the line between the trunk sides and the board.


1708 comes with a light weight csm on one side id put that against the foam and dont scimp on resin make sure you got the right amount of resin !!,cover and use peel ply over the both sides .
As soon as this is wet out, proceed with laminating a single layer of 1708 or similar glass fabric right to the edges, then cover this with peel ply and roll out all the bubbles etc let it cure.
True, there is some extra turbulence when the board is half raised, but you can negate much of that by fitting a profiled cover plate on the outer side. Also you maybe should fill the extra area inside the trunk that is not taken up by the board, to displace any water that might enter. Then, if the rest of the area inside the trunk that is below the waterline was filled with a closed cell foam, that would keep the water out. Fair up the foam core then glass the outside and finish how ever you want to!!, Remember the thicker the core the more ridged it will be , A single layer of 600 gram triaxle glass each side done with epoxy would be heaps strong enough make sure the foam is H 80 grade not lower !!
Once its all hard just rip it off and you will have a good surface to Bog and fill and sand etc . Also I've found that there are less chance of leaks with a rectangular box and more important, weed, twigs etc are less likely to get between board and case and jam the board. You could still leave the area around and above the crashblock open so you could replace it if necessary, accessing it through an inspection port. My trunks are already installed, and have rounded ends, but the boards will still have a lot of play. I just got this sweet little 1966 Wellcraft with a good running 1978 Johnson 70hp Seahorse. I cant find where to hook up the garden hose so I can keep it cool if I start it on my lawn after doing work on the motor. Should the foam core be installed to only stick up from the hole, then sanded or faired out to the shape of the outside of the deck and then layers of glass laid over the whole outer deck? So just for clarification, are saying to make a fiberglass backing , to replace the white former I the pic above, then put a 6mm foam core just inside the cutout, then a 9 mm foam core over the entire deck to the outer edges, then sand and fair, then a layer of 1708 + peel ply, then glass over entire underside?
Would a layer of foam over the entire outside surfac not build the deck up thicker than original?



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