Boat restoration building and hull repair methods,jon boat rental crystal river outfitters,pontoon boat seat drink holders accessories,pontoon boats for sale buford ga events - Try Out

Published 05.12.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Skiff Plans

If water penetrates your epoxy condom and the metal used rusts and is big enough the rust will grow and perhaps split things apart.
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Location: Samogitia Build of small mahogany sailboat with water jet propulsion I began to build a mahogany boat with water jet drive and and own design wingsail. Using AutoCAD I tried to design a boat hull somewhat similar dinghy, yachts and powerboats hulls. My disposal I have a woodworking shop, CNC machining center, stainless steel welding equipment, AutoCAD using experience, joiners tools and experience. Well, I still think I can build this boat and am looking forward to constructive criticism from you. Location: Samogitia Few pictures of boat building process CNC machined and assembled form for machogany boat build. Location: France Man, it's already looking very good - specially when you say you have no experience with boat building. Location: Eustis, FL You don't really think that's anything close, to a reasonable set of sailing lines do you? If honestly I think that for better sailing lines need more boat wide, smaller transom and may be deeper keel. Location: Samogitia More of boat building process Showed that the first layer will not be easy to put correctly on the curved boat hull form.
Trying to resolve the situation with the springy rubber hose pieces pierced with wire hooks.
The second layer of mahogany cross diagonal bands is finished and sanded for outer 2,5 mm layer gluing. Years ago my Palmer 392's were able to push the hull to 18 knots with the tabs on the boat. The hull is like a lobster boat, so how fast should it go, what was it designed to run at you think?
Someone told me if I had an extra 200 HP, like 350HP twin inboards, the boat would do mid to upper 20's? So, if your boat has grown in weight, (or engine lost some power) your boat will struggle to get over the main hump.
So either the power is incorrect the weight is incorrect or there is something on the hulls bottom plate that is creating some drag. The only difference I definitely am aware of from when the boat was able to run faster and today is I left off those trim tabs. I dont run this boat at high speeds, I have always run it slow like 6 to 8 knots, so I dont have a lot of higher speed data in my experience with it.
When I said it did 18 knots, that was about 10 years ago, right after putting the boat in, and I got that speed number from the fish finder paddle wheel, so it could have been faster. Before when going fast, I can recall seeing the transom clear of water, and was able to see the trim tabs. Today , if I push the motors up, the port engine got to 3500 rpm and the starboard to 3000 rpm and that was the max they could do with the hull collapsing in the back, bow way way high and huge wave you could surf ride on and the GPS says 12 knots. One reason I don't try to go fast is to use less fuel, but I do want to keep the boat in good running condition.
Someday I will get in there and adjust the power piston up so it will run richer mixture, or increase the main jet size.
Going from 350 cubes to 392 cubes, the engines would need about 10% more fuel flow I think. What my friend said was to attach stanchions to the inside of the hull that extend up to the level of the rail and spaced about a half meter apart. Should my deck clamp sit off from the hull or should I attach the clamp as separate pieces in between the stanchions? I?ve attached a drawing of what I was told to do, but I am not the best artist, so hopefully it will help. Location: Milwaukee, WI The problem with stanchions is that they are a source of leaks. Location: Milwaukee, WI Will the hull and deck be fiberglassed over or just painted? Location: Orlando You should use the setup Roberts designed into that version of his Spray series for your beams.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Is your naval arquitect friend modifying a Bruce Robert's design, or are you showing a Bruce Roberts only as an example of the type of boat? Originally Posted by gonzo Is your naval arquitect friend modifying a Bruce Robert's design, or are you showing a Bruce Roberts only as an example of the type of boat?

The original owner was going to modify the design of the deck (add a pilot house) but I am going to stay as true to the original design as I can. Location: Enon, Ohio Do you know of the best way to avoid leaks at my stanchions? Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) Looks like big headaches to me. If PAR (ex-member of the forum) was here, he would have been able to quickly assess the state of your hull. Richard (Apex1) might also be able to give you few hints, he is a professional wooden boatbuilder. Location: Dublin,Ireland If you love the boat it will be worth every cent but you have to really love it.
We need a lot more pictures and information before even a very rough estimation about the effort and cost can be placed. Location: eastern United States Do not pass go but spend 200 bucks or more for a Marine Surveyor. Just because the boat is old and is made from wood does NOT make it a restoration project, all it is in reality is a lot of work, a lot of time and money and then you end up with just another wooden boat that very few really want to own, even though they may say so. Keeping a wooden boat in good condition IS a lot of time and effort, but not really a lot of money once it is in good condition, if you do all the work yourself. I am a qualified Shipwright, love wooden boats (believe it or not), so do have a little bit of knowledge regarding them, and this is my opinion. I made a survey (and the boat was finally bought) in December on a almost 50 year old wooden boat which was perfectly sheathed in the mid 90ies.
Dried out wood » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Hull finish on high speed hull. Location: eastern United States The listing show a location of New Hampshire.
If I don't sell it or move it to Florida, then the owner will have no options but to cut it up and trash it (I don't want that to happen).
Location: eastern United States If I sound negative, and thats the way you took it, I fully apologize to you, But understanding some details is not being negative. And another passing thought, this is a forum, where people see and express views differently.
I shared a few thoughts on this forum a couple of years ago, to listen to several nasty and opinionated forum members spew their trash or negative words at me about wooden boats, something that I have spent my lifetime designing and building,and took a long sabatical from it. If I had it in me to own a boat that would cost me between one and two thousand dollars a month to leave moored in a marina here in south Florida only to use it once and awhile for vacations and holidays…and if I had a great big space to work on it here at my home, and if I wanted to spend thousands of hours away from my kids working on the boat and if I wanted to use the college funds for my first two kids for my own dreams, then yes I would be happy to spend the ten grand to move the boat. My wife has pointed out the fact to me that for about ten grand I could buy a little pocket cruiser off of EBay all ready to go and we’d be sailing next weekend. We are looking into all options, as I’d love to build a pocket cruiser out of wood and fiberglass that would be less than 30 feet and still be launched from a trailer.
Location: Hollywood, Florida I am surprised that no one suggested to make a plug out of her. If I had to cut her in half maybe one answer is to make a plug out of her to make a female mold. I stumbled across this post while browsing the forums and to my surprise it was about my boat!!
Location: Port Moody, Canada Restoring 32 and 36 foot ChrisCraft plywood plank boats I am beginning to restore two ChrisCraft plywood plank Hull boats, 36 foot and 32 foot.
Location: ohio boatnut plz tell me how you get on, I am looking a t a 57 ft CC connie right now that looks to have a few back planks, if you could post the cost of the wood and time it tokk to replace them I would be grateful.
Originally Posted by boatnut007 I am beginning to restore two ChrisCraft plywood plank Hull boats, 36 foot and 32 foot. Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada I myself am having some planking problems with my 32' Chris Sedan, found in field with minor dry rot, previous owner cut hole in side for a tube slide for his kids AHHH! The most importantly - the boat will have to be small and beautiful, will have low weight that I can carry it on my car's roof.
I've watched many boats images as shown on the internet and I have not bad joiner experience. EggHarbor built these with a slight hook back aft, so hull does not run perfect straight from mid hull to the stern. Effects on the boat at this juncture are: big squat with a large over all trim - will feel like she is going ballistic - and big waves at the bow and stern and unable to plan. These are usually equipped with the load display, so the crane operator can measure the weight for you. It certainly is possible the motors are not producing their rated power, they are old, they dont smoke and the compression is within the normal range.

I have read a few books on wooden boat construction, and I have not seen one that describes the method that I was told by a friend who is a naval architect. Then I should attach what I think is called the deck clamp or shelf to the stanchions at the deck line. Some designs have them sistered against the frames, others are the frames, some land on deck with a backing plate underneath.
You could cause a world of hurt for yourself if you start changing the way structural pieces are attached or held together.
Nearly all wooden boats are a full time job and like a baby need a lot of care and attention through their hole life,What ever amount of money you intend to spend on her multiply it by 3 and your half way there.
In the last picture it seems there is some fairing putty (or twenty layers of paint?) which cracked. A classical wooden built in fact is the easiest to restore ever and ever again until nothing from the original is left (after 120 years or so). I have done many, many prepurchase surveys for potential buyers, and never charged them fir my time, as most were only 5 minute looks, that is all it really takes to determine if it is worth going any further.
If it is a sheathed hull (most probably not executed perfectly), then leave it for the landfill. There was not one single spot of rot, and the boat was sailed away straight to her new homeport. I have no future plans to spend my idle time on the internet sparing, only sharing some passing thoughts, no different than any other person sharing their concerns on this paritcular issue. I am new at this and welcome any professional advice regarding finishing the hull above and below water line, repairing wood beams that are rotten, how to finish new marine grade plywood decks, where to find materials and equipment etc.
For most of your maintaince needs, any good marine dealer with a large inventory will have most of what you need in stock. Today, I cant get above 12 knots and when I try, the bow rises way up and the stern goes way down, and it throws off a huge wave in the back. Although it was heavy fouled on the props and Malcolm said he could not get more 8 knots from it. I seem to recall it was able to easily do that 12 knot figure, and today it struggles with bow going way high and stern digs down low and throw a huge wave, it did not used to do that at all. When I lay my deck beams now they will be supported 2 inches away from the hull because they are sitting on the deck clamp that is attached to the stanchions.
The clamp should stand away from the hull and capture the frames heads and or stanchions, clamping them in place.
I seem to recall when it sped up there was a fairly smooth speed up with not much attitude change to the boat.
I also find it a bit unsettling when I see someone that expresses a love for something like this, willing to seek advice about cutting it in half to ship it, saving money, and accepting the fact that you will need to put the hull back together, then say what the heck "I will just take a chainsaw to it, if it doesn't sell. One of the reasons that I conveyed any comments was after opening up the link provided , was that I do not understand why you cannot place that boat in the water and float it to Florida after reading the location?
If you are shell shocked at the figure, you do not need to the hull, if this is your only option and you are suffering panic attacks..
I Rubbed the hull with epoxy resin, with six hand-help put fiberglass and dip the cloth by epoxy. I do remember the boat motors back then could only get to 3500 rpm when they were rated for 4000 rpm. The clamps you may have seen in books or other boats may not have been a clamp, but a sheer shelf, which usually does lie against the hull.
I know sometimes I am not the brightest lightbulb sometimes, and my eyes are not the best, so help me if I missed some details. Thats my opinion, and gained from many years of listening to whiners about money spent on boats.
And now it's too late to correct boat hull problems because, sadly but the hull is finished. Very nervous job.Will need to apply extra two layers of fiberglass without for preparing to warnish. If the weight has grown too much you no longer have sufficient power to drive through this hump, or increase in resistance.
I am reasonally sure that the boat got caught on a piling or dock or maybe slammed in a cross wind too unattended. He operates a rescue operation for old hulls and has a website, which I do not have the link right now.

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