Boat trailer lights corrosion 320,how to build a lego jurassic park jeep hire,small fishing boats reviews,houseboats for sale in fort myers florida zip - How to DIY

Published 24.12.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Sailing Skiff Plans

You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. In this section you will find information on legal requirements for trailer lighting, wiring diagrams for 4, 6 & 7-pole systems, as well as some lighting terminology. Try hooking the white wire up to the positive terminal of a battery and the ground to the negative post. Universal trailer wiring color code -- The normal trailer wire colors will be white, brown, green, & yellow.
I usually hook the white ground wire to the metal tongue on the trailer so it is ground,and I let the ball be the ground contact for the lights when the trailer is hooked to the car or truck pulling the trailer.
Be a little cautious about hooking wires to your positive battery terminal until you know for sure where they go. I've done a lot of boat trailering, and always had problems with the ground wires until I found the solution -- RUN A CONTINUOUS GROUND FROM PLUG TO LIGHT. So = easy fix is to run the white ground wire(s) from the trailer's plug (not the tow vehicle's plug, which should run to the vehicle's ground circuit) all the way to the lights attachment bolts or ground wire(s) -- trailers usually have two tail lights and sometimes amber sidelights. Brake lights and directional lights use the same filament in the bulb and the same wire in the harness. It used to go to an auxiliary ground that came out of the car side of the plug and went directly to ground on the car's frame.


Some of the most basic maintenance practices can add years of service to your trailer lighting system. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. If the white wire is a ground wire, and the trailer is grounded to the car through the hitch, and you touch the white wire to the pos terminal, there will be sparks and meltage.
There are no flat four plugs with seven wires so the guys at the auto parts place said just splice the seven wires onto the new four wire plug according to colour. The car side of the plug just has the four wires you'd expect - yellow, green, brown, and white.
One tip is to always unplug the Boat trailer harness from the tow vehicle before launching and loading.
If the wiring harness isn't grounded through the plug you will likely get a sporadic ground through the hitch, causing the lights to flicker, or perhaps no lights at all if the lights are not grounded to the trailer. Yet the trailer side of the plug had two whites and three browns along with one yellow and one green. Doing so will prevent thermo shock failure when a hot bulb comes in contact with cold water. It had a flat four plug but with seven wires running into it from the trailer - a yellow, a green, three browns, and two whites.


So the green went to green, the yellow to yellow, the three browns from the trailer to the single brown on the four wire replacement plug. Another easy maintenance tip is to coat all exposed metal surfaces with dielectric grease, including trailer harness plugs, bulb sockets and contacts. It plugged into a standard flat four on my truck - a Mazda pickup which so far as I know is wired same as a Ford Ranger which is what it essentially is. When I spliced them both to the single white on the replacement plug the old problem of rapid blinking signal lights was still there. Finally, as a safety precaution, always check the trailer lighting for proper operation before heading out on the road. But when I leave off the second white wire on the trailer and only splice the remaining white to the new plug everything seems to work fine and for the first time ever.



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