Building fibreglass boat hull kit,boats for sale or trade in mississippi,sailboats for sale in crystal river fl events,boat design on ipad mini - Review

Published 16.02.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Skiff Plans

I purchased a 20ft half cab boat which the floor had been cut out, after i got home i see the floor was rotten especially at the front where it hadnt been removed yet. I have now discovered that all the stringers are rotten and 90% of them are completely gone. I decided while the floor was out i will remove the back part of the top of boat and im glad i did as the transom was like paper peices and completely rotted out. I think thats all for now and will keep adding photos and details as i go along which hopefully will be of help to someone else. But in saying that we all do silly things from time to time its repairable and will be a totall repair and rebuild . All i need to do it clear out the old stringers thats almost gone anyway, put in new stringers, put in new transom, then new floor, put the coaming back on and bobs my auntie,. All and any bonding to old glass surfaces need to be a minimum of 100 mm so 150 gound surface will give plenty of good bonding .
I have grinded all the stringers down, it appears there is a filling of dark colour fibreglass between the stringers and the gullys in the hull. Wil it be safe to put on that or should i remove that and put some fresh packing in and what should i use if i do?
I will put up some photos tomorrow when i clear the 2ft thick coating of fibredust from everything. When i said packing i did mean like a filler between the the stringer wood and the actual hull.
Im not sure what the bits of wood are called, they are the bits that interlock with the stringers that the floor sits on. What would be the recommended gap between them as im just working out roughly how much wood i need and drawing a rough plan too on the computer. I was also thinking i would cut some holes the same size of conduit in the stringers and first seal them with resin then put in the tube and seal again this way the water has drainage means to the billage drain.. One more question is how high should i make the stringers, i was wanting to make some compartments in he floor so want to calculate the room, i was also thinking of making a custom tank to go under the floor in a sealed compartment with a lid on so i can access if needs be?
I have 2 x 1200x2400mm x 18mm marine ply for the stringers, what would the recommended floor thickness be? As for drainage I was going to cut the corners off where the bulkheads meet the outer side of the stringers with no tube, letting it into the bilge at the transom and another main bilge drainway along the keel for the area between the two stringers. Ok i have purchased the wood and its getting delivered tomorrow which i want to make the stringers and bulkheads over the weekend. Im also picking up a 20kg container of fibreglass resin as i would like to start glassing next week. I thought i would fill the hull with water to the floor level line to see if there was any holes, there was 1 i did and another where the previous person cut the floor out with a circular saw and didnt quite cut through but close enough for it to weep.
Would filling the cut line with resin then a sheet of glass on top after the resin has set be enough? When i filled the boat up with water i saw it had sat on the trailer properly again as when i removed all the rotten stringers it seemed to turn floppy and also the hull seemed not to sit on the trailer properly and pivot side to side. What would be also the best way to join 2 stringers together, please select a number from attached image, personally i think number 1 as number 2 has the ability to slide and move whereas 1 is locked in.
When i make the stringers as the wood will be square do i need to make the bottom in the contour of the gaps where the stringers go? Resin has no guts and the slightest bit of movment it will break just like a glass bottle and you will have a leak .
The other thing that need checking is the bottom of the boat , find a long straight edge of timber or something and check how flat anf straight the bottom is !!!!
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, the bog recipe makes perfect sense now, I knew about the adding a little talc and aerosil at a time and yes absolutely a plastic container. On my boat it looks like I'll have to put a second set of stringers on the outer strakes and a keel board (didn't have them there before nor a keel board). And Stuee, thanks for letting piggyback a little here as I think we both have our work cut out for us So what are you doing with those stringers ?? Foam stringers distribute load better over a wider area so with the right glass layup you get a stiffer bottom with less movement ! Location: East of Atlanta Ga It's a 19 ft SeaBird open runabout, a step down walkway between the seats in the cockpit helm, Volvo 270 drive with a Chrysler Slant 6, I was thinking of changing the motor to either an inline Volvo 4 cyl, also with a 270 drive, that a friend of mine has or look for a V6 that would fit it.
Originally Posted by wooky30014 It's a 19 ft SeaBird open runabout, a step down walkway between the seats in the cockpit helm, Volvo 270 drive with a Chrysler Slant 6, I was thinking of changing the motor to either an inline Volvo 4 cyl, also with a 270 drive, that a friend of mine has or look for a V6 that would fit it.
Oh, the drawings are not to scale and the dark areas in the smaller ones are the bilge drains why dont you consider a out board on a bracket outside and gain some more floor space and its lighter and the boat is going to go faster and be much more usable .
Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, an outboard is a possibility and would allow more walking room, only reason I haven't given it much thought is already having the Volvo, I'll have to look into that, would changing over have any effect on the rated HP of the hull I think max is 165 The best bracket to get would be the one that also incorperates a boarding plateform as well will bring it really up to date and really much more usable and distrubute the loads over the whole transom not just in the middle . Location: East of Atlanta Ga True but it gives me another avenue to check into as far as the power plant, Back to the hull, putting 4 stringers as in your drawing might work better as well for floor support, let me get something straight, other than the stringers nothing else should be glassed to the hull ? You could need to be in the hull for a few hours grinding so its 99% clean and clear of crap so the glass witll stick properly !! Location: East of Atlanta Ga Yea, I tend to measure everything twice then again just before cutting what kind of foam are you talking about vs 2X8 or laminated ply ?
Im happy to see the pic of your boat as it makes me feel im not the only one in this situation. Some of the buldings i was able to work on in Japan were close to 600 years old The old houses are called Minka and they are works of art how they are held together !! The principles described for the construction of small plugs and moulds equally apply to large.
To begin, the frames of the plug are erected in an inverted position on a solid foundation. Likewise, any irregularity which spoils fairness can be removed by grinding or by hand sanding. Naval Architect's agreement and that he has checked the stability of what is virtually a new design.


In boats with deep keels, restricted access makes moulding difficult and split moulds are used. It looks to be in fairly good condition, however quite a bit of the gelcoat has cracked and I think this might have to do with the excessive flex in the fibreglass.
Cheers A couple of timber stringers glassed over completely could do wonders and just behinh the seat a half a ring frame put in after stringers are done . The transom is an integral part of your boat and is critical to its operation and your safety. If you are concerned, call to book your boat in for a fibreglass safety check to determine if there are any problems with your boats fibreglass.
Location: Australia Some photos of the hull cleaned up and ready for the stringers.
Also the photo of the slit where the previous person almost cuts through actually held water in the boat for over 24hrs and only wept but ill still glass over it and put a little matting on it. I have made custom sub boxes for a friends car a bit ago and helped a friend make a fiber box so have a fairly good understanding about glassing and how it goes. Im not doing any glassing till probably end of next week and we have 2 days nextweek of 30+c so it should dryout nicely. When i put a long straight edge under the boat and the top is seems to look sort of ok, but the traider skids seem to be about 40mm away from touching it? I will clean up around the hole as you mentioned about 100mm and glass a new strip over it. I will take some pick of it when i get home with the straight edge on it so you can give your opinion too. Quick look and see loads of strands of glass that never been rolled down when the boat was sprayed with a chopper gun . In your case for sticking things in and coving the corners TALC and AEROSILL mix is completely ok . The consistancy is best when you can turn the container on its side and it just starts to move but dosent slump or try to runout of the container !!
After you make the bog let it sit for a couple of hours before you use it just the make sure both ingreadiance are 100% saturated with resin you will notice its stiffer than when you first mixed it When you put a blob on the surface and then remove it and the surface should have a damp or wet looking patch where the resin is on the surface .
After you have cut and fitted the stringers and its ready to be stuck in make sure you have lots bracing to hold them secure in place lift the stringer out and brush a coat of catalysed resin all over the wood and let it soak in!!
When its hardened a second coat specially the ends and the edges that were cut and shaped .
Ok i think i got what you was saying and when get home will digest it and repeat back for your confirmation.
I will try a chisel out the old filler over the weekend and also need to go over all the hull with the grinder to prep it for the new glass to bond. Im hoping to have this done for xmas, i have all the wood and glass now so just the case of getting it all put together. I do have a 200 yammy to go on the back too, the boat was recommended for a 180hp but the old transom was 15mm and imm replacing with a 18mm so 200 should be fine. Cut the timber for the stringers and by then i will have a revised layup for you stringer system .
Location: East of Atlanta Ga Tunnels, I have a question (still on my learning curve here) the bog recipe you mentioned, I understand the 2 to1 mix of talc and aerosill, then mix the resin in and let it sit in a covered container, hardener is mixed in just as you are about to use it correct ? Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, I have a question (still on my learning curve here) the bog recipe you mentioned, I understand the 2 to1 mix of talc and aerosill, then mix the resin in and let it sit in a covered container, hardener is mixed in just as you are about to use it correct ? Use a smaller conainer big baked bean tin or simular to measure the talc and aerosill into the resin as you are slowly stirring with the paint stirrer !! Its easyer to use some of the premix you just made in another plastic container then add the catalyst and t thoroughly mix ,you will notice it changes color slightly so all needs to be the same colour.
I was thinking about the tank of making a cut out in the keel stringer to leave about 70mm thick and about 1.2m long so i can make a box shape in the floor for the tank to fit in, that way the floor is supporting the tank and not the stringers and i can also access it if any problems. The hull wall is 6mm thick and i will put a 18mm ply + 15mm ply, im guessing that will be more than enough for the motor. I still need a little info for the joining of stringers as i read that scarf joints at crap and a think of the past and now a sister joint is better? Under the stringers where they were and the new ones will be placed they sat inside the strakes !! Strakes are a weak part of any hull bottom and a place that has 3 corners on each strake ,, they bend and work and always get cracks and the glass layers separate and the first place you go looking if the boat has a leak !! I have drawn the extra layers of glass using double bias glass as 100% of the strands will work for you right to the line where it finishs , 200mm each side of the stringers both sides full length , No woven roving should not be used !! Like i said before this post ,coat all the wood with resin and when it hard second coat again specially any end grain .
Dont make the resin go hard to quickly as its needs to soak in and thats what the glass will stick to !!
The glass panels between the strakes and the keel are the ones that take all the pounding and stress when the boat is going .
I hope you took note of the transom thickness i recomeneded and it should have knees down onto the stringers !! The bigger boats we have we always glass in extra glass then fill with high density foam and glass over and then carry on with the rest of the hull . Location: East of Atlanta Ga Tunnels, the bog recipe makes perfect sense now, I knew about the adding a little talc and aerosil at a time and yes absolutely a plastic container. 26 Watch later task Carlson CVX 18 Gel Coat Repair Patching and blendingby FriscoJarretts grp hull. Ive out that the stringers are 18mm and will be using marine ply, what would be the best to seal them with and also i was reading about making sure the wood doesnt touch the fibreglass. The old stringers at the transom was sealed to it which made no sense to me as if water got in it wouldnt have anywhere to go, could i drill a hole big anout to put a tube in and seal around the hole with silicon? I want to put a underground fuel tank in the middle too, can someone give me some tips and ideas? When fibreglassing the stringers how many layers do i need and what about the thickness of the layers as i can only find thickness in GSM.


Mine is torn down and has been on hold for a while, gonna get back to it soon when it cools off a bit outside. Its a old boat so lets go over board a little and you wont ever have to worry about anything for long time to come .
As for the top of them, cured resin on both sides of floor plywood (after cutting to fit) then filler along the bulkheads and tabbed at the outer edges and along the stringers (if this is the wrong way somebody chime in so two of us don't do it wrong). Needs to be ground out gently and glassed properly maybe a small patch but the surface needs to be a 100mm or more all round the hole !!
Recently I got ahold of another boat for the hardtop and windshield and cut the entire cuddy cabin off of it, the rest of it was rotten so it was scrapped. Is best to put down a wide glass pad to help stiffen the hull bottom and for the new stringers to be glassed on top of the new glass with a wide pad all the new framing is on new glass so adhession shouldnt be a problem .old inboards have oil and diesel spills and getting glass to stick is a major and its usually from end to end where its been in the bilge sloshing about for years so clean up is the most important thing other than you breathing . For the keel stringer you have mentioned s 50x75, can you recommend any wood for that as or would i just use 3 pieces of marine ply sandwiched?
Would it make sense to prepare the stringers and a couple of bulkheads then get them all setup and sealed, then temp screw them and glass strip tack them all together so i can lift out after then bog etc and place it all on top.
Single skin construction using the PLUG - MOULD -HULL sequence is the simplest and cheapest method to build a number of boats from the same mould. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
Water will seep inside it through the engine mount bolt holes or through the screw holes from the trim or through any other holes that may be there. Once the water gets inside the transom in what ever way the wood inside starts to rot and fall apart and that's the end of it.
What would be the leniency for the hook or rocker and what problems does this cause later if its too bad? Dont mix the resin so it goes hard quickly beause you are defeating the object if wanting it to soak in to the wood !!.
The resin coats are to seal and help preserve the wood so it will last for long time AND give a good bonding surface for the glass and bog to stick to as you can see from the old bog thats still there its was a sad atempt at sticking the wood down . Figure search locomotive think anything to you In the issue that you are sober or American Samoa ane suspect merely lazy it’s. Solid wood is ok and even better with 5mm ply each side solid had a habit of splitting if you hit anything in the water .
With glass stringers they will last the life time of the boat and never have to ever do them again !!
After looking at your sketch I'd probably be better off putting 4 stringers instead of just the 2 to support the floor. 1 piece of wood would make life easier [nothing in particular just the size wtih the corners rounded so you can glass over easy and not get air bubbles aling the edges > radus about the size of a 5 cent coin . In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). People will drill new holes trying to find strong wood and use lots of sealant in the hope of keeping out the water. To get that amount of bog id use a plascit bag and partly fill with the catalsed bog and use it like a icing bag the cake decoraters use and pip the bog in a even and consistant thickness so it ooozes out from under the wood all the way along both sides then use that and more bog to cove the corner bothsides from end to end . With smaller boats when they sit on the trailer the rollers or bunks are where the strakes are most times ! Plus the surfaces to be glassed over need to be scuffed and ground 99% clean so the new glass will have any kind of a chance of sticking properly and so it will stay and last and not fall off sometime later . After the pics were taken I cut the tops off the stringers to remove all the rotten wood in them. 150x50 , 200x50 , and even 300x50 were the sizes of beams i used on my deck at home just pinned the ends with 100 mm flat headed nail each end !!
Its the type of foam you use and the shape you could make before you glass over it that will give strength and not add a lot odf weight !!
Coving and being able to roll you glass into a radused corner add a lot of strength to what you are doing . If you not taking the stringers to there max height to lay the floors onto its ok but remember you have to support and hold the floor up one way or another !. A shock load is like a really hard slap one when the boat jumps and spray goes out the side a long way . Together with the sails it lifts the hull Hoosier State the windward Common materials are wood often reinforced with fibreglass surgery carbon to get more Is this a weave up If not does the terminal. Like I said before I'm still in the planning stages of this since putting the project on hold. Like I said I'm open to suggestion on this project and just in the planning stages right now, I've done a little bit of glass work but nothing major like this before.
As the boat sits at rest the crack may stay closed but as the boat is moving in the water it is under different pressures and may open to let the water in. The transom needs to be opened up, the old rotten wood removed, all parts cleaned and sealed and then a new transom built.
Problem However well you polish ampere GRP Glass re enforced fictile boat after a few years it leave start to picture signs of algae and operating room tannic By demarcation 99 of the grp hull bitter which grp hull.
So as you are powering through the water it is entering into your boat and causing considerable damage. Occurs which Hoosier State work is a subset of completely fiberglass hulls is cosmetic not structural.
Thanks for your help with this, want to do it right as I can ONCE I'll get a pic of the cuddy in the morning, measurements I've taken say it should fit and I have not cut any on the 'Bird's deck cap yet. Its a part of the boat gets wet and stays wet vertually forever or untill the floor gets ripped out to replace rotten and wet wood .



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