How to design a steel boat insulation,houseboat building kits,electric boat rentals newport beach coupon 40 - Downloads 2016

Published 21.07.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

Location: cornfields Steel dinghies Many people seem to believe that steel doesn't work as well for small boats as for larger ones. If you build a small dinghy, couldn't you just throw the whole thing in the galvanizing tub? Also, the thinner you go, the less elastic stiffness you would have, first wave you go through will plonk your hull panels inward, and steel likes to deform permanently.
For an open boat that you would like to drag up a beach you really don't want it to be heavy. Location: Trondheim, NORWAY In large boats the global stiffness of the hull regarded as a beam is the dimensional factor, therefore ships are built in steel. Location: cornfields yokebutt: If you build a small dinghy, couldn't you just throw the whole thing in the galvanizing tub? So I guess it's hard to manufacture a small welder in oxy-acetylene or whatever they use these days. Location: Trondheim, NORWAY A small, say 18 feet or 5-6m, boat will need maybe 20m2 meters of sheet material. Location: Maryland Little steel dinghies are pretty common around shipyards. Location: Germany Ian Nicholson's book 'Small Steel Craft' has some information about steel dingys - building and design tips - he proposes a really nice pram-style.
I have been trying to 'collect' designs and photos for small steel boats - the material and the size interests me too. Check out Al Sorensen and his 'mini tugboats' - he used tempering on light-guage steel to keep the weight down. Location: British Columbia, Canada Essentially steel is stronger than aluminum, it's stiffer too. Location: The Netherlands Dutch waters are full of steel boats of al shapes and sizes, from about 3 meters. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I live on the river of Danube (largest river in Europe), so I can travel to Istambul, Greece, Italy, Croatia etc. I was thinking to build full displacement vessel in steel (8-9 meters) with 20 - 30 inboard HP engine, but then I met Mr. I have experince with displacement vessels, but this is the first time I saw plans for DORY type of hull. My question is: do you think this boat (I mean this type of hull) is capable for cruising (for long distance like crosing the North Sea from Amsterdam to London for instance), do you think it is safe? Location: BL dory Jeff Spira is building this boat - and I think this type of hull is known by that - only for seas. Location: The Netherlands Zenman, You are on the good path but I think that you should build your boat few meters longer. You plan to do quite a long passages so economical fuel consumption will be important issue. Can someone give me a rough idea on the thickness of steel hulls for sailing yachts that are 30', 40', 50' & 60' long?
And while on the subject, what percentage could a person reduce the thickness of the steel if they went from mild to corten, or monel? Location: Milwaukee, WI It largely depends on the hull shape and framing design. Location: South Africa As Gonzo mentioned, it depends largely on design and framing to an extent.
Corten in my view is over rated for small boat building and except for a bit of more stiffness and negligible amount of copper in it (barnacle prevention?) well over priced. Monel on the other hand is an excellent material and is largely used in the manufacturing of petrol tanks but very costly. Mildsteel, shotblasted and painted with a compatible epoxy paint system with airless spray unit, will be as good, if not better than any of the above at an affordable price. Location: Air Ronge, SK, Canada If they all looked like the one I have a link to then.
And if anyone else out there would like to post what they have used that would be great to.
Location: Milwaukee, WI That boat has an average plating for a cruising boat. Location: Port Orchard, Washington, USA Also, as Wynand's data alludes to, for small steel boats plating is more often selected for fabrication and welding ease than for absolute minimum strength and weight. A vessel is nothing but a bunch of opinions and compromises held together by the faith of the builders and engineers that they did it correctly. Location: UK In the USA you also have the option of plates in 'gauge' sizes. Many of my designs where recalculated to be built in 10 gauge in the USA with the framing adjusted accordingly. Any adjustment can be made just as easily for hard chine as well as round bilge - you have to consider the whole structure as an entity.
In fact, it is very easy to build a fair hull if one uses patience and correct welding procedures. Not only unnecessary, but also mustn't be done without consideration of the stability implications!
Location: Milwaukee, WI Corrosion on stainless steel These bolts came out of a 1972 Swan. Location: Milwaukee, WI Unless something horrible happened to the boat, toe rails are usually above the waterline.
Location: Sweden Would you have any idea about what SS quality it?s all about, Gonzo?
Michael: what is your disagreement with my statement that this is crevice corrosion with maybe electrolysis too? Structural steel plate is available just minutes away from the yard, but I am told that 3mm marine grade plate will probably have to be imported especially. Originally Posted by Nick.K Some say use only marine grade plate and others that structural steel plate is fine.
Steel, or rather commonly used steel on boats, buildings, bridges etc, are all basic plain carbon steel, generally referred to as mild steel.

The navigating officers on board a vessel in ice must be aware of the type of steel used in the construction of their ship.
I'm using Jotun 2 part epoxy primer over the weld-through primer and it sticks like **** to a blanket. Many select the higher tensile steels, like AH etc, because for a given load, the plate thickness is less because the yeild stress, or allowable design stress limit is higher, ie saving weight. Dean Smith Previous Member   how fortunate they are in Holland where they have so many ship building sections in the bestest steel. The J235, JR & S235 are grades that are sold as construction steel and grade A is the same steel that has been approved by Lloyds for ship use. I was planning to blast after completion of the welding and use Jota mastic direct on the blasted surface by airless spray. You can use S235 or other for shipbuilding, but, the caveat being the steel must be taken away to be independently tested to verify its properties. Originally Posted by Nick.K Can you recommend a concise source of information on the web about what these grades mean? Bow thruster location » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Is it possible to build in steel if not originally designed for steel? Location: British Columbia I did almost all the detailing on my current boat in the water.
You can easily hook up an alternator run off your main engine if you want to do it out in some peaceful ,remote anchorage.
Tom , if you get the chance , go ahead and post the photos from the back cover of my book on this site. Location: British Columbia I've seen photos from Norwegian shipyards ,of welders on tracks that fill a V while a ceramic brick slides up while the weld is still molten , leaving a smooth surface behind, flush with the surounding metal, needing no grinding whatever. Location: California Glad I didnt chime in on the ceramic strips, not knowing anything about them I would be in the minus LOL. Originally Posted by Landlubber Lazy is too good to be permanently banned, he was just sent to the corner to think for a while Ok thanks, was hoping it was not permanent. Location: British Columbia I't would appear to a bad economic decision to hire someone to build a boat , who advocates finding the longest and most tedious way to build a boat and who opposes inovation.
Location: British Columbia I't would appear to be a bad economic decision to hire someone to build a boat , who advocates finding the longest and most tedious way to build a boat and who opposes inovation. I guess the thing to remember is that the other boats you are comparing this one to are significantly bigger. The other thing that comes to mind is that an open boat is often flooded (rain, waves etc). These factors wont affect your craft obviously, as you wont be at anchor, or tied up to a wharf as much as some boats - but the extra weight will be a potential safety problem if you have to row or paddle against adverse currents waves or wind. An interesting build experiment, and great work of art, but I dont feel it provides a better solution to the small boat experience. Location: British Columbia You could use hot galvanized steel, and touch up the chines with zinc primer. Location: Cincinnati Id be more than happy to post pics of the boat when it is done. You make some very valid points, but one has to take into account where I live and the bodies of water I will be rowing in. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa steel boat Going through an old reproduction of a 1902 Sears Roebuck catalog, I found a 14' galvanized steel duck hunting boat.
Its been just over a year now since I started this project, and its due time for some progress. I have to say I didnt think I would be so excited to be putting this in the water for the first time.
Location: SF bay I'd wear a life-jacket when testing a steel-boat with no floation. Plus, the turbulence created by the sinking object is suppose to hamper any effort to swim your way out, like a airplanes wings becoming useless in a stall. Location: Cincinnati True I should have worn a life jacket, I didn't really plan on taking the boat off the shore, but the excitement got to me. Maybe I’ll start a thread about small steel boats with a lots of photographs when I find a time.
Location: Cincinnati I heard that the Netherlands had a lot of small steel boats. Originally Posted by hobo_hut … I looked all over for inspiration but couldn't find any. Location: Great Lakes I don't believe that having the boat boat hot dipped galvanized would hurt it - certainly wouldn't melt the steel or the welds. Originally Posted by hobo_hut ? problem with deformation ? a work boat aesthetic? Brazing ? not sure how strong the joint would be? I often think of building a dory type boat later on. Location: British Columbia Tig would be much slower , but far more controlable in terms of distortion.
1964 Grumman Aluminum 35' sloop » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post What is this metal sheet for? DOWNLOAD FREE BOAT BUILDING BOOK Food and Agriculture Organization Small sword fishing boats. We also have built a Murray Isles designed 5.5 m open skiff, spritsail yawl, very nice boat and perfect for raids and camping out.
A well engineered 18' boat made from steel will also be as light as a typical welded aluminum boat, but you have to be very particular about how it's designed. I want to build economical, dry and safe vessel for crusing for a couple or three, max four persons. I want to cruise with 7-8 KNOTS, so it is going to be very slow, but I suppose that is in common with trawelers!? Experiment with models, and with the buoyancy contained n a wheelhouse it should be easy to make it self righting.
I think this boat is good for the rivers 'cause it's doubleended, so it gives you good wind protection, but this is also good characteristic for seas!?
I have an idea for my first cruise: from Belgrade (where I live) to Delt of Danube and over the Black Sea (about 30-40 hours on the open sea) to Istambul, and than back Istambul-Constanca (over the channel to Danube again) - Belgrade.
The boat would be used for circumnavigation so must be able to stand up to anything nature throws it's way.

Other problem is thicknesses available - thinnest is 4.5mm which put it out of contention for a lot of boats.
Sometimes it's better to find out what steels are available and at what cost from your steel stock holder, plus what can be best worked by your prospective yard and then do the scantlings using the best materials availble for that project. It sits quite nicely between 3 and 4mm, which is actually a jump of 33% in shell plate weight. I suspect, correct me if I am wrong, that what they really mean is approved, or Class approved plate. The shell expansion plan will be on board and it will show clearly the steel qualities used. I don't want to have to do it twice - or replace the deck due to rust sometime in the future.
But of course it depends, like most things, what the structure is designed to whithstand, forces wise that is, and hence is this sufficient? Perhaps this: whichever way you decide to go, take care you use a ductile (high elongation) steel. This steel boat is only 10ft boat, and not much wider than a canoe, so the weight differential is more significant.
A wooden boat of this size will still float while full of water, while a steel boat will sink like a stone. The momentum of a heavy hull pushed against say, a jetty by waves for several hours, can often do the heavy boat a lot more damage.
Our waters are full of thousands and thousands of them, but most of them are not so nicely shaped as yours. Where Can I bribe Online Boat Plans Hoosier State United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland USA Australia.
When you examine all the designs, look at the ideas, know how much steel ist a 'craftable' material - then you realise that the sky's the limit.
Additional expenses for more hull material would be quickly compensated by savings in the fuel costs. I understand that there are many variables such as how many people is it going to carry, is it going to have engine and how much fuel, etc. And you need to weld this steel with a low hydrogen welding electrode (E-7018) that is very temperamental (hot box etc etc)and need a serious welding machine with an OCV of at least 70, putting it out of the home builder scope.
Using thinner but stronger material has no advantages but is much more expensive in both purchasing price and handling. This means, that the plate has been made to conform to certain standards used in shipbuilding. If a ship has no low temperature steel, it is important to avoid impacts with hard ice when the air temperatures are very low. That's because in the inauspicious case of impact it will allow for some plastic deformation before a crack in the hull structure opens.
In this regard, perhaps, there would be a real value in ceramic strips when wishing to weld both sides of a joint that is relatively inaccessible from one side.
While ceramics can handle greater temperatures than the parent metal, they do not have the same capacity to conduct electricity and can be pushed from the parent metal by the force of the wire. You could put substantial flotation in a steel boat, but that takes out a lot of usefull room. There is a story and illustrations on the internet of a macgregor26 (lightish fibreglass boat) riding at anchor next to the sunken mast of a much heavier boat after a cyclone in SE Asia.
They have an extra 6 feet of waterline to make paddling easier, but if you are tired and are blown out to sea in one, you will have real problems getting back to safety.
But even that is too heavy to move around alone, you need two people to get it up the beach. Just when someone says that, for instance, a guage of steel can not be welded - I find someone who has done it.
Material handling, preparation and finishing are more expensive, and labour is the highest cost in any job these days. They tolerate rubbing and bumping into the sometimes rough wharf sides or other boats like no other material. It won’t be much more expensive to build, just a little bit more steel for the hull, engine and everything else stays the same.
You also see some free ferro-oxide near the bolt head, indicating a possible galvanic potential along the bolt length, also supporting the thought of differing oxygen concentration in the moisture at varying levels.
It is a lot less hassle to get the plate blasted & a holding prime coat on before building.
On the decks I would not be to conserned and would just use the local hot rolled mild steel. Northwestern nautical Design Stock & custom yacht and small boat designs for plans for cold shaped wood plywood traditional wood aluminum and blade construction.
Strategic shipboard soldier Designs for gang boats solve and patrol boats and support free steel work boat design software. Longer boat with finer entrance would have much easier time going upstream, especially in the places where river flows fast.
FISHING & WORKBOAT custom boat plans passenger boats sauceboat kits for brand with FREE a dinghy project rigging boat plans positioning of anodes how to build We design and nuzzle the package victimization free steel work boat design software. The only real difference being that the process to make the steel, the methods, traceability and QA of the whole mill has been witnessed and approved by Class, as part of their QA audit. Another advantage of the smaller boat is that it's easier to pull it out of the water and store dry, reducing the corrosion issue.
Because of the weight of the material you can't build high performance planing dinghy from steel, but for heavier, workboat types it works very well. Thus to differentiate this steel from any other, it is Grade A, with an LR or DNV stamp and cert.

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