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Published 28.06.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wood Boat Plans

There are a number of both smaller and larger scales than the scales included in this list which I have intentionally left out simply because I haven’t ever built anything in them. Almost all of the buildings I make tend to fall in the 15mm to 28mm range, and most of those at the upper 28mm end. 25mm Ratio 1:72- Overall this is probably the most common modeling scale ever, and one we used to pillage most for accessories to go with our Citadel and Ral Partha figures – hey not all D&D adventures actually happen in a dungeon… sometimes we needed a town or village too! For an example, I’m not going to build a Viking longhouse or Hebridean black house without researching how they were built, and what they look like.  I need to know what materials they used so I can make something that looks appropriate. When I am building houses for a model railway layout, I’m going to try and make the building fit in with the time period of the design.  Model Railway scratch builders pay a phenomenal amount of attention to detail and accuracy, far more so than most roleplayers and wargamers I know. Admittedly I get a lot more freedom in building for a wargame table than I do in an historically accurate Roman fortress, or feudal Japanese settlement, but hopefully you get the point.
With that in mind I thought it might be helpful to look at some of the ways I go about researching for some of the models I’ve been asked to make, and those I choose to make for myself.
These are great to visit in person because you get to see everyone’s best work up close, and get to talk to the people making them so you get a much better insight into how they were made, where the inspiration came from, how long they take, what sort of effort is involved, what sort of materials they used, and so on.
Whilst not always historically accurate, movie sets often look fantastic and can be a great way to see the period pieces you want to build.  There are hundreds of good Middle Age and Fantasy themed movies to take inspiration from – how many civil war era movies are there for example? How many good Fantasy movies?  Movies set in the early to mid 20th century set movies are good for model railway building inspiration. Depending upon your need for accuracy you might need to research further to make sure the movies didn’t take liberties on the set designs, but if you are just building for the general look of something, movies are one of my favorite resources. Some of my favorite movies for inspiration include the Lord of the Rings movies, The Patriot (Mel Gibson, not Steven Segal!), Game of Thrones, Sharpe, The Tudors, and pretty much anything set in any period i scratch build models for. Open Air Museums’ such as Beamish and Vindolanda provide a good reference for period pieces that have been carefully rebuilt or restored back tot heir original design. In the event you have absolutely no access to real versions of the buildings and structures you want to build there is always the Ultimate Resource… the Internet! There are also an abundance of websites making and selling buildings and building templates, these are also a great place to visit and see what they are doing – you can get a lot of ideas this way.
Wikipedia is a great resource to learn about time periods, building materials, building styles and so on, but not always the best place to visit for a visual reference. Websites and Forums are another great resource on the internet for inspiration and help for scratch building research – there are a lot of people out in the world doing this kind of thing, and many of them publish their work on their own websites and belong to forums where people discuss what they are working on, how they are building them, where the ideas came from, what materials they are using, and everything else you can imagine about the topics of scratch-building and painting scale models.
Once you have a good handle on these basics, you will be able to make far more intricate and complicated scale model buildings of your own, regardless of what end-use you put them to. I’ve used this particular model design on a wargame table, as part of a desktop roleplay setup, and once for a model railroad layout, with very little difference between them.  Just use your imagination with the details and away you go! First of all, round up everything you will need for the entire model at the beginning, just makes things easier. For this example, I am building a 1 story shack suitable for a gold miners shack on a gold rush diorama, or as part of a Wild West town, or even just a simple woodcutters house in the woods.
You can change the intended use of a model like this through the additional details, paint work, and accessories added around the model or to the base.
Templates are a good idea if you plan to make more than one of these – either to practice with, or because you want several to use. This is so that the peak slopes will end smoothly at the wall joins – if you glue them with the peak inside the front and back you will get a gap when you put the roof on. Cut out one or two square sections that fit between the glued walls and use them to provide a stable square shape.
You can use triangle shapes in opposite corners too – two by the base and two where the front and back meet the peaks sides, on opposite corners to the base. I tend to start by cutting my balsa wood sheets into manageable lengths, somewhere between 12 and 18 inches, depending on the size of the building i am working on. Taking a sharp craft knife or scalpel, i shave little pieces off both edges of one side of the strip. When we come to paint the building, these edges will be highlighted to add detail and depth to our building. If you prefer, you can leave the wood unshaved, and this will give more of a natural or rural look when finished. For the wooden shack our walls will be entirely made of wood – so we are basically going to cut the strips of wood to fit along all four sides of the template. So, on this model, the door is going to be approximately 30mm tall and 20mm wide, with a wooden frame around it. Remember that your uprights are gong to measure 30mm, and your top crossbar is going to measure 30mm also – this is so that the cross bar goes over both uprights. As you get more advanced you can start experimenting on the doors – using thinner planks of wood, making paneled doors, adding hinges and door handles, and so on.

Match sticks can work well for this, simply cut one to the height of the window frame and glue it directly down the middle. Then cut one for the horizontal bar, and cut it so it fits in on either side of the vertical bar.
Once the door and window frames are glued in place, you can start planking around the rest of the walls.
When you are dealing with the corners, the best result is to make the planks flush with the board already glued on, rather than with the corner of the foam board.
This should sit nicely on your house, and cover the entire peak from side-to-side and right down to the front and back walls.
Then, starting from the bottom edge of the roof card, you will attach them in rows, with each successive row just overlapping the one below it. You’ll need to stagger each row so that the tiles lay evenly over the gap between tiles in the row beneath. You will end up either cutting half tiles to use along the edges, or simply attach full tiles and trim them after.
You can make this process a little less fiddly and speed it up by cutting 12mm wide strips as long as your roof is wide. Now you only have to deal with gluing strips down instead of individual tiles, but this does tend to make the roof look a little more uniform. To cover the peak you can take a strip of card approximately 20mm – 25mm thick and fold it in half over the peak.
As you get more advanced you can build tiles peaks, but that goes beyond what I am trying to teach you in this tutorial.
At this point, if you have been building along with the steps above, you have a fully built wooden shack! Now that you know what’s involved in the basic building, you can consider personalizing it, or making it more suitable for a particular purpose.
For a gold miners shack you might want to add a porch, or lean-to for tools, maybes a stove pipe sticking out of the roof.
If your shack is going to be in a Wild West town setting you might add a horse bar out front. For a woodcutters hut, you may want to make the roofing out of thatch or turf instead of tiles. The details you want to add are entirely up to you and should help make the model more suitable for whatever purpose you are making it for. If you have read any of my scale model building tutorials you may see a familiar pattern in the steps I take – regardless of the type of building, I follow pretty much the same steps every time.
The first step in my process is typically answering a bunch of questions in order to determine what, specifically, I am going to make. After I have an idea for what I am going to build, I will often go online and do some research – looking for details on how a certain building was constructed, what materials were used, the purpose of the building, and so on. After I have the structure cut out – walls and roof – I’ll glue the basic framework together. Now that I have done my research, have an idea how I want my finished model to look, and have a basic framework constructed to work with, I’ll start adding the ‘siding’. The siding step tends to involve periods of drying (glue, plaster, etc) so while I have those gaps I’ll either have a second model building going, or I will move on and start the roof. By this point I have my basic building constructed, and walls and roof materials added (note: the roof won’t be attached at this point yet).
Though out this process the decision for what the end use of the building is determines how much detail I want to add, how fine the paintwork will be and how much finishing (see below) I will do to the piece.
Priming – A coat or two or primer to cover all the raw materials, and to help the paint adhere better (sometimes I’ll touch the prime coat up with a brush to make sure I get into all the little gaps and crevices in the model). Highlights – Area’s such as thatch or tile roofs, wood work, doors, etc will all get color added through drybrushing techniques, applied in increasingly lighter shades and tones to make the detail really stand out and give the model more character and depth.
Details – items like window meshing, door hinges and handles etc require a little more care and attention. For wargaming and roleplay I might do the same as for the model railways, or I may add a small flat surround so I can add details like a garden, a path, grass or some other detail that helps it blend into the landscape or table it will be used on.
If the piece is being developed as a display model of some sort it will get a nice wooden plinth base that is bigger enough than the building to add some little details similar to the base above. And that’s about it for my thought process and the steps I follow making my scale model buildings, and you can see this process taking place in most of the tutorials. Spend anytime talking to people who invest their time into any form of modeling and you’ll find a wide range of reasons for why people get into building their own models. As modelers grow in experience, we tend to branch out more – kits are great for getting started, but sooner or later we tend to want to personalize our layouts and designs.

Our model train board was revisited and improved upon over the years as we got better at building scenery!
So, whether you just like to build for yourself to show off your talents, or you like spending time with friends and family learning new techniques or sharing the load, or you simply like getting into the details and making a replica that’s perfect, or even if you scratch build purely to have the better display or layout than your colleagues… there are lots of reasons to get into building your own models and showing off just how creative you can get! Are you already into modeling and scratch-building?  What got you into it, do you remember? When it comes to making, or building, models of any kind there is a wide range of options available for you, from buying complete fully-made, painted and constructed diorama’s to buying individual model kits and building them yourself, to making your own models from raw materials, or from scratch. I do occasional use kit parts and manufactured details when i am making replica buildings and the like, just because sometimes it looks better that way, or i might have a limited amount of time or budget for a project. The kind of things you might see on a battlefield, out in the countryside, or from a view from a train window as you take a train ride.
Where do i begin on that question?!  Every model probably has a similar toolbox full of tools, but here is what i use most often. Steel Ruler – Going hand-in-hand with the knives above, a steel rule is essential if you want to cut straight and not ruin your ruler!
Other Cutters – Scissors, wire cutters, guillotine (for cutting sections and strips of card and paper). You get a surprising amount more detail from the tiny addition in size, and the small scale still allows you to build quite a large layout.
I don’t have a lot of access to these type of buildings – the Romans never made it over here, and even if the Vikings did they left nothing to see! And welcome to this simple wooden shack scratch building tutorial.  The intent of this tutorial is to show you some of the basic techniques I use in almost all of my scale model buildings.
The easiest way I know to get the door frame on in the right place is to glue a couple of strips of your walls in place first, then building the frame against those planks. This includes enough overhang to cover the wood we just applied for the walls, especially important on the sides. Depending on the look you want for your shack you can do this out of either cardboard sheets, or thin 1mm balsa wood strips. I thought it might make an interesting read to lay out the steps I follow and give some insight to the process. I look for inspiration for how the building should look, what size it should be, what have others made along these lines, so I can try and make something better. At the very least I will make a record of the measurements I used, usually by drawing the template out on paper. This really only applies to the solid parts of the structure – if I am working on a more complicated model some of the framework comes in later. By siding I just mean whatever the building is constructed of – wooden planks, wattle & daub, plaster, stone, brick walls, etc.
For model railways, you won’t typically have a base as the model will be placed directly into the landscape, and additional features added directly to the model. The difference here is that the model railway building isn’t likely to move very often, but in wargame and roleplay situations it may need to be moved often. A garden path, flower or vegetable garden, a small wall, or just a grassy area around the house – small details that really help finish a piece for display.
Well, possibly, but there are still more things you can do depending on the usage of the model. But even so, there are some awesome replica villages of American history and museums full of resources – you will just need to look up what is around where you live and make the time to go visit them.
If I intend to build something more than once I’ll typically transfer that template design to card and cut it out such that all I need to do the next time is trace around the template and cut.
This might include things like window shutters, lead lattice for windows, window bars, door details such as a handle, or wooden bars across the door, a store sign, and so on. This step includes things like applying a protective coat of varnish (often done before basing), adding a background surround of some sort to make the piece more of a 3d picture than a stand alone ornament. In some cases I might add trees and shrubs, animals, and even people to create more of a diorama than a single stand-alone piece. With the recommended throws it's the perfect sports model with looks, rolls, flicks and spins being well within its repertoire. Experienced pilots will want to increase the throws further and, when fitted with a powerful engine at the top end of the recommended range, the sky really is the limit!

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