Marine exhaust system diagram unlabeled,speed boat rides ft lauderdale fl,boat for sale lake havasu city events - 2016 Feature

Published 11.10.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

This page offers some advice and tips for installation and maintenance of marine heat exchangers. What extra maintenance is required if I add freshwater cooling to one previously operated on raw water?
A fresh, treated water cooling system is well recognized as an effective way to preserve your engine. This system provides the maximum protection to your engine from the ill effects of direct raw water cooling. In a Half System (Block Only) closed cooling system, the treated fresh water is circulated through the engine block, thermostat, expansion tank, heat exchanger and circulation pump. This system does not provide the same degree of protection for your engine as a FULL (Block and Manifold) closed cooling system, but is generally easier to install, less expensive, and may be the only option available if your engine's pump capacity, electronic control system, or other factors prevent a FULL system from being safely installed on a particular engine or boat. Spring is an exciting time, when boat owners begin to think seriously about getting their boats back in regular use again. If your boat was properly winterized (as it surely was) then there will be no concern about freezing damage. Replace the antifreeze based on the engine manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring it is the correct mixture for complete protection in your climate. Drain raw water from any incoming raw water filter, any heater if separate from the antifreeze circuit, any water pump, any oil, gear, transmission or power-steering coolers. Remove the raw water supply hose at the lowest point which most easily drains the above accessories. First, let’s be clear: the best time to install freshwater cooling is when the engine is brand new. However, if you have an engine with some time on it in raw water cooled mode, adding fresh water cooling will either arrest or slow further deterioration – which is better for the engine than continued operation with raw water cooling.
If you plan a short life for your engine and you don’t care about operating efficiency – there is nothing wrong with raw water cooling. Flushing is good, but will just reduce the problems associated with raw water, not eliminate them. Rust, scale and any loose deposits in your engine coolant passages are continually flushed out of the system through the exhaust when operated on raw water.
Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. By routing raw water, with its included salt, mud, marine organisms and debris into the corrosion resistant, long lasting heat exchanger system instead of the coolant passages in your engine block, there are fewer places for accumulation of deposits, and the raw water is never exposed to the high temperatures of the block—which can lead to undesirable deposition. One way to help insure that your upcoming season will be enjoyable and trouble-free is to make a thorough check of your engine cooling system before taking off on that first trip. If for any reason there is some possibility of freezing damage, the system should be pressure tested on both the raw water and the fresh water loops to insure that there are no leaks in the system.
Hoses should be flexible and free of cracks; fittings should have no tell-tale streaks indicating leaks. Clean and inspect the trash basket in the strainer to insure that it fits properly and water will flow freely. Any water in the oil is a sign of a leak in its respective heat exchanger, and you will want to eliminate the leak and replace the oil before the engine is run. Inspect a wet exhaust for water discharge through the exhaust ports, and look for fitting and end cap leaks while the engine is running. Because of the way ice forms it can break parts even if the part is only partly full of water. Adding a freshwater cooling system will not repair the damage already existing from operation with raw water, and will require some additional maintenance as your engine flushes out rust and scale which have built up on the internal cooling passages. Hard deposits will not be fully dislodged by flushing, even when salt dissolving treatments are added to the flushing water.

When a freshwater system (also called a closed cooling system) is installed, there is nowhere for these materials to go, so they will circulate until they find a quiet corner somewhere to stop.
It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know.
You are invited to join our public Boat Repair Forum to seek assistance from other members. The block is in contact with treated fresh water only, normally including anti-freeze and rust inhibitors, which preserve and protect your valuable engine.
Raw water which has removed heat from the engine through the heat exchanger is then injected into the exhaust elbow to quench the exhaust.
Raw water which has removed heat from the engine through the heat exchanger is then injected into the exhaust manifold, from which it flows to the exhaust elbow to quench the exhaust.
If there has been a loss of fluid, it means that there is probably a leak in the system somewhere, and it would be a good idea to locate it. While this does not test the functioning of the switch (so you should not get overconfident about your system) it will test the rest of the system for continuity and function of the audible alarm. You have to remove the impeller to inspect it, and many boaters skip the inspection part and just replace the impeller every year as a routine - since you have to do all of the work just to inspect it. You might as well service the seacock while you are in the bilge and exercising the valve anyway.
Unless you are really good with engines you may want to have the engine professionally checked if you found water in the oil, as a little water here can do a lot of damage in a short time.
The primary winterization task is to insure that there is no water which may freeze in parts which do not permit sufficient expansion. Ultimately, whether the extension of life of your engine is worth the cost of the freshwater cooling system will depend on the condition of the engine. Even if you only run your boat in fresh water lakes, that water contains biologic organisms and probably suspended solids (mud, sand and sediment).
In order to reduce the deposition problem (see #2 above) raw water cooled engines are generally fitted with a lower temperature thermostat than the engine was designed for.
At least one source has reported that most flushing systems are inadequate to insure full cooling during the flushing cycle, because a garden hose (about 5 gpm max) just can’t supply as much water as the engine is designed to receive (frequently 10 to 20 gpm or more). Usually that will be in the heat exchanger, on the shell side, which is difficult to clean. Hot water leaves the engine via a fitting on the exhaust cover on the engine, that water then runs through a fuel cooler, and then down to that T, where part of it goes out the tell tale.
The flow of water comes out of the exhaust cover, flows through the fuel cooler, then goes to a splitter. A closed cooling system provides a foundation for installing cabin and water heating systems using heat from your engine.
If you did not winterize, then your system may need to have the coolant level topped up and checked for specific gravity with a hydrometer.
Make sure you inspect the end caps for contour and cracks and replace the neoprene gaskets before putting the boat back in service. Be sure there are no impeller parts lodged in the hoses or elsewhere in the system as they will eventually move to an inconvenient place and restrict water flow. This generally means that all raw water should be removed from the system, whether introduced by running in fresh water, or flushing the raw water circuit.
If you replace with an extended-life coolant product you can extend the replacement intervals to 3 to 5 years. If the engine ever operates in shallow water (like at a boat ramp) it will pick up even more sediment.

This reduces engine efficiency, which decreases with decreasing temperature (the hotter the better, within its design limits). This can leave coolant passages located high in the engine and far from the water pump dry – thoroughly cementing any deposits located there. If the rust, scale or deposits are abrasive, they will (in effect) be sandblasting your cooling system as they circulate – cleaning out the system (and possibly causing erosion of cooling system parts) but adding to the load of debris that is circulating. If you remove the hose that goes to the fitting on the exhaust cover o the engine, and blow that fitting out.
If the specific gravity is off-spec (about 1.075 at 60F) or if the coolant has been in the system for two or more years, then it should be replaced.
The raw water pump impeller should be replaced every two years or whenever it is found to be worn or have damaged blades.
The rust forms by oxidation of the engine block and exhaust manifolds from the inside (so you can’t see it).
This material tends to stick to the hot metal of the block and manifold, and will not be fully removed with further operation or vigorous flushing (although these help). This stuff must be removed, which requires several cycles of draining and flushing of the coolant (antifreeze) side of the system (including the heat exchanger) until it is clean. When was the last time the cooling system was serviced with a new water pump impeller and thermostat? This rust is flushed out with the water going to the exhaust, constantly exposing fresh metal for further rusting. Long story short for me I took it to the dealer, they remove the engine and say they would not warranty it because I had aftermarket struts in the car.
I got a bit cofused because these also have a splitter in there to in order to have a tap for a water pressure gauge, so on some of these there are actually 2 splitters in there.
These deposits insulate the engine from the cooling water, reducing the effectiveness of the cooling water, create hot spots in the engine and restrict the flow of cooling water. A boat fitted with a fresh water cooling system will hold its resale value far better than one which is direct cooled with raw water.
The sacrificial zinc anodes frequently spall, and there will probably be zinc bits in the exchanger which should be cleaned out. The engine was bone stock, the struts were actually Subaru struts, just the japnese spec struts that i had shipped over from Japan.
You can enjoy your boating experience more knowing that your engine is protected with a quality ORCA Marine Cooling System. We now produce a "Tune-Up" kit with replacement gaskets, end caps, zinc and mounting bolt plus a soft clean-out rod to make it easy to keep these parts in good working order. Note that if you use a clean-out rod, it should be softer than the copper tubes, and should not be used to dislodge materials which are firmly stuck to the tube surface, as this could damage the tubes. The rod will assist in cleaning our bits of grass, zinc, shells, and similar materials which are just lodged in the tubes or on the face of a tubesheet.
If you get little water out of the exhaust cover fitting, then either that fitting is clogged, or you do have a cooling problem. And then blow into the fitting on the lower cowl from the outside it, and make sure that is not clogged. If need be, simply pull the hose from the cowl fitting and start the engine and see if you get a stronger water flow out of it or not.
But if your running this on the garden hose, put the boat in the water and see if it overheats or not. I work for tips so I do want to make sure you are happy with me and my answer before doing the rating.

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