Mirror dinghy rigging plan,inflatable boat for sale victoria,pontoon boats with built in grills - You Shoud Know

Published 28.09.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Simple Boat Plans

Originally Posted by Ozducati Can someone let me know the dimension of the carlin shown on the second image, please? Accuracy may also be slightly compromised by the 'asymptote' (been waiting to use that since high school). Anyway, by my measurement it is 560mm from the tip that meets the deck beam to the tip that meets the inwale and the doubler, if you get what I mean. Originally Posted by ICLYM Hi Looks like new Foredeck, Transom, repairs to underside of hull near transom, I think I also need to lift cockpit floor and look at state of interior frames plate case etc.
Hopefully, you will be encouraged by the fact (revealed in this forum) that you are not alone. The Mirror 16 was designed to be easy for amateurs to build from a pre-cut kit (there was no other way).
Rob's plans open up a new range of possibilities including building direct from plans, making kits and building from them, or restoring an 'old girl' with reference to precise dimensions. It's certainly a possibility worth considering that you could keep the original trailer, sails and rigging, and build a new hull.
Location: Lymington UK Mirror 10, Mirror 16 Hi thanks but I think I have a job to do !!
We started down this path with a failed resoration (named Cinderella, as in Cinderella shall go to the ball!).
Being of simpler construction (no under floor webs) Snow White was a good practice run for Lulubelle. Mine is the white with the finished deck, it really does justice to the classical nature of the boat. Originally Posted by dream458 the other option is to use 6mm ply and cut less out of them in the first place, reduce the number of parts needed to assemble the substructure. Originally Posted by thudpucker I'm wondering if those thin ribs being enclosed in a space that might be damp, warm with no air circulating, didnt weaken the ribs like the beginnins of rot?
Having observed the consequences we are careful to drain the bilges after sailing, to keep her under cover to prevent rainwater ingress, and to open the ports we have added to the floor, so that she can dry out easily and quickly.
First was Autocad which I used to create a few 2D sketches showing the minimum and maximum material sizes based on the Mirror 16 Class Measurement Form.
I create a text file using the cartesian co-ordinates of the thru-points of the splines and import that into Freeship as marker lines. This seems to work well, although I'm not happy with the result as there are a number of curves that can fit thru the designated points, so I have tweaked the curves based on photos. The best would be to sit a hull on some stands on a flat floor and use a plumb-bob, chalk and rule to take points from the hull.
Location: Brisbane, Australia I received the following email, and M16 picture from Barrie Skelcher of Slaughden Sailing Club in the UK. I appreciate holes must be cut at the centreline in the bottom of the frame to allow for passage of water inside the hull but again it is important to seal the end grain. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. If you wish to advertise on our site, please contact the advertising department and inform them on what pages and in what positions and in what form would like to see your ad. Also, I would suggest finishing the corners of the floor web apertures with quite a big radius. Originally Posted by Ozducati I have made a bit of progress in between running around over the weekend. The deadline for the plant shutdown (and my redundancy) looks like it's going to be March 31st, so I should have plenty of time on my hands to build the model.
I impressed myself (but then again, I am easily impressed) with the centreboard slot dimension. I was thinking about your concerns regarding rot, and I remember when I was younger that one of my uncles had a pergola post that was starting to rot where the beam for the rafters was set into it. Location: Brisbane, Australia I received this email from the senior member of the Mirror 16 fleet in the US. Bob Just as well the development of plans is progressing, so that some of these boats can get new hulls.

I found blsiters popping up all over the hull this summer, so I popped them this winter and drained them, then proceeded to peel most of the fiberglass off of the wood. Location: Brisbane, Australia Hi Katrina, Great to have you contributing to this thread. Fasten the patch firmly to the outside with a few screws (maybe even nuts and bolts if you can get your hand inside). When the first lot of glue is set, glue the patch in place and screw through into the battens.
Location: Lawrence, Kansas Thanks for the advice, I hadn't thought to put stiffeners behind it, that is a fantastic idea. One note, howevever, and it is what prompted my earlier question about the floor ribs, is that a rectangular shape is the worst shape to cut out of a rib, and also the worst shape to cut and replace structural pieces (such as the hull) of the boat. Rod tells me that the cut-outs in the floor webs of his model is because he 'hasn't put rads on anything yet'. My wife asked me to mention that, if you have to strip old fibreglass, a heat gun is a great help. Location: Brisbane, Australia Another point of possibly more general interest. A year or so back Lulubelle suffered a small but severe 'puncture wound' (due to a sharp rock hidden beneath the surface of a muddy beach) in the outer skin in a spot where I could not reach from inside.. A bit of epoxy glue around the hole and around the patch and I was able to manipulate it sideways through the oval hole, rotate it 90 degrees, then use the nails to pull it into the hole from the inside until the backing piece stopped against the inside of the hull. Under the corners of the deck where it meets the gunwales is a piece of timber which the Building Instructions refer to as a 'carlin'.
I now have the hull shape defined in CAD and am currently adding in ribs the ribs, bulkhead and other detail. The materials back then (Aerodux glue came with the kit) was nowhere near as strong and durable as modern epoxy.
Very likely it would produce a better result, with less effort, than going through the restoration process. Best bet for replacement would be to 'detach' the old panel as cleanly as possible and use it as a template for the new one. She was a lovely little boat to sail, but too small for two ageing adults to sail comfortably. After seeing all the grief that people are having with cracked ribs I was thinking of doubling the thickness of the web in this area by laminating a second thickness of 4mm ply. When I fixed all my broken ribs, I think I used 6mm ply with some rough circles cut out of them I absolutely agree with this.
A series of splines were then drawn through the measurement points to create the edges of the hull. Once the hull is defined in Freeship I export the undeveloped panels, hull edges, hull surfaces, and stations back into Autocad. Of the six(?) versions I have created so far there has always been something that doesn't match up with the original Mirror Hull, even though it would pass a Class Measurement.
The width of the centreboard case slot is 25mm (in the centreboard case assembly that's above the floor). Ideally I would like to walk away from Fisher & Paykel and straight into another job, but the way the economy is looking at the moment I don't think that that will be the case.
We first learned that a number of the webs in the centerboard area were cracked and broken. I was looking at your plans, and I was wondering if you were going to round out the corners of the sub-floor ribs, and if not your reason for doing so. It is very strange, it appears as though the glass was never wetted out with epoxy in the first place because what I am peeling off looks like dry cloth.
Make it a neat (preferably rectangular) shape that generously covers the area to be patched. I wasn't sure how to clamp the final piece into place, and screwing it into somthing that was clamped is a great idea. The corners of a rectangle create large stress concentrations which will break much sooner under much less load than a curved corner, which is why most aircraft and boat ribs have circular cutouts.

It would be much better to make it a rectangle (or at least a quadrilateral) with rounded corners.
I might try it, although you should see how easy it pulled off, especially when it was still damp. The white hull with the lacquered deck is what I envisage for mine when it comes time to build it.
I spent some time a few weeks ago down on the Brisbane River where 3 Mirror 16s met up for a day out, and I took the opportunity to meet them at the boat ramp before they set off got a few more measurements from the hulls. As you can see the end that fits to the inwale also butts up against the double that backs up the chain plate. If someone was prepared to completely disassemble their Mirror it would make my job a lot easier (and more accurate).
I took my engineering team out for a roast lunch at the Alex Hills hotel (only $6.50 when you buy a pot) just for a bit of a break. Needless to say none of my guys are over-enthusiastic about the offer and upper management can't understand why no-one wants to go. After three years of removing rotted or delaminated plywood, we abandoned her to a practice bonfire by the local fire brigade. When I fixed all my broken ribs, I think I used 6mm ply with some rough circles cut out of them and glued them to the original rib. It is unfornutuate, and I have a rather large hole in the bottom of the hull just forward of the centerboard casing that I need to cut out and fix. It is much more difficult now that it is cold outside and everything has become very brittle.
I have been worked with building small boats using CNC cut ply panels before and I think the structure of the 16 might well lend itself to this process. When I finally get this model built I reckon you and I should get together and do a bit of a comparison to your boat so we can see where I have gone wrong. We have finished work for the year and will be starting back on the 5th of Jan, so I might get the chance to catch up with you (kids are on hols too so depends on what fits in with their entertainment schedule). Mirror 10s are still a very popular class (particularly in Ireland I believe) and I have a wonderful picture, on the font cover of an Australian Sailing magazine, showing 92 Mirror 10s lined up for the start of their world champs in Hobart Tasmania some years ago. Coupled with standing on the centre board to right the boat after a capsize, and possibly hitting sand-bars or rocks. If the model turns out looking half decent the Wooden Boat Club can have it if you think it could be used to fill an empty space on a shelf somewhere. Maybe you could slosh some around inside Lulubelle, or throw a bag of salt around in there. After two season of sailing, may granddaughter discovered some bubbles under the fiberglass cloth covering the hull.
Any advice from anyone who has cut pieces out of the hull and put them back would be greatly appreciated because I am really not sure how to go about doing that.
I think I will make some makeshift stringers where the patch is to go and secure them with clamps and epoxy before putting the patch in. That way I will have something moderately structural to attach the patch to when the time comes. There should still be limber holes in all of the floor webs to allow drainage through the drain ports in the transom.
I know some M16 owners fit the limber holes in the two solid webs with bungs which they can remove via an access port if necessary.
She competed in a centerboard class this past season at the local Yacht Club in Kansas in a mixed group using the Portsmouth handicap numbers and won first place for the season.

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