Plywood boat floor replacement materials,pontoon boat rental ft lauderdale fl events,free wooden motor boat plans download - Try Out

Published 18.02.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Boat Building Kits

Update May 2005 - I've had the marine plywood for the floor and the carpet for awhile, just not had any time (or motivation) to work on the boat. Update May 26, 2008 - After staring at the boat all winter taking up space in the garage, and coming to the realization that I'll probably never use the boat even if I finished it, I put the boat on Ebay. Location: Variable, North America Diab H80 for flooring I'm re-doing the floors AGAIN on my boat.
Here is a super quick snapshot of the cabin floor along with some drawing that I thought might be adequate support. Location: Tasmania,Australia If you are wearing out plywood floors, FG doesnt appear to be the answer. H80 is just lightweight plywood, and once you break the FG skin, it will turn to talcum powder under load, where at least Plywood is fairly robust for a decent depth. Aluminum plate would not only add a LOT of weight, but it doesn't solve the substrate issue. Location: Milwaukee, WI You'll be hard put to find a material that is lighter for its weight than wood.
The whole thing (once installed) will be topcoated with Rhino liner (or similar) so I'm not concerned about chafing as much as I am the substrate just rotting away if water intrusion happens.

The other thing that will chap my arse is that if I spend hundreds of dollars on a textured liner and the wood rots in 5 years I'll be seriously ticked. I very much value your opinions, but putting wood back in this boat for me is just something I can't stomach. Location: Tasmania,Australia Thanks for the details, I can picture your situation a bit better now. It wont help much with longevity by the sounds of it, as your problem is breakdown of the surface. My first impression for the least expensive longterm solution is to use plywood, but this time top it off with very thin checkerplate aluminium (2-3 mm)- not the heavy stuff. If you built a Diab sandwich, you are going to need something really tough on top anyway, like aluminium or even steel. The only other option, that you would want to get some engineering analysis done first, is to use steel alone.
Can you (or anyone) help me out with what the manufacturers specs mean so I can understand them? Originally Posted by curtis73 Can you (or anyone) help me out with what the manufacturers specs mean so I can understand them?

The two combined are almost impossible to wear through Is used iindustrial aplications over concrete to stop wear and have seen floor that have been down for a long time , like years ! When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I would paint the plywood with one of the commercial bitumus waterproof coatings, and then apply the aluminium on it while still tacky, with as few through fastenings as possible.
You could even do a sandwich of aluminium (thicker on top, light gauge on the bottom) epoxied or glued to the H80, like they do in planes and warship superstructure.
Weight is a big issue as you said, and I have no idea what effect on your stability, but it wouldnt last 2 decades. It can be experimentally determined from the slope of a stress-strain curve created during tensile tests conducted on a sample of the material.

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