Plywood river boat plans kits,how to make a lego pokeball youtube,small cruising boat plans free - Plans Download

Published 26.02.2016 | Author : admin | Category : Diy Sailboat Plans

Sailing is my passion since I was 9 years old, my home water is the North Sea Coast and it's Wattenmeer. My interest for designing sailboats is pure hobby and I have (until now) no real ambition to make a buisiness out of it. It all started when I looked at design drawings and felt that this or that detail should be modified to fit my taste or needs. Until now I have drawn 4 designs and two (and a half, my own) of them have been built (succesfully). My design philosophy is the Kiss principle (keep it stupid simple) and I always try to find the most simple and cost-effective solution, but that has to be useful and pleasent to the eye. When I saw the seagoing Egret of Reuel Parker inside the Sharpie Book my thinking started to devellop the Egret to a boat that would be a more useful design and would be able to sail in our waters.
The keel will be made from standart steel U-profiles shaped into a streamlined form and covered with plate material.
When I do the stability analysis I will know how much ballast there has to be and if the draft can be reduced by lifting the case a little bit inside the boat. Michel I meant to say I don't want a keel on my boat like the one you're designing for yours.
If you push sideways on a keel, it puts a lot of force on the connection between the keel and the the hull.
Originally Posted by troy2000 I meant to say I don't want a keel on my boat like the one you're designing for yours. As your sharpie is intended to sail on inland waters you will not need positive stability for 120° heeling. I could probably go into Photoshop or Picasa and tweak the pictures--or better yet, take some more.
Originally Posted by troy2000 I found my camera this morning; it was in one of my toolboxes. The Summer is nearing it's end and there is some time to go back to the drawing desk and do something different than sailing, working and beaching.
Centers of flotation, wheight, lateral resistence and sail area are balanced to each other and a stability calcuation (90°) shows that it will need 290 kg of ballast in the keel for having 40kg upwards at the mast top. Freeboard increased overall by 2,5cm (1'') to be 67cm (~2'2'') at the lowest Point midships.
Location: California It's a pleasure to see what you're doing there, Michel. Another notice is that the boat is surprisely strong, I think because of relatively low ratio of free plywood surface to chine logs, stiffeners, gunwales and frames.
So, the boat is really useful in various conditions (we checked her out during 20 km long raft in various water areas including wild state creek, regulated state creek, small man made lagoon and big river).
Idaho's earliest boats were canoes hollowed out from huge trees, probably cottonwood or cedar.
In fact, the Nez Perce helped the Corps of Discovery construct canoes on the Clearwater, with which they traveled all the way to the Pacific ocean. In the late 1800s, boatmen began plying Idaho rivers with wooden scows, patterned after European boats.

About 75 years ago a group of boatmen started running Idaho's rivers just for the fun of it. These boatmen learned to point the back of the boat into the waves and row away from whatever they were trying to avoid. I'am 44 years old and I'am working as an instructor for social disadvataged kids (no, I'am no know-it-all teacher). But the design process is what I like, solving problems and try to bring out a boat that looks and sails well.
As I'am a experienced sailor and a successful racer in particular (local hero only ), I always have an eye on a good performance, even in cruising designs.
The North Sea has large flat water tidal areas (Wattenmeer) as well as difficult offshore conditions (again with strong currents). So here are some views of my model with rounded corner posts on the cabin, and a temporary cabin top taped on. I took them against a dark background, and the contrast washed out the details of the boat.
But I don't want to take the time, because my son and I are starting on a 16-foot flat bottom canoe this morning. Turn that into a positive thing with a tradional punt that you push through the shallow water with a pole.
In one of Phil Bolger's books he says the real trick of designing a successful boat is to get your design into the hands of the right user, and so it is with Wojtek.
After more of less a strong push of a pair of paddles she smoothly went a long distance on calm water. She got a few strong hits and scrapes from wooden, concrete and stone objects, but generally everything is OK, external chine logs gave good protection to the sides in extremal conditions. I think with her low cost and quick building process she is a very good proposition not only for beginners but for advanced adventurers as well (hey don't look at me! Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. Led by Doc Frazier, they eventually tried their luck on the rapids of the Middle Fork of the Salmon. Part of it is that the wooden boat is so unforgiving, that you figure the person running it has a higher level of skill than anyone.
Beside this I'am running a part time business for boatbuilding, speciallised a little in building foils and other parts for dinghies and beachcats. The bottom will be very strong (18 mm) and of course there will be some stiffeners across it (sorry, don't know the correct term) to take the loads from the keel and there is a longitudial keelson. Many people have the fear that the steel centerboard will bend outside the case when grounding, but this is a pure theoretical fear, in practise this is no problem.
Sorry for beeing inconvinient and to say it again, but I think a marked waterline on your model would help you to devellop your details.
There's also a strange kink at the back of the cabin, where I didn't fair the mizzenmast notch down properly before taping the top on. Hopefully right in time to do some rc-sailing when the real boats will be out of the water for winter.

I think this sort of boat has a long history and the similar shape in Chapelle's great book AMERICAN SMALL SAILING CRAFT goes back to at least the 1700's. During our cruise the crew (Wojtek Baginski is in the stern in most of these photos and his boating buddy Wojtek Holnicki in the bow) was often forced to gather on the stern first, and next on the bow (after boat's center has passed over the bar) to jump over a tree or a branch laying in the water, not stopping the punt. Looks like rowing will be successful as well, when an oarsman will take a seat at the center of the boat, and will pull the boat with the pair of 7 foot oars (we have chosen a pair of heavy ones for the Vistula , because of possible wind and waves acting on her open area against the boat). In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).
Any time you have a wooden boat on the river, boatman gather around and look at it with admiration and a little bit of envy. I want to take this wonderful concept of the coastal sharpie and bring it into the 21 century. It might make the boat easier to build although something like Polepunt is easy to do in almost any case.
As for using a pole, it's really amazing and effective power, but needs a bit of experience. All in all, two or three days of ugly work with a big flex and the help of a professional welder. In my tries to draw the chine into the water flow to increase sailing performance, it became obvious that my sharpie will become a relative wide transom. Actually Chapelle shows the shape of the old one as more elaborate than this one but I'm pretty sure this one is in no way harmed in function by the simplicity of its shape. I kept the bottom dead flat in the center 7' with no frames there so that you might walk the center as you push the pole. The boat is narrow at 30" inside on the bottom and I'm hoping that will make it stable enough to stand in.
But such a light boat will be dominated by your weight and you will need to be careful how you stand.
I've also shown rowlock sockets on the drawing and this might suit as a rowing boat using a removable seat. And this might be very suitable for floating streams with paddles, a substitute for an aluminum canoe. The ends (which are identical) are swept way upward for good lines at slow speed and won't support any weight fore and aft.
The only chance for a motor would be with an electric with remote steering so yo can keep your weight forward for proper trim. I've written words like that for almost all my arm powered boats and I still get regular photos of those boats with motor plates mounted on the stern. But I never get photos of those boats under power most likely because the owner tried it just once and never again after it tried to stand on its stern when the motor was fired up.

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