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Published 05.01.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailing Skiff Plans

But the flat-bottom skiffs tend to porpoise and pound, and I might occasionally tow a skier or want to cruise sort of fast, while a 40' deadrise is a bit much for me.
So, I have been looking for shoal draft, chop handling, and ability to cruise comfortably on plane. Then I started drawing and -surprise- same up with a 20ft skiff (is there a prize for the billionth design?).
I realize it might not perform better than other S+G designs (at best) but to me the look is better, with a couple extra panels. Location: maine Regardless of what she'll do motoring, I saw nothing in the lines to prevent sailing rather fast with the right rig. Location: Pontevedra, Spain You'll have to keep that forefoot out of the water when planning, or it may induce directional instability, in my opinion. I have only crude guesses about trim under power at this stage, but with an outboard, it should not be hard to have the bow trim up.
Now all I have to do is turn the aft stations to true monohedron and I would have something I could buy on any street corner-the homogenized skiff!
Location: Sydney I think your second design looks much better - no need for that pointed forefoot in the first one, and that wedge did look like the drag would outweight the benefits.
Location: Virginia, US The transom is not warped as you can see from the (unfaired) views here. BWD View Public Profile View BWD's Gallery Find all posts by BWD « >small jet boat design help? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I was wondering if I could get a bit of feedback, or a few questions I have answered about building a small ( 4' x 11') flat bottom boat.
If I make no seats in the boat, will just the epoxy coating and the 'but joints' with cloth be strong enough? From a structural stand point, not having a midship thwart and a bow piece (breast hook, foredeck or thwart) the sides of the boat will likely flop around a good bit. It would be possible to have a small thwart at each end of the boat with reinforced sheer clamp and maybe a topside stringer, to provide the open layout you desire. Location: maine A 4 foot wide boat as described would have quite a wide bottom, and it's strength (to resist transverse flexing) would be achieved by having a reasonable amount of rocker or making the seats full boxes for flotation and a set of transverse beams. In your case, wanting to have a clear open area, you can't just modify an existing plan without help from someone knowledgable. PAR will, I'm sure, provide you with a good set of plans or modify to suit, but by all means maske sure the bottom is rigid enough and that the connection to the sides is well braced.
In the future, I may purchase plans and modify them to suit my own design, but for this first project, I think I'm going to just go with this basic design and consider purchasing plans in the future for something a bit more complex, even though I have questions about this 'simple' design! One of the goals of this little project is to just keep it as simple and cheap as possible for now. In the attached picture, there is the rough outline and dimensions, as well as the proposed 'skeleton' of the boat made from 2x2s. I would be putting cloth and epoxy on the outside and inside of all seams, but should the entire boat surface be coated as well, or just the seams? Again, the boat will be used for shallow, calm water, and will have rub strips along the underside for added stability and for protection from rocks etc. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada At the very least put a bit of curvature in the bottom as it will help stiffen it and prevent oil-canning. A bit of a curve will do the same thing for the sides: they do not have to come all the way in to a point at the bow. It is actually easier to do it this way than the way you have sketched: ply bends easily and it will save you have to make joints that are strong enough and waterproof. Use seats as frames, and hide flotation in them Three cavities, both bow and stern shelves and the center thwart (seat).
Location: Ontario Hey, It's been awhile, and I thought I'd update this thread with what I ended up doing.


First, thank you to everyone who gave their advice and input in this thread, it was much appreciated, and much needed.
I decided not to put seats in it, because I want the space for carrying things I have in it, but I included a 2x2 across the top and bottom near the middle of the boat.
I have more pictures I could show, but it seems that I'm at my size limit here with the 3 pics I've already posted in this thread. Anyways, I wanted to come back to say thanks, and also to show you guys what I ended up doing.
As an additional consideration, if this application is going well, I would like to use these foils on a heavier boat. Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) If I was making a hydrofoil boat for my personal use, I believe I'd go for some surface-piercing wing setup. As far as a crash on the rear foils, I think the boat would just squat down momentarily and quickly regain lift. As far as the lower and higher CL go, for a fixed foil this will be adjusted by angle of attack or incidence control.
Location: Lake Champlain We are going to end up with 6 water tight compartments each with a deck access and independent bilge pump.
Originally Posted by indianbayjoe General epoxy composite boat construction allows us to screw everything together and then remove the screws and fill each hole with epoxy if we want. Location: Lake Champlain Well we were going to start getting things together but with the outside temps so low i can't get the temp much over 35 in the shop right now. Originally Posted by Dave-Fethiye Probably the ballast can be 3 of the said barrells filled with concrete. I thought that you mat be interested in these photos that I took of two floating platforms. Maybe this is of some use to Madman's plans - afterall you could put anything on these platforms. Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Thanks Dave, that's just what I'm looking for. Location: Arlington, WA-USA here are some free plans for a plywood cat, easy to build from local materials. In one case I have made J-hooks in another I laminated clamps from glass, carbon fibers and kevlar.
Location: denmark ha ha ha, of course it would never talk, it was made in china. Location: Pacific NW North America Fiberglass with resin weighs about 96lbs a cubic foot. Maybe needs a touch more flare -tough issue for me ( - I'm from Va but went to school in NC ).
So I was thinking originally if warped it might run flat enough to be good if I stay out of nastier waves. You could make one from your own design and it would perform to some expectations, but you could also get a set of plans (I have low cost plans for just the boat you describe) that will optimize the shapes, keep it simple to build and answer your questions about how thick things need to be, plus where to precisely put them. I've spent a bit of time reading the forum and looking at other 'jon boat' plans on the net, and I've modified my initial design.
Does this plan look stable enough now, or are the few 'extra' transverse beams that I've now included overkill since it will be epoxied? The entire underside would be epoxied of course, but does the entire inside need it as well, or just the seams? Curvature can make the ply act as if it was twice as thick, without the weight and cost, and it will go faster and smoother. If you make the front plate (pram transom) slope a bit the boat won't come to an abrupt stop when you run into a wave form a bigger boat (see PDRacer again). Well, I realized that my square design that I had initially come up with wasn't going to cut it, so I took the advice to make some curves in it.
I used a lot of epoxy on the bottom, more than I should have, but it was my inexperience at 'fiberglassing' that caused me to use so much.


It would be simple, cheap, would have no moving parts which could break or jam due to corrosion or marine growth, would be self-regulating in vertical flight level and would give a heel stabilization thanks to dihedral angle. At some point, as your boat rises up from the water, your prop might end up working very close to the water surface and start aerating, reving up and losing thrust. I will power it with any outboard but will probably tow it to its ancorage site with my boat. If they had a show where you could sit in bleachers eating hot dogs and nachos and watch a bunch of boats like that doing wheelies and crushing smaller boats by running over them. 2 panels are joined on a keel profile and the sides are bent in a cylindrical curve as the stem and stern are fastened adding a curve in the for and aft direction. I like the near-plumb stem, so kept that in spite of the lightness of the boat, since I'm not looking to go in big water.
Hoping it might run 20-25kts with a 70hp OB, cut small steep chop easily off plane, and if lucky run comfortably at 15 or so.
I plan to put narrow 'runners' on the bottom of the boat for extra stability and protection from rocks etc. I know it dries very hard, but I want to know if the way I'm picturing doing it will be ok.
An added benefit would be better performance from the little outboard and improved maneuverability as a result of the shapes employed in the design. Most ply boats have a stiffening member along the top (sheer) of the side planks which is called a gunnel. The backlash would be a drag increase due to reduction of aspect ratio - due to surface-piercing aerating tips.
There will be access throughout the entire internal compartments for repair and internal glassing once the deck is put on although it might be the bottom that is the last thing to go on if we build it upside down.
And then a big crane barge would come out with a crane attachment that looked like the neck and head of a plesiosaurus which would pick up the crushed boats and completely demolish them. A outside deck jig is put over the sheer to determine and hold the shape while building.The Gougeon book on boat construction has building and designing information for this fast, light build technique. Feel over my head trying to integrate elemants here, but grateful for any constructive feedback. I would round the forefoot a bit, but easier to do in reality than in CAD, so it shows sharp in renderings. You may find that it will be fairly easy to twist it without any bulkheads to give it rigidity so a couple of knees from side to bottom might be in order to help with this. The holes are just the right size to allow water in but restrict it's movement out of the bag.
4 hp is just on the border of enough to get you planning if the boat is light enough but I bet not so internal framing is not so necessary. From what you described, the fiberglass skin of the foil will see that stress so it will need to be designed accordingly. I use this tool for many jobs , particularly light fasteners that may snap off if over torqued.
Large boats can be built this way, the Gougeons are still winning races with a trimaran they built in the 1970's. If you take a 450g strand mat with resin you add nearly 1kg (avoid it if you can) per square meter. The barrels will flood when you put the raft in the water and provide your ballast free of charge. The 2" holes will be small enough to restrict the flow of water out of the barrels when it's moving. The benefit is when you drydock the raft the barrels just drain and you don't have to haul a couple tonnes of concrete out of the water.



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