Yole boat plans aluminum,small boat drawings 9gag,coleman canoe repair kits suppliers - Plans On 2016

Published 13.01.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailing Skiff Plans

I'm sure it will be easier to recruit new members to the Scottish Coastal Rowing Project as a result.
Have you got news for us?If what you're doing is like the things you read about here - please write and tell us what you're up to.
Classic Sailor is a new magazine about traditional and classic boats from ex-Classic Boat editor Dan Houston and colleagues that promises rather more coverage of the traditional craft around our coast. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Follow me on TwitterLooking for something?This is a busy weblog, and what you're looking for is probably still here - just a little way down the list now. Our Faversham-based friend Alan Thorne can help with boatbuilding projects - constructing to plans in very tidy stitch-and-glue or more traditional techniques.
Hey Mark.I have a set of plans that I bought from Iain late last year that I may or may not be using.
Mark Giegel wrote: Is there any appreciable difference is sailing ability between the two ?Yes. Hi James and Allison,We all like the same thing, so Ia€™d consider this a discussion amoung friends, and I stand to be corrected and this is academic, but I hope worthy of thought.I'm not talking about what people build now or just recently, but back then centuries ago.
Hi Mark,The planks were produced by splitting green oak to generate quarter sawn stock for planking. Duckflat have just had their Autumn Build School and one of the hulls built in 9 days was a Tirrik. These pages are mainly about boats which are light enough for the crew to carry up a beach, but we can't resist this photo of Patrice at the helm of Caredig, a Ness Yole beautifully reinterpreted by Charpentiers Reunis of La Ciotat as a plywood kit. Designers of sail-and-oar boats have to reach a compromise between the ability to sail to windward on exposed waters, or the different characteristics that make the boat a joy to row all day. It's usually possible to put a small sailing rig on a boat intended purely for rowing, and it'll go beautifully with the wind coming from the side.
Every lover of small boats has their own view about the perfect sailing-rowing compromise.
Several adventurous coastal cruises have been made in boats about 17 feet long, 47 in wide, pointed at both ends, with the seaworthy hull shape of a miniature whaleboat. In 1874-75, Nathaniel Bishop rowed a boat of roughly these dimensions 2500 miles from Quebec to the Gulf of Mexico. Not many years later the naval architect Frederick 'Fritz' Fenger sailed a similar but more sophisticated boat along the Antilles island chain. Many people feel that the best rowing-sailing boat is a dory, not the old Grand Banks fisherman's dory but one of its sophisticated descendants with a rounded cross-section. The Swampscott dory, for example, was very popular in the 19th century as a light sailing boat for racing in sheltered waters. The websites and books listed here include much about rowing-sailing boats, and every summer you can see them taking part in raids and regattas. When we say sailing canoe, we don't mean a Canadian canoe with a temporary bolt -on sailing rig but the dedicated sailing craft which evolved from it. Intermediate boats like High Horton's 15 feet 5 inch Bufflehead give gentle fun on gentle days or excitement when the wind gets stronger, unless you drop the masts and sails and get the paddle out instead.
One person can sleep aboard the bigger canoes when they're drawn up on the beach or even at anchor. The Canadian canoe has been around ever since North American native peoples discovered that birch bark and spruce could be turned into a boat, and canoe users have always helped their craft along on downwind trips by holding up a bush or a blanket.
In the 19th century, leisure users started to put a very small mast and sail onto canoes and short wide kayaks.
For racing she can carry 84 square feet of sail, which is a lot for such a slim boat but the short masts and square sails mean that the centre of effort is low compared to a modern racing dinghy.
She is suitable for cruising on lakes, estuaries and wide rivers but a bit light and open for the sea. Some 19th century canoeists covered the entire boat with a deck so that no water would enter in a capsize. He had the builder give her a self-bailing cockpit which drains through a centreboard case. In the late 19th century in Britain and the eastern United States, the sailing canoe was nearly as popular as the bicycle. The canoe sailing boom started because people were inspired by small, light boats with small sailing rigs.
In a light and simple sailing canoe you can either take the sails down and start paddling, or sit up on the side deck and lean your body weight to windward. Smaller sailing canoes designed to be equally good for paddling and sailing are often called 50:50 designs.
If you're interested in building a small or medium sailing canoe, something you can pick up and carry, have a look at the 12 foot Wee Rob design from Iain Oughtred, the 12 foot 8 inch Piccolo by the late Bob Baker, the Oughtred MacGregor which can be anything from 13 feet 6 inches to 17 foot 3 inches long, and the 15 foot 5 inch Bufflehead. The unstable racing canoe survives as the International 10 Square Metre sailing canoe (IC10). Although not as fast as a racing catamaran, sailing canoes seem even faster because you are perched on a narrow plank with water streaking past underneath. Smaller extreme sailing canoes, 16 feet long and 30 inches wide, are still sailing on lakes and bays in North America. For plans for a plywood 16-30 sailing canoe like the two-masted version in the photo, contact John Summers. The Victorians had ballasted sailing canoes for cruising on exposed waters, for example some of Warington Baden Powell's Nautilus designs and Linton Hope's Coma China. If those words make you think of endless forests, wolves and snow, you may be surprised to hear that much of Scandinavia has wonderful summers with very long days, a long, beautiful and empty coastline, and many islands, lakes and rivers. The sailing canoes in the Swedish classes listed below can be paddled short distances, or rowed, but they're usually sailed. D-class and E-class canoes are very expensive and too heavy to transport on the roof of your car, but the D-class in particular is seaworthy and some designs let you sleep aboard in summer. The same website also has a gallery of lines drawings for sailing canoes of all sorts, dating from 1870 to 1992 and ranging from heavy sea cruisers to the sort of lightweight racing machine that falls over as soon as you put the mast up. Paddlinglight is publishing a series of digitised plans for building cedar strip versions of well known traditional kayaks and canoes. Italians race development class of boats limited only by sail area and length limited by the standard (in Italy) 3.1m sheet of ply.
Free plans for a very simple 14ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my mother.
Free plans for a very simple 12ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my daughter, Ella.
An easy to build light-weight 15ft 6in rower suitable for use on lakes and rivers, perhaps for exercise rowing but also usable for picnics on the river, fishing and the rest.
Plans for two boats - one extraordinarily beautiful, the other an extraordinarily eccentric racer. A nicely-built example of my Cinderella canoe, adapted for rowing with some neat outriggers made from ply.
Free designs for a very sweet ply camp-cruiser for one, or a cat-rigged sailing dinghy for more. Not really about free boat designs - though there might be some later - but a new blog about boat restoratons, traditional boatbuilding, and traditionally-derived boats. Try our customised Google search designed to eliminated all the irrelevant junk you sometimes get! A little open-canoe for paddle-savvy kids who love the water, and aren't nervous in a tippy boat!
I like this one from an old American magazine - built with some of the right period details, it could be a real head-turner.
Square Metre Sharpie - one of the more obvious European developments from the North American sharpie working boats.
After Allison and WB 213 helped me to establish the differences between Ian Oughtred's Caledonian Yawl and the Selway Fisher JIM hull sections I've been wondering about the differences in their sailing performance .
I betcha Jim is more docile, less flighty, requires less constant attention in higher and gustier winds. Having sailed neither the Jim nor the CY, my thought is that the CY would be more responsive in light airs, and the Jim would be more sedate in stronger winds. There is something to be said for the large number of CYs built and being built, and the rave reviews from their owners.
There's also the fact that you've chosen to show the cross section of the four plank CY while many agree that the 7 plank version is prettier and should offer easier building and a slight performance advantage. Has anyone built the 7 strake hull with the bulkhead-deck arrangement shown on the original plans?
Wayne, don't know the answer to that deck question except there's probably no reason it couldn't if someone wanted it to.
My guess is the real historic european double enders will carry their max beam further forward. Looking through Chapelles ASSC and Gardners Building classic small craft and the Dory book I haven't seen one of the many famous double ended craft that carries max beam aft of ammidships. These historic craft shapes developed in very competive environments where expert watermen discussed and tweaked their boats and designs constantly in order to achieve the very best performance.
I feel one of the major limits on speed of these small relatively light double enders is the stern wave that they drag at hull speed. The modern designs shown above have a tighter, more abrupt tuck at the transom the hull will draw more water up along the transom and be bogged down by it's stern wave at a lower speed.

Anyone besides Dan Noyes ever hear of how bad and bogged-down CY's and AT's and such are in their sailing performance? Bogged down is a relative term, certainly any double ender is going to drag more water than a modern transom hull as sailing speed increases.
I wouldn't call the Alpha a fast sailboat either and I've never come close to being passed by a CY. See the programme for the festival here and take a look also at John’s excellent galleries of Scottish traditional boats.
Try scrolling down, clicking on the 'older posts' button at the bottom of this page - or try the search gadget! I'm a bit of a Luddite with computers so I can't seem to post any of the images I have, but there are several on the Norse boat building sites. The pictures of the Ness Yoles, built very recently, show that that builder built his a€?Ness Yolea€™ with 6 strakes.
I was looking at building traditional, and looking for timber sources, before starting Shearwater.
An open boat 22 ft 7 in long, she is large enough to carry six people in comfort but will float in knee-deep water. A short, wide, heavy boat won't glide through the water with the occasional touch on the oars. However you'll need fast reactions and the ability to swim, and if you want to go upwind or directly downwind it's probably time to take the mast down.
This is usually a centerboard or daggerboard, raised and lowered through a vertical slot in the hull. Built for him by WF Stevens of Marblehead, Massachusetts, his Yakaboo had very little freeboard and was double-ended, so perhaps we can call her a sailing canoe even though she was too wide to paddle easily. Other well-known yacht and multihull designers with a fondness for sailing canoes include Frederick Fenger, Uffa Fox, John Gardner, Phil Bolger, Jim Brown, Iain Oughtred and the Gougeon brothers. The Miller 18 drawn here was a contender in the Everglades Challenge 2012 and has just enough room for two people to spend the occasional night under the foredeck.
At first these were gentle little craft up to about 15 feet long that you could sail downwind, or across the wind, while seated inside the cockpit. The cruising sails area can easily be reefed to reduce their area, and if the wind gets too strong or Shelduck is to be paddled directly upwind, her masts can be taken down on the water. The centreboard can be moved fore and aft to change the centre of lateral resistance, which means no rudder is needed.
The simplicity of the early sailing canoe was left behind as designs evolved in two directions, either towards more seaworthiness or towards racing speed on flat water. Their sailing canoes were made even wider and fitted with complex and efficient sailing rigs.
Today you can still find the extreme types of sailing canoe if you look hard enough (see below) but it's the simple, moderate sailing canoes that are enjoying a revival. It was easy to take them out, you could sail in only a few inches of water without worrying about rocks or scaring away the wildlife.
However if you want to sail a canoe to windward, especially on a windy day, you need to do something to resist the wind pressing on your sail. Some have a deck to keep them from sinking in rough water or when heeled over, and we regard that as almost essential if they are to be used at sea. Plans for these are available from Jordan Boats (plans for Wee Rob and MacGregor, pre-cut kits), Canoe Sailing Magazine (Bufflehead plans) and either Baker Boatworks or WoodenBoat magazine for Piccolo. This looks like a very skinny racing dinghy, with a sliding seat which enables the sailor to sit a long way out from the side of the hull. Some Scandinavian sailing canoes are the size and weight of small dinghies, others are miniature yachts carrying over 400 pounds of lead on the bottom of the hull, like the one illustrated here. They can have either a cruising rig with two masts and relatively small sails or a racing rig for use near a sailing club, with a single tall mast and a high-tech sail.
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The website's in Italian, but has lots of pictures and best of all one of the builders and racers has published plans for their boat - and it's a lot like a large sailing Mouse, such as the Eek.
Most are in the UK, but we will include some US material, not least because the author is an enthusiast for American boat types.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. But I would REALLY appreciate if we could have some analysis of the 2 types , their sailing performance .I would expect Artic Tern to be faster and probably point higher with her higher peaked lug , but wonder if JIM has any positives ,aside from her very pleasing appearance ( to my eyes at least ) .
By carrying the widest point forward the alpha has straighter lines aft I feel that this reduces the height and size of the stern wave and has a lot to do with it's exceptionally fast, efficient and seaworthy sailing characteristics.
With out tank testing type data it's hard to say for sure but my experience with boats and how they move through the water tells me that a boat with a significant amount of shape right at the stern will draw water at the transom, limitting their hull speed. But, all respect due our friend, the plywood Ness Yawl pales some, in the light of a natural planked one. After thinking 'out of the box' a source of salvage or reclaimed timber that I considered, was to make use of railway sleepers. The Ness Yole is primarily a sailing boat, with a solid timber mast and gaff to carry two large sails, but if the wind dies it can be rowed by up to six people. It may occasionally carry a small sailing rig in fine weather but has nothing underwater to resist leeway.
A sufficiently stable shape in cross-section to carry a very small sailing rig during perfect sailing weather. His Maria Theresa, shown here in a close encounter with an alligator, was 14 feet long and 28 inches wide, only a little wider than a kayak.
A traditional boat raid is a gathering of similar boats which race from one place to another using oar and sail, usually over several days. It's very cute, is fun to sail in nice weather on sheltered waters, and paddles well if there's no wind. In fine summer weather in Sweden and Finland, sailors often stop in a sheltered location, put up a canvas boom tent, and sleep aboard their 18 to nearly 20 foot Scandinavian sailing canoes.
She is 17 feet long by 39 inches wide, which makes it easier to move her with a short pair of oars than a paddle.
Compared to an International Laser sailing dinghy she has 5% more sail area and 27% less beam. Racing enthusiasts found that wider canoes, flatter underneath, made the best sail racers; and that a canoeist could use a much larger sail if he tied a plank across the top of the canoe and sat on the upwind end. They carry big sails to match the ballast, so just like the smaller canoes you can sit in the cockpit in light winds, but you'll want to sit up on deck in gusty conditions or to go to windward so that your body-weight can help keep the boat upright. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).
It's been going on for years apparently, but I've only just learned about it from Frank Baldry of the UK HBBR. So what if the news of the 7 strake hull shape came along AFTER John had the 4 plank molds set up. Broadley the argument I wish to make is that these boats would originally had fewer strakes.I think it depends on time.
Apparently there were ads in the Irish papers for norse boat timber and part hulls as late as the early 19th century. The railway industries use a lot of the good timbers like Jarrah and Greenheart under the tracks. Even when the centerboard is retracted, the slot creates enough drag to spoil a rower's day.
His book Alone in the Caribbean (published by George Doran, 1917, various re-prints) is available free online at Craig O'Donnell's The Cheap Pages. It's easier to join in than it is to organize your own adventure trip, and the entry fee sometimes covers food and accommodation at each stop. Her sail area can be reduced at sea, but under full sail she is a wet, wet ride for experts only.
In the quest for speed and status some had iron or lead weights attached to the bottom to help stability.
In America, William Clements has built a number of high-quality wooden reproductions of the Victorian classics.
These canoes are fitted with a sitting-board so you can get your weight to windward without dragging your backside in the water like an International Laser sailor. Around 1960 the class regulations were changed and from then and until 2007 the minimum weight, ballast included was 235kg. Two or three or four sailing canoes will often go cruising together, mooring in the same spot to spend the night, and stretching a tarpaulin over the cockpit (a boom tent) for shelter. I conventionally think that 'traditional' boats have many strakes since the 'traditional' dinghies that sail on the South Coast of the UK were built in the 1950s-60s typically post war - used lots of strakes cut from the narrow planks of wood available, but here's the interesting paradox: Ian's double enders are 'descended' from the Shetland boats - the Sixern, Fourern and Eela's that were shipped over from Norway (no trees on Shetland). I've read somewhere, can't find the reference at the minute, that the Gokstad Faering with three planks has a very low coefficient of drag, in that it has very low wave making. As sailing boats, they both have centerboards of which only a stub is shown in these drawings.
The center crammed with inflated air bags which can be adjusted to leave room for one crew, or two crew, or crew plus a heavy load of camping equipment. They often had a small mast and sail for touring, and a larger mast and sail which they used in club races, sitting on the edge of the canoe and leaning backwards to keep the canoe upright against the force of the wind in the sail. In 2007 we adjusted the regulations, mainly concering the minimum weight, it was raised to 360kg hull and ballast".

These boats were built by very skilled craftsman who could build the boats from wide planks to a perfected shape in 3 or 4 strakes. If we consider a€?living memorya€™ for inclusion in a boat book or photograph perhaps we are talking fifty years back. It also said that as you load up the faering, the drag hardly changed, they could go as fast.
Enough freeboard to row in rough water without starting to fill with water, not so much as to make it the plaything of high winds. So while many may consider traditional to be dinghies with lots of smaller strakes, 'traditional' for the Oughtred double enders really is the 4 strake examples like the Tirrik. I think the Norse builders had figured this by trial an error and new more strakes were an inefficiency. These timbers may look a bit rough on the outside but inside the timber can be pretty good. Personal preference always plays a part - I have several of his plans for the newer multistrake designs (Arctic Tern and Caledonia Yawl) but I was really struck by how simple and elegant the Tirrik was with actually fewer strakes.
Plus, the boatbuilders were migratory, going to the fisherman or farmers barn to build the boat in their space when they got the call. They come in nice baulk sized timbers, but you'd need a good saw to cut them and have to to take care, as they relieve the internal stresses.As an example take a look at this UK site, they had Azobe, Jarrah and Greenheart sleepers and baulks. They had to be really clever, as this mean't they couldn't carry around a building jig as we build as a straight reference, and instead built to a reference of a straight line above the boat i.e. Either it was built to a Norse design in Ireland or it was built in Norway and shipped, no one knows for sure.Some of the Nordland boats were also traditionally built with more strakes, even some smaller ones, there are more photos scattered around that site, but most the smaller boats are 4 strake.
The Scandinavian builders perfected the design of the faering etc then it hardly changed for centuries - they could have had as many strakes as they pleased, but settled on 3 or 4 for overall performance and building for good reason.
Sticks of a set length could be used to triangulate where the plank edges had to be to get the shape and hold them out, together with an angle board that they put inside the strake to give it the correct deadrise. A response to different styles or availability of timber, they don't say.My boat is out of Doug fir, salvage timber. In the end - build the one that fits your building space and its a labour of love so build the one you find most attractive.
Decide what your needs are by deciding where your going to launch and then where you are actually going to sail to, and back. The decked in areas will probably be Fir, Jarrah is a lot heavier than oak so I don't want to use too much of that. The best boat is the one that take you there and back on that journey safely and enjoyably. The smallest boat that meets your needs will be the one that gets used the most especially if your singlehanding.
The Norwegians looking at expanding their territory, also throwing out some of its own outcasts, were looking over the horizon at pastures new.
The Shetland Islands were useful to them, as they were on the direct route to Iceland, from where they got to GreenLand, then the North East Coast of North America. There are narrower and beamer versions of many of his designs - he will send you the plans that best suit you if you talk to him. This route was important to them, temperatures were warmer then, and with an Easterly wind could reach across the Atlantic via the Northern Route above the low pressure systems. If your in New York, I believe he's at the Woodenboat 'campus' this summer not so far from you.For 'pre-reading' on clinker plywood the books I've used the most are Ian's Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding, Tom Hills book and Greg Rowsell's Building Small Craft. As such the Shetland was a stop off point, for provisioning, raiding the Scottish Coast, resting or to waiting for good weather inbound or outbound from Norway. Shetland was Norwegian not British from 936.At this time, as now, there would have been loads of big fish in these cold nutrient rich North Atlantic waters. Scotland aserted its authority once it saw the value of the potential fish catch in 1611, when they became what we now would consider part of the UK.The Norwegians were well ahead in inshore boat design, having perfected it for their own use in Norway. There were no trees on the Shetlands so they had no wood of their own, at no point did they develop these boats: they were purchased complete or as parts, as a tool to fish with, from Norway and shipped to the Shetlands. As such the boats were Norwegian boats, just used in Shetland, and so would have been Norwegian in design and build.
I'm not anti GRP or anything, but I don't see how it can actually be done in any other material.
Also a unique selling point and opportunity in todays market perhaps, for such a craft, owner or builder.Build a Tirrik.
Read a few books to understand it in your head, then clear the garage, find good timber and have it delivered. These four oared boats were used close inshore for transport or to catch bait for the Sixern crews to take further offshore to catch the bigger fish. So that your not surprised, they are sail and oar boats, to allow them to row the waterline beam is fairly narrow.
This means they do tip a bit if pressed as they dont have loads of beam or firm bilges to stand up to excessive sail, so the compromise to have a boat that can row when you need it, is that you have to reef these boats when the wind picks up. The used fewer strakes because it was quicker to build and required fewer fastenings, saving time and money and leak points. Many seem to put a bit of ballast in the bilge also to stiffen them up and get them down to their designed waterline: clinker plywood boats can be built very light.
Metals would have been harder to come by for fastening or they used trenails: so the fewer the better.
This means they'll be going in very slight winds when others need to pull out the outboard.
A master Norwegian builder had learn't how to build the perfected shape in 3 strakes knew the board width, grain orientation, soaking, steaming, hollowing, axing etc method needed to build in three strakes. He would have looked down on a novice who hadn't mastered it and took 6-7 strakes to plank the same shape. Building in fewer strakes would have been a mark of quality of master craftsman who knew the secrets.
I'm saying this as to get sail and oar, means compromising some inate stability to clomp around to have that rowing performance. You may or may not be a rower, but its nice to know you won't absolutely need an outboard unless its very tidal where you are. These old Norwegian master craftsman would look at us cutting up a wide board into narrow strakes and scratch their head or laugh. The 3 strake Gokstad Faering's prismatic coefficient of wave making resistance is supposed to be perfect.
They had realised more stakes weren't needed: they had perfected it in 3 sometimes 4 strakes.
There's alot to be said for getting rid of an outboard if you can, so the rowing aspect, even if its just 50 yards to and from a busy dock, has day to day advantages for pleasure of use, not just for rowing raid type events or when its windless.
More was an inefficiency.Back then they were living right next to the trees in Norway, so once cut they could split them and have the wide boards needed for wide planking.
This can still be done today, but you have to get to the tree before its sawed into narrow planks for construction or furniture uses. Getting wide boards is now difficult, especially if you live on a barren treeless island, so the a€?moderna€™ builders on Shetland, as transport brought them closer to Scotland, built a few boats with more narrower planks.
Shipping wide boards to them would be difficult and costly.So my argument is that the boats that were sent to Shetland were Norwegian boats.
Norways custom to when Inshore craft of Norway was printed in 1979 shows that right up to then smaller and medium sized Norwegian boats were 3 or 4 straked.When we see a Shetland type boat built traditionally planked up in 6 strakes, this is not how they would have been for many centuries on Shetland. The only reason to have a boat like this on Shetland would be the conservation of wood by re-using old planks from bigger boats a€“ cannabilised if you like a€“ to build a smaller one, which was known to happen. The traditional boats as sent from Norway originally, would not have had 6 strakes, the Norwegians generally didna€™t do this.As I said earlier, narrow planks are for making a very shapely hull or making a boat from only narrow boards available.
A a€?moderna€™ boatbuilder can take a Nowegian shape and plank it up in more strakes if he wishes and it will look very nice, and of late with narrow planks available thata€™s how they may have done it, but what Ia€™m saying is, originally the boats sent and used on Shetland were Norwegian, and would not have had 6 strakes. These were tools not playthings, if it was quicker and cheaper and just as good in 3-4 strakes then thata€™s how they built them. With all that time and wood, the Norwegians would have used 6 strakes if it was worth it but they largely didna€™t. The Shetlanders werena€™t pioneers they just used what the Norwegians sent them for 900 years, found it worked and used it. Upto 1830 they were importing boats from Bergen, apparently exactly as they were in Norway. So at the most Shetland has been developing its boats, from Norwegian ones for about 100 years: 10% of the time Shetlanders have been using these boats. Rather than buy from Norway, I should think they just bought planks from Scotland and built them themselves -they must have looked at enough over the precedding 900 years, just upping the strakes as they found narrower planks easier and cheaper to get and transport to them.An argument would be that the Norwegians were using 6 strakes originally, and have more recently gone to 3-4 strakes.
And recent history on Shetland may have been that they built multistrake, but looking back further, the evidence is that the boats used on Shetland for 90% of the time would have had fewer strakes, 3 or 4, like the Tirrik and Ness Yawl.I think its great. I should read less and build more!Allison, the Boat Building College at Lyme Regis has a website.

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