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Thank you for all your help I cleaned up the contacts on the rear plug and the taillights started working, as for the windshield wipers I found a loose wire under the hood.
Our main products are cylinder head gasket, the whole car gaskets, valve chamber cover pad, oil pan pad, intake pipe pads, exhaust pipe pads, oil cooler pad, O-rings and a variety of engine seals. We accept customized orders, and are willing to discuss the accuracy of product development with customers to achieve the highest quality. I have read many posts on the subject buy I have about 200' (mainline) inside track and 125' (mainline) outside track that I try to clean and keep clean often. To answer your specific question, the LGB track cleaning loco (I owned one prior to switching to stainless steel track) works well, provided you maintain the cleaning wheels. Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words. Note: After the history of acrimony from the anti-bully and liquid refreshment imbibers, I might not respond in a thread, so feel free to ask me questions via email (not private messages). I have one of the LGB track cleaning engines and I only use it when the track hasn't been used for a long time and there is a lot of oxidation and crud. In my case it depends on the situation and why you are considering the LGB Track Cleaning Loco. I bought another LGB TCL to clean the garage layout because the brass track there is also very hard to get to and the lower deck only has a 9" clearance making it impossible to clean any other way. I know of nothing other than the TCL that follows the curve of the track and effectively cleans sharp curves and turnouts.
The main outside track is Aristo-Craft stainless steel track with LGB nickle plated turnouts so I use non-abrasive cleaners there.
It is true that if not watched the TCL can stall and grind a bit of track and if left long enough it can destroy the track.
The replacement wheels are expensive so using the TCL as the only track cleaner on a large layout can get somewhat expensive.
In fact, depending on the size of the layout, the cost of a TCL may be less than the difference between buying brass or stainless steel track.
If you like the LGB TCL, and can comfortably afford it, you may want to go ahead and buy it.
Advice from others is always a good idea but it is unlikely anyone else can make as good a recommendation as your gut feeling when it tells you what you should do.

Train-Li has the replacement wheels at a much more reasonable cost that the usual LGB price. If you use an LGB TCL to get your rail heads bright and shiny you may be wearing your rail heads out prematurely.
I try to avoid 0-4-0's, 0-6-0's and 2-4-0's running by themselves and I usually find a way (ball bearing wheels in tenders or in other rolling stock) to increase the track contacts. On the other hand if you just happen to like small locos (or Handcars and Fortuna Flyers etc.) then you ARE going to need extra clean tracks.
With 125' of outdoor track I would be hesitant to buy and run an LGB TCL on that track if you have any trees or other greenery nearby. You may wish to replace your 125' of outdoor track with stainless steel track and either use your brass track indoors or sell it.
I am NOT trying to tell you what you should do - just to point out the things that you may want to think about. The plastic diiscs are important as they raise the cleaner above the plastic frogs to eliminate wear on the plastic frogs. Yeah, due to the consistent flangeway depth, but not all frog flangeways are the same depth as LGB.
I tried one for the first time today and I was pleasantly surprised with how well it worked. Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic. I bought an LGB TCL to clean the brass track there because much of the layout is very inconvenient to clean.
Most cleaners ride the flat top of the rails while the soft abrasive disk of the TCL wraps around the head of the rails. The other outside layout is all Aristo-Craft stainless steel track and turnouts and I use a couple different types of track cleaning and sweeper cars. Do you have sharp (4' or 5' diameter curves) which track cleaning cars have difficulty cleaning and not derailing? Is your layout indoors (where it may seldom need cleaning) or outdoors (where you may need to clean more often due to a lot more than brass tarnishing).

I have track that was used in a commercial operation where I had to throw some parts away but since I watch and listen to the TCL I have never had it damage any track. If the price would stretch your budget and you are hesitant about buying a TCL, you may opt for something else now since a track cleaning car or hand cleaning is probably going to be a back up plan for you anyway.
The TCL's are prone to zebra striping as the wheels can bounce on the tracks (this is another topic entirely). I have also found many locos with internal contacts (carbon brushes) that simply were not making contact with the drivers resulting in loss of electrical contact with the rails. Someone posted that dealers will now have to pay to have track shipped to them which may significantly increase the cost of future track.
LGB did standardize this in their products, and all of that worked fine as long as everything was LGB. That being said now the truck wont start and the battery will not hold a charge, I'm going to buy a new battery this afternoon and change out the turn signal switch, but I still don't think that is the root of the problem. Check the ground(s) for the rear harness too, it's typically under the vehicle, exposed to the elements. Additionally there are a LOT of dead end sidings and in my opinion nothing cleans sidings like the LGB TCL since you can drive it (over very dirty track) into the siding and back (several times as needed).
Flat rail head cleaners cannot touch the rails where there is anything sticking up above the rail head such as LGB Track Magnets. If considering buying a used TCL you should be somewhat careful to be sure that everything works right as parts might (or might not) be in short supply.
That flange can wear down pretty fast on the TCL, it's not real thick, especially on metal frogs of other manufacturer's turnouts. For general cleaning I use a G-Clean track cleaning car with an LGB 50040 track cleaning block in it.
Actually there is one other thing that does - the LGB track cleaner pads that fit on some small LGB rolling stock.
Give them a tug some will be so brittle they fall apart others may look good but are no good.(Some are actually turn green) from oxidation over time.

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