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Jayrob laser kits,o scale outdoor railroads,bus schedule new york state,walthers ho scale model railroad reference book - Review

Star Trek Classic Phaser 445nm 1.4Watt Jayrob Modified - Laser Pointers Discuss laser pointers. The one thing that I found, is that if doing so, it's better to regulate the voltage going to the sound board and the 3 volt LED 'armed' indicator LED using a 7833 voltage regulator.
But lithium primaries are fine without any voltage regulators for a 445 build using 2 X e2 lithium AA's in series if you are ok with 650mA's.
I have all the feedback comments from buyers listed together here: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light! I am really liking this and am just considering buying one from you to save me the hassle of trying it myself. 2) Does running the us sold "protected" 32650 cells require anything more than a tail cap mod?
Thanks and whats the price shipped for one of your 2 cell fully loaded maglites with the voltage indicator? Originally Posted by DKlaser I am really liking this and am just considering buying one from you to save me the hassle of trying it myself.
I have some of the non-protected 32600's on hand for $40 a pair with the purchase of an XM-L T6 build.
I am still kicking this around, If I decided to try it myself would you sell the tail cap mod itself for that price?
You can look down the tube and see if the switch contact has a spring, or is a flat contact point. I have a Q5 mod in a my Key Chain CR2 host that is a 'must see' as well: Q5 Mod - Key Chain CR2! This time, I disabled the little circuit at the button switch, and used a 3 ohm 1 watt resistor to regulate the current to 332mAs'! Using the clicky switch, and 3 ohm 1 watt resistor, I measure 332mA's current draw with a fresh battery! This Flashlight mod is even more difficult than the laser mod, because the head screws on last. I disassembled everything from the mounting board that the laser came with, and bought some material from Tap Plastic, and a project box from Radio Shack. I dont think it will harm the laser to keep a marble on the top, as the apeture from what I know is a 95% reflective mirrior anyway. All you will need is a module (very easy to solder a small wire to bypass the switch - see picture below), a battery, and a 1.5mm Allen wrench for the set screws.
The only other difference, is that this is just the 'shell casing', so it doesn't come with a board for the battery contact. You can by-pass that style switch by soldering a small wire from one of the bottom points, to one of the top points. For the assembly, it's just a matter of positioning the module at the correct distance, so that the front piece can slide in, and the final retaining ring can screw on, to hold it in place. The threaded piece that I have the set screw in (see note in picture), is a piece that comes with the host. The dust cap that is included with your DIY Green kit fits right over the kaleidoscope tip as well!
Custom front piece including the kaleidoscope tip mounted with a set screw as shown in the first picture - $34 dollars.
If you order this new 'Star Tip' assembly separate from your DIY Green kit order, it will be $3 dollars shipping. I'm showing this picture just to point out that you may need to cut the spring on the tail cap a little shorter and use some needle nose pliers to re-shape the battery contact tip of the spring. This is an easy way to take up the extra space in the barrel so that your battery doesn't 'rattle'.
Another good and easy way to make a battery sleeve, is to cut a strip of plastic from a 2 liter bottle of soda.
I'll give the option of just drilling out the reflector so that the module will just slide through!


And I also want to mention that Greg is stocking my Pocket Mini Kits in his store, Stonetek.org. If you already have one of my kits, you can send me the back 'barrel' portion of the host, and I can do the modification for the same price. You just LOVE making everything easier for everyone dont you * You might whana remove those links though. This is my first visit to this site and I just read your post about you no longer selling lasers built by you. FS: Mag Charger XM-L T6 Modification - 1000 Lumens - Laser Pointers Discuss laser pointers. The stock Mag Charger metal reflector opening on the back, gets enlarged to fit the XM-L U3 emitter. The main difference, is the initial cost of a Mag Charger light, with it's charging cradle and accessories. Originally Posted by tommydonovan Well I got my custom XM-L Magcharger in the mail two days ago and decided to do a small review for others who might be interested in getting one.
If having a scorchingly bright light always at the ready in a charger fits your needs, this is the one for you! I've got another magcharger that I will probably be sending you for the same build and I will be telling all my LEO police friends to send you their lights for this modification.
Originally Posted by wildchild541 I got my 1000 Lumen Magcharger today and its well worth it. If it was a normal Maglite conversion as shown for my regular XM-L T6 Maglite ( FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!! But as you can see in the build pictures, there were a couple of extra things that I needed to do for this Mag Charger XM-L T6 modification. Now, since Gazoo has been having good results with his AMC7135 driver and the open can diode, I decided to try the 7135 driver in an MXDL. But when I connected the open can diode and measured the power with the LPM-1, I got a reading of 314mW peak and it stayed over 300mW!
At this point, it really doesn't make sense to me that this driver at 338mA can be running the open can at over 300mW. This MXDL (30 minutes before) was running the open can with a DDL driver at 2.98 volts and 324mA. In terms of COD you probably have a pretty good diode there, i'd expect most to quickly die from putting out that much light. But it would not explain how you are getting 300mw's out of a diode running with only 338ma's.
I don't recall how much current is going into my open can with this regulator, and I would have to de-solder my peltier to check. I know this sounds like I am missing something like the ND filter, or the settings of the LPM.
This is the Star Trek Classic Phaser which started out as a Jayrob Hot option kit which I modified.
I know its nowhere near the lite that the one you are selling is but how much brighter are we talking? Because the cheaper places don't sent brand new in the box chargers, and they don't work properly.
But now that it is all done, I am very happy to have it working at this higher current using a clicky (constant on) switch! I'm really happy with being able to fit the head of the tiny Key chain light with a machined down reflector from the Pocket Mini host, and an 11mm X 1mm thick piece of flat glass. The laser mounting method which I found, just happens to be perfect for the Sentorch as well! But I have some IR filters, and the difference in the measurement is only about 10mW's or less with the IR filter (50mW module).
It will be drilled out precisely centered (on the lathe) and fit with a small set screw for the module.


Here in this thread: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!!
Jayrob did an excellent job of modifying the light and kept in communication throughout the build. Output is very good, durability, so far, seems to be excellent and the ease of use for a custom light is second to none-just drop it in the charger when you're done and it's always ready. I want to tell you that I got the (how to) wiring diagram of the 7135 driver ahead of time and followed it correctly.
Then I took the MXDL apart and measured the current at the diode and got a reading of 338mA. Later in the thread, I re-designed and went back to a custom DDL driver with 2 x 3.6 RCR123s and a different module as well.
One thing I would do is remove the silicon diode you have soldered to the laser diode and see if anything changes.
For the power you're getting out of it it sounds like you're running it at closer to 700mA not 350mA. First, I'd like to thank Jayrob for the Great Job he did on this project to get me started.
Just put a piece of the foam type double sided tape on the battery, and leave the protective part on the top side of the tape! It could be it is adding to the voltage drop of the laser diode and would explain the high voltage reading. Even if the regulator was putting out the full power the most you should see is around 255mw's using a glass lens. Of course I have a 33 ohm resistor in parallel with the diode, so the diode is only seeing ~250ma's.
I ran it for 30 seconds while monitoring the temperature on the face of the heatsink, right above the module.
I sent him this phaser and had him do his thing which was install the Copper heatsink, wire the safty switch and Install the LED Power-On light as well as drill,size,prep & position His EZ focus custom adaptor to my 445 Aixiz lens. See pictures of the tail cap mod for protected 32650's in this build: 9 Amp PT-54 Phlatlight Maglite Mod! Note: For a 'push on - push off' switch with this higher current, see the pictures below the 'beam shot' under 'Retrofit'. This is such a great project that you have shown here and I am very happy that you shared it. In fact, I'm going to use this post to quote some of the feedback I've been getting on this build.
It also comes with two chargers, one for home and one for the car (where mine is used exclusively). I am sure you slid the ND filter in front of the meter, and you have your meter set on the 660ND setting?
Then installed a finned aluminum heatsink to mount the flexdrive to after turning it up to 1.5Amps. With this combination, the open can diode is putting out 287mW (measured with a glass lens) . The one difference besides the small difference in current that I measured, is the voltage to the LD.
I don't sell it by itself, just in this upgrade for the Pocket Mini Kit or the DIY Green Kit.




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Comments to «Jayrob laser kits»

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