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A little while ago I told you about an ongoing project to automate my parents’ G-Scale outdoor model railroad. The point-to-point should start at one station, move to the other station, stopping out of site for a while. The Point-to-Point and Figure 8 lines have uphill and downhill sections, so the speed needs to be varied in these sections. The Figure 8 line has two programmable stops, but the train shouldn’t necessarily stop at both stops every time.
Whether you use a PLC or a PC for control, being able to control the voltage to a track (to control a motor speed) is pretty much a solved problem, so let’s assume we can do that for now. Photo-sensitive (infrared) detectors, either retro-reflective or thru-beam type, are popular on indoor layouts, but they apparently don’t work well outdoors because sunlight floods them with infrared.
Reed switches are popular, but you need to fit all your engines with magnets, and they are a bit flaky. All proximity detection strategies require you to run two wires to every sensor, which is a lot of extra wiring. Having sensors out in the layout itself means you’re exposing electrical equipment to an outdoor environment.
So, the wire from the common side of your speed controller goes directly to the common rail, as it did before. We’re using that constant voltage to drive the input side of an LTV-824 opto-isolator chip. I like this solution for several reasons: all the electronics are at the control panel, not out in the field (except the wires to each block, and the track itself).
This all started in August of 2014 with a nice, simple idea in a blog post to control animations in process. Additional note: If you ever intend to use a servo motor attached to pin 13 -- the same pin used to drive the built-in LED -- please unsolder the LED, or the LED dropping resistor on board, or cut the trace to the LED to disable it.
Please note some programming cables sold have scrambled pin outs, and color coding is wrong! Build the decoder hardware variant of you want, and then look here for information on setting up and loading the decoder sketch (program) of your choosing. In the original effort, I pointed out that I am not a proponent of asking modelers to learn how to program-- just learn how to use these new tools. Configurable accessory decoder where servo timing is turned off (detached) after the end of the servo transit.
Accessory decoder with each function pin generating a configurable timed pulse with turn-on of the function (0 to 1 transition).
Included below is a brief description of one detailed working example for a 7 servo 10 LED configuration that may help people configure their own versions for their particular modeling needs. There has never been any intention to create a competitive commercial decoder—and there still is none.
You should consider making this a clinic to be be presented at the NMRA National in Indianapolis this coming summer.
I encourage every modeler, regardless of hobby interest, to check out your web connections. If I ever get to your beautiful country, I will have a bunch of these in my pocket for you!

It gave me a chance to see close up and in more detail in how you installed the components and achieved the end result. Having the models made the clinic unique and a nice change from the standard PowerPoint presentation. I will admit you were on a clinic marathon in Portland with Animation, Lights, Sound and Cranes. ShareThisI am in the process of building a DCC Test Track using the NEC Power Cab and the USB interface for Powercab. Ace Pre excision lots of 300mm lengths of red & inkiness spiritualist hookup This is so.
There are two new boards to help construction: one with a 100ma voltage regulator and one with a 1 Amp regulator. OSHPark offers a public service fabricating very high quality, low cost PC boards in low quantities. I cannot guarantee pulse and servo timing consistency if these functions are used simultaneously. Delete your previous version and replace it with the new NMRADcc folder into …\My Documents \Arduino\libraries folder.
Before changing the CV settings take a look at the initial settings and make small changes first to observe the effects.
If I do, it may not be another 8 clinics, though -- that was a great deal of prep and effort. The Decoder3P is configured to accept a larger package component like a L7805 (1.5 Amp) regulator.
All aspects of their design and construction are available for public use with no restrictions.
Remember, you can configure  each pin to do to what function you would like, including a 17 servo driver.
This should give modelers a starting point, and a better understanding for customizing their decoders. Undoubtedly now, there will be more of these to come, more variations, more learning, and more improvements.
This will reset everything including the decoder address, when the pushbutton on the Pro Mini is pushed (reset) or by powering the decoder off then on. With the model in front of me I can study both before and after the clinic, giving me many more details and insights. And you would drastically reduce the number of show and tell items that you would have to transport. However, there are no speed tables, jump starts, momentum effects, back emf, do-dads, whizzies, or anything else but a direct mapping from the 0-127 speed setting to the motor Pulse-Width-Modulation plus direction control of the selected motor. These are manufactured and distributed by many companies worldwide, some for as little as $2 (quantity one) including shipping! I am not trying to do that here, merely trying to show others that these little guys can add a great deal to your modeling enjoyment.
I hope those modelers reading this can take advantage of the effort, and share your variations with others.
You will know when the default CV setting are being reset as the decoder will flash Digital Pin 14 (A0) for one second.

DCC Really Is Less Complicated Much Thomas More selective information on a lot less wire From DCC Made. The on-board power supply, which powers the board from the DCC bus directly, can also be dropped.
Depending on your application, you might want to use the smaller package to fit in a smaller volume if you don’t need the power. If you have a voltmeter, plug your cable into your computer, but not into the Arduino Pro Mini and measure the voltage from the black wire to red wire-- it should be +5 volts. With such a cheap and powerful tool, a series of tested, working, and packaged instructions (called Sketches or programs) to set up these versatile DCC decoders with many practical functions are made available.
Please note, time dependent functions like servo control and motor speed control will interact.
The multifunction decoder address can be changed to another short DCC address by changing CV 1. Mike Polsgrove has been written material Model Railroader powder store s DCC Corner column since 2003.
This allows for a higher power, local 5 volt power source from batteries, power adapters, and other power supplies.
This is not a commercial product, but I dare say there are hundreds, maybe thousands of these that are in use by modelers around the world-- judging from the feedback. I doubt very much that I would have pursued all these variations, especially the accessory decoder variants, without the interest and enthusiasm shown by scores of modelers, literally, from around the world.
The first point to strain about wiring for DCC is that in many respects it is no unlike to wiring for Connectivity is hush king live frogs still have. This new board attaches to the Arduino Pro Mini board directly, via header connectors, pins and sockets, or plain wire. If you power the little board(s) with an external 5 volt supply or batteries, omit B1, C3, and IC1.
I have tested servo operation simultaneous with motor speed control and it worked, but motor timing was affected.
The value of C1 is listed at 22uf, but I use whatever the largest capacitor I have on hand and can fit in the space with a 25-35 volt rating. With an external 5 volt source, if you intend to drive the motor(s) you can only omit B1, as the DCC signal is rectified and used as motor power through the H-Bridge.
I am using this with small motors (50ma drive) in situations where such timing is not at all critical.
The 1N4148 diode can be almost any small signal diode with a 30 volt or more reverse voltage specification.
If you do not intend to power any motor(s) you can omit the SN754410, as well as C6 and C7.

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