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Well it looks like I will be retiring my first layout this spring and moving to a more modular shelf layout instead. Coincidentally I have almost the identical space and have designed a plan with an industrial urban harbor theme. If I could figure out a way to upload my plan, I will post it as a follow-up to give some idea of my thought process.
Atlas -scales production schedule, Atlas all-scales production schedule (got questions about the ordering process? Cheapest blueline, blue line, best prices on model trains, ho scale, n scale, broadway limited imports, bli, pcm, precision craft models, trackmobile, track mobile. Baldwin steeple cabs roger chrysler’s own ho baldwin d steeple cabs detailed for lake erie & northern. Copyright © 2012 Autos Weblog, All trademarks are the property of the respective trademark owners. Making Urban Buildings for Model Railways by David Wright is aimed at all those modellers who wish to create a model railway set in an urban landscape.
Making Urban Buildings for Model Railways covers the selection and the construction of a wide range of urban buildings, and presents many detailed photographs of real buildings from which the modeller can gain ideas, identify specific features and draw inspiration. David Wright is a professional artist and model maker who has written several articles in the railway modelling press.
I have decided to make a small lake area in the middle of the model which can be lifted out and replaced whenever I need to get into the centre. I have made some mistakes on this build, ie the climb for the train on the outside track is too steep for it to run without working the control, I have to speed it up on the incline and slow it down on the descend; however my next one will be bigger and better I hope, cos I have really got the bug now, this has certainly been a fantastic hobby. As usual I create my frame work using polystyrene foam, bits of cardboard or whatever is lying around. Once I have a good idea of the sorts of formations I want, I create as much as possible with the under frame to avoid unnecessary weight. I then mix up my plaster in small batches, usually three or four large tablespoons of plaster and one large teaspoon of Tint. It is important to note to do these patches away from each other, so as to not foul the foil. I then wait about 5 minutes for the plaster to set (once it is warm) and then gently peel the foil off, revealing a contoured area.
I start with a dark undercoat, usually watering it down so it soaks in all the little cracks, holes and crevasses the foil has created. Dry brushing is a technique by which you place a little amount of paint on the brush, rubbing the brush on the palate to remove most of the paint leaving you with an almost “Dry Brush” and then gently brushing across the surface in quick strokes. I am just starting to get back into the model railroading hobbie now that I had to stop working and go on disability. Grant, just finsihed building a mountain on a small modular N scale using florist wire and cardboard overlaid with plaster cloth. One of the most detailed and creative Japanese layout I’ve have seen in quite a while. 2) I apply probably quite thin, about a eighth of an inch (5mm) Because the shaping and texturing will vary the thickness, as long as I have coverage (2-3mm) i am happy.
The waterfall is done by cutting ragged strips of a very thin clear plastic (I think it was PVC) now I use the sheets from clear trasparencies i scored from office supplies. Dave, that is a marvelous model, How wonderful to have the room to make such a brilliant looking town, and some great tips too.
I always look forward to receiving you emails Al your members are very talented I love the hints and tips in todays email and the layouts are fantastic, great job everyone. This N scale model railroad guide features a directory of N scale model railroad layouts, photos, videos, tours, track plans, product reviews, expert advice, and modeling techniques. Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine - 2000+ pages of quality model railroading articles, including N scale model trains and layouts, with 100+ new pages added monthly -- all free! Timberline Scenery - Proudly introduces "Smashed Trees" tree kits, the same quality as original Timberline Pines at a fraction of the cost.
Arnold N judge one 160 example railroad line Shop Hornby pose railroad Scenery Town Scenery includes houses sheds modeling Gaugemaster Our novel range of backscenes leave play dimension and perspective.
The layout is DCC, however I did not factor in the cost of a DCC controller - this could just as easily be done in DC WITH a controller included in the price tag. I was careful with this costing, and purchased everything second hand to keep the costs down. The locomotives cost approximately half of the budget - and even then that was a bargain for 4 locos!
Ballast is chinchilla dust purchased for pennies from a pet store, and the greenery is basically what fell off my first layout as I was building it.
All the buildings are made from card and photographic texture papers from Radical Flats as well as online. The layout went to it's first show over the past weekend, where I traded in some unneeded N scale stock to a trader and had enough store credit to get a Bachmann DCC Sound Value RS3 and a couple of extra freight cars.

My next exhibition layout will be in O scale, as I've just received 3 freight cars and a caboose to go with the Alco RS3 and Plymouth Switcher I've already got. Daniel,if you press enter between each photo it will make them more defined and easier to view. Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above. The Y junction to the round the room tail chaser ( on the right hand side of my layout plan  (below) has always been a worry to me. I know some people quickly knock up sketch models in card to work out what looks best, but I can't do that very quickly.
Having satisfied myself that I have got the theory sorted, I'm focusing now on physical layout building before returning to the software side of things. The Christmas holidays has seen me return to the layout with enthusiasm; focusing on scenery and signals.
I decided to finish off the piece of layout between my field of cows and where the main line goes under the town. I wanted to include a small pond, the Metcalfe church I made some years back and have a go at some trees. The field between the church and the town is going to have a graveyard when I find the tombstones I bought a few years ago. One of the things I have learnt is that you should allow more than 20mm between rail and backscene. Adding the cess and a loco improved it further and the learning curve was well and truly underway. An imaginary development of West Bay near Bridport into a larger town, in the BR diesel era. British Railways steam era, four track main-line Southern Region station in an urban setting. Four track continuous run with a nominal 6 ft radius – accommodates most finescale stock.
I did a quick rework, but I'm still a bit at odds with the salvage, furniture, glass, and warehousing area. I am not disagreeing with you about a runaround often being nice to have (and I have one on my upstairs shelf switching layout), but it is not a necessity. Special attention is paid to modelling architectural details and to the effects of weathering.
He is well known at many of the major railway modelling exhibitions where he is especially renowned for his informative demonstrations and theatre presentations. I then cover this in plastic fly wire (mesh) that I get by the roll from my local hardware store, securing it with tacks or a staple gun. These tints are available from your local hardware store and are used to shade the cement renders used in housing and concreting. I now know what I am going to do with the access hole in the middle of my layout, a lake has all sorts of possibilities. I have followed your build as you have sent it in and your ideas have halped me a great deal. I dismantled my complete HO layout, boxed the track, trains, houses, put everything in a dry storag area. I overcame the problem by separating the flat,uphil and downhill sections and adding resistors in series with the power feed to each section as follows, no resistance to uphill, 2ohms to flat sections and 4ohms to downhill using 10watt wire wound resistors.
This free PDF is packed with modeling shortcuts, tips, and all the layouts you'll need to get up and running. Do it yourself and save over 50%, with sizes from 2" to 11" to fit any scale model railroad layout or diorama.
The sole exception being the boiler house and chimney which were purchased on eBay for around A?5. The weathering on the roof of the boxcar is spot on - lots of rust coming through the galvanized sheet. I decided to go the whole hog and install directional lighting as well as carriage lighting. Howver I can knock up models in the computer quite fast, so before I reach for the glue and the card I'm going to make a virtual model of my layout using google sketchup.
I'm thinking I'll build the town on foam board removable modules, so that I can lift them up for maintainance, or to reach a derailed train (god forbid). The gaps were keyboard spaces by the way, or seemed to be as they deleted just like separate spaces. I started to create one and  a couple of days later nearly fell off my chair when I accidentally and unknowingly started the fast clock and the sound of a diesel horn blasted out of my speakers. Can't resist though sometimes just starting a few schedules to watch RR & Co work its magic. As the signals is all wiring and PCB's and not very interesting to look at,so here is what I have been doing scenery wise.

So armed with some two pot epoxy resin, some DAS modelling clay, some cheapo chinese acrylic paints and a selection of woodland scenics gubbins, this is what I came up with. I'm really struggling to make the retaining wall in to the under the town tunnel look believable.
The only thing plant-wise I remember growing in that sort of 'junk' area was rose bay willow-herb, but that might be a little difficult to model specifically! Scratch-building techniques and materials, as well as ready-to-plant buildings and kits are covered.
Making Urban Buildings for Model Railways is David Wright’s second book for Crowood, his first being the highly acclaimed Making Rural Buildings for Model Railways. I use a chocolate brown for earth tones, and a terracotta for my Australian red desert scenes.
I then shape the foil to the contours I want, or leave the natural crinkle in the foil to generate a random pattern. For my colour coat I tend to still have a fairly “wet Brush” but I make sure it is not running into the cracks.
After seeing your layout, I am thinking of taking down what I have started and starting over. This gives me max power uphill with slightlly less on the flats and slower{braked}downhill without the need to constantly change the throttle.
I thickened the tower parapets with DAS clay and painted it, to try and make it look less cardboardy.
I was also struck by the backscenes and the way you created them with grey spray paint - they work very well. In addition to the buildings themselves, the author also considers the urban setting and infrastructure, and demonstrates how to construct roads and pavements, create authentic street scenes, and make realistic models that accurately reflect, for example, urban decay and dereliction. I learned to gradually block up the track and to be sure the train could run smoothing before making anything permanent. I created a track plan, made the framework L-girder, layed track, created mountains and I was about to start scenery. Both lake and creek are filled with Liquid Water (or whatever you choose) and then dry brushed. Photographic backscenes roughly xv senior high school x 10 feet inward length ideal for United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland OO bore model railways. I've been taking pictures as I go and will post them and a bit of description in a separate thread when time permits. I've put some ambient station noise in front of that now to give me a bit of warning and avoid heart attacks.
Finally, consideration is given to persepctive modelling, a concept that provides the modeller with an opportunity to make much better use of a limited amount of space.
These tints make undercoats more effective, but also, if the layout is chipped and damaged, then in stead of a white showing through, I get an earth tone, which looks less obvious and more realistic. A batch of that size will allow for 2 or three patches at a time, so have that much foil ready. It looks like you could come back to the front center of your layout and start the incline without messing up too much of your beautiful work. This is actually an older photo, I have sinced coloured it better and highlighted the splashes in White. It is all in the original box on a shelf in the closet in the back bedroom of the 2 br small house I live in.
PLUS you get quicker coverage, and better ability to work heavy textured surface such as plaster, or plaster fabric. Many will call this the main line, which will completely be constructed to go around complete layout. To your theoretical account Town and urban center scenes may require more attention to scale of measurement to make up scaled for OO good example railways N gauge modellers English hawthorn postulate n gauge model railway back scenes. Also, varying the amount of tint you use changes the shade of your plaster, which can create an effect all its own. Wanted strong enough to support a 200 pound person, it’s a platform not easily moved by one person. In 1985 I had one of Lionel’s NW 611J set with the engine,tender,and all 7 passenger cars.
Bolted the sections together, after leveling the ends of each section to make a more even train track run.

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