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If you use high-intensity led(s), the current is a lot higher and the goldcap needs a higher capacity, something like 5F or higher. I am not sure if this is being done right, but I have attached a location diagram for the electronic components for a constant lighting circuit (DC) (schematic attached) for installing 3 LEDs in an Athearn 200t Railroad Crane.
Not sure how much room you have, but I would try to go to a much higher value capacitor than 1000mfd.
The capacitor is 5V - 0.1Farad and the resistor for three LEDs would be around 280 to 320 ohms.
In comparison, a 1000uf capacitor = 0.0001Farads - so my capacitor has 1000 times the capacitance in the physical size of a stack of five dimes. Alan's revised drawing looks right to me and he is correct about the labeling and wiring of the rectifier. Yes, the linked picture does have the resistors in series and should be corrected as revised above. I would not recommend using a 16V capacitor in a device powered by 12V DC or DCC powered track. You can add pretty much any size capacitor, it all depends on how large a drop-out you are protecting against. At present I am wiring the limiting resistor to the positive terminal, to the LED, and on to the ground.
The LED itself should protect the circuit from reverse voltage since it is a diode and will only allow the current to travel in one direction.


The red wires go to the track voltage from the wheels and the black and white wires signify positive and negative current for the LED's.
You can do it without the bridge just need 1 diode (2 would be better) a must for the cap to not be back feed reverse voltage. Yes, Ssean and Gunrunner are correct but the nice thing about the contraption I made is that it works equally well with DC and DCC plus the bridge only costs $1.39. Could someone take a look at the 2 images and let me know if things look okay, before I warm up my soldering iron? The trick to using the 5 volt capacitor is to place the resistor between the rectifier and the capacitor, not the capacitor and the LED. The feed for the resistors can be located anywhere along the circuit as long as it doesn't bypass a resistor.
The EMF spikes of any motor driven by the same track can easily exceed 16V and kill your capacitor. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. I thought that you could wire the capacitors positive side to the positive track voltage, negative side to the limiting resistor, the limiting resistor to the anode of the LED, and the LED cathode to ground. This not only keeps the LED constantly lit, but it buffers out any fluctuations in the track voltage or polarity. This was used on DCC track but it will also work on DC track to keep the polarity constant for the lights.


The resistor limits the voltage to the capacitor to the same voltage required for the LEDs, which is well below the rated 5 volts.
I got a Radio Shack bridge rectifier, that only has the (+) labeled on the top of the component, but the rear of the package shows the (-) and the two other wires on each side. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).
And like GRJ states you must put a diode in the circuit to stop reverse current if you?re going to directly hook an LED to track voltage.
There was not much of a selection of capacitors when I went to the Shack, so I got one that was 35V vs the 20V shown on the schematic I used. You might consider locating all of the discrete components together (for ease of assembly) and then run only wires to the LEDs. I've seen CLU's for sale on Ebay for around $10 + shipping but I already have the LED's (3 to 3.2 volt) and the resistors (820 ohm) and just need the capacitors. This greatly reduces light flickering and light remains on no matter what direction the train is traveling.



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