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The hobby of model railroading is dedicated to constructing operating miniature scale models. It seems that getting started with scenery poses one of the most common road blocks to enjoying the hobby.
The best way to learn about making scenery is to start small and develop the necessary techniques in a manageable size before trying to completely scenic your entire layout. Step 2:?Since the station needed a raised platform, one was built in place using strip wood from our wood stores and the decking provided in the station kit.
Step 3:?Static grass and gravel are added over the earth to add additional layers of texture to the base (See page S13 for more detailed information on how to apply static grass).
Step 5:?The last step in finishing the station scene was to dry brush and weather some of the details.
Landscaping on your model railroad will really come alive when you use static grass as part of your ground cover. Step 2: Since the grass applicator works by generating a static charge to be effective it will need to be grounded to the layout.
Step 3: Spread the scenic cement mixture over the area that is to be covered with static grass. Step 4: Vacuum up any loose grass from the area recently covered and lightly spray the area with an inexpensive pump hair spray (see photo at the beginning of this section). No one item brings a model railroad or diorama to life than the addition of realistic and detailed ground cover. No one item brings a model railroad layout or diorama to life than the addition of realistic and detailed ground cover. Adding ground cover consists of a series of steps where consecutive layers of color and texture are added to a scene.
The first layer of the ground cover process is accomplished by sealing and painting the competed terrain base. With the earth layer dry, it is time to move on to the next step but first one needs to choose a season. In addition to the low ground cover, ballast, cinders and loose gravel are now added to the track work, lots and road ways.
Once dry, all of the elements were tied together with a dry brushed coat of light tan acrylic paint. The last stage involves adding vehicles, people and placing buildings on the finished landscape. Permanently mounted scenes for home layouts can be successfully completed with primed and painted sheet rock, while portable pikes and modules have used nearly every type of material. A Little Nebulous:? While a sunny clear blue sky is great for rail fanning or taking a road trip, clouds inevitably show up on the horizon. Purple Mountains: The illusion of far-off mountains is easily added in much the same manner as the clouds. Smoke and Mirrors: One frequently used technique to trick the eye and make a layout appear larger is to use a mirror mounted on the back drop. The Third Dimension:?Careful blending in low relief structures and scenery against the back drop will create the illusion of distance and depth. One the most often overlooked scenic detailing projects is the painting and weathering of track work. Step 5:?Wet the entire track area with a fine misting spray bottle, then apply a thinned mixture of scenery cement one drop at a time over the ballast. Step 7:?At this stage highlights are added by dry-brushing the entire right of way with light colored acrylic craft paint.
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Rapido's models of the Osgood Bradley lightweight coach represent a superb rendition of a badly-need prototype in HO scale. The Osgood Bradley Company was founded in 1822 to build carriages and stagecoaches in Worcester, Massachusetts.
During the Depression years, several railroad car manufacturers joined the automobile industry in producing streamlined designs that were in fashion with the public. The New Haven Railroad, which was by far the largest purchaser of these cars, took delivery of the first order in 1935, numbered 8200-8249. Subsequent orders, numbered 8270-99, 8300-49 and 8350-69, were built in 1936 to 1938, following a slightly different configuration with 11 windows and 92-passenger capacity. Although there have been other efforts to model these cars over the years, Rapido’s long-awaited product marks the first ready-to-run version in plastic, and the first ever to accurately capture the subtle tubular cross-section of the carbody. The cars operated well on my layout with one 24-inch radius curve, but the instructions recommend using the long-shank couplers provided for any tighter curves. The interior detail includes tiny round mirrors on the end bulkheads and seats molded in a color very close to the blue mohair upholstery on the original Heywood-Wakefield furnishings. My only quibble with these otherwise superb models is Rapido’s Macdonald-Cartier couplers, which proved unreliable in operation, even with the addition of graphite lubricant. Rapido makes available separately the excellent four-wheel passenger trucks used on these cars, in both friction and roller bearing configurations.
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Copy and paste the following HTML code and you will always have the most recent cover of this magazine on your site. Walthers is now adding several new car types to their initial series of six Pullman heavyweight passenger cars introduced in 2004-5.
As passenger train speeds increased and air conditioning became more prevalent, the traditional open platform observation car began to lose favor as patrons sought more comfort and safety, and the railroads sought space that was usable in both fair and foul weather.
Plan #3975C was for cars with a 3-compartment, drawing room, buffet, lounge, sun room configuration (some of the other #3975 versions had just 1 or 2 compartments, and some of the 1 compartment cars had a barber shop). The interior details of the Walthers car shows sharp, defined construction from individually applied pieces, raising the bar in current passenger car model offerings. These ready-to-run cars use the same modular parts design Walthers introduced on the first series of cars. A benefit of this design is that Walthers can customize these cars to a wide variety of specific prototypes.
Another feature of the Walthers cars is that they come factory ready to accept a choice of lighting systems.
The reviewers' experience with several cars of the original series, as well as with this new solarium car, was that the car interior vestibule bulkheads and some of the interior partitions are too tall to allow the roof to nestle back down against the car sides with the lighting unit installed. These are excellent models of heavyweight passenger cars with specific, identifiable prototypes. Getting in the right frame of mind is the most important part of completing one of these kits.
It does not matter whether you choose an old kit that has been tucked away in the closet for years or buy a new kit that is currently in production, the basic steps will still be the same. For our project we have chosen a model of the Lindsey Brothers 34’ box car currently available from LaBelle Woodworking.
Experience has shown that the first stage in building a rolling stock model should be the laying out of and assembling the under frame. When constructing a rolling stock model or a lineside structure, inevitably we are constructing a box to which we will gradually add details to. Most craftsman kits require the builder to build up the side sheeting from several pieces butt glued together.
With the paint completely dry, trucks, stirrup steps, a stained roof walk and couplers are added to the model. Applying decals is considered by some a dying art form, however, be assured it is alive and well, and with the advent of computer-generated artwork, making a strong comeback.
Micro-Set – Also a Microscale product, Micro-Set is a softening solution that when applied to a positioned decal softens the decal film and allows the transfer to conform to the surface. Since scribed siding has deep grooves machined into it and the provided decals are fresh, Solvaset is used predominately on the box car model to help the decals conform to the undulating surfaces. Begin the decaling process by cutting each of the decals for a side trimming as closely to the printing as possible with a sharp pair of scissors. Dip the decals in water and allow to stand for about a minute or two so that the glue on the back of the film completely releases.
When you return to the model you will notice a number of trapped air bubbles under the decal. Using a brand new, sharp single edged razor blade carefully slice through the decal film where it has not completely settled into the wood scribing.
The last step of building the model is applying a final clear coat over the entire project.
The major difference that sets this hobby apart from the others is that the ultimate goal is to operate our railroad models in a realistic, animated scale recreation of the environment. Since most of us get started with a small, usually flat layout, the focus of this supplement will concentrate on tips that use some of the many new and easy to use products for adding ground cover along with some of the basic details to develop a fully sceniced layout or diorama display. One of the best ways that one can get started is to build small scenes that can later be incorporated in to a larger layout.
A mixture of proprietary detail parts and prefinished figures are rounded out with the addition of a scratch built ball signal assembled from some string, Grandt Line HO scale 60” sheaves and strip wood. Work a transparent coat of Payne’s gray oil paint into the folds and crevices with a stiff brush. Once dry, apply earth over the base by sifting loose material onto a coat of thinned scenic cement. The easiest way to assure a positive ground is to drill a small hole at the edge of where the grass will be placed and insert a small screw to act as a grounding attachment.

This is easy obtained at most dollar stores and does not need to be the top of the line product.
Regardless of the type of terrain, this relatively inexpensive step of the building process will do more to create the overall look of realism and scale fidelity to one’s own modeling. Regardless of the type of terrain your railroad operates through, this relatively inexpensive step of the building process will do more to create the overall look of realism and scale fidelity to one’s modeling.
This not only will provide consistent color should some of the later scenery items be chipped by handling but will also serve as a good base for scenery adhesives to adhere. While most modelers’ choose the height of summer, the wide array of seasonal scenery products currently available will allow for layouts to be effectively sceniced to represent every location and season. For smaller scales, ground foam will work convincingly to achieve the proper appearance; however, in HO and larger scales this look is better captured using static grass products.
This technique helps blend the colors of our base scenery and provides artificial highlights. A simple backdrop is also added to enhance the perception of size and depth to our 2’ by 4’ layout (See page S10 for more information about how to make easy and convincing backdrops for your layout).
The back drop can be mounted at the rear of the bench work along the wall or can divide a layout into different scenes by acting as a scenic divider. Popular materials range from Masonite or large sheets of styrene to sealed and primed plywood.
Apply the light blue color from the horizon line to about a third of the way up on the back scene. Clouds can easily be added either free hand or using cloud templates using a spray can of flat white or white primer.
Photographs of buildings mounted on black foam core are quick and easy additions that will allow the modeler to create a convincing urban scene. Spraying the paint from either an aerosol can or airbrush is usually the easiest and quickest way to apply the paint, however, the track can also be painted with a brush with good results.
Apply a mask along the tracks and run a bead of scenery cement along the outside edge of the ties. With the assistance of industrial designer Walter Teague, Osgood Bradley developed an aircraft-style tubular carbody with a rounded roof end utilizing Cor-Ten steel, a lightweight copper-steel alloy that reduced weight by nearly 15 tons over conventional construction.
They featured center-duct air conditioning and had a 10-window configuration with a seating capacity of 84. A third group, numbered 8500-29, followed the 10-window configuration, but with a coach seating capacity of 64 and a 16-seat smoking lounge at one end. Several of the car configurations were repeated when the New Haven returned to Osgood Bradley for their post-World War II streamlined fleet.
Their first effort is the 10-window coach, offered in several pre- and post-World War II paint schemes for the New Haven, B&M and BAR with and without skirts as appropriate to the prototype and era. I would also suggest that the small notches in the underframe be enlarged slightly to prevent the trucks from binding.
The cars are equipped with Rapido’s “Easy-Peasy” LED lighting system, which provides a reasonably even level of illumination through the car. In addition, the coupler swing springs are mounted upside down for optimum delayed operation. One would hope that the end gates will become available separately as well, along with the 11-window cars (and the squared-off roof used on the Lehigh Valley cars). A magazine subscription is the perfect gift which lasts all year round!Gift an Account VoucherYou can now send a gift for an account voucher. If so, please enter your email below and we will let you know if this issue becomes available and you can then decide to purchase it or not. You can also scroll back and zoom through old covers, making this a great way of adding novel content to your blog or website.
Basically, they can be viewed as a scratch-built model where all of the parts and instructions are provided in one convenient box. Start with a basic kit and progress to more complicated models as your comfort level increases. For those looking to get started, LaBelle Woodworking or Ye Old Huff n’ Puff offer some nice wood kits in both O scale and HO scale. While at first glace the model would appear to be a rather common prototype, it has several unique features. This is particularly the case if the model has truss rods that will need to be secured inside the car body. At this stage the end blocks are glued to the under frame and the roof stock is then assembled on top of the end blocks. Whether you use spray cans, hand brush or air brush a model you can get good results if you take your time and use some patience. This is also a good time to check all the mechanical features such as coupler heights, truck swing, etc. Like every other step in this project, success with decals is a matter of taking your time and being patient. Microsol lets the water that the decals are soaked in better penetrate the ashesive on the decal. Best used on older decals with heavier film stock, it can be used with newer decals if used sparingly.
Micro-Sol should be brushed onto the decal as well as on the surface of the model that will be decaled. Try to remove as many air bubbles as possible by brushing over the surface of the decal with a soft brush dipped in Micro-Set. Once all the decals have settled down to your satisfaction and have had a chance to dry, use a cotton swab with a little window cleaner to remove any decal glue residue from the model. For freight cars you will probably want to spray the entire car with a flat lacquer such as Testors’ Dullcote. In many ways this addition of the scenic component to our modeling allows the railroad hobby to be so engaging.
This is a great way to learn how to use and apply the various products and decide which methods you like best.
While static grass can be applied loose over a layer of scenic cement, superior results will be achieved by using an applicator tool. Over spray the scenic material with water mixed with a couple drops of dish washing detergent. Once the glue has dried the screw is easily removed leaving a small unnoticeable hole that can easily be covered with a plant or other detail.
Happily, with the wide availability of scenery products, one doesn’t have to be an artist to create both attractive and believable scenery. By working with an autumn palette of these products small HO scale ‘Branchville’ switching layout is set in the mid-Atlantic region in late autumn – early winter.
Various heights and colors of static grasses and grass tufts were used to create Branchville’s fall fields. The forest floor covered with deadfall and decades of fallen leaves is one often overlooked scenic element.
There is a wide array of ready made trees available that replicate many seasonal types and species.
Nicely planned and executed scenery not only provides a realistic environment for our models but also enhances even proprietary models straight from the box. Many modelers shy away from adding a back scene to their layouts since they feel that a convincing one requires some kind of artistic ability.
Feather in the medium blue increasing the hue as the paint is applied near the top of the scene. The secret for successful clouds is to lightly apply paint to let the blue sky show through rather than try to get full coverage. Either mask off the outline of the mountains with painter’s tape and newsprint or use templates. Rock casting, clumps of foam and small trees affixed to a back scene are equally effective way to add perspective to a rural or mountainous scene. The small amount of time that is spent on this project will yield dramatic results, even making sectional and flexible track look like a finely detailed model.
The choice of color is up to you, as main line rails take on a some what greasy dark brown cast rather than the bright rusty rails found in sidings and branch lines. Once the highlights are dry, clean the paint off the top of the rails and remove any excess ballast from the sides of the rails and in the flange ways (opposite top). Railroad Model Craftsman is the magazine for the active model railroader with a high interest in fine scale models. The company developed into one of the major builders of railroad cars as well as trolleys and buses.
Additional cars of the same arrangement, numbered 8250 and 8252-8269, were delivered in the following year.
Finally, five cars numbered 5200-04 were built as grill cars in 1938 with the center windows blanked out, but were converted to 92-seat coaches by the railroad’s Readville Shops in 1952.
The operative word for these models is exquisite from the finely-detailed carbody to the underbody detail, where air conditioning, brake equipment and piping abound, complete with safety and brake linkage chains, to the exquisite (there’s that word again) see-through step risers and end gates. Painting and lettering is sharp and evenly applied, complete with “Watch Your Step” on the upper stair riser (how did they do that?).
The exploded diagram shows them the wrong way, so this seems to be a design issue, not a production problem.
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Even experienced model builders will turn tail at the sight of the seemingly hundreds of mysterious unidentifiable splinters of wood.

Once a couple of these models have been completed, the builder will have acquired all the tools and skills needed to take the plunge into scratchbuilding, super detailing and other advanced modeling activities. Firstly, the model represents a composite under frame car that has both truss rods and a steel center beam. Make sure that you understand this provided document, it will help you to avoid any missteps later. Measure from your plans and lay out the truck bolsters, queen post members and any other structural under frame pieces. Check the fit and size of these parts carefully since many times the pieces may be either under or over size. However, over time these pieced-together sides have a tendency to separate leaving wide gaps in the finished model. When all of the wood work has been finished, spray the entire model with another coat of sanding sealer. Also, you don’t necessarily need to use fancy model paints, all you really need is good quality flat paint. It also helps to brush a little Micro-Sol onto the surface of the model where the decal will be applied. Use a cotton bud to remove any excess water from the car side once the decal is in position.
Also the decal may not have completely conformed to the car’s side causing a condition known as silvering. To replicate the well maintained finish on passenger cars one may want to use a semi-gloss or satin finish such as Testors Model Master Semi-Gloss spray. Since nearly all of the popular scenery products follow an established color palette with complete instructions as to their proper application, there is little room for error. A Model A Ford was parked on the drive next to the station setting the time frame in the 1930s. This tool sets up a static charge that causes the grass fibers to “stand up”?adding another dimension of realism. In addition to this base color we frequently use a spray spatter paint to add additional texture to the scenery base.
Mix dark and light colors as well as greens, browns and tans to effectively capture the proper look. This can easily be replicated by applying a layer of ‘chopped leaves’ and small twigs to the forested areas. In addition to the bare trees, we were able to create some late fall trees using commercially available tree armatures with loosely applied poly fiber covered with a thin layer of brown and dark orange coarse foam. For small jobs spray cans available from the craft store make quick work of coloring the sky, for larger jobs tinted cans of flat latex indoor house paint will cover a large area easily and inexpensively. As with the clouds, lightly spray the mountain color so that the sky color shows through to add depth and shading to the mountains.
Mirrors are more convincing if they are installed perpendicular to the scene that will be reflected. Often spray spatter paint available from either a hobby shop or home improvement store will help add a layer of realism and finish to the right of way. Enjoy in-depth historical features as well as exciting layout tours that are sure to inspire you!
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It officially became the Pullman-Bradley Car Company in the early 1930’s after being purchased by the Pullman Company, although many continued to refer to it by its former name.
Some of the small steam and air brake components have never before been modeled commercially. They also provide a time-capsule look back into model construction practices from a different era. No matter what level of success is achieved, these kits are solid skill builders for any model railroader.
Not only will you make certain that all the parts are there, you will also get familiar with the parts and when they will be needed. As work proceeds the locations will need to be laid out for the various applied detail parts. In preparation for decaling the entire car body is sprayed with two coats of Testors Glosscote clear lacquer. By only applying the decals in this way you will minimize to chances of the decals sliding around and setting crooked. Poor decaling with silvering can ruin the overall appearance of an otherwise nicely built model.
This process may have to be repeated several more times until the decal fully conforms to the surface of the model. Some times decals will appear to be dry when some residual moisture is still trapped underneath their film. Gloss and semi-gloss finishes can be applied as one wishes, for example by spraying the roofs and under frames with a flat finish and the ends and side with a semi-gloss finish. Secondly, many hobbyists believe the materials are messy to use and techniques take years to master. A mixture of 75% glue with 25% water and a few drops of dish detergent or other wetting agent applied over the scene will hold the earth in place. These are available branded as Floquil Diorama Sprays from hobby retailers or in larger spray cans branded for several manufacturers from the local home improvement or hardware store.
Saplings which are common along rights of way and highways are frequently overlooked in model form. Once the blue sky is dry, one may stop at this stage or press on and add additional features to the scene.
Learn new skills and techniques from our regular contributors in scenery, freight car modeling, locomotive detailing, scratchbuilding, weathering and more!
The interesting accompanying booklet suggests that the modeler check the underbody detail for any loose components, and I would concur. For those cars already out there, just remove the small screw holding the coupler box and invert the spring so it faces downward. Probably their most important attribute is that wood is easy to modify to represent any number of variations on a theme. This is easily done by laying out the pieces and spraying with a lacquer-based sanding sealer available at most hardware stores. It is a lot easier to take extra time and care at this point than it would be later trying to patch a mistake.
Sand the brass wire with fine (400 or 600 grit) sand paper before installing these parts; this will allow paint to adhere better. A simple shop vac will handle any mess, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised to discover how easy the techniques to create realistic scenery can be.
Once the earth is applied over the glue, wet it with mist of water in a spray bottle, capillary action will draw the glue through out the layer of earth.
These can easily be replicated using premade “foliage branches” placed in random groups on the layout. The modeler is asked to add the fragile steam traps and steam line connectors, which are provided in a separate envelope to prevent shipping damage.
After inserting the batteries, I suggest putting the car on a flat surface to press the roof back into place. These kits were not designed to be built in just a few hours, but rather over several days a few hours at a time. Most of the smaller strip wood will have one or both ends marked with colored paint to help with their identification. However, if you get all of the necessary tools and adhesives together before you start it will save time and searching later. This structural reinforcement won’t be seen on the finished model and will add years of life to the project. You will want to hold off on adding the stirrup steps until after the car has been given a color coat to make masking easier.
By now you should have fully overcome your fear of stripwood, and be ready to tackle the next project! You may want to take some time to work up a list on a scratch pad to identify which piece of wood is used for which part of the construction. After cleaning up any blemishes on the model, re-spray with a light coat of primer and allow to dry over night. Some highlights were then air brushed over the basic color coat to enhance some of the details, however, this step is optional.
Oddly, the lights in one of my two cars turn on and off when passing over a Kadee under-track magnet. However, to be on the safe side you will want to let the sealed parts dry over night before proceeding further. There are a number of inexpensive gray spray primers available from various paint and hardware stores. All of them yield good results when sprayed on in light coats and allowed to completely dry.

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Comments to «Railroad model craftsman october»

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