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How to remove the smell of body odor jokes,how long to get over a urinary tract infection home,how to get rid of a zit quick and easy appetizers - Good Point

What Are Some Odor-Removing Uses for Baking Soda?There are literally hundreds of household uses for baking soda. Using Baking Soda to Remove Laundry OdorsBaking soda can help remove pungent odors from laundry even when they linger after repeated washing.
If this hasn't helped you remove cat urine odor entirely, repeat the baking soda process. After that new car smell wears off and is replaced by the smell of daily use, odors become a difficult task to remove from vehicles.
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!The Whirlpool belt-driven design is well over thirty years old. Fortunately, having been around for so long, the peculiarities of the design are pretty well known.3-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe design uses a single direction motor, with solenoids to engage and disengage the agitate and spin cycles and pump.
The cam bar moves towards the front of the washer, pushing the clutch bar and yoke upwards. Also check to see that the switch striker is not broken off. If this doesn't solve the problem, test for power at the left (spin) wigwag solenoid when in the spin cycle. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the washer and switch the red and yellow wigwag leads as shown in figure W-6. Test the switch as described in sections 3-4 and 2-6(b). Often one of the wigwag wires will break, usually very near the wigwag itself. Test for continuity through the spin solenoid circuit of the timer as described in section 2-6(c).
If the motor turns with no load, check the drive pulley and pump pulley to see which is locked. See section 3-15. If the centerpost (spin tube) bearings are worn, replacing the basket drive will not solve your noise problem. You will need to call a qualified service technician to replace the bearings, or simply junk the washer.
If the machine is making a squealing or groaning noise, the problem is more likely to be the basket drive. If it is more like a rattling sound, the centerpost bearings are probably worn out.A secondary check is to look at the clutch lining. However, most intermittent problems with these machines come from mechanical causes.For example, if the belt is loose, the machine may not spin sometimes, may not pump out at other times, and still other times it may not agitate.
The solution is obviously to tighten the belt (or replace it if it is badly worn.) Another aggravating and difficult to diagnose symptom is caused by worn cam bars.


The bolt can be replaced without removing the transmission, but it's a real bear of a job.3-4 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located in the control panel on top of the cabinet.
If you have a standard frame timer, mark the timer wires before removing them, so you can get them on the correct terminals of the new timer. Sometimes, the switch may burn out altogether and it will seem as if the machine isn't getting any power at all.
To remove the threaded cap or nut, hold the agitator (this will keep the driveshaft from turning) and unscrew. Figure W-13: Agitator Mounting Stud AccessBut what if the agitator splines are stripped? You can hold the agitator all you want, and the shaft will keep turning with the nut or the threaded cap. Here's a good confirmation of a stripped spline.
The nut will back off with each sweep of the agitator shaft. If you have a threaded cap, you can do the same thing by hand. Simply twist the ring counterclockwise to remove. The air dome is the fitting that attaches the water pressure switch hose to the tub. Loosen the motor mounting bolts and remove tension from the belt. Lean the washer back against the wall, following the safety tips in section 1-4. Rocking the pump away from the drive belt will help disengage the belt, and also the pump lever from the cam bar. DO NOT MOVE THE PUMP LEVER YET.Check the belt for wear as described in section 2-5(a), especially for burned or glazed spots where it rode over the locked pump pulley or motor drive pulley.
Replace the belt if it is worn, following the instructions in section 3-13. INSTALLATIONSet the pump lever in the same position as the pump that came out. Make sure the pump lever goes into the slot in the agitate cam bar, and install the mounting bolts.
Tension the belt as described in section 3-13. 3-11 WIGWAG AND CAM BARSThe wigwag is located inside the back panel of the machine. Replace the setscrew, making sure it goes in the hole on the wigwag drive shaft, and tighten securely. Normally, you will not need to replace the plungers, even when you replace the wigwag.
If you see that one is bent or the pin is badly worn, replace the plunger. The plungers can be quite difficult to replace. The pins that connect them to the cam bars are hardened and thus difficult to cut through. The first step is to remove power from the machine and cut through the pin. Sometimes it's easier to hacksaw through the body of the yoke than to cut the pin. Once you've cut through the pin, remove the wigwag as described above and replace the plunger, using the instructions that come with the new plunger. It keeps the machine quieter. To replace the spin cam bar, you must drop the transmission slightly as described in section 3-13.


To replace the agitate cam bar, you must remove the transmission as described in section 3-14.3-12 DRIVE MOTORSingle speed, two-speed and three-speed motors were used at different times in these washers.
This may be the cause of the belt breaking.REPLACING THE BELTUnfortunately, the belt is not easy to replace on this machine. To get the belt past the clutch shaft, you actually have to drop the transmission out slightly, and sometimes the transmission needs to be realigned afterwards. Hold the wigwag's "spin" plunger up and tap the spin cam bar towards the back of the machine. Then pull the transmission straight out until it stops against the bolts. 7) Remove the belt. The transmission should be just slightly loose, and all three bolts must be backed out the same amount. Set your washer upright and level. Make sure there is no water or clothes in the basket, and START THE WASHER IN THE SPIN CYCLE. Without moving the washer, tighten the three transmission mounting bolts beneath it as evenly as possible. They are pretty standard items; most appliance parts dealers carry rebuilt Whirlpool transmissions in stock. If you wish, you can replace the cam bars, T-bearing and ball as insurance against future problems. Two points to remember in exchanging the parts: 1) The drive pulley is originally assembled with a drop of glue on the setscrew threads.
You may need to heat the hub of the drive pulley with a torch to get the setscrew out. 2) To get the agitator cam bar out, you will need to lift the agitator shaft. The easiest way to do this is to remove the "T"-bearing ball and pry the shaft upwards with a screwdriver, as shown in Figure W-22. Installation is basically the opposite of removal.
Sometimes, the switch may burn out altogether and it will seem as if the machine isn't getting any power at all.



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12.03.2016, author: admin


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