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11.03.2016


Are you tired of monsters or unwanted other players coming down your tunnels full of precious Minecraft ore? Coriolus Versicolor has only been available in the US for a short time, but already it is making a huge impact.  Besides the existing 400 positive clinical studies, many by hospitals and research groups here in the West, there are new reports coming out weekly about how this product is slowly being understand and accepted by Western medicine. Our Policy on Comments, Testimonials and Blog Submissions: Co-publishers and affiliates of Build Your Immunity may post comments without moderation. I understand that everyone else in the world uses Metric, You can convert these numbers to MM and use 10mm aluminum rod and thread for the elements.
Due to many e-mails, I just want to state that I do not and will not manufacture these antennas for sale.
She modeled the antenna in various situations (mounted to mast, free space, free space with ground) and even published the NEC files for all to see. This is a 3-d wireframe of the pattern (in gray) with an outline of the vertical polarization. The UHF Side of the antenna doesn’t look so great when compared to the VHF side of the antenna. Even though I did not design this antenna, I often get e-mails from people who had trouble with this particular antenna. If you are unsure about cutting the elements to the proper length, it’s best to cut it a little longer and grind or re-cut the elements.
Wonderful build was able to hit many repeaters with it attached to a pole stuck in a sleave in my front yard. I was wondering if the antenna poles could be covered with electrical tape or any other kind of tape for camouflage?
I am currently looking to build this antenna but have run into a problem locating the aluminum rod in the length needed. I’ve build this antenna with the exact measures, but from hollow rods, with outer diameter of 101mm. The length of each element is given from the aluminum angle base to the tip, do I need to adjust for the length extending through and below the aluminum angle?
If I shortened the elements, drilled and thread a hole at the top, the added at brass bolt to adjust overall length. I built one, have it mounted to a 6.5 ft PVC inside the shop and can hit repearter 30+ miles away. I am a new HAM and have decide to give a try for better SWR with my homemade OSJ- pole antenna. My question is – does this re-design spoils the hall performance of this antenna regardless of the low SWR ?
Contact us with errors, copyright information, problems or suggestions to our plans or DIY info. The FT Mighty Mini Arrow is a fantastic choice for getting started in wing racing, combat, or simple FPV flight. To build the Arrow with the center pod, cut away the top surface of the wing along the referance line. You may need to trim your wing halve a little to get the perfect fit between the pod and the top of the wing.
The hole in the front of the Arrow can serve as both ventilation and a for the FPV camera to push through. Our hope is that this little wing will bring many hours of fun to your back yard, or to a race course near you! It's foam from the dollar tree foam, sometimes called DTFB (Dollar Tree Foam Board), they sell it in the FT store as well. If you search here for DTFB, you'll likely find a ton of information on it as this question comes up all the time for countries outside of the US. I'm in France and you can find Foam board (some times call foam core and "Carton Plume" in French) but it very expensive. Agree Depron is better than the Foamboard you can find in Europe, it is cheaper and lighter, I made a piece same size as the piece of DFTB and even with tape both sides it was still slightly lighter.
Whatever happened the FliteTest branded DFTB that Flitetest were supposed to be bringing to Europe for sale, that would be great. Exceptionally heavy in comparison, plans would need to be modified to get CoG correct and it would not fly anywhere near as good. I have built FT planes booth with the FT-foam and the heavier one we have here in Sweden and the all fly just fine. Actually I have built this FT Arrow and Flying Penguins F6F Hellcat with Ross board and to me it seems that Ross board is harder to peel the paper off than DTFB. In terms of paper size (A4, A3 etc) what size of foam board do I need to get that is big enough for the largest part of the plan? I either have to print them downscaled, or it parts of it gets placed outside the boarders, because of printer margins.


What size paper, American A4 is different to world standard A4, maybe its that, I always have issues with tiled. I might be going blind or can you help me in finding the CG on the scratch build plans please. Plans say 245gr all-up weight, but I wouldn't presume that includes FPV gear, and your electronics, build, etc may vary from theirs.
I've done this in the past when I figured out my printer can print A4-width pages up to 30 inches long; just re-arrange the parts to fit in an A4 width and tape pages together *before* feeding them into the printer.
Really cool-- as soon as I saw the video, I decided the mini-arrow would be my first pure scratch build. For all those users out there who want to print this on A4: I rearranged it and made it fit in total on 4x3 Sheets. Is the bottom of this airfoil supposed to be flat or is it supposed to have a slight curve? Cut out the main shape, tape it up on one side while still flat, trim the tape, and then cut the score cuts.
But I found a dutch website which is offering almost the same type of foam for a very reasonable price.
So, while printing the tiled plans, it seems like the images are off centered on the pages. I know there is plenty of info out there on FPV planes, but does anyone have any advice on installing FPV gear in this plane specifically? I'm thinking that putting the transmitter in one of the compartments is a Bad Thing, due to heat.
I have a Vector flight control system, i really like this wing and want to put this on something.
If using this plane for PFV, do you run the camera and video transmitter off the receiver battery? It is manufactured by the designer of this antenna and has them for sale on his website for a reasonable price. I’d strongly suggest to check out her website for the NEC files and other information that has helped me along in the hobby. In the perfect world, if that antenna was fed with 50 watts, it would effectively radiate anywhere from 60 to 150watts. If the antenna is not correct, some of the power sent to the antenna will come back to the radio. By looking at the blue line towards the top of the image, you will see that it has excellent SWR throughout the 2M band.
I helped troubleshoot a lot of the issues and found out that the majority of problems were in result of the person not following the instructions as listed on either my or Mr. Testing should be done with the antenna installed or at least mounted to a pole to simulate an installation. Much care should be taken to prevent water from getting into the threads of the SO-239 adapter or in the adapter itself. Some follow instructions exactly while others are creative and use what they have to make a working antenna. The one thing that stands out is that the angle he using to mount the elements is made from Galvanized dipped steal. They did a very nice job and they also found another source for the vinyl caps and provided clamping and installation photos of their antenna. He manged to run the antenna through a high end analyzer showing SWR results of both the VHF and UHF portions of the antenna. I live in Toledo, Ohio if anyone has any idea where I can locate it please post in the comments. Anyway I mount the antenna above the roof of my building and connect it with a feeder line of 20 meter, 8d-fb-50 ohm coax cable.
I’ve surprised that when double-lengthen the short stub( for the70cm band) up to 37 cm (about 14.5”) the SWR lowers to under 1,2 and 1,1 for the 144 Mhz band at the same time.
The 1806 is great for slower non FPV flight, while the 2204 makes this little wing a speedy FPV machine.
It's just that I'm from europe and looking for an industry standard name for that, like EPP or Depron. I plan to build this one also of this heavier foam and I expect it to fly just fine as well.
I really have to scrape the foam off once i get the bigger chunks off, which seem to break in pieces. It's very light, about 5mm thick, comes in 20"x30" boards for $1 each and is foam with paper adhered to both sides.
I am getting the scale printed off nicely, but each of my top row tiles is cut off at the bottom.


Try using the "fit to page" option instead of "actual size' or "custom scale 100%." This worked for me. This looks like a good candidate for a sub 250g fpv vehicle that won't require FAA registration due to weight. Just cover the outside of the wings with tape when it's still flat, and you can fold it just like the foamboard they use in the US. Inspired me to build my own using your profiles and Model Plane Foam, which requires a slightly different techniques. Modern rigs can see this and if too much power is coming back, the rig will step down in power to prevent damage to the finals.
It’s a nice wide band antenna and you will see how it differs from what 4NEC2 Predicted.
Some people were laying the antenna on the ground, holding it with their hand or placing it against large metallic items  (like a car) which will produce different readings. If you happened to cut it too short, it’s possible to use a coupler to adjust the length of the antenna but I would suggest re-making the element in question. Just for giggles, I hooked a Baofeng UV-5R and made contacts on a 440 repeater about 30 miles from my QTH. It seems also this change has improve the reach of a particular distant local 70 cm-band repeater .
Walmart sells Ross foamboard, pretty good, although the paper doesn't peel off as easily when that is needed.
I simply use coloured packing tape on one side then then cut out the plans, like that all the folds work etc.
I suspect there are differences in the flight characteristics between the arrow and the versa wing, but I don't know what those might be. I love making things from scratch, but I can see that a bunch of these might be super fun--so, some speed build kits are in my future!
Make sure to gently cut away the tape in areas where you glue to (mainly for the vertical stabilizers and fuselage on this model).
I am just trying to figure out the best way to power the VTX and camera in this plane, since I won't have a step-down board like I normally run on my quads. Things like the type and length of coax used, connectors used, nearby structures, type of ground and a bunch of many other variables factor into how well an antenna performs.
So if you see antenna readings in dBi, it’s in reference to a theoretical perfect antenna that radiates evenly in every direction.
It should factor in your shopping but you honestly won’t really know how an antenna will perform until you get it in the at.
Most common mistakes were people cutting the lengths short or people substituting the  materials called with others. At this point I have no SWR meter to analyze the coefficient.The antenna is working just fine with my Baofeng UV-5R, hitting most of the repeaters in the range and ensure very clear connections . I tried another homebrew, dual band j-pole dipole, at the same height, could not even key the repeater. Oh and by the way if you don't mind cutting the hatch off you can squeeze 3 and 4s 1300mah packs into this guy. What I was inputting into NEC was nothing near comparable to what I and some others have measured. There are times I hear that the J-pole is no different than a dipole or even a ground plane which is not true.
This antenna wouldn’t really be ideal for Sat use as there is a huge null and less gain when looking towards the sky.
Even though it’s rare, be prepared to install and remove the antenna multiple times while taking readings. It’s curious though, a more distant repeater in the UHF-band, which I open with the standard gummy-duck antenna from the same height can’t be open with this OSJ antenna after the feeder line. Somewhere I’ve read about this antenna, originally made successfully for 144 Mhz with two stubs only, is a compromise for 440 with the third stub.
I'm starting to use this board simply due to the strength, but for me its a bit difficult to find. The wiring on this plane seems so simple I am probably overthinking how to get the FPV gear power, and overlooking something stupid. C Bronson Crothers (AA1ZB) has talked about modeling the J-Pole and wrote quite a bit about it. It’s not as high when compared to the claims of large scale antenna manufacturers but considering the materials used, ease of assembly and use, I think this is a really good antenna.



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