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A simple, shop-made, table saw crosscutting jig, with two miter gauges, a fence and a stop block, will help you cut the dadoes for the cabinet's shelf. Mill the dadoes using your miter gauge, outfitted with a long auxiliary fence as a backup board.
Use a scrap spacer as the top and assemble the cabinet's side and bottom, joining them together with glue and counterbored wood screws, then add the top. Screw a knob (pieces 6) to each shelf, add a couple of coats of finish, and mount the cabinet to a wall stud with three long deck screws. Solid brass router reducer bushings make woodworking safer by closing up the opening in the base of your router to match the diameter of smaller bits.
Rolls out from the table saw extension wing and can raise up automatically to the table saws height providing a level working surface for extra long pieces of wood. GyroGearloose writes: Shelley, There is a motor inside the cabinet connected to 3 step-down pulleys.
The interior dimensions will store both a full-size plunge router and a standard-size router. With this cabinet located in plain sight on the wall, you can corral all your bits into one place, near your router table. I used a simple crosscutting jig made up of two miter gauges attached to a long fence board.
Instead of making a “box” from the parts and then installing the back to square it up, I attached the sides to the bottom with counterbored screws, slipped a spacer board temporarily into place where the top would go, and glued and screwed the back panel into its rabbets. I drew a grid pattern on each shelf and used a piece of scrap as a fence clamped to my drill press table. For template controlled operations such as dovetailing, stair routing, hinge butt routing, omni jig template, lock face routing and other general template operations. They also help reduce tear out, provide support for smaller workpieces and increase dust collection efficiency.
Mount our new cabinet on your router table base, wall or workbench using the keyhole slots on the back side of the cabinet.
Make sure to back these cuts up with an auxiliary scrap fence on the miter gauge to prevent splintering. Mark the fence to locate the center of the bit, then align your grid lines with it when drilling. A shim, installed between the outer blades of my dado set, gave me just the cutting width I needed for a good fit. Mill each dado on both side panels before setting up the next cut so the shelves will line up properly.
You could change the dimensions and add more shelves if you’ve got a really big herd of bits.
Chisel or saw them off nearly flush, then shave them down the rest of the way with a sharp block plane.
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Published at: Shed Blueprints