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Photos below show polyurethane foam being applied to the metro nightclub for roof sealing and noise reduction. Box gutters are being completely filled with polyurethane foam to create its own water runoff system. When you dry line the walls you could always stand the board off the stud with some strips of 12mm ply. BTW you can get xtratherm in 40mm too, which will be nearly as effective and would give you the gap. That shed has brick walls, isnt a shed defined as a free standing building needing no planning permission?
Nah, it means the circulating air can get the moisture out that condenses on the boards - if anything a drafty gap increases thermal losses.

I would allow a 25mm gap between the boarding and the insulation so that you have a free space for air movement. Can't remember off hand which insualtion code is which but there are three or four that all all the same insulation just different codes. Spray applied as liquid, polyurethane bonds tenaciously to the prepared substrate, eliminating the need for glues and fasteners.
Is this necessary or not, because the thinnest board is 50mm and my walls are only 50mm thick (without adding more depth to the walls, more wood, more cost).
Ensure that the membrane finishes outside of your lowest damp ingress point - for me, that would mean hanging below the top of the highest brick.
You find a sharp change in the air temperature at the surface which results in the air being unable to carry the moisture resulting in condensation.

This can be done via a cold or warm construction just a matter of the correct amount of insulation to ensure the dew point temperature is in the right place in relation to the structure. If shiplap then I don't see any need for a membrane behind but if feater edge then it would be adviseable. It forms a one-piece blanket of waterproofing insulation because the system is entirely self-flashing. It is highly suited to complex geometries, roof projections and externally mounted equipment.

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