Small woodshop dust collection units,how build a garage workbench,free woodworking blueprint software update - Review

04.03.2016


You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. It is no small thing that wood dust particles are carcinogenic, most likely due to the chemicals used to treat and preserve lumber against moisture, decay, termites, and fire, to name a few. To deal with getting wood dust out of the air and away from employees as well as motors and other mechanisms, woodworking dust collection systems can be customized for any wood shop, for the hobbyist as well as commercial shops. Duct size and type are important to maintain good air flow as well as to avoid corrosion, dust build up, and static electricity which can ignite dust and cause an explosion. I purchased my blast gates and quick disconnect fittings from my local Woodcraft store and started the assembly. I read that article you were linked to and was wondering if you decided to do any kind of grounding wire solution or forgo it all together?
I am currently rearranging my corner of the garage by adding a dust collector and will be doing some piping soon. I built my own woodworking shop dust collection system because I was tired of breathing in sawdust and dealing with the cleanup. The start to any dust collection system build you must first analyze your current and future dust collection needs. The second stage of planning is determining how many tools you would like hooked up and the distance that you will be covering. Now that the basic criteria for the system are in-place it is time to focus on the heart of the system, the central vacuum. Once the manifold was complete I mounted it to the wall using 2 ?” horseshoe brackets and a 2 x 6. The whole manifold system only has enough power to have one blast gate open at a time but this is not an issue because I only have a one man shop. Thank you for the article, very good advice I will be sure to think of when designing my new dust system in my new shop. Don’t have a shop now, but in the future I will certainly be referring back to this article to save some money!
We did a whole series of episodes on Blue Collar Woodworking about the importance of fine dust collection. The following three video reviews are intended to tell you what I like about the stuff, and be entertaining to watch. Speaking of duct tape … I have this sticky goo on the seat of my shorts from the duct tape curling on the edges of the repair on my torn car seat. I’d like to see read out from one of those slick little particulate detectors with that Rockler wall unit puffing away. I am a big believer that you need lots of airflow for fine dust collection at the source, as our dust collection series laid out. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. ShareTweetThere are two ways to install a dust collection system in a small shop: either use one large central unit with lots of ductwork or buy several small dedicated units that serve just one or two machines. One can generally trust the size of the port when determining the size of the branch line (the hose that connects the machine to the main duct). The first step in sizing dust collectors is to add up the requirements of all the machines in the shop that will be run simultaneously. If it’s a two-man shop, then add together the requirements of the two largest machines to determine the minimum size of collector needed.
Table saw dust collection on a cabinet saw is generally run though a hose connected to the side of the cabinet, but adding an overarm chute that also collects above the blade will dramatically improve dust control.
Air Handling Systems, which designs and sells ductwork and collectors, recommends that the velocity of the air should be about 4,000 feet per minute (fpm) in branch ductwork between the machines and the main duct, and a minimum of 3,500 fpm in the main duct.
While the factory ports on machines in large part determine the diameter of branch lines, sizing the main duct can be a little more precise. Going back to the initial question: should one install a single central unit or several dedicated smaller ones? The initial investment is an issue: nowadays, one can buy a pretty good high-powered cyclone for less than the cost of three or four separate and smaller units.
In my opinion the problem with the dust collector manufacturers is they could careless about the efficiency of the dust hoods on the machines, they just want to sell you a dust collector, and in some cases a cheap plastic, and poorly thought out dust hood. You have my dream shop, you did a wonderful job building it, I love the huge wall of windows, to let all the natural light in. Wood dust that is less than 10 microns in size is most dangerous to humans because it stays airborne longer, penetrates deeper into the lungs, and is the most difficult for the body to expel. The hood acts much like the hood over a kitchen range, capturing dust at the source, small and large, and drawing it into the collector itself. A 2-stage cyclone dust collector is the premium choice for woodworking shops due to its ability to filter fine wood dust and output quality air. A pleated filter is preferred for use with the 2-stage cyclone dust collector due to its ability to capture finer dust and keep airflow, air speed, and air volume to a max. For a safer, faster, more enjoyable user experience, please update your browser today or try a newer browser.
I’ve spent literally months planning out most of the details of my new shop, since before they broke ground.
What I discovered during the assembly was that the thicker-walled SDR35 was a significantly snugger fit for the pipe fittings. Today there is just too much research out there regarding the health issues associated with shop dust to ignore. What I mean by that is that you need to determine what tools you have that create dust and what tools down the road do you plan on adding to your collection that will also create dust. The world of vacuums is a tough one to navigate; you have HEPA vacuums, shopvacs, dust collectors and vacuum pumps.


As part of the build I located the shopvac in a separate room to keep the system quiet while in operation. With the fences properly setup on the router table the vacuum is powerful enough to collect over 95% of the chips and dust that are produced.   If you have any questions about this build please don’t hesitate to comment on the article. My shop is a one car garage so I’ll look into this once I add another circuit and get a dust collector. Given what we know today about the dangers of fine dust, the question is no longer whether to install a collection system, but rather which is the most efficient method. For example, a 4” hose will carry about 350 cfm, while a 5” hose will handle around 550 cfm. If it’s a one-man shop, then a collector that’s equal to or greater than the hungriest machine will suffice, as long as all of the machines have blast gates. If the ductwork to several machines is unrestricted (no blast gates), then the same volume of air will eventually pass through the ductwork, but at a much slower speed.
The theory behind the lower hose is that the inside of the cabinet acts as a plenum, creating a vortex that keeps dust airborne long enough to enter the hose and be carried away.
Most of us will rely on the collector’s manufacturer to tell us that number, as measuring it is a bit of a challenge unless one has an engineering bent and access to an anemometer or a similar gauge. Pick the machine farthest from the dust collector and start the main duct there at the same diameter as the port on the machine. Some of these parts are curved, some are vertical and others are made of differing materials (plastic, metal, etc.). A lot depends on the shop’s methods of work (lots of sanding?) and how many people work at the same time. Downdraft tables and ceiling-mounted shop air filters can go a long way toward eliminating contaminants, especially in a small shop. Most often it's sharpening, but I also use it for drilling, holding bench hooks and shooting boards and occassionally as a chop-saw station. CLICK HERE to purchase the Rockler Dust Right® Wall Mount Dust Collector and receive a free $50 gift card. The size and number of hoods needed is dependent upon the number and size of tables in the shop itself.
The overall resistance of your system as well as the airflow requirements needed by the largest tool or tools in the shop will help determine the smallest size blower necessary to maintain air quality within the shop. One of the features I was most anxious to include that I was unable to have in my shared garage space was an honest-to-goodness central dust collection system. Fortunately or Un- I was now also paranoid about what I could appreciate was the most dangerous aspect of my dust collection system — a smoldering fire in a collection bag. Also, while a special coupling is required to attach the blast gates to 2729, they fit perfectly in the green stuff. I still need to build the hoods for the RAS and CMS and work out the details of the fittings for the router table, which will likely take more time than the assembly time to date.
The bright side is that there are relatively easy and cost effective steps you can take to reduce or eliminate this health threat.   I decided that the most efficient way to eliminate the hazards associated with dust was to build a dust collection system.
For this stage I examined what I currently had: Router table, Plunge router, Sander, Jigsaw, Table sanding and Drilling. If you have allergies or asthma you may want to consider a HEPA vacuum to drive your system. The first and easiest method to setup would be to simply connect your dust extractor to your manifold and let the filter do the separating and simply empty the canister when it’s full. Since your design is most likely going to be significantly different there is no way to cover every option.   To start the dust collection build I purchased the Rigid 14 gallon WD 1450 shop vacuum and the Dust Deputy Deluxe kit. Since the vacuum is located in another room I mounted a Rockler Safety Power Tool Switch to the face of my work bench. But this is an option for those who don’t have the room or budget for a big cyclone and duct work, which includes 75% of the small shop, I bet. To get to that number, one must first understand the relationship between the speed at which air travels through a collection system (velocity) and the amount of air being moved (volume). That’s measured as a combination of speed and volume, which is expressed in terms of cubic feet per minute (cfm). In the chart above, a shop could have one of each of those machines and a dust collector that can handle 800 cfm will theoretically be big enough to handle everything as long as only one machine at a time is being used.
The slower air moves, the less efficiently it carries a load (that is, it keeps particles in suspension).
For example, miter saws are rated at 350 to 400 cfm based on the diameter of the dust collection port, but many of them have restrictions inside the blade guard that cut down the volume of air, so a 4” diameter port on a miter saw is usually less efficient than the same size outlet on a jointer. These resources will walk a shop owner through cyclones, static pressure, filter bag options and a host of other topics that can help improve the dust control efficiency.
The electricity to run one small unit at a time is less expensive than it is to fire up a big 10-hp motor whenever a single saw cut is made.
And if a motor breaks down, having several smaller units means that there are more options and less downtime. And portable power tools that come with efficient built-in collection, such as Festool’s orbital models or Grizzly’s G0538 spindle sander, can virtually eliminate dust at the source. Just set up a few Z-brackets around your shop or house to create dust-collection stations wherever you're working.
Heavier particulates settle into a drum or bag (stage 1) before reaching the filter (stage 2). So, while the 2729 is a bit cheaper and much lighter, I save money overall with the SDR35 since there are no adapters needed to fit the blast gates to the pipes. While there are other commercial systems such as the Jet dust collector system, I decided it would be cheaper and just as effective to build my own. The number of tools was a concern however because I will most likely want more than one tool hooked up to the system at a time.


The advantage of using HEPA is that you are going to eliminate virtually all pass through of dust to the exhaust port of the vacuum. The drawback to this method is that your filter will need cleaning and replacement often and the cost will add up over time. Once I had the dust extractor and separator in-place I was able to design the dust collection fittings specifics of the manifold system.
This remote switch allows me to run the shop vacuum to the switch and then just plug the switch in the wall.
And I also benefit because Rockler uses the videos on their site which introduces more people to Blue Collar Woodworking.
But before we go there, keep this in mind: most small dust collectors use filters to scrub the air before returning it to the shop. Below are some rule-of-thumb figures for various small-shop machines (check your owner’s manuals for more specific data). A ribbed plastic one that droops or turns a corner is less efficient than a straight, smooth-sided metal duct, for example.
They also create two different kinds of waste: a jointer creates heavy chips that are gravity-fed down through the housing of the machine into a dust collection port that is essentially mounted on the bottom.
This “resistance” is measured in static pressure loss and dust collectors are often rated using this number. However, emptying the bags on several small collectors can be time-consuming and that costs money, too. I have been reading about post & beam, but I am stuck with the foundation, seems there are many different ways to do them.
Finer particulates are captured by the filter and what doesn’t cling to the filter is deposited into a canister. Editing of the time-lapse is ongoing and I will be posting the completed video when the job is done, natch. For me I decided to go with a dedicated 2 ?” line to my router table and then 2 additional ports for handheld tools that would be connected to the system. If you’re looking for raw CFM’s and you will be pulling a lot of dust and chips through your system or you will have long pipe runs then a dust collector should be considered. The second method that can be considered is to use a bag in your dust extractor to collect the dust and chips. For the manifold I chose to keep everything in the 2 ?” realm since that is what the ShopVac and Dust Deputy are setup to accept. I did not use an automatic power sensing switch because I wanted to be able to use multiple tools in the system at the same time. Such a system will leave several times as many fine particles in the shop (both airborne and on surfaces) as a large commercial collector that vents to the outside and constantly introduces fresh makeup air.
A miter saw creates fine, lightweight dust that is sucked up against gravity through a top-mounted port. In our shop, we added an air hose fitting to the side of one saw, so we can blow compressed air into the housing as the vacuum is running (see photo). For example, Grizzly Industrial advertises its G1029Z2P 2-hp collector as having 1,550 cfm at 11” of static pressure.
For me, I have a small shop and small demand for my collection system so I opted for a 14 gallon Rigid shop vacuum to power the system. This method keeps your filter from getting clogged but you do have the cost of the bags which can be $5-20 each.
I sourced all of the manifold components from Rockler because they have a great selection of 2 ?” accessories.
So I did some testing and I think the Rockler Dust Right system is the best option for a number of reasons.
Unfortunately, it costs a lot to heat or cool all that makeup air, so basic economics tend to remove that option for many small woodworking shops.
It doesn’t completely solve the problem, but it does help quite a lot by dislodging compacted sawdust. In fact, I was pretty darn certain that I couldn’t plan this out to the last screw in advance of ordering the materials. Being able to separate the two largest contributors of dust and chips allowed me to customize my system and cater to just my finishing tools. I just knew I’d get half-way done with the install and either change my mind or realize I needed some other type of fitting(s) to finish the job. Maybe I will in the future add table saw and miter saw dust collection systems based on the success I had with this build.
I opted for a Dust Deputy separator for my system but there are several out there to choose from. The optional 5-micron replacement bag offers the same size and capacity as the original, but with much finer particle retention.
The cyclonic force separates out dust and chips into a separate receptacle, in my case a 5 gallon plastic bucket. These ports allowed me to easily connect Bosch and other brands standard vacuum hoses to the manifold.
I have been using mine for several months now and the separator has collected over 99% of the dust and chips before they reach the vacuum.




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Published at: Backyard Shed



Comments »

  1. Ledy_Klan_A_Plan — 04.03.2016 at 16:56:16
    Roofing, this time right-facet up, with private and.
  2. OSCAR_DELA_HOYA — 04.03.2016 at 10:11:45
    Energy and courage to press forward and produce for a workout.