Attach the partitions to the bottom of the topper, and to the side and end trim pieces as shown above. Ensure that the two sides are mirror images of each other, with the back panel grooves located on the inside faces of the rear stiles. After the entire cabinet is dry, you’ll need to reinforce the joints between the bottom panel and the sides.
The base is built to cradle the bottom of the cabinet on three sides, supporting the back of the cabinet completely on a solid strip. Begin by cutting the base front piece and two base side pieces to size according to the materials list. Apply a thin layer of glue on the front of the edging at the front of the cabinet, then slide the base in place and clamp it flush at the front and back. The doors have a simple half-lap design and feature square pegs to help lock everything together.
The mullions interlock with more half-lap joints, but these ones are a little more finicky to cut because they’re small.
For a simple, attractive finish, I chose three coats of Minwax tung oil applied over as many days. Cutting Instructions: After cutting your wood and before assembly make sure you sand, sand, SAND!
Note: Know that the pocket holes will be on the inside of the changing table, therefore, you should choose the uglier sides of your wood to be on this side. With the top rails flush with the outside top corners of the side panels, attach with 2? pocket hole screws as shown. Attach the top with four 2? pocket hole screws in the back rail and 2? wood screws through the 2?2?s as designated by the arrows in the picture. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.
Note: Sometimes when I take screenshots I get excited and if its not aligned just right it can give you that slanted look.
Big enough to seat six or small enough for two, this table expands to fill a dining room or shrinks to fit a cozy breakfast nook.
Learn more about this downloadable woodworking plan which includes step-by-step instructions, a materials list, a cutting diagram, and how-to photography.
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Woodworking forum, Woodworking talk is a free forum for wood workers to discuss wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, and everything related to woodworking.. Use 2? screws and glue unless you have a Kreg Jig™ and you can fasten the end trim from the insides. Fasten the trim to the legs to for extra support on the shelves from the outside of the leg or use a Kreg Jig™. Once the glue is dry, level the solid-wood edging with neighbouring plywood using some sandpaper around a sanding block or a sharp hand plane. To start, cut four stiles and four rails, then install a 1″-wide dado blade in your tablesaw.
Cut mullion pieces to length, then lay them out on your bench and mark locations for the joints. Once the finish is fully cured, rub the entire cabinet with #0000 steel wool, then apply two coats of paste wax buffed to a subtle sheen. Make sure to notice that the middle shelf has three pocket holes, one at each end and one at the middle of the X (this is not the center). The two boards on the right in the picture should actually have the holes on the opposite side (But I can’t show that now can I?). Coming from an engineering background I am use to using different tools to get the same job done as Ana so that's why this plan looks a little different. With the leaves up, the table measures 48" wide by 60" long, and with the leaves down the table measure 31" wide. With a sacrificial backer board to reduce tearout, cut the first half of each tenon in two passes. Test-fit the parts, and once satisfied with the fit, it’s time to drill holes for the shelf supports. With a small brush or stick, spread the glue inside the grooves so it’s on all three surfaces, then insert the rails into one stile, slide the panels in, then attach the other stile. I prepared these by tilting the blade on my tablesaw and using a mitre gauge to support the wood.
Next, apply a thin layer of glue to the mitre faces and spline grooves on the base sides as well as on the ends of the base rear piece.
The grooves should prevent most squeeze-out, but any that does occur can be removed easily from the glass with a razor blade after it has fully cured. Make sure the back of the shelves are flush with the back of the side first and mark where your pocket holes should go. Attach the front top rail permanently with a couple of pocket-hole screws per side, orienting the rail so the pocket holes are on the top face. While you’re at it, make plenty of extra mullion stock in case some break during the next step. You’ll get perfect squares every time–just make sure you remove the auger bit from the centre of the mortiser chisel first.
Place the glass into the rabbets in the door frames, and hold each piece in with glazing strips. My inspiration for this DIY changing table came from the Pottery Barn Belmont buffet and if you want to build that take a look at Ana White’s plans for it. Smooth this edge with either a hand plane or some 150-grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. I then clamped the template centred on the stiles and marked each hole with a centre punch to keep the bit from wandering when I start drilling.
Put glue in the grooves and on the two ends of the plywood base and insert the plywood back panel into the bottom groove.
Apply glue, and position so it is flush with the top surface of the ply and overlaps the front edges of the sides completely. Mill full-length grooves on the inside edges of the stiles, then, without changing your machine set-up, lay the rear stiles, inside face down, and mill another full-length groove on the inside rear face of the rear stiles to accept the back panel. Once all hole locations are marked, attach a temporary fence to your drillpress table and bore all shelf-support holes. Next, slide the side assemblies over the edges of the back panel, keeping the bottom of the sides flush with the bottom of the plywood. Install the front rail and clamp everything together, check for square, then allow the glue to dry.
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