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GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running.
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Now PlayingDivertimento2005 ford f150 hub poppingpopping noise behind dash 2006 chevy impalaemachines monitor volume keeps popping up: 1. Natural cures for sebaceous cysts include homeopathic remedies, vitamins, herbs and hot compresses.
Natural remedies for sebaceous cysts provide gentle, inexpensive healing options, often helping you avoid an uncomfortable medical procedure. Moist heat: According to PubMed Health, moist heat such as an unplugged moist heating pad (never use a plugged in heating pad with moisture) or warm cloth compress can be applied to sebaceous cysts to help encourage draining and healing. Tea Tree Oil: The National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine (NCCAM) suggests that tea tree oil has strong anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Aloe Vera: Some naturopaths recommend the gel of this plant as a cure for sebaceous cysts because it's believed to fight bacteria and relieve pain. Immunity Boosting Nutrients: A strong immune system helps the body heal sebaceous cysts on its own. Get Adequate Rest: Too little sleep weakens the immune system and can lead to many problems.
Reduce Stress: Some natural healers believe stress increases the chance of sebaceous cysts. The cyst shows signs of infection such as inflammation and redness, or it becomes hot to the touch. Next, the doctor will express the contents of the cyst to drain it and the area is cleaned. Depending on the location and type of cyst you have, a doctor may choose to vaporize it with a laser. Fortunately, sebaceous cysts are more annoying than dangerous, and trying natural remedies and lifestyle changes is often all it takes to relieve symptoms. Hinged quadrate articulation to the rest of the skull is hinged, allowing the quadrate to rock back and forth.
Dermal bones of the skull roof meet in a straight line that forms a hinge This is functionally similar to the intracranial hinge of basal sarcopterygians.
This feature enables the snout to rock up and down slightly with respect to the braincase and posterior skull roof. Origins: In the ancestral saurian, the opening of the ventral margin of the infratemporal fenestra to the outside has to have weakened the temporal region. The ancestral squamates, in contrast opted to control and exploit the incipient mobility of the skull elements. Jaw muscles exert maximum leverage over the jaw when they are pulling perpendicularly to the jaw. So far, by "jaw muscles" we have meant the muscles that originate on or near the braincase and insert on the jaw.
By being able to rotate around its articulation with the skull roof, the quadrate can mechanically be coopetd into the jaw (almost). Thus, when the jaws are wide open, the palatal muscles pull powerfully, rotating oth the quadrate and the jaw around the quadrate- skull roof joint.
These groups appear in the Early Jurassic, with essentially modern looking forms occurring in the Cretaceous.
The champs are chameleons, in which the tongue can be projected more then the length of the torso. Mosasaurs, a particularly spectacular scleroglossan group, appeared and thrived in the second half of Cretaceous, but were extinguished by K-T extinction.
A look at the quadrate of Tylosaurus (right) clearly shows the apomorphic squamate quadrate. All agree that mosasaurs are monophyletic and derived from "Aigialosaurs," a paraphyletic group of semi-aquatic medium-sized scleroglossans.
Limblessness: The loss of limbs has occurred at least three separate times in Scleroglossa, whereas it is unknown in Iguania.
Gila monsters: Potent tissue destroying venomous saliva which enters the mouth during a relatively (for a squamate) powerful bite. Varanids: Harmful bite effects have been attributed both to venom and to sepsis from oral bacteria.
Mosasaurs: Fossil bones show pathologies resulting from infection of bites by other mosasaurs. For over a century, these animals, with their extreme derivations, have stimulated a debate about the ecologies of their ancestors that has at times been pursued with real venom (Yes. For phylogenetic purposes, snakes are just another group of scleroglossan squamate, part of a frustrating polytomy of derived scleroglossans (right). Bones of the dermal skull roof and braincase consolidate into a solid cylindrical unit, aided by the addition of a new braincase bone, the laterosphenoid.
The quadrates, palate bones, maxillae and premaxillae become very loose and mobile, allowing manipulation and swallowing of large food items. The supratemporal, the skull bone to which the quadrate attaches, also becomes mobile with respect to the braincase. The jaws are jointed at their mid-length and flexible, and in most cases, the two sides do not connect in front, allowing swallowing of even larger objects. The comparison of the skulls of the Nile monitor lizard and reticulated python (a snake showing a relatively ancestral serpentine morphotype) underscore these differences. Nile monitor (left) and reticulated python (right) with premaxillae (blue), nasals (yellow), frontals (brown) and quadrates (red) highlighted.
Reduction of the skull roof bones around the temporal region and orbits, along with bones of the palate essentially decouple the palate from the skull roof.
The presence of a mobile joint in the jaw and the absence of a connection at the front makes then exceptionally mobile. The aquatic hypothesis: The ancestral snake's visual system was modified for the lower lighting underwater. The fossorial (burrowing) hypothesis: The ancestral snake's visual system was reduced in an ancestor that mostly lived underground and had little to see. Systematists are drawn into this debate because the discovery that the sister taxon of Serpentes was either aquatic or fossorial would lend weigh heavily in the dispute. Basal snakes: Proponents of the fossorial hypothesis derive comfort from the cladogram of living snakes. The basal branches of the snake tree, including Leptotyphlops, the blind snake and Cylindrophis, the pipe-snake are definitely fossorial.
Although their skulls definitely display the derived features of snakes, they definitely lack the extreme modification of more derived snakes. These snakes lack the large flexible jaws and jaw-articulations characteristic of the "big-mouthed" macrostomatan snakes. Note: both of these groups are ancestral enough that they lack the broad belly scales that we typically associate with snakes. No surprise that amphisbaenians and skinks have both been proposed as sister taxa of snakes.
Morphology: But since the 19th century mosasaurs, and their close relatives the dolichosaurs, have been proposed as sister taxa of snakes based on the morphology of their palate and jaws. Renewed debate: In the 1990s, gasoline was thrown onto this issue by a volley of descriptions or redescriptions of primitive snakes from the Cretaceous, including Pachyrachus problematicus (right), Haasiophis terrasanctus, and Eupodophis descouensis. At first glance, a snake with legs ought to be a basal primitive snake, and a marine basal primitive snake ought to cinch the marine ecology of the ancestral snake, and its likely relationship to mosasaurs, dolichosaurs, and their kin.
Gauthier et al., 2012, attacked these an many other issues at once with an authoritative comprehensive phylogenetic analysis that assembled a large data set with substantial new character information. If this is not convincing, then Martill et al., 2015, described Tetrapodophis amplectus, a proper snake with fore and hind limbs and fossorial specializations. The fossorial hypothesis seems to have won the day, and yet as recently as Palci et al., 2013, publications in support of the marine hypothesis and mosasaurian relationship have continued to appear.
Answer: Ongoing disagreement about the actual identity of the elements of the skull of the Cretaceous leggy snakes.
A vivid example of this uncertainty concerns the identity of the presacral vertebral column. Are Palci and his confederates right, or are their interpretations of homology a subconscious attempt to administer artificial resuscitation to a hypothesis that has actually been properly falsified? If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate. Although these remedies are usually considered safe alternative treatments, they can cause side effects so you should consult your doctor or a naturopath before trying.

Avoid using a piping hot heating pad as this can sometimes cause an infection by encouraging bacteria inside the cysts to multiply -- gentle, medium heat for short periods is best. Since many sebaceous cysts become infected with bacteria, applying tea tree oil to the cyst may help prevent infection and promote healing. Medline Plus states that some studies show aloe vera gel to kill bacteria and increase the rate of wound healing. Eating antioxidant rich fruits, whole grains, and vegetables -- including berries, citrus fruits, and dark leafy greens -- and taking herbal supplements such as red clover, and burdock root, may help boost immunity and remove toxins from the body.
In fact, the Mayo Clinic states that too much stress alters how the immune system responds and puts you at risk for illness. This is usually a simple procedure done in the doctor's office with a local anesthetic and usually takes no more time than a typical doctor's appointment. Incising the cyst involves a physician making a small cut in the cyst, and excising a cyst involves the surgical removal of the complete cyst or cyst wall. Never attempt to open, squeeze or drain the cyst on your own since this can lead to infection and should only be done in a doctor's office.
However, keep in mind that a natural cure for sebaceous cysts may not work all the time -- some cysts don't respond to natural cures and require conventional treatment.
In some, the front part of the tongue is specialized as a sense organ, but the iguanian facility for lingual prey capture is lost. Although they are generally benign and often go away on their own, they can prove annoying and unsightly and, in some cases, become infected so it's important to treat them to avoid complications.
To reduce the amount of excess sugar in your diet, avoid sodas, sweetened fruit juices, and processed baked goods, cereals, and snack foods.
Learning positive ways to deal with stress may be helpful with this condition as well as many others. Comparing the living animal with the skull clearly shows that the quadrate, as well as being hinged, is bowed anteriorly to enable it to support the ear-drum. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads.
If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control.
The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments. This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur.
Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below.
Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11).
It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge.
They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult.
When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan.
Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14).
Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem.
If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad. Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor.
They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one.
The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core.
Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment.
You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment. Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws. This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer.
Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis.
If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it.
There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19).
Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern.
Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator. Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem.
If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem. The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle. If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements. Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized. Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time. Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door. Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal. It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under. Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights.
For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes.
Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2.
The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end. The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much. If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater.
The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature. In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer. The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad.

If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat.
Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils.
Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings. If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man. DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems. The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work. If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself. It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice.
In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord.
Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers. If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat.
Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes. Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater. Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place.
The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work. The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4.
Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head.
Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head. The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head. Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head.
Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY.
If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat.
Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism. However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly. Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow.
Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate. Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book. If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer.
Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat. The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater. These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer.
Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps.
Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad. Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad.
Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system. Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point.
UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch.
If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT. I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis. Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which. These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty. COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective.
To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures.
The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb. The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.

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