Door latch for shed,definition of woodwork hand tools,solid wood furniture south yorkshire x5 - You Shoud Know

Summary: Fitting a mortice, or mortise latch, door locks,door furniture and fitting door handles. If you are reading this because you are about to hang a door, please check you have the door round the right way. A mortice latch is the most common of door furniture being fitted to internal and external door alike.
Flush doors and lightweight hollow panel doors have lock blocks fitted inside them to allow for the lock or other door furniture you wish to fix.
First of all mark the position on the door where you want your handle and using a carpenters square, draw a line around the edge and both sides of the door, extending about 3 inches into the centre of the door. Take a look at our video section on security to watch a couple of films on how to fit window locks. This latch-and-release design top latch is used by many manufacturers as the mechanism that holds both top and bottom latches in the retracted position while the door is open. The photo to the left shows the latch release fully extended and the latch fully retracted.  This is the state that this type of latch is in when the door is open.
Sometimes Pullman latches are used as the top and bottom latches on vertical rod exit devices because they operate more quietly than standard latches. Admittedly the whole idea is a bit dubious.  True, by having both leaves opened simultaneously by power operators will provide amply more than the minimum 32-inch clearance demanded by the American Disabilities act, but if anyone manually opens either leaf it certainly will not.
In the center we have the Hager 4921 strike that really looks like it could take out more than just a pocket if you catch it the wrong way.
Simple and robust design helps to ensure security and longevity; single motion egress ensures life safety code compliance.
Simple to order and to install, the Trident offers excellent security while preserving life safety.
I assume that the Trident is named for the three active bolts that secure the door on the lock side, but with the inclusion of the passive hinge side bolt it is actually a four point lock. Trident is a heavy device, so before installing it, make sure your door swings and closes properly and the hinges are in good shape.
Every locking mechanism of the Trident is through-bolted through pry-resistant steel plates, so casual attack using a pry bar would likely be fruitless no matter how much time the would-be burglar might have.
To maximize security, I suggest not using the optional exterior key control with this device. The Trident comes standard with a paddle that tells the user to push to exit and alarm will sound, but since the alarm is optional, this may be an empty threat.

The Securitech Lexi series retrofit exit device trim is available with a variety of back plates and adapters that allow it to be used with most major brands, including many surface vertical rod and concealed vertical rod exit devices.  Compatibility with a variety of vertical rod devices is a major plus.
Installation instructions are easy to follow and short – only four pages, including the template. All in all the Securitech Lexi trim seems to be a well built, versatile problem solver.  I think you’ll find it useful in many access control installations.
Let’s use as an example a hospital emergency ward entrance used primarily by ambulance drivers.  The hospital wants only ambulance personnel and the security guard  to be able to activate the power operator, and to control access by use of a remote switch operated by the security guard  for the general public and an access code by hospital employees (other than ambulance personnel).
Central to the concept is an access control device with two relays and a request to exit input. Other authorized hospital personnel use the access control system to unlock the lever trim. A split in power supply branding may or may not remain, depending on what document you are looking at, but whether they say they are Schlage or Von Duprin, they are all the same PS900 series. PS902 can accommodate 1 of the above option boards in addition to the 900-FA option and battery backup. For use with electric locks and with Von Duprin Quiet Electric Latch retraction (QEL) exit devices, but NOT with Von Duprin electric latch retraction (EL) exit devices.
PS906 can accommodate up to 3 option boards, fire alarm interface (with option board) and battery back up. For use with electric locks and with up to 6 Von Duprin Quiet Electric Latch retraction (QEL) exit devices, but NOT with Von Duprin electric latch retraction (EL) exit devices.
PS914 can accommodate 2 of the above option boards, plus fire alarm interface (on one of the boards) and battery back up. None of the PS900 series power supplies are a drop-in replacement for their predecessors, and the old and new option boards are not cross-compatible with the old and new power supplies.  Therefore, replacing old power supplies with new can present a rewiring challenge. Ordering back-up batteries can be a little tricky, since they have very similar part numbers for the batteries, the charging circuit board, and a set that includes the board and the batteries.
As electric locking systems become increasingly complicated, troubleshooting these systems has also become more complex.  Yet certain basic principles always apply.
The current supplied is inadequate – the solenoid used 330mA.  If it were being supplied with only 150mA, for example, the solenoid would heat up.
We determined that 27 volts DC was available at the door to power the 24 volts DC solenoid – perfectly acceptable – and we all felt that it was rather unlikely that they had received three defective solenoids in a row.  So that left current drop.  Where was the current going?  What was preventing it from getting the current it needed? The access control tech on site could not determine whether the solenoid was getting enough current at the door by using a meter (for whatever reason) so we traced the current back through the line.

To my dismay, they called back two hours later – after they had replaced the wire running through the door with 18 gauge wire and let the mortise lock run on it for a while – and let me know that this did not work either. The moral of the story is that, yes, access control has only gotten more complex as time goes by, but by using simple, logical methods a good technician and figure out and repair most problems.  So stick with it and keep asking questions until you ask the right one. Exit devices are used on doors in the path of egress in buildings built to accomodate numbers of people.
Find out how to attach mortices to doors learn how to securely attach the door furniture and get a great looking door. The cut away picture of a door below shows the frame and lock block which usually extends about 200mm either side (up and down) from the centre of the door.
We work with Checkatrade to ensure that we recommend only reliable and trustworthy tradesmen. That way the latches do not make contact with the surfaces of the door frame, floor or threshold.  When the top latch release makes contact with the strike it releases both top and bottom latches.
Whereas the locking surfaces of electric strike keepers designed for use with cylindrical or mortise locks is perpendicular to the door frame, the Pullman keeper is at a 45 degree angle to the frame, creating an angled recess to accommodate the unique shape of the Pullman latch. Electric strikes that are compatible with Pullman latches are said to have Pullman keepers.
These can be found within the catalog pages, specifically the page showing the 56 option (toward the back). My second choice would be a mortise exit device with an open back strike and a vertical rod exit device on the inactive leaf. I am told that UL tests them by mounting the device on a fire rated door and setting the door on fire, letting it burn for a time, and then blasting the door full blast with a fire hose. If you need an exit device for such a door, you need an exit device for a narrow stile application. Using a suitable drill, either a flat wood bit or an auger bit, ( The diameter of door latches varies so either measure yours, or see the fitting instructions on the packet.
If the door opens, the device fails the test and cannot be sold as a fire rated exit device. Keep the drill absolutely level while you drill and if you are using a panelled door as shown above, mark your drill bit with a piece of tape to make sure you do not drill too deeply.

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