Folding table saw outfeed plans 2014,shed construction design software 1.00,metal building packages louisiana,houses for sale summer road thames ditton - Test Out

02.05.2015
You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website.
A folding outfeed table for your table saw can be an easy solution for ripping lumber and other projects, especially in a small workshop.
Many new cabinet saws have a side extension table, and they’re a big help for supporting wide sheet materials or long workpieces when crosscutting.
So, my solution was to build an outfeed table that I can flip up when I need it and fold down when I don’t.
If you decide to build one for your saw, first grab a tape measure and size up your machine. Starting the outfeed table for your table saw stand by constructing the table top and gluing on the laminate pieces.
Get this project rolling by cutting the MDF table core top and bottom (pieces 1 and 2) to size and gluing them together. Pull out your contact cement, J-roller and spacers so you can cover the top and bottom of the core with plastic laminate (pieces 3 and 4).
Start with oversized sheets, and bring them to final size with a trim router and piloted laminate cutter. A filler strip (piece 5), machined with two small dadoes, tucks into place along the front bottom edge of the table core.
When I designed my original outfeed table, I wanted the leg to extend and brace against the saw cabinet but also retract so it could tuck behind the table when folded down. Assemble the leg by gluing and screwing the two side braces (pieces 12) to the back (piece 11). Cut the leg extension (piece 14) to width and length, and bevel-rip both of its edges at 35° so it fits well between the guide strips. Installing the mounting plate onto the table saw stand and prepping it to receive the outfeed table. Sand all the table’s wooden parts and the mounting plate up through the grits, and apply a couple of coats of wipe-on finish before proceeding. When the finish cures, flip the mounting plate and the table facedown on a flat surface, and set the parts together. Bolt the plate to the metal fence rail with five lag screws and washers(pieces 21) spaced evenly along its length.
With the mounting plate in place, make up the leg’s wooden stop “ledge” by gluing and screwing pieces 23 and 24 together. Fasten the table assembly to the mounting plate with a couple of 5" lag screws and washers (pieces 22). Milling a pair of miter slots into the outfeed table for the table saw stand with the router to finish the woodworking project.
Grab a helper to give you a hand in setting up the table with the leg extended and propped against the stop. I've been tossing around the idea of building something like this to go with my Delta Contractor saw.
Love the outfeed table - looks great, and is so totally functional with its wide work surface and long run-out.
Mine doesn't look nearly as pretty as Chris', but the original design, and my table's mod, are amazing improvements to the saw.
Our plans will fit many contractor’s saws, but you may have to modify them to fit your machine. Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. It mounts to the saw’s back fence rail and sets up with an extendable leg that props against the cabinet.


The parts in the Material List are suitable for a saw with 26" of vertical clearance between the tabletop and the dust port. Since the braces must pivot on the top ends, first round them over on your band saw, and step to the drill press to bore centered bolt holes. Aim for a slightly tight squeeze at first, then shave the bevels with a block plane until the extension slides smoothly into the leg housing.
Next, cut the spacer and build-up strip (pieces 17 and 18) to shape, and fasten them together with one pair of their ends flush. Laminate a thick blank of lumber together to form the mounting plate (piece 20) that attaches to the saw’s fence rail.
Mark and trim the bottom corners of the leg extension so it nests completely against the leg stop. Put a gate hinge on back edge of side extensions and mount the > shape portion of hinge to table top.
But my Jet contractor table presented a few problems, most egregious was the rear-mounted motor. Drill the pivot bolt holes in both legs and in the side rail (P) of the folding table (Fig.
Cut a continuous hinge into three pieces to fit the inner table and screw the pieces in place (Photo 9). If any sag develops, you can raise or lower the riser, legs and inner table supports to make up the difference. Measure Height #1 on the saw’s box from the lowest hanging point, like the fence rails. If the Depth is more than 34 in., increase the length of C and D by the difference and enlarge the inner table. If Height #2 is less than 34 in., reduce the length of the folding table (J) by the difference.
This outfeed table is permanently attached to your saw but tucks out of the way when you don’t need it. You can trim big pieces of rough-cut plywood to size (like the pieces you’ll need to build this outfeed table) or rout a dado (see Photo 8, above). Sand a hollow in the bottom of the inner table if your motor sticks up too far when it’s tilted. No cabinet saws that I’m aware of provide a means of support behind the saw where I really need it. Ordinary barrel-bolt hardware locks it quickly in the “up” position, so I never have to futz with the setting.
Make sure to adjust your table’s front-to-back size, if needed, so it won’t interfere with the dust port when you fold it down. The body of the leg houses an extension piece, and the parts open and close by what amounts to a giant sliding dovetail.
They serve as a mount for a second male barrel bolt — it locks the leg against the table and prevents it from swinging loose when folded down. A couple of stops limited these cuts and kept my bit from tangling with the saw’s granite table.
A pair of connected, but collapsible legs fold up within the underside of the extension when not in use. If you have moved the inner ribs from the locations in our plan, check the slot locations so they don’t run into the ribs. If it is less than 11 in., reduce the width of the inner and outer ribs (C and D) by the difference.
These slots allow you to accurately align the table with the top of virtually any contractor’s saw.


This one holds the inner half of the outfeed table (the part that’s above the motor). I’ve tried using a worktable back there, but it’s just one more fixture to get in the way in a small shop, and, I’ve never found a roller stand that provides the amount of stability I want. It provides a 30"-deep platform behind the machine — plenty of room to keep long rip cuts from tipping off into the netherworld — and its triangulated design is sturdy as can be. Then, use the brackets to set the width of the dadoes in the filler piece so you’ll arrive at a nice, snug fit.
Make the table pivot brackets about a quarter inch longer than necessary, and set them aside. Take the time to round its ends on a disc sander so the corners won’t become “gut busters” later on. Now, close up the leg, and fasten a barrel bolt (piece 19) near the handle: the “male” side mounts to the leg extension, and the “female” receiver piece goes on the guide strip. Adjust and reclamp the leg parts as needed until the outfeed table is flush with the saw table.
A self-centering drill bit (also known as a Vix bit) makes this job much easier (see ?Source, below). Temporarily clamp an inner rib to an outer rib so their tops line up across the platform in the final assembly.
After five years of hard use, the prototype for the fold-down table you see here has become an essential feature on my cabinet saw.
You could make yours even wider if you like, but remember that the leg should be relatively centered underneath for stability. Glue and screw the pivot brackets into their dadoes, then attach the filler strip to the core with more glue and screws.
Wrap up by cuttin the table pivot brackets to final length, gluing and screwing them in place to beef up the pivot points. You may also need to knock a little off the bottom back edge so the plate fits snugly against the fence rail.
The edges and legs are oak because they’ll take a lot of dings, but any hardwood will do. Use Width #2 to locate the right inner rib (C) to ensure that it doesn’t interfere with the blade-tilt handwheel.
I suggest widening the leg to broaden its stance if you make a substantially wider outfeed table. Slide the bolt over against the leg brace, and give it a good rap with a hammer to mark the bolt’s location. The only thing we haven’t figured out is how to store the legs; if you have a solution, send it in!
Drive countersunk screws through the back and into the strips to reinforce these important load-bearing joints.
Attach door hinges to each end of brace on top face of material so no bevel cut of ends required. Not intended for use to cut 4x8 or such large sizes of sheets of plywood or sheet goods without adequate stabilizing support of saw prior to use.



Woodwork projects for 10 year olds online
Storage units philadelphia
How to install a metal storage shed 7x7

Category: My Shed Plans



Comments to «Folding table saw outfeed plans 2014»

  1. Anonim writes:
    Shed is a permanent constructing used need to learn the way to build can retailer your issues.
  2. MADE_IN_9MKR writes:
    Graded or surrounded by a curb or dike at the least.