Free picnic table woodworking plans wardrobe,cheapest garden sheds sydney prices,rent to own storage building tennessee - Good Point

05.03.2015
The little people in your life have to struggle in a world adult-sized objects, and I think that’s why they’re always so appreciative of furniture made to their scale. To make the project more elegant and keep exposed end-grain to a minimum, I capped the tabletop and bench ends with strips of wood. I opted for half-lap joinery to connect the legs to the supports; this adds legroom and increases strength.
To begin making the top and bench assemblies, prepare your stock for the slats and the breadboard ends. Take a look at the plans and you’ll see that the slats for the tabletop and bench need tenons on both ends that fit into corresponding mortises in the breadboard ends. It's always good practice to cut mortises before tenons, since tenon thicknessis easier to adjust after the fact than mortise width.
When a mortise is going to be close to an end-grain edge, as in the case of the first and last mortises in all the breadboard pieces, you need to leave support in place. Turn your attention to the leg assemblies and the angled half-lap joints I told you about earlier. To cut the lap joints in the table and bench supports, set your dado blade to take a 5?8"-deep cut, which is half the thickness of the parts you’re working on.
To locate the laps properly, the easiest and fastest way is simply to transcribe directly from the full-size plan onto the pieces themselves.
Get ready to put the leg assemblies together by drilling angled holes for pocket screws to attach the benches and the top.
Secure you leg assemblies with more outdoor-rated polyurethane glue and clamp them together. I brushed on an exterior primer, then sprayed a couple of coats of CIL marine enamel in Ensign Red, sanding lightly between coats.
I protected the end-grain of the table legs from moisture damage with 1?4"- thick brass bar stock.
Put the shoes on the legs and your table is ready to be moved to a sunny (or shady) spot in the yard.
Building this project isn’t difficult, and, since it’s small, you can afford to expend extra time and energy on the details. I believe the classic design you see in backyards and parks everywhere has some real advantages—it’s a classic for good reason.
This detail is called “breadboard” ends, and although it adds a lot to the project—including stability and durability—you can leave it out if you want to simplify the design. The weak points of most picnic tables are the feet, since the end-grain surfaces draw up moisture. I decided to go with two specific sizes for the project: 1" x 31?2" for the benches and tabletop and 11?4" x 3" for the leg assemblies.


It’s important that the distances between the tenon shoulders on all these parts are exactly the same. I used a hollow chisel-mortising machine to remove the wood, but you could also use a Forstner bit in a drillpress.
I like to use a dado blade in my tablesaw for this job, although you can certainly cut tenons by hand too.
A mitre saw is a great tool for the angled cuts on these parts, although a tablesaw works fine too, especially with help from that drafting square. It’s a good idea to lay all the parts for each leg assembly down together in their proper orientation so each piece of the puzzle can be seen in relation to its neighbour.
Use polyurethane glue and stainless-steel #8 x 11?2" round-head screws to hold everything together.
You simply need to make corresponding 45o cuts on each end of the braces so that they measure 151?2" between the long points. In order for the wood to have a little tooth to hold onto the painted finish, I stopped sanding at only 80 grit. If you’re going this route, wear a respirator and goggles, and work in a well-ventilated area. Then I filed a chamfer around the edge on the bottom side, and drilled and countersunk holes in each shoe for some #8 x 1" brass screws.
Attach the top support, centered on the end supports and the center tabletop board, as shown above. As you did in step 2, fasten the remaining support board in place, using 2? screws and glue.
If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can use standard 11?2"-thick lumber cut to the right width, but remember to account for this change in dimensions when building the project. Bore overlapping, 3?8"-diameter holes in the area of each mortise, removing as much wood as possible before using a sharp chisel for final cleaning and squaring up. As you work, make absolutely sure that each lap cutout is located on the correct face of each piece. Use the 60o corner to adjust the mitre gauge, make a test cut on some scrap, then complete cuts on the legs before bringing one piece over to your full-size drawing. Begin by making test cuts on a couple of pieces of scrap, then lay them together to check the fit. You’ll find it necessary to alternate between the right- and left- hand 60o settings on your mitre gauge to complete all the lap cuts. An 80-grit paper creates an excellent surface for any outdoor finish that forms a protective film over the wood.
It is a good idea at this step to square up your project by taking a square of the bottoms of the legs.


Position the outer seat board flush with the ends of the seat supports and fasten in place with 2? screws and glue. Alternatively, you could use pieces of solid-wood composite deck stock or a rot-resistant hardwood such as white oak.
I drew full-size end view of the table on a sheet of 1?4" MDF to make sure I had everything right. Make sure you have enough leftover scrap stock of both thicknesses to prepare test pieces while tooling up for the mortise- and-tenon and half-lap joinery later. Mark the shoulders of the tenons on the face of each slat with a sharp pencil, marking gauge or utility knife. If you’re using a tablesaw, use a mitre gauge to support the wood as you nibble away at the tenon. You’ll get best results if you fasten a 30" piece of plywood or hardwood to your tablesaw mitre gauge to stabilize your workpiece and reduce blade tearout along the back of each cut.
Clamp a stop block on your auxiliary mitre gauge fence and make the corresponding top cuts. Adjust the depth of the dado until you get a joint that touches in the middle yet is flush on the faces.
Use your drafting square to adjust the angle of the gauge and test the results against your full-size plan. You could also drive #10 x 3" screws down through the top of the benchtop and tabletop into the leg assemblies, but pocket screws hide the fasteners.
Install the braces with a pair of screws on each end, fastening them into the bench supports, and the underside of the tabletop’s centre slat. Screw a sacrificial backing fence onto the mitre gauge to prevent tearout as the dado blade exits each piece. I wanted a smooth, relatively knot-free wood for painting, so I chose yellow cedar, but other great options are red or white cedar, hemlock or even an exotic wood such as cypress.
Next, clamp the slats into three assemblies: one with five slats for the table, and two with two slats each for the benches. Using a chisel and a block plane, adjust the tenons for a perfect fit into the mating mortises. Now all you have to do is hold the corresponding breadboard piece into position up against the ends of the slats and transfer all the tenon locations to the faces of the breadboard ends.
Draw an “x” in each mortise location to indicate where you will remove wood so you don’t cut in the wrong place.



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