Sawmill creek woodworking forums,wood horizontal storage shed,storage sheds for sale in raleigh nc 5k - Plans Download

2) Has any converted their jointer from a pork chop to euro style guard, specifically interested in converting a G0490? I first learned this fact while living in Japan when I was called a fool by a joiner for not having one in my tool kit. Russell Hudson shows how woodworking can be used to dress up and renovate an otherwise uninteresting wall.
In this first photo you can see the wall being prepped (the original bluestone mantel and shelves chiseled off) and tape indicating the position of the new woodwork to be accomplished (mantle, wall panels and the outside edges of the cabinets left and right).
The homeowners wanted well-articulated woodwork but with bold details, rather than fine decoration. As you can see (comparing first picture to last), the tape helped indicate what the woodwork would look like when finished.
As is often the case, they were pleased enough that they asked us to do two more projects for them.
Great job, I think my favorite design element is the panels on the bottom that run the full length of your built ins. Timing of my joining this group and reading this article is perfect, we're looking at a home with a very similar fireplace (brick), while your style wouldn't fit with the decor, it is very inspirational and helpful if we decide to buy that house. On my older machine V460 you can go into setup and re-set the O,O zero location and have it stay as start up default.
I was told to loosen screws that hold rulers and move them as far as they can go, place masking tape on those spots.
Way back in Sept '07 after completing new extension and outfeed tables for my tablesaw, I said that my next project was going to be a relatively traditional woodworking bench based on a design by Lon Schleining which was first published in FWW a few years ago (see the copy on my extension table) .
Then, last December, while working on my second adjustable height assembly table (for a magazine article), I wondered if the adjustable legs I designed and built for those tables could be adapted to a woodworking bench such that the bench would be strong and stable. I broached the subject to some friends and posted a few SketchUp drawings of the leg design. I subsequently changed the location of the stretchers from the fixed legs to the adjustable legs. Since I already had an indexing jig set up to cut the leg notches for the assembly table legs, I decided to make the woodworking bench legs at the same time, using some beech I had sitting around the shop- that was over 9 months ago. The unfinished top is just resting on the trestle base which is in its lowest (30") position.
End view showing top and bottom draw bored tenon pins on legs and wedged through tenons on stretchers. The adjustable height mechanism works very, very well (as good or better than the ones on my assembly tables). The finishing touch is a label Rob Lee of Lee Valley graciously sent me along with some cork vise facing. At first glance, I'd think that it would tend to rack quite a bit back and forth under pressure, particularly since the load is on the narrow inner legs. However, after looking at it closer, I see how you designed the inner legs so they nest inside the outer ones with the arrow head shaped profile.
After all the ?roughing? is complete, I will reverse the direction of the gouge and start smoothing the surface while ?riding-the-bevel.? This may take 2-3 passes to achieve a smooth surface. At this point I un-screw the form from the wormwood screw, remove same, reverse and affix the form to the chuck and tighten just enough to secure into the chuck.
Starting at ?dead center,? I will lightly engage the right point into this spot and slowly swing the tool to my left to score the wood lightly with the left point. My other consideration would be to purchase a ?? beading tool from D-way tools and solve the problem associated with modifying a tool to do the job. I use this ?rim? tool in an attempt to make the rim ?round-in-cross-section?, taking lite cuts, bracing the backside of the form with a gloved hand helps considerably. Next, I will sand the entire beaded surface removing any ?fuzzies? that always seem to appear.
I turn the lathe on slow speed and engage the sanding wheel to the surface parallel to the beads (not across the beads).
Since all of my designs are ?pre-determined? prior to any turning, I will at this point divide my platter into appropriate number of segments utilizing a Degree Wheel. Returning to the 9 double burned lines started at the 3rd bead & going toward the center for a distance of 8 beads, lets start laying-out the ?inner? segments that fit between the outer segments. Once the front has a nicely laid-out & burned pattern, it?s time to duplicate this pattern on the back side. The Pima Indians only used the light colored Willow as a base for their baskets with a darker material from the Devils Claw plant for the almost black colors for their patterns. If by now I have all the dyeing completed, front & back, I will return to burning the ?background?. When cured, remove tape, Saran Wrap and trim off the excess that protudes past the edge of the rim.
After sanding the foot interior to my satisfaction, I retreat to the house for placement of the information. I start my finishing by brushing on a coat of Watco Danish Oil-natural (clear), not a heavy coat, just enough to cover and penetrate.
I won't bore you with that embarrassing story, but a quick tutorial on oilpots as I understand them may be useful. The living room's long fireplace wall was made entirely of white cement 'bricks' with black mortar lines between, which was neither warm nor inviting--(much less good-looking!).
The finished product should be somewhat masculine, including straight lines, and should be substantial.

These are true 'frame & panel' surfaces, rather than simply rectangles of applied molding, which is commonly seen in many installations today.
These photos were taken before the homeowners personalized the space, filling it with books, pictures, art, crystal, and the painting they had in mind to hang above the fireplace. The end result is stunning, a great example of your workmanship, and something to be especially proud of. I might have been tempted to just close in the area where the fireplace is and fill in the space with more cabinets.
However the location of the stretchers on the initial design would likely have make it difficult or impossible to lift the top to adjust the bench height.
No through bolts or plugs are visible on the end vise face or free end aprons of the bench.
I could not decide on an optimum height and knew if I picked one I would be stuck with it unless I built a completely new base. If I didn't have so many projects in the hopper now I would certainly be working towards something like this ! With the help and support from John Keeton, I will attempt to show with text & photos how I accomplish this. Using a beam compass, I will scribe a line showing the outer limits for bandsawing, then to the bandsaw for the circular cutout. This is important to have a full arc on the bead as it makes burning a consistent, continuous burn line across the bead possible. Continue the rim forming until reaching the backside to a point where I think the smaller beads will blend in. For those of you with a large format printer, scale-up to 12? dia and print onto some heavier cardstock with a slick, coated surface.
It has nine (9) outer divisions with another nine (9) inner divisions centered between the outer divisions. Clamping the degree wheel on a ?9? I will ?scribe? a pencil line from center-to-rim, move the degree wheel to the next ?9?, scribe another line from center-to-rim, on & on until completion. First to be established are the closely-spaced double burn lines on both sides of the 40 deg pencil lines. Using the pattern as a guide, notice that there are ?connecting? lines that ?tie? the ?outer? segments to the ?inner? segments at the ?step? locations. This will become the area for printing the species of wood, credits to the Native American Tribe and signature with date and my town of residence.
I wanted to display this tutorial piece and so I hurriedly sprayed the Krylon finishing coats allowing drying time between coats on Friday AM. Also, check with your local library, if not available there, they can do an interlibrary search and most likely will find the book someplace. I have been to brick stores where the sales guy tries to steer me to what he thinks I need, or what he wants to sell.
The new owners wanted the entire wall faced with display and storage cabinetry to surround the fireplace, with a new mantle piece to match. To accomplish this effect, we created block-like corbels for the mantle rather than columns. If all is well, I re-tighten my chuck and start removing wood from the ?face? side starting at the outer rim area and working towards the center. Then, engage the right point in the previously scored left line and again swing the tool left to score the left point.
I then ground off all the metal on the outsides of the arc to basically a point for clearance from damaging the adjacent beading. When I get close to the foot I will stop the lathe and make a determination as to whether or not I have room for another bead or?? In addition to the segment locaters, it also has divisions at 2 deg intervals making it most versatile. Time for a little math??nine divisions gives me 40 deg between segments (360 deg divided by 9 equals 40?.right??). Try to get your spacings as good as possible but do not be discouraged if this doesn?t happen. Bring-up the live center cone to engage it on the previously used recess on the wasteblock.
Being long of tooth necessitates all the steadiness of hand I am able to muster but, I keep trying!
When dry follow with Matte Finish, same drying procedure then I spray UV Resistant finish as before.
The only thing we left exposed was the stone firebox surround and the hearth's stone cap, which ran the whole width of the room. This is a huge improvement, and should really provide a high return on investment for the home owners. I change the height of that all the time- from low sitting height, to lean-over working height, and full up to standing height. At some point the piece looses no more weight and this is my cue that the piece is dry and ready to finish turn. Usually not a lot of time required for sanding??.The old Adage comes to mind???Good knifework precludes sanding? Good luck!! I then ground a 5 deg negative rake onto the top face, which qualifies it as a negative-rake scraper.
Sometimes I get too close to the foot, then, I need to reduce slightly the foot diameter by a tad, allowing enough room to add another bead.

This degree wheel in conjunction with the ?stop? and marking ?scribe? allows me to draw pencil lines radiating from the center outwards toward the rim in a precise manner (assuming no operator error.) The ?stop? is made with a wood base.
The ?scribe? is made of wood, consists of a base with an attached vertical leg which holds a pencil in a hole which is centered on the headstock. So, if I want a line exactly between my 40 deg segment marks I need to move the degree wheel by 20 degrees. Once this has been completed I should have 9 double burn lines equally spaced around the outer area of the piece. Remember, that all the present burn lines will be dyed a fairly dark color and as such most burn lines will not be too visible. If the layout has been followed you should have 4 un-burned beads between outer & inner segments at their respective step points. I always save the interior of the ?foot? to place my credits, signature, species of wood & date. I use a small razor saw to make my cut, cleaning-up with a scalpel, sandpaper, files, whatever. The WW bench is too new to tell how much I will use the adjustable height, but as I said, if I need the capability, I have it. I do nothing to establish the final diameter at this point, the beading will determine that for me later. I will usually repeat this scoring for 10-14 beads then returning to my starting point; I will proceed to ?deepen? the scored lines. Lock this assembly onto your lathe with the chuck and turn the outer diameter to finished size.
If I am to use a Burnt Sienna, that?s a different story because this dye is more transparent so the burn lines will show thru. This will become the four beads that receive the ?connecting?, narrow double burn lines Do a repeat with the inner segments as before, layout, burn, fill-in the field with burn lines. Place a push pin in the wasteblock hole and using the previously mention piece of Manila File Folder stock locate the required 19 spaces within the 40 deg marks as earlier. If I make a ?mistake? with the dyeing, my only recourse is to use a scalpel with a #12 blade and actually shave down until all dyeing has been removed.
This pattern is used to draw pencil lines from the edge of the rim to a center point (midpoint on the circumference of the rim). In between coats I will inspect for stray objects that always seem to find their way onto the nearest wet surfaces.
Once all the excess wood is removed I will make slow, smoothing cuts with the bevel riding to achieve the previously-mentioned ?level? surface. I will always leave the last bead ?as is? to be used as a starting point for subsequent scoring. For those who have a ?std? size printer just burn the data to a CD, drop-off at your local print shop and get it printed the correct size for you.
Start at an established line, remove the springclamp & move the degree wheel by 20 degrees, re-clamp, scribe. So as a recap we are looking pretty good with what we?ve accomplished so far so,??let?s venture farther. Lastly, connect outer & inner patterns with the previously-mentioned narrow-double burn lines. I use Dark Bark, Burnt Sienna & Cadmium Red, depending on the piece?s origin as all Native Americans did not have the same raw materials to choose from, hence different shades of dyes are used depending on what the Native Indians used.
Place this whole assembly over the rim bead and using the fingers ?form? the flattened putty to fit tightly over the contour of the rim.
I will layout these lines on a portion of the rim, burn with a skew shaped straight burner tool, then layout the opposite side using the opposite end of the epoxy guide. If all things seem right, I apply more pressure with the tailstock and start removing the wasteblock using a fingernail gouge. After most of the wasteblock is removed I switch-on the vacuum pump, apply vacuum and proceed with the waste removal with tailstock retracted. Once this is completed, I do a very thorough inspection for flaws, mistakes, pick off fuzzies, ect., ect. Same program but just a little more trouble Once the back side is all laid-out with my segment lines I will remove the piece from the lathe and retire to the house for a little R & R. 95% of the remaining work will be completed in the confines of the house??.namely my recliner!! Place the ?guide? against the pin and place the other end on one of the 18 previously marked locations and draw a light line from center to rim. Then, using the pattern, I will start to layout the perimeter of the outer pattern, observing the offset steps in the pattern and following the previously drawn pencil lines at the 19 spaces. I will layout one segment of the outer pattern and if I feel confident that I?m correct I will then use my woodburner and burn the perimeter lines of only one segment.
I have used the ?fish scale? pens but find the above mentioned pens to be much better suited for my stuff. If I feel confident that my first segment pattern is correct, I will layout & burn another until I?ve completed the required 9.

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