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Our approach is to listen and inform to help you make a decision consistent to your vision. Ted’s Woodworking The Best Woodworking Projects Begin With A Great Woodworking Plan (Woodwork Projects). We have been asked a lot of questions about the process used to refinish our Douglas fir woodwork and have finally wised up enough to write it down! We tried many different methods to strip paint off the woodwork, everything from off the shelf Home Depot chemical strippers to the Silent Paint Remover. Although we really liked The Silent Paint Remover, it was too bulky to fit into small corners and I had difficulty using it on surfaces that weren’t flat. The stripper was brushed on with a paint brush, allowed to sit until it started to work and scrapped off with a wide putty knife.
Any cracks, holes or gouges in the wood were filled in with *gasp* Bondo Body Filler, which is normally used in car repair. If the woodwork you are stripping was originally painted, the wood will need heavy sanding prior to staining. Perhaps because our woodwork was originally so dark the grain of the wood stood out and was considerably darker after stain was applied. A word of caution, be sure to tape off the edges of the floor with several layers of painter’s tape because the bleach will run off the baseboards and onto the floor. Select several stain colors that you think you will like and apply the colors to your woodwork.
We have used Watco brand Danish oils and also a mixture of several Minwax stains with great success. The dining room which was done earlier is actually a slightly different color than the rest of the wood in the house.
Now is the time to touch up any tiny places and specs where the paint wasn’t removed.
After the final coat of varnish has dried overnight, lightly sand all the woodwork with a very fine grade of steel wool. A lot of people have had good luck sealing their woodwork with shellac or Linseed oil instead of varnish.
After the wallpaper has been removed you can see if repair work is needed on your plaster walls.
After the varnish has been applied and is dried, you can tape off the woodwork with painters tape, and prime and paint your ceiling and walls.
On my old house, a combination of heatgun for flat areas and chemical stripper for the smaller or more complex shapes was the ticket. There may be a way to remove the poly and new stain without damaging the original finish (if that is something you want to keep). I wish you and your wife the best of luck and commend you on wanting to tackle the woodwork.
I have kind of an unrelated question to this blog- We have shutters and the wood where the hinges screw into them is stripped. I know this is a really old thread, but putting toothpicks in the holes from the screws that are stripped out will help the screws grab and is an easy fix. I have seen milk paint in one house here and it looks completely different then what I described above. Using a tinted shellac could even out any variations in the finish and you might not need to restain. Something I am thinking of trying is renting a high powered, professional steamer and steaming paint off. We’ve been stripping and sanding the heart pine trim in our family room for the past several months, and started staining a test piece of baseboard just last night. I have been reading articles about staining woodwork for the last several years and all of them are just a little different regarding the process of removing old paint and what stains to use and how to apply them.
I have been searching all over the internet to find out the best way to strip 2 old doors in my foursquare home that have been painted. Guys that woodwork is amazing and I know it was a Labor of Love as any Historic Restoration is. What would you suggest for causing laser engraved text to stand out – something to rub over the letters to darken them, but that won’t soak into the surrounding wood? My question is… after using a stripper, can I restain and is there any conditioner needed? If you really want your woodwork to look like a fine Stickley antique, the final step would be to gently rub it out with a good paste wax (I have used Briwax for years, but any good wax will do).
The beauty of this finish is 1) that completely it’s authentic to the period, which polyurethane most assuredly isn’t!
No part of this site may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means -- electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise -- without the written permission of the copyright owner. The combination of the accurately machined housing and the solid steel guide rods assures a smooth sliding parallel action for the jaws, free from side or cross deflection. That is why we not only have the most competitive pricing around but some of the sharpest delivery times around as well – on over 30,000 building products. All our products are priced excluding any delivery charge and therefore this will be added to your order at the point of checkout. Chaise lay seats tend to be perfect for make use of throughout the seaside or even inside the swimming pool, as possible unwind within comfort and ease inside a seat which facilitates your personal back once more as nicely as thighs. All of us have one additional thing to say to you, we are offering this web page very hard. People with the patience of Saints use dental tools to go in and chip out all the particles of paint. If our woodwork had never been touched and was in original pristine condition, I would have learned to live with the dark wood, although it’s not my taste.

It comes in a bag and you follow the directions on the bag regarding mixing the product and the amount of time to leave it on. Apply a large enough portion so that you can get a clear idea of what the different stains will look like.
Be sure to write your formula down, especially if you are planning on doing another room in the future. Another thing to keep in mind is that the color will get a little darker after the varnish is applied. If you have layers of painted wallpaper covering your walls like we did, now is a good time to remove it and patch the walls. My wife and I moved into a just rehabbed foursqaure with some craftsman style woodwook on the first floor.
We’ve been using CitriStrip for our fir trim and it works quite well, with less fumigation required.
I have a 1915 bungalow very similar to yours and I’m in the process of refinishing all of the woodwork.
I’ve finally finished stripping and sanding my woodwork and would love to know what stain combination you used. I am not sure from your post if you are talking about refinished hardwood floors or trim and other woodwork? Whenever we get depressed about our 1930 restoration, all we have to do is visit your website and your determination and hard work lifts our spirits! The trouble is that, even with wood conditioner, we are running into blotchiness problems with the stain. I have been stripping my doors and woodwork for the past several years (only have 1 day a week to work on it) and I am almost to the point of being able to apply stain.
I recommend taping off the parameters of the floor with wide painters tape and then putting down protection for the floor. I used a product called Minwax wood conditioner on my douglas fir before staining at the recommendation of both the paint store and my father. I recently purchased and rehabbed a 1929 true brick bungalow that had oodles of white paint all over the original woodwork. I wish my Craftsman had one of those divider half-walls (not sure what their called) in between my dining and living rooms. We recently bought a 1908 Bungalow which unfortunately, the previous owners saw fit to re-stain the glorious chestnut trim in BLACK.
The only question I have is how long do I need to wait to stain the wood after I strip off the old paint? I have used that same stripper before to remove old layers of caked on lead based paint and as someone who works for a Remodeling and Restoration company in the Charlotte NC area I have made money and lost money bidding on jobs like this. This is timeless information, as I see you did your project in 2004 and here it is 8 years later. My home was built in 1909 and has the fir strips on the wall like yours but I never knew just what they were. You’ll need a fair amount of alcohol, but the finish should basically dissolve right onto the steel wool. Use alcohol-soluble dyes available online from woodworking websites, and be discrete – a little bit will go a long way. Again, this will take a little practice to master the technique, but the result is absolutely gorgeous – you’ll have guests stopping in their tracks!
I have learnt basic skills of construction being mortise and tenon joints, dovetails as well as sawing, chiselling and basic machine operations. The delivery time depends on the product you are buying but the delivery time is stated on the product page.
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This will also help to sand down any of the wood grain that was raised by the chemical paint stripper. You will need to wear a respirator, goggles to protect your eyes and gloves to protect your skin. It is also good to view the stains at different times of the day because the color will shift depending on the light.
If you wait to work on the walls until after refinishing the wood, you risk damaging the finish on the woodwork. Again- wishing you all the best and keep up all your great effort…I can’t wait to see future improvements!
The rehabbers stupidly splashed and smeared stain over the original varnish and then put on a coat of polyurethane. Those folks are so knowledgeable about old houses and they have ran into just about every problem imaginable. Kind-of like a thin layer where you see wood in some areas and a thin layer of paint in others? The bathroom ceiling was sheetrocked but once that was removed we exposed the same wood and beam ceiling as the bedroom, which I would like to keep as part of the remodel even though it has a very different look from the honed marble and coffee bean caesarstone countertop we are installing. You should be able to put a darker stain over the first stain as long as it hasn’t been sealed with a varnish, etc. That said, JASCO would be the product we would use if Master Strip was not available to us. With our floors, we waited 24 hrs after the final coat of poly was applied to make sure it had thoroughly dried.
I’ve consulted a local wood refinisher, and he suggested using a washcoat of sealer cut with thinner prior to staining, and also mentioned that residual chemical stripper may have soaked deep into the woodgrain and could be contributing to the problem. Since you worked with a lot of vertical surfaces, what is the best way to protect the floor when you are applying the stain? I am grateful to have somewhere to start (our floors are a similar color to yours and your stain mix will be a good place for me to start).
I am usually very handy and remodeling savvy but, this is a project I have never attempted before. There have been times when the old paint bubbled up and simply wiped off then there were times it was grueling and we had to apply the paint stripper 6 times to reveal the wood underneath. I especially like the advice about painting over the tiny bits left behind when stripping the paint, and also recommended brands. I also had no idea that the entire bottom half of my walls had the same beautiful wood that yours does.
If the finish is shellac, a little bit of it will come off on the rag (a yellowish-brownish stain).

In addition Adrian was able to instruct me how to French Polish my table giving me the skills to create a product I am truly proud of. Deliveries to Non Mainland UK or restricted postcodes (mentioned in the delivery charges) take longer to deliver usually an extra 3-5 working days. A good effort was made to remove all visible paint but the paint in cracks and crevices was dealt with after the wood was stained and I’ll explain the way that was handled once we get through the staining process.
It is also a brown-red color that blends in well and is barely notable once the wood is stained. You will need to change the water bucket often and to rinse the wood several times to be sure all the bleach is removed. Another thing to keep in mind is that the stain will get slightly darker after varnish is applied.
After that coat dries, keep adding coats and letting them dry until you achieve the desired color. With a small brush carefully paint over all the little spots where the paint wasn’t removed.
A better and faster way to get a smooth finish is to spray on the varnish using a paint sprayer. After stripping all the layers of paint off I removed all the pickling by using alcohol on a rag. We just bought an old house where the beams and rafters are stained dark dark brown in the room that will be our office. My contractor, without researching the steps to correctly seal and stain this part of the ceiling applied a cherry stain to the beams which is way too red and won’t match the deeper browns of the other materials. You might need to adjust the recipe by adding a little more dark walnut because the cherry stain your contractor applied will probably sho through.
I applied the stain after using the conditioner and the stain just sits on top of the wood and doesn’t absorb in.
If your painted wood surfaces were flat enough to use a sander, you could have used the Speedheater. I have a huge project ahead of me and the advice from all of you who have written here will make it manageable. And it’s highly likely that any original clear finish on residential woodwork installed before about 1925 is shellac. Plans provide for the very structure on how woodworks are laid down clearly and concisely; hence there is nothing else to search for.
We learned this fact the hard way when a little bit of stripper got on our floors around the base boards.
When I pull too hard with the scraper after heating I am removing the original finish (it’s lighter than the area around it). We sponged denatured alcohol on and wiped an area clean, let it dry and went over it again (letting it dry in between) if necessary. The article I read (maybe it was in This Old House) talked about using the steamer to strip paint off wood as well. Using steel wool will get caught on the grain and can give you a life altering sliver if not careful.
I have seen it at a paint store frequented mainly by professional painters in down town LA. I was nervous about taking this project on because the doors are original to the house and I would feel horrible if I ruined them! If you sanded the wood that you stripped and it had lead paint you created a lot of lead dust.
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My concern is that the chemical stripper will also damage the original stain used on your woodwork. I have tried reheating and area that is pretty much clean except for the residue and have burned the wood, I have tried several products (Opps, mineral spirits, linseed oil, etc).
If denatured alcohol doesn’t work you might consider trying a thin layer of chemical stripper. On the off chance it is milk paint, a company called Behlen makes a special stripper to remove it. I read the posting from a couple of years ago about the stripping and refinishing process but I’m not sure we have that kind of time since other subcontractors are due to start.
I’m not an expert, but my general rule of thumb when working with chemicals or paints is that if I get a headache the chemicals are getting to me and I need to provide better ventilation or go outside (get out of the environment).
It only heats paint and wood to max 600 degrees, unlike a heat gun at 1000+, so it doesn’t vaporize the lead in the paint. Remove the door hinges and soak them for a few days in TSP (trisodium phosphate) to remove the paint. It takes a while to start working (best if left overnight) but we use it around small kids and animals with little ventilation. I’m almost certain that the main part of the ceiling is plaster, not wood, because of the repaired and painted cracks. When all the pickling is removed sand with a hand held sander with the grain and never cross grain. But I do like the recipe that was of 3 parts dark walnut to 1 part cherry and I’m wondering if we can use this to apply over the first coat of cherry he applied. The following areas will incur a surcharge, if you require any further information, please contact us. To get to my question, I was talking to someone who does restoration in CA, he thought that the door may have been originally treated with milk paint (I live in Virginia and he said this was commonly used during this time).
Since I don’t know much about woods and finishes I have no idea if this is a feasible solution or will it look terrible and are we digging ourselves in deeper. He said that milk paint is hard to get off – I am stuck, I have spent a small fortune so far and am getting ready to head back to the hardware store.
After you get most of the paint stripped off you can sand the doors to remove the last little bit of paint. I would rather keep the wood ceiling and beams in their lighter natural color but since he already made the beams much darker I’m not sure if there is any turning back.
I was also worried my stain would disappear like yours did so I figured better safe then sorry. I really want to keep the original finish but after ready everything I think I am going to have to stain again and apply a shellac or varnish.

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