Ho scale garden railroad magazine,railroad hq fallout 4,new york to philadelphia best bus,micro trains christmas cars ideas - Plans Download

admin 28.12.2013

Because of non-railroad abuse of the site, new members MUST use their first names (at least) to join NO EXCEPTIONS! A major derailment occurred today when a train collided with a car stuck on a level crossing. Due to (here in Australia) a very hot summer, and then a very wet winter not much has happened, but for those who have ever contemplated HO scale outdoors, here is the good news. The new sections that had been re built with "blue board" as a base were totally unmoved by the last 12 months weather, so this is the way forward for me. I originally felt a bit like an explorer going outdoors with HO scale (Almost everyone who I spoke to said it would not work,) so I get a lot of satisfaction seeing trains running with such a small amount effort. Hi Tony M from Ipswich QLD and from what I have seen is pure awesome, I too am going HO scale garden railway now I know it an be done. My HO scale garden railway will be modelled on the Tehachapi loop as my pergola floor isn't level with the car port floor by 9 inches. The layout will go out into the yard and at a latter stage down the side of the house, first stage 53ft by 24ft. Got one DD40AX centennial loco pained up in UP colours with the running number 6936 a Bachmann loco. Also modelling the Boeing 737 fuselages on 89ft flat wagons nearly got one fuselage finished builtbfrom scratch.
NO idea on how to add pics to the posts, once I find out will keep everyone informed on my progress. Many thanks will chat to you later, as I said my HO outdoor layout won't be a permanent set up so wont have those issues with the points and only one point outside . Sill will have the bus wiring like on a proper module layout and set up as block wiring to run more than one DC train . WE have something in common I too started late in the hobby, 1995 40 was the year,around40. Three quartes of the spiral deck is cut out now and looks good screwed together, good join fit too. Many thanks Bernd for helping me out by finding the forum gallery, I have uploaded all the old layout pics from Photo Bucket, not an easy task but worth it in the end. I am starting to get the idea of posting pics on the forum, hit the wrong button to add the info. Where the pergola post is nearest to the grass may have to add in another couple of feet for tunnel 9 to get it right.
Not happy with photobucket, I deleted the pics in my photobucket folder to resize them and that also deleted the pics on my post on the forum, any ideas to sort this problem out . Parts of this bulletin board may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Please feel free to comment or make suggestions - all comments will be gratefully received.

Spray lightly onto a cork sanding block and spread onto the tracks, leave overnight then wipe with a NEW CLEAN sanding block.
I've been using the large cleaning pads by LGB meant for G scale although I have used 'Iso Col rubbing alcohol in a CMX track cleaner and will soon try neat acetone which I bought from a chemist.
I started out with no real idea of what was going to be required to build a layout in the garden, but here are the things I considered. First and foremost, the layout was to be HO scale, operating with DCC, and all locos to have sound.
My property has a fall of over 6' from side to side and a fall of around 20' from front to rear.
Next consideration was how to store trains after each session, and the obvious answer was in my garage, where they would be out of the weather.
I dona€™t need this garden layout to be much more than a couple of loops for continuous running. So, the basic idea came down to a couple of loops, with several crossovers for convenience, with both loops going through the garage with switches to the storage tracks.
Obviously, most of the track would be laid on a structure above the ground, but I had 2 options for the portion below ground level.
The final design was basically two loops, with around 60% of the loops running side by side and representing a dual mainline.
And lastly, the layout would represent the South Australian Railways that I remember from my childhood years and into my early teens. Next up was the 930 class, introduced late 50's with another US based body, but this time with ALCO V12 251 motors driving the electrics. This loco is fitted with a loksound V4 decoder, and sounds almost as good asI remember the originals. My layout won't be permanently set up be like a module layout, mainly interested in running long trains, longer the better.
I was hopping to have the top track on the tunnel 12 inches, but not to be it is 9 inches high.
The other day I bought two 'Trix' loco cleaning brass wheel brushes which can be used with either DC or DCC. If you take a look at my profile you'll see what I do for a living and only once or twice in the last ten years have I become upset and then due to an assault.
Whichever way I looked at things the slope was way too large for a layout at ground level, so I was looking at a plank type layout. Height of storage tracks was set at 5a€™ which meant that the track at the opposite end of the property would be around 18a€? below the natural ground level. A local resident photographed the train moments before the collision, and then followed up with this exclusive photo report. All I needed to do was give the rails a buff over with a hand held Peco track cleaner (it looks a bit like a pencil eraser), and move some weeds from overhanging the track.

Most people I talk to say HO outside is not viable, but for me, things like wide turns, and long trains disappearing into the distance more than make the effort worthwhile.
I have been reading about different oils (transmission fluid for example) being wiped onto the track, to improve electrical contact, but my opinion is that the oil will attract dust and dirt, thus adding to my problems. I also have a Bachrus wheel doctor for cleaning coach and wagon wheels and have found that neat acetone seems to work the best.
In fact it's my mistake for not taking into account those with battery radio control garden railways. I already had an N scale layout but my 60 year old eyes were struggling with the small size, and my fingers were beginning to feel like bananas when I handled anything, so a step up in size was necessary. The length of the tunnel would mean great difficulties if I had a derailment or cars became uncoupled inside. It makes a 180 degree turn (ita€™s a 5a€™ diameter a€“ the tightest turn I have) travelling through the cutting before heading back to meet the inner loop again. I hadn't seen your pics you posted here on the Selby site so I didn't make the connection at first. 940 onwards) had an extra cab squeezed into the opposite end for running in either orientation. It needs a better speaker set up, but all in all, is pretty good looking and an exceptional runner. I wanted broad curves, and long trains, so outside was the only place I was going to get them. Also, nasties like lizards, mice or spiders like the dark of a tunnel so I discarded this option.
Crossovers at several points mean I can run trains over any track, or set up for a continuous run twice as long as usual. Often they were old 4 wheel wagons, but this era ushered in larger bogie style freight cars, container trains (initially loaded into 50a€™ gondolas and later 60a€™ flatcars) No SAR layout would be complete without a€?The Overlanda€? an interstate express train running between Adelaide and Melbourne in Victoria. The second option was to create a large cutting for this portion of track, which has turned out to be quite a lot harder to construct than I first thought. The inner loop is around 100a€™ long, the outer loop (when completed) will be around 150a€™ long.
I considered the usual outdoor sizes but decided anything larger than HO would tend to compromise the look I was after. I will also run long rakes of twin hopper coal wagons, to represent trains that could be seen in the northern part of South Australia.

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