Kadee model railroad cars,tyco usa express train set uk,used cars for sale melbourne fl - Reviews

admin 18.10.2015

A lot of people now use Kadee couplers in UK modelling - Kadees have mostly been used in America and are a fairly big commitment to change to if you are a UK modeller - so why would you want to?
For me though the major reason for changing is that tensions lock couplers scream "TOY!" - Look at the Hornby CCT in the following photograph - it's an OK model, one that I am told Hornby have reworked from the Lima tooling that they bought, the paintwork is excellent and whilst there is plenty you could improve it - the coupling is the thing which, to my mind, most offends the eye. The kadee has a spring loaded knuckle which will couple automatically when two pieces of stock are pushed together.
There are lots a and lots of different types of Kadee couplings, so many it can become seriously confusing. The only differences between each of the four types of NEM Kadee couplers are the lengths of the shank - so #17 is the shortest and #20 is the longest.
The majority of the other types of kadee expect to be screwed or glued onto the rolling stock body - these typically come in four components that need to be assembled and fixed to the stock - the shank fits inside the 'gearbox' along with the centering spring (this is the metal plate shown in the picture and not to be confused with the miniscule springs on the knuckle itself). If it is NEM or not is largely decided by the fitting provided by the RTR manufacturer - that leaves two main variables to sort out - getting the right height and getting the right shank length.
Getting the right shank length is helped by a rule of thumb that seems to work well - you need to line up the rear face of the coupler with an imaginariy line drawn between the leading faces of the buffers. In general terms the further your coupler is mounted forward the easier it is for the stock to negotiate bends without causing buffer lock. Height is where the problems begin - if you are fitting a coupler which has a 'gearbox' like the number 5 then there are a number of choices for getting the correct height - the two obvious ones are (i) to choose a kadee that has a shank offest up or down, and (ii) to fit shims in between the gearbox and rail - many people cut a piece of plastikard of appropriate thickness to use as a shim. Where things should be easy, is where stock has been provided with NEM pockets, unfortunately the NEM pockets fitted on some stock is at the wrong height. Now this is all well and good but the NEM 362 is an HO and not an OO standard, so the height isn't really perfect. So feel free to give RTR manufacturers pain if they provide NEM 362 pockets at anything other than the 8.5mm above the rail height.
Of course what the Kadee range lacks is some NEM 362 shanks which have heights offset in either direction - so perhaps we could encourage Kadee to help by asking them for the same - even though that is a perverse way of fixing the problem.

QUOTE The wagons do jerk to and off the magnetic plate as they pass over giving a strange effect as the train goes by.what?
Doug,I have fitted a no.307 uncoupler near the end of my main platform to allow me to change locos on through trains in the hands-free mode.
I've used the electro magnetic version in one location on a previous layout, it worked very well but for simplicity I prefer the simple magnetic block glued between the rails (#321)and if your couplers are at the right hight no problems.
For UK modellers, using modern stock, there is one key differentiation between the types that it is worth starting with - what type of shank (connection to the rolling stock) the coupler has. This 'gearbox' arrangement allows the coupler to have an amount of rotation, left and right, to allow the stock to negotiate curves.
To assess if the coupler is at the right height you will need a simple height guage that kadee sell.
I just have been collecting some resources together, and thought others might find them useful. If you use a 12 volt DC supply, then there is a capacitor supplied too that will help boost the power. Instructions can be found in this topicAlmost all the photos I post can be found in my albums. Never watched a loose coupled freight moving?There must be an awful lot of huge magnets under the tracks on the prototypes then? What I don't like about magnets under the track is that they do affect the running of a train at low speeds.Forgive my ignorance but could strong magnetism have an effect on DCC decoders? There are 4 Kadee varieties (#17,#18,#19,#20) that come with a (swallowtail) shank suitable to plug straight into the NEM pocket that are often now provided by manufacturers.
There are a range of couplers to allow you to choose one which has the right shank length and the right height for the particular stock you are fitting - There are also some choices in shape and style of gearbox which further adds to the complexity of the range. Please let me know about corrections or additions, especially links to other conversion advice, by commenting below or sending me a message.

In fact you can't see them from the viewing side of the layout as the platform masks them.
When two couplers are joined the trip pins can be forced apart magnetically to allow automatic decoupling. A more recent addition to the kadee range is the #58 which works on exactly the same principle but is even smaller and so less obtrusive still.If there is a 'default' choice it is the number 5, this is the most widely available and cheapest, and people often describe others in the Kadee range in comparative terms to the #5. Before carving my baseboard, I set up a test rig simulating my curved platform, using the same baseboard material, track and ballasting. I found that you do need to adjust the height of the magnetised plates to get the 307 uncoupler to work.This is done by adding packing pieces under the baseboard. I have to stop the train with the tender coupling over the uncoupler and set back the loco about 5mm to uncouple. If I do it right, the carriages and their passengers are not disturbed by the movement.My station has a through road, and occasionally I want to fail the loco on through express goods trains and change the loco there, so I shall be fitting a second electro magnetic uncoupler soon. I cut out the sleepers retrospectively and glue in the magnet with packing to get them at the right height.
The coaling stage siding is also equipped with a 321 uncoupling magnet which is installed just before the point leading to the the siding where I keep the full and empty trucks in rakes of four with Kadees at the ends and 3 links within the rakes. I push the wagons up the ramp with a tank engine: the Kadee on the front of the loco stays in its uncoupled mode even as the loco pushes them through the two fairly abrupt transitions from level track to 1 in 8.

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