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Don Smith's expert treatment of this Atlas O Santa Fe boxcar makes us feel like we should probably go get that tetanus booster shot, just to be safe. Anyone can be a member of The Weathering Shop, the only requirement is a passion to create top notch realistic weathering. Please enjoy the following gallery of some of our recent work, along with descriptions provided by the modelers.
RBOX 43892: This Pullman-Standard boxcar started out as an Athearn ready-to-run HO scale model that came right on the money as far as accurate to prototype detail. Next came the ghost lettering that is common on many older Pullman-Standard Railbox cars that are still in service today. PLMX 2840: This 33,000 gal tank car was another ready-to-run HO scale model that is really well detailed from the Atlas assembly line. ALY 91738: This car started out as an Atlas Trainman model, which was re-detailed to match the prototype cars Allegheny Railroad has in steel plate service. 1954 IHC R-190 Snow Plow in Pennsy Livery: The truck cab and chassis are from Classic Metal Works I kept the paint and lettering on the truck stock, but added a Life-Like dump bed instead of the fifth wheel that came with the model. The trucks are finished with a mixture of several Bragdon Weathering Powders rust colors applied over an ultra flat surface. IATR 13146: I described this project in detail in the October 2009 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman.
Weathering your trains and structures is an important aspect of enhancing the realism of your model railroad. Use the same techniques for steam locos, applying a faint flat gray overspray to lighten up and flatten the original black. Well-nigh importantly a 4×8 layout is humble enough to induce you started indium megabyte. Don is a member of an informal group known as The Weathering Shop who gather to display and discuss their techniques for creating realistic weathering techniques for models.
Unique challenges come from replicating the effects of weather and age on railroad equipment. The main purpose of the site is to be an online gallery for some terrific artwork, but we also have a page where we detail some of our techniques as well.
I first shot the car with a liberal misting of Testors Dullcote from the spray can to give it tooth and next I used a mix of colored pastels that I shaved into powder into a small basin with a razor blade.
It came out of box in a simple all-black paint scheme with crisp proto-perfect lettering and disclaimers.
The snow plow is a Roco product, but the frame work just above the truck bumper, and the side plow hardware and frame are all scratchbuilt.
I started with the cab of a Ford F-8 flatbed from Imex models then kitbashed the cab on the chassis of a CMW R-190, keeping the CMW wheel set.
Lawrence & Hudson), a Kato SD40-2 undecorated model was my choice along with many commercially available detail parts. First I dulled and faded the car with washes made from Model Master flat finish mixed with white acrylic paint.

You can use dry brushing to create these streaking effects either lightly or strongly as you wish.The lettering on freight cars sometimes runs onto the paint below with aging. You can simulate this either by purchasing graffiti decals or by painting these on yourself using gel pens.
Inscribe the trusbucket upward and show us what you’ve got Due date is 01 xii call back the winning entry receives their choice of any ExactRail model.
Spell they carry up a fair amount of place a 4×8 layout is easy to move out of the way when you need the room for something else.
I brushed on light amounts of the brown pastel to achieve the golden color of a well-worn Railbox car. My goal was to employ painting and weathering techniques found on many military models, and to add delicate prototype detail below the walkway which is usually ignored in HO scale. This one was done to match a prototype which was especially grimy, so I next mixed up a wash made from black acrylic paint and flat finish.
The rusting was done with a variety of shades of burnt umber artists acrylics applied with a brush.
This was the third weathered car I ever attempted and it was probably my favorite project to date. I faded the car from the original Grand Trunk Western blue by using titanium white artists oil paint and dry brushing it on with a wide brush. How-do-you-do Trainz residential district I take a model train weathing internet site that i would like to share with you all. Yesterday Cjcrescent View Profile View Forum Posts common soldier Message Visit Homepage View Articles View Cartesian product Reviews View Gallery Uploads. This is something I’ve treasured for my Guilford fleet for years an ex St model railroad weathering forum. Yet they offered no alternatives, nor did they cover any of the basics on how to get ready to use oils (e.g.
The idea behind the site is to give modelers a place to show, sell and speak about their weathering artistry. Part of the charm of this model is the mismatched numberboards and cobbled together primer paint job with corporate logos and lettering. After bathing the car in it a section at a time, I wiped off the excess with damp Q-tips allowing it to settle in all of the cracks.
Decade items Nick Fe SD26 The framework Trains Weathered website http appears to embody off the Anyone be intimate if this is permanent operating room is it model railroad weathering forum.
The work on the site includes rolling stock, locomotives, dioramas, structures and military armor in various scales. After this had dried, I applied scratches and dings and rust pits with a fine-haired artists brush and acrylic paint, then applied a small scale drybrushing of oil paint around the scratches and dings to represent actual rust bleed outs. Shadows and highlights are forced and enhanced using a painting process called color modulation.
Next I took a heavy body burnt umber artist's acrylic paintand did lots of rust accents around the edges of just about every side and end surface of the car as well as the logo.

The grime is also applied with a brush and is a mixture of acrylic black paint and flat finish. Use a faint spray of brown wash to simulate dust or dirt on the bottom of the front and sides. Hi Practicing on old wagons is a good To beryllium honest there are no rules Hoosier State weathering and its upwardly to type A distribute of practice acquirement and mostly. One of the easiest slipway to get started in mold railroading is with antiophthalmic factor 4×8 civilize layout in holmium Scale. After every stage in weathering to this car, I applied Dullcote to seal the work accomplished. This was achieved by hand painting from left to right on the the lower car body, exactly what is on the real car.
The trailer has molded wooden slats, so I softened the decals with setting solution, then picked at them with a hobby knife to make them look old and worn on the wood surface.
The method is popular with military armor modelers, and is based upon layering successive shades of color to simulate depth using contrasting lights and darks keyed to how the real thing would appear under a natural light source. The next step was to blend those in with a diluted lighter shade of rust mixed up with burnt sienna and umber.
The flat finish provides a great vehicle to allow the color to be applied with transparency as opposed to just diluting the black paint. Add a little rust to the couplers.Weathering and detailing structuresUse the same techniques mentioned above to make the wood siding on buildings look streaked and worn. A light wash of a diluted charcoal gray and mocha brown acrylic mix was the final touch before adding the airhoses, cut levers and undercarriage brake rigging. The grimy weathering effects were achieved with the usual artists oils, gouache and pigments. Details on this car include a fully custom underframe, Proto 2000 trucks, Intermountain wheels, cut levers, kitbashed side and end ladders and coupler platforms.
I used a combination of heavy body burnt umber for darker rust and lighter burnt sienna to create the illusion of older and newer rust growing together over a bare metal surface. I wanted the trailer to look like it was filled with leftover junk from last years' season, so I raided my spares box for parts and pieces.
Not three years of continuous work mind you, because life has a funny way of interrupting even your favorite, most time consuming and exciting projects.
Allow for drying in between each step.If you use an airbrush a lot, make sure you use a facemask for safety, especially for solvent-based paints. Mostly, you would use burnt sienna or burnt umber for dark rust spots and raw umber for larger streaked areas. You may therefore want to paint the outside hubs of these wheels a rust color.Also, to show the effect of sun damage, paint loss, and wear and tear to the galvanized roofs of boxcars, you can apply a light coat of Polly Scale Flat Aluminum to the middle length of the top of the boxcar, and then apply a thin coat of grimy black to dull the silver effect.

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