Putty remove keys,baby steps having the child i always wanted grammar,kid cereal nutrition facts - Test Out

16.12.2015
The manufacturer of Silly Putty recommends using WD-40 to remove silly putty from clothing, furniture and carpeting.
Apply a small amount of baby oil to the Silly Putty, another product that will quickly dissolve the silicone in Silly Putty. Protect your face and eyes with a towel or bandana and apply cooking spray to the putty and hair. Condition your hair while removing silly putty by using mayonnaise or olive oil, two products that will effectively cut silicone while actually nourishing your hair. You can use any of these tricks to safely and effectively remove Silly Putty from carpeting, furniture and clothing.
If any of the products above have left an odor in your hair, apply a baking soda and water paste to the area, massaging gently for a few minutes, before shampooing as normal. Instructions from Crayola and other sources on the internet suggest scraping off the excess, then spray with WD-40 to miraculously rub off the remaining silly putty.
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 8DOMESTIC ICEMAKERS8-1 ICEMAKER TYPESIcemakers are divided into two basic types; flex-tray and hard tray. WD-40 may do the trick, but it leaves a smelly and oily residue and is made from harsh chemicals and aerosol fumes that you probably do not want coming into contact with your hair or skin. Massage the oil into the putty and hair and allow the baby oil to set for five or ten minutes before applying a bit of hot water and removing the putty with a fine-tooth comb. Massage the cooking spray into the Silly Putty and allow to set in your hair for about 15 minutes. But, my pants are black and now I know NOT to spray the WD-40 directly onto the silly putty. I didn’t want to use a knife because I think that stretches the fabric even more than my nail. There is a stain from the WD-40 and a shadow of silly putty is visible. Pants are now in the donation pile. Luckily, there are a number of simple methods to remove Silly Putty from hair, and most likely you already have more than one of the ingredients needed.
Massage the hand sanitizer into the putty and surrounding hair and allow to set for five or ten minutes before gently removing with a fine-tooth comb. Allow the product to set for about 15 minutes before wrapping the area with a soft terrycloth towel and pulling gently towards the tips of your hair. If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!The Whirlpool belt-driven design is well over thirty years old.
Also like manual molds, when it comes time to eject (harvest) the ice from the mold, it invertsand twists, "popping" out the ice.
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!5-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe old-style GE design uses a single-speed reversing motor, which is belted to the transmission. Rinse the hand sanitizer from your hair as soon as possible, as it contains alcohol, which can quickly damage hair. The majority of putty should slide right out; however, you may use a fine-tooth comb to remove any remaining putty. I turned my pants inside out and saw that the silly putty was visible all the way through the material. Again, dab WD-40, let it sit, scrape if off (on the inside of the pants). I definitely won’t do it when she is sitting in a booth next to me, where silly putty can roll under my tush. The tray then turns back upright and refills with water for the next freeze cycle.HARD-TRAYHard-tray icemakers have a metal ice mold which is coated with a non-stick coating. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle (Figure GE-1.)A simple centrifugal clutch prevents the motor from taking heavy shock loads when starting. I sprayed the WD-40 directly onto the silly putty and then watched in horror as the oily substance spread to a size twice as big as the silly putty. Fortunately, having been around for so long, the peculiarities of the design are pretty well known.3-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe design uses a single direction motor, with solenoids to engage and disengage the agitate and spin cycles and pump.
The amount of time spent in the freeze cycle is controlled by a number of factors depending on the individual design, but it is best explained by knowing how the harvest cycle is triggered.HARVEST CYCLEThe harvest cycle occurs when the ice is ejected from the ice mold.
There is less chance of chipping or scratching the finish.2) Inside the lid, on the top right side, is the recirculation nozzle. However, it should be noted that the accumulation of "run" time is, in one way or another, thermostatically controlled. For example, Admiral-type flex-tray machines have a thermostat in line with the icemaker timing and drive motor that opens at 19 degrees, and doesn't close again till the freezer temperature drops to 15 degrees.
There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. You may not see any water directly, but you will see its tracks leading down the pump body. See section 5-4 on pumps. 2) These washers are quite different from others in that the tub is attached to the cabinet, rather than the transmission. A thermostat pressed against the ice mold senses that it is cold enough to ensure that the ice is frozen. The cam bar moves towards the front of the washer, pushing the clutch bar and yoke upwards. When the harvest mechanism contacts the ice, it stalls until the ice melts enough to release it from the mold. It can develop leaks, or even shake loose, causing a MASSIVE leak (during the fill cycle, the water dumps straight onto the floor instead of filling the tub).
Cubes in the bin might occasionally stick together a little bit because of this liquefication, but they should be easy to separate.In a hard-tray icemaker, the thermostatstartsthe harvest cycle, but it does notendthe cycle.
The mold heater would open the thermostat and end the cycle way too early; long before the mold was refilled. When the thermostat begins the harvest cycle, a cam attached to the drive motor closes a "holding" switch.
This switch keeps the drive motor turning until the ice is harvested and the mold refills with water. Usually such holes will appear around the top of the tub.If you have holes worn in the tub, you can sometimes patch them with an epoxy patch kit, available at your appliance parts dealer.
When the ejection mechanism is reset, the mold is refilled and the cam reaches the proper position, the cam allows the holding switch to open. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer. This ends the fill cycle and begins the freeze cycle.FILL CYCLE AND FILL VALVETowards the end of the harvest cycle, a cam on the drive mechanism closes the fill switch.
This switch opens a fill solenoid valve, usually located on the back of the fridge, at the bottom. As of this writing, it is not yet widely available, but ask your dealer or call 800-936-5282. 4) The tub fittings may leak. If you detect a leak from the tub drain or other tub fitting, remove the basket as described in section 5-6. 5) You may get a calcium or detergent buildup around the fill or recirculation nozzle.
The shape of the cam that closes the fill switch controls the length of time the valve stays open.
Also check to see that the switch striker is not broken off. If this doesn't solve the problem, test for power at the left (spin) wigwag solenoid when in the spin cycle. A flow control washer within the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure, so that the same amount of water flows through the valve regardless of water pressure. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the washer and switch the red and yellow wigwag leads as shown in figure W-6.
Replace it as described in section 5-4. If the machine is not pumping out water because the coupling has come off the pump, check the pump for jamming. After a repair, you can't stand there with the freezer door open, waiting for the next harvest cycle, to make sure the machine is working properly. Most icemakers are temperature-sensitive, and as the freezer temperature rises and falls, this sensitivity can cause symptoms to be intermittent.Icemakers can behave erratically, and be difficult to diagnose because of it.
Therefore, a locked transmission will not stop the motor from turning, but a locked pump will. 1) If NOTHING on the machine works, and it's not even making any noise, check the power supply. But a basic understanding of how a particular design operates can go a long way towards removing the mystery of intermittent malfunctions. In others, only the spin cycle is interlocked, and the machine will still fill and agitate with the lid raised. Knowing how the icemakershouldoperate may point you towards whatisn'toperating correctly.Has the fridge or freezer seemed warmer or colder than usual? Test the switch as described in sections 3-4 and 2-6(b). Often one of the wigwag wires will break, usually very near the wigwag itself. This can point towards refrigerator problems other than the icemaker, such as defrost or sealed system problems. Check as described in section 2-5(a) and tighten or replace as described in section 5-10.3) Often a sock or something has jammed in the pump. Any higher, and the ice may not freeze fast enough or the thermostat may not trigger a harvest cycle.
You will also hear the motor trying to start, then tripping off by the motor overload switch, because it is being stalled by the pump. Test for continuity through the spin solenoid circuit of the timer as described in section 2-6(c). Any lower, and the cold may migrate into the refrigerator compartment.Has the freezer or refrigerator door been opened a lot?
An additional confirmation of this diagnosis is that if you look at the pump coupling while the motor is trying to start, it will be twisted tightly.
In some circumstances, this can keep the freezer temperature too high and cause slow or no ice production, or "shelling," where the cube has not frozen completely before the harvest cycle begins.Do not yet discard any "slabbed" ice. See section 5-4. 4) If the transmission pulley is turning, but either agitate or spin or both are not working, the transmission is bad. If the motor turns with no load, check the drive pulley and pump pulley to see which is locked. Replace as described in section 5-13. If the pump is turning, but the transmission drive pulley is not turning, stop the washer and disconnect power.
If the transmission pulley will not turn in one or both directions, the transmission needs to be replaced.
See section 5-13.If the transmission pulley turns fairly easily by hand, but the clutch drum is turning slowly or not at all under motor power, the clutch may be bad. The ice cubes are "shelling," or not freezing completely before the harvest cycle tries to eject them from the mold.
See section 8-2(b).D) The fill tube keeps filling with ice and blocking the flow of fill water.
See section 8-4.8-2(a) SLABBINGThis generally occurs when the ice is not ejecting from the ice mold properly. Usually you will hear the motor buzzing as it tries to start, then dropping out on the overload.
If there are cubes left in the ice mold after a harvest cycle, the new waterfill will overfill the mold for the next batch.
Check as described in section 5-12. 6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines. Depending on the design, this may cause the mold to overflow, or it may just cause a thick sheet of ice to fuse together the tops of the cubes too solidly. Section 5-5. 7) If you have a two-speed machine and the slow (gentle) speed is not working, the clutch solenoid may not be working. In this case, the icemaker can jam and the problem can compound itself rapidly.This can be caused by a number of factors.
This can simply prevent the ice from dropping into the bin, (Figure S-1) or it can interfere with the ice level sensor arm, preventing the icemaker from shutting off when the bin is full. See section 5-11. If the machine makes a squeaking noise, especially during the spin cycle, the snubbers are probably worn out.


This is especially true if the machine has difficulty balancing during spin, even after you redistribute the clothes. See section 3-15. If the centerpost (spin tube) bearings are worn, replacing the basket drive will not solve your noise problem. Both hard-tray and flex-tray machines are prone to this problem; it is caused by impurities in the fill water. Replace the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14.5-4 PUMP AND PUMP COUPLINGA vast majority of GE-built washers use the pump shown in figure GE-4. You will need to call a qualified service technician to replace the bearings, or simply junk the washer.
The problem can get so bad that you may see black or gray flakes and sediment in the cubes.
If the machine is making a squealing or groaning noise, the problem is more likely to be the basket drive. In both hard- and flex-tray machines, the solution is usually to replace the ice mold, or just the entire icemaker. If it is more like a rattling sound, the centerpost bearings are probably worn out.A secondary check is to look at the clutch lining. If you do this, rinse the mold with a weak chlorine bleach solution and flush with copious amounts of water before you put the mold back into service. Disconnect the pump coupling at the TOP end, then the remove the three pump mounting screws. The next fill will then cause overfill, and slabbing symptoms may develop.Low water pressure can also cause the valve to leak, sometimes badly enough to overfill or overflow the ice mold.
See Section 8-2(c), section 8-3 and Figure S-4.8-2(b) SHELLINGHollow cubes, or "shelling" can occur if the ice cubes are not fully frozen when the harvest cycle begins. Then cut out the little piece of plastic in the center of the hub with a knife; this will expose the top of the agitator shaft.
Depending on the design, either the harvest cycle is being triggered prematurely, or the cube is not freezing in the allotted time.Shelling may be an early sign of defrost, sealed system or other cooling problems of the refrigerator itself, especially in flex-tray machines. However, most intermittent problems with these machines come from mechanical causes.For example, if the belt is loose, the machine may not spin sometimes, may not pump out at other times, and still other times it may not agitate. The freezer vents in flex-tray machines must direct cold air directly at the surface of the water or the mold, to insure that it will freeze in the alloted time.
The solution is obviously to tighten the belt (or replace it if it is badly worn.) Another aggravating and difficult to diagnose symptom is caused by worn cam bars.
Check that nothing is blocking the airstream and that the freezer vent directing air over the icemaker is not damaged, missing or misdirected.In hard-tray machines with shelling symptoms, ice or water left in the mold after harvest may cause overfill and slabbing problems.
There are locking tabs that you must twist to remove the larger agitator from the smaller one. Once the screw is removed, the "handwash" agitator should lift out easily. Shelling is usually a sign of low waterfill, which allows the mold to get colder faster, triggering the thermostat into a harvest cycle too quickly. Check and adjust the water level (sections 8-5 thru 8-8) or check for low water pressure or the incorrect water valve. The bolt can be replaced without removing the transmission, but it's a real bear of a job.3-4 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located in the control panel on top of the cabinet. Over time it will freeze the tube completely shut.To melt the ice from the tube and clear it, you can use a blow dryer, or blow hot water into the tube with a turkey baster. If you need to remove it, it is simply clamped to the transmission top and to a lip on the tub by two big round clamps. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. If the timer dial prevents you from removing the timer, pull off the spring clip from behind the timer knob as shown in figure GE-10. Sediment from improper installation or low water pressure may prevent the valve from closing fully. If you have this symptom, especially if it returns after clearing the ice blockage once, start checking for water supply pressure or sediment problems. The other design is known as a "clamshell" timer because of the curved shape of its plastic housing. If you have a standard frame timer, mark the timer wires before removing them, so you can get them on the correct terminals of the new timer. If your timer is defective, take it to your parts dealer and ask for a rebuilt.5-8 LID SWITCHThe lid switch is located beneath the cabinet top, towards the right rear of the washer.
I've seen people tap into hot water pipes, but the piping should be long enough so that water does not fill the icemaker while hot, or the water may not freeze fast enough. It is far better to use a cold water line if possible."Saddle valves" are often used on a new installation to pierce into an existing pipe, (Figure F-1) and generally work pretty well. Test with an ohmmeter and replace if defective.5-9 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located beneath the console.
However, you must be careful of using dissimilar metals; for example a copper valve on a galvanized steel pipe.
GE washers used several different wiring schemes, so refer to section 2-6(b) and compare with figure GE-11 to determine which terminals to test. Sometimes, the switch may burn out altogether and it will seem as if the machine isn't getting any power at all.
A water supply drawn from a saddle valve on a galvanized pipe is an invitation to scale and sediment problems.Similarly, a saddle valve installed too close to a hot water tank can pick up calcium sediments from the tank itself. Scale and sediments can block the saddle valve and cause low water flow.Low water flow through the saddle valve may cause the same symptoms as low water pressure at the solenoid valve inlet.
They can also get into the solenoid valve seat and prevent the valve from closing fully, causing symptoms from fill tube freeze to slabbing. If it has no continuity, replace by removing the screw on the underside of the coil. I do not recommend the novice trying to rebuild a two-speed clutch. However, the only long term solution is to secure a better supply, directly from a copper cold-water pipe if possible. To remove the threaded cap or nut, hold the agitator (this will keep the driveshaft from turning) and unscrew. Figure W-13: Agitator Mounting Stud AccessBut what if the agitator splines are stripped? To service the single-speed clutch, first remove power from the washer and remove the back panel. You can hold the agitator all you want, and the shaft will keep turning with the nut or the threaded cap. Here's a good confirmation of a stripped spline. It's a little cheaper, easier to cut and install, and less prone to leakage when you have to move the refrigerator. However, some people feel it's more prone to leakage than copper simply because the material is stronger. That's not been my experience, but it's your call.If you do use plastic, make sure you insert the brass sleeves into the ends (Figure F-2) before installing the compression fittings.
Without them, the ends of the plastic could collapse and leak.HOT WATER OR COLD?I've seen people tap into hot water lines to feed the icemaker, but I highly recommendagainstit. The nut will back off with each sweep of the agitator shaft. If you have a threaded cap, you can do the same thing by hand.
But when the temperature of the water drops, the heat flow slows to the same rate as if you had just filled it with cool water in the first place. Common complaints and contaminants are chlorine, rust, sand, dirt, sediment, dissolved calcium, organic substances such as PCB's, THM's, herbicides and pesticides, chloramines and detergents, causing bad taste, odors or even health hazards. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them.
This book is not intended to be a primer on water filtration; I would in no waybegin to try to pretendto be able advise you what contaminants you need to guard against in your area.
Simply twist the ring counterclockwise to remove. The air dome is the fitting that attaches the water pressure switch hose to the tub.
For that, you need to hire a water chemist, or talk to your water company or neighbors who might have been through this already.
These contaminants you can pick up independent of what your water company supplies you, through old or inadequate water piping or other house conditions. As you look at the back of the machine, you will find the relay towards the upper left side of the machine.
You don't think the pipefitters washed all the bugs and dirt out of the tubing before they brazed it in place, do you?INLINE AND UNDER-SINK (CARTRIDGE) FILTERS(Figures F-3 and F-4)In my opinion, about the only good thing about inline filters (vs.
Loosen the motor mounting bolts and remove tension from the belt. Lean the washer back against the wall, following the safety tips in section 1-4. Being behind the fridge instead of under the sink, they are harder to get to, and easier toforgetto change.Cartridge-type filters, on the other hand, have replacable cartridges which are relatively easy to get to and change. Some even have water shutoff valves built right into them to make filter changing even faster and easier. You should now see good continuity. If you do not get the above readings, replace the relay. They are little, if any, more difficult to install initially, and replacement cartridges usually cost less than a new inline filter.
Rocking the pump away from the drive belt will help disengage the belt, and also the pump lever from the cam bar. DO NOT MOVE THE PUMP LEVER YET.Check the belt for wear as described in section 2-5(a), especially for burned or glazed spots where it rode over the locked pump pulley or motor drive pulley. Replace the belt if it is worn, following the instructions in section 3-13. INSTALLATIONSet the pump lever in the same position as the pump that came out. Slide the transmission towards the right rear of the washer, and reach under the transmission to make sure the drive belt has disengaged from it. Make sure the pump lever goes into the slot in the agitate cam bar, and install the mounting bolts.
Tension the belt as described in section 3-13. 3-11 WIGWAG AND CAM BARSThe wigwag is located inside the back panel of the machine.
When the new membrane is new, probably half of the water that enters the RO system goes down the drain to flush themembrane.
Rebuilt GE transmissions are a standard item at most parts stores, and they are not terribly expensive.
If you don't change the elements frequently, then when the membrane gets older and plugged with contaminants, as much as 15 to 20timesas much water goes down the drain as comes out the faucet. Also, water flows through the RO membrane very slowly, so it can drop water pressure at the tap considerably.Most manufacturers recommend AGAINST an icemaker water supply coming from an RO system. Locate the right rear bolt loosely in its hole, then the left front bolt, then the other four. Install the boot, basket, and agitator. I have been personally using an RO system on my Whirlpool crescent cube icemaker for two years now and I am tickled with the results; ice as clear and clean tasting as our drinking water, and no scale or calcium deposits.
As a final step, remove the back from the washer and make sure the belt is seated properly.5-14 SNUBBER BLOCKSThere are eight friction pads, commonly known as snubber blocks, which help to prevent vibration during the spin cycle. Replace the setscrew, making sure it goes in the hole on the wigwag drive shaft, and tighten securely. Normally, you will not need to replace the plungers, even when you replace the wigwag. But if you understand the risks, and the RO system doesn't drop the water pressure too low, it can be done.8-3(b) FILL SOLENOID VALVEWater fill volume is controlled by a couple of things. If you see that one is bent or the pin is badly worn, replace the plunger. The plungers can be quite difficult to replace.
For one, the length of time the valve stays open, which is usually controlled by a cam in the icemaker head, which closes a switch for the proper amount of time. The pins that connect them to the cam bars are hardened and thus difficult to cut through. The first step is to remove power from the machine and cut through the pin. Aflow control washerwithin the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure.
However, if the water pressure is below about 20 psi at the solenoid valve inlet, problems can occur.
Sometimes it's easier to hacksaw through the body of the yoke than to cut the pin. Once you've cut through the pin, remove the wigwag as described above and replace the plunger, using the instructions that come with the new plunger.


If the cube is too small, it may not eject properly, and the next fill may cause overfill.Water solenoids operate using a pressure diaphragm with pressure on both sides of the diaphragm. It keeps the machine quieter. To replace the spin cam bar, you must drop the transmission slightly as described in section 3-13.
To replace the agitate cam bar, you must remove the transmission as described in section 3-14.3-12 DRIVE MOTORSingle speed, two-speed and three-speed motors were used at different times in these washers. Different icemakers require a wide variety of fill volumes, from about 3 ounces in certain GE units to as much as 8 ounces in Admiral-type machines. The valve bodies might look the same from the outside, but you must make sure the valve is the correct one (has the correct flow control washer) for the icemaker you're working on. If someone has previously replaced the solenoid valve, and you experience low flow problems or slabbing in an icemaker, double check that the valve is the correct one.
This may be the cause of the belt breaking.REPLACING THE BELTUnfortunately, the belt is not easy to replace on this machine. This is acriticallyimportant point.8-3(c) TESTING AND ADJUSTING FILL VOLUMETo test fill volume, remove the icemaker from its freezer wall mounting (but leave it plugged in) and initiate a harvest cycle if possible.
To get the belt past the clutch shaft, you actually have to drop the transmission out slightly, and sometimes the transmission needs to be realigned afterwards.
Baby bottles are generally just about the right size for testing fill volume; most are graduated in both cc's and ounces. There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. A good rule of thumb is that one fluid ounce equals about 30 cc's.Water fill level can be adjusted onsomeicemakers. See sections 8-5 thru 8-8 about your design.8-4 SLOW OR NO ICE PRODUCTIONThere are a number of things that will slow or stop the production of ice. If you are working on an icemaker where you can do so, a good start is to try to manually trigger a harvest cycle and watch what happens. Hold the wigwag's "spin" plunger up and tap the spin cam bar towards the back of the machine. However, there a few common causes.8-4(a) FREEZER TEMPERATURECheck the freezer temperature.
In most icemakers, a freezer temperature above about 15 degrees may cause icemakers not to harvest or to have other ice production problems. Then pull the transmission straight out until it stops against the bolts. 7) Remove the belt. If the freezer temperature is hovering right around the thermostat temperature setting, the icemaker's thermostat may open and close, causing slow or intermittent ice production. If the freezer temperature is not low enough, check the refrigerator's temperature settings.High freezer temperatures may also mean that therefrigeratorhas cooling problems such as defrost or sealed system malfunctions. If adjusting the controls doesn't lower the freezer temperature, see Chapters 4 and 5.8-4(b) POWER SUPPLYCheck that the icemaker is getting power.
Unplug it from the freezer wall socket and see if you have power between at least two of the terminals.8-4(c) WATER SUPPLYCheck also that the icemaker is getting water. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer.
If possible, unmount the icemaker from the freezer wall and manually initiate a harvest cycle. The transmission should be just slightly loose, and all three bolts must be backed out the same amount. Set your washer upright and level.
Make sure there is no water or clothes in the basket, and START THE WASHER IN THE SPIN CYCLE. The electronic one has a circuit board and an on-off rocker switch on the right side of the icemaker head.Most of the symptoms and the malfunctions between the three designs are similar. However, the internal differences between them are pretty pronounced, so testing and troubleshooting are quite different.8-5(a) MODULAR CRESCENT CUBE DESIGN OPERATIONThe harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered.
Without moving the washer, tighten the three transmission mounting bolts beneath it as evenly as possible. Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized even after the thermostat opens back up.
They are pretty standard items; most appliance parts dealers carry rebuilt Whirlpool transmissions in stock. The motor then stalls, with the ejection fingers applying pressure to the ice, until the mold heats up enough for the cubes to separate from the mold.
If you wish, you can replace the cam bars, T-bearing and ball as insurance against future problems. Two points to remember in exchanging the parts: 1) The drive pulley is originally assembled with a drop of glue on the setscrew threads. You may need to heat the hub of the drive pulley with a torch to get the setscrew out. 2) To get the agitator cam bar out, you will need to lift the agitator shaft. If the ice level in the bin is too high, or if you raise the arm to the shutoff position, this switch opens and interrupts the thermostat circuit.
The easiest way to do this is to remove the "T"-bearing ball and pry the shaft upwards with a screwdriver, as shown in Figure W-22. Installation is basically the opposite of removal. The icemaker then will not enter a harvest cycle until the sensor arm is allowed to return to its full down position. During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning. There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the icemaker head; one full turn equals 40cc's. Some models have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover that attach to this screw. This screw simply moves the fill switch closer to the cam on the drive shaft, keeping it open longer, or vice-versa. The maximum adjustment on these machines is one full turn in either direction; any more will damage the icemaker head. When adjusting the level, do it gently and do not attempt to force it AT ALL.TROUBLESHOOTINGAside from water supply problems, what usually goes wrong with these machines is that the thermostat (bimetal) fails. To jump the thermostat and trigger a harvest cycle, just jumper between the T and H test point holes.
In this case, you would see the ejection fingers pressed against the ice, trying to eject it, but it would not eject.
Under power, test for line voltage between the L and H test point holes; if it is energized, then power is going to the heater. Unplug and test for resistance between the same test points; the heater should test 72 ohms.
If not, replace the mold.If the drive motor isn't turning at a time when it should be, test for 110 volts between L and M to see if the motor is energized. Some have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover.The harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized and turning even after the thermostat opens back up. The fingers then continue pushing the ice out of the mold.The thermostat stays closed throughout the first rotation of the ejection fingers. Near the completion of the first rotation, another cam attached to the driveshaft closes the fill switch, butwater fill does not occur.
The shutoff switch is closed, and offers a lot less resistance than the water valve circuit. Near the completion of the second rotation, the fill switch closes again for about 7-8 seconds, and this time the mold fills with water. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch is still closed, which keeps the motor turning.
When you remove the plastic cover, you will see the motor gear turning and disengaged from the larger ejection drive gear.
The motor gear can be pressed back on and glued with superglue.Some of these machines have a "chiclet"-type thermal fuse (figure X-8) attached to the underside of the ice mold, near the icemaker head.
If this fuse blows, the icemaker will not harvest, nor will the motor start when you try to manually initiate a harvest cycle. The other two microswitches are the waterfill switch and the holding switch, both cam-operated. Fortunately, they're pretty much commodity items at this point, and can be replaced for well under a hundred bucks.8-6 GE "BULLET" OR "BARREL" CUBE MACHINESThese machines produce five cylindrical cubes per harvest.
If there is an ice dispenser in the door, you may need to turn down the crescent cube size a little to get the cubes to go through the door properly.OPERATIONThe harvest cycle begins thermostatically at about 16 degrees. An ejection shaft through the bottom of the ice mold is attached to an ejection pad, which pushes the cubes vertically from the mold. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them.
During the harvest cycle, the mechanism raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning. The icemaker will not be producing ice, and you're sure the freezer is cold enough, but manually jumping the thermostat produces a harvest.There are two test connections on the underside of the icemaker head.
In both, a small rectangular plug in the bottom of the icemaker head can be removed to reveal two small holes. When the harvest cycle is initiated, it takes about eight minutes for the tray to rotate completely around and refill.
Above 19 degrees, it will not produce ice at all.You can tell if the motor is turning by looking at the end of the motor shaft as shown on the illustration.
There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the head, but the factory glues it in place during construction. In fact, the factory doesn't want you messing with these machines at all; if they malfunction, the solution is to replace them. I have had a couple of these icemakers apart and I'd have to agree with the factory in this case.
After you replace your old one, try pulling it apart and reassembling it and you'll see what I mean.A conversion kit is available to convert the refrigerator to a crescent-cube design, and I would highly recommend it. Instructions will be included in the conversion kit.During the harvest cycle in this design, the twisting action of the ice tray ends with a relatively violent SNAP!
Over time this can have several adverse effects.The icemaker can begin to pull its wall mounts out of the freezer wall. Cubes on the high side of the mold may be too small, while cubes on the low side may be too large or even slab together, and fail to eject.The plastic mold (tray) can crack, especially around the hub. If it is, there are a number of things that could be causing the icemaker to stop making cubes, but the solution to all of them seems to be to throw a new gear and pin set in both the front and back of the icemaker head. Gear alignment instructions are included with the new gears.There is no way to manually initiate a harvest cycle in these machines. When you replace and realign the gears and reinstall the icemaker, it will immediately enter a harvest cycle and fill with water.Time only accumulates on these icemakers when the cold control (the refrigerator's thermostat) is closed and the compressor is running.
Sometimes, the switch may burn out altogether and it will seem as if the machine isn't getting any power at all.
If the doors remain closed, the ambient air temperature (outside of the fridge) is low, and the compressor doesn't run much, you may experience low ice production. Thus, the icemaker must be plugged in at all times, even if it's not being used to make ice. If you no longer use the icemaker and wish to remove it from your machine, a module is available that replaces the icemaker with a smaller "box" unit that just performs the defrost function.



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