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31.08.2015
There will be water stops at the half way mark and there will also be homemade baking and refreshments in the national school at the finish line, for everyone to wind down and relax.
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Roads will be closed off for the 6k circuit and water stations will be provided on the course. The route starts and finishes at Derrywash National School and there are toilet facilities there.
When the event is over everyone can relax over a cup of tea and some of our famous homemade baking.
Depending on your puppy’s personality and how things go, this whole process could take a week or a month. They had the occasional hiccup, but were very receptive to the crate after decent training.However, growing up I had a Lurcher-cross-Terrier that we adopted and she took a lot of work before she was happy being crated for anything more than 15 minutes. You want to make it inviting and comfortable to lay in.If you happen to be crating more than one dog, follow a one dog per crate rule. A crate belongs to a single dog and is their own special place and not for sharing, particularly because dogs confined together are more likely to fight and there will be no escape.Finally, for safety reasons, before you ever allow your puppy into the crate, make sure they have nothing on.
Do not make a fuss of the crate.Let your puppy investigate it all by themselves as they go around eating the treats. When they do, pop a few more just inside for them to eat.After a few minutes, move away with your puppy and do something else. When they’re not looking, add a few more treats close to and just inside the crate, then go back to it and let your puppy investigate. This will help prevent them bolting out when the door opens later in life.Step 8Have your puppy lie down in the crate. Throwing a treat right into the back so they have to go all the way in to get it is just doomed to failure, just too big an ask.
Remember, we’re trying to take as many small steps as possible to promote the greatest chance of success! Click and praise every time, but do not reward every time.If you were to reward 100% of the time your puppy will learn to expect it and be disappointed and then rebel if they do not get rewarded.


They will perform only for the treat and only when they want the treat, not at any other time.
Ask for 10 seconds, then 20, then 40, then go back to an easy 5 before asking for 15 again.
Then increase by 30 seconds at a time until you can get to half an hour and beyond.Again though, be sure to mix up the durations you ask your puppy to spend in the crate.
Lots of short little times with longer ones mixed in.Perhaps over the course of a day, ask for 10 minutes for breakfast, then 3 minutes close to lunch, then 20 minutes for dinner, 2 lots of 3 minutes between dinner and bedtime, then all overnight. At the vets or when boarding, there will be many distractions outside of the crate and you should prepare them for this.Step 19Now puppy can remain calmly in the crate with the door closed, you need to start adding distractions. Play catch with a friend.Start with small distractions and build up to more noise and more motion slowly.Step 20The final step!
Then train in your car if it fits or you have a car crate.Finally, although not easy, try to do some crate training in friends houses and gardens.
And for house training reasons you do not want them pottying in their crate or inside your home. After this just once after 4 hours and then you can begin to stretch the time out until they last the night fully at 12 weeks+.When going for a potty break, you must be absolutely silent. So how do you make sure you aren’t ignoring a basic need and are only ignoring cries for attention?First of all you want to make sure they are empty before bed.
This means do not feed them in the 3 hours before and do not allow them to load up on water in the 2 hours before bed time. Some people don’t mind carrying the one crate from room to room, others buy two having one in each of the living area and the bedroom. Keep them out with you, on blankets or towels if supervised, or kept safe in an open top cardboard box if not. This will help to avoid any feelings of being alone, of being abandoned and associating these feelings with the crate.Crate them little and often while you are in the same room. This will teach them that being quiet is the only way to get you to come to them.As you approach, if they start to scream again, simply ignore them.
Stay in the room but busy yourself doing something else and do not turn your attention to them until they’re quiet again. All logic says it will go much smoother as it’s so unforced and running at your dogs own pace, therefore it will be far less stressful and almost certainly have a higher chance of success than rushing it. All it requires is to follow the rules and steps laid out above and the patience and dedication to see it through calmly and methodically.Some people may encounter problems.


I read the articles in the rest of the series and have been waiting for instructions to start crate training my Lab puppy. We will not crate her often, but just to help break the chewing habit as it’s getting expensive.
I wanted to crate train her, but it may be too late now because we have been putting her in there to sleep at night. She doesn’t hate it in there, but definitely howls and cries for a good amount of time before stopping.
Most other websites have always said to put her in the crate and, as hard as it is, ignore her whining until it stops on her own (given that she doesn’t need to be taken out).Thanks in advance! You should go to her just once during the night to SILENTLY take her to her bathroom spot (at 10 weeks it’s unlikely she can last the night). Any attention she receives will likely reinforce her behavior because you will inadvertently teach her that if she makes a noise for long enough, eventually you will come. And when you go to her in the morning to let her out, you should go to the crate and patiently wait there for silence before you give any attention or let her out. To her, going in the crate to sleep at night is entirely different to being crated during the day, entirely different again to being crated when you leave the house, and different again to using the crate as her own special den and place to go to for calm and quiet. However I am about to become a foster mum to a 13mth old Malamute x husky rescue dog who has moderate food aggression.
That’s gonna be a beautiful looking dog!I keep reading conflicting views on whether to feed a resource guarding dog in a crate or not. And I think your point of ‘it may add another ‘coveted item’ to her aggression‘ is very valid too! Dogs already see their crate as their own, and if they are prone to food guarding it might have some sort of stacking affect making her doubly on guard. But it would benefit her greatly to be able to eat alone, in peace, and not have situations arise where she feels she needs to guard her food. This can be achieved by making sure every person in the home knows not to approach her while eating, but also keeping other pets away too. Preferably this would mean feeding her alone in a separate room where she will not be approached, but if this isn’t possible then maybe feeding her in her crate is an occasional answer?Moving forward though, I would use as many meal times as possible as an opportunity to treat her food guarding problem.



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