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La vite di contatto, il binding post inferiore e il binding post superiore sono in ottone torniti e lavorati a mano. Italian Tattoo Supply - Vendita materiale professionale per tatuaggi utilizza WordPress Articoli (RSS) e Commenti (RSS). When coils are set where you want them, add a drop of liquid thread to the machine screws the last time you turn them in.
If you choose to wind your own coils, use #24 insulated magnet wire and a hand turned coil winder.
On the left side of the machine you will see where the wire from both coils are soldered together. When the machine is running, the armature bar strikes the front core of the first coil, but must not be allowed to touch the rear core. Whenever filing, first mark the surface with Prussian blue (available at art supply shops) so you will see just what you have done and where you are going.
Also, on most machines, you can move the spring-hanger slightly from side-to-side or back-and-forth a bit.
If points don’t meet to make a perfect contact, you can move side-arm in or out and on most machines fore or aft a bit - be sure the base is tightly gripped in vice when doing this. If you are having trouble with ink splattering out your tube tip, there could be several reasons for it.
First, make sure your needle is in the tube right with the needle on the bottom side of the tip.

Second, make sure the needle bar isn’t hitting the side of the tube as it goes up and down. The hard part is, if it starts splattering in the middle of a tattoo, you have to be able to figure it out, or continue with a splattering machine.
If you are going along and all of a sudden your machine quits, first check to see if it is your machine or your power pack. If your machine just up and quits on you all at once, or won’t run when you take it out, look for any loose or broken wires or connections. Once you get used to the “purr” that it makes when it is running good, you will be able to keep your points set at optimum efficiency quickly and easily just by hearing it. After you attach the tube and needle bar, you may have to readjust the point gap slightly to compensate for the extra weight. After continued use, the front spring that holds the contact point and the back spring that holds the armature bar to the frame will weaken and should be replaced.
To replace the springs, take needle and bands off, loosen the set screw on the front binding post and back the contact screw out four or five turns. To replace the assembly, slide the rear spring under the loosened rear screw, making sure the rear spring is back all the way against the screw and under both washers. Keeping your equipment running smoothly is very important and takes more than just a little luck. Use a light touch on the procedure, or you will go through a lot more contact points than necessary.

As a matter of fact, it’s a good idea to do this all around between the base of coils and base of frame to prevent moisture from entering coils. Most machines come equipped with capacitors to eliminate arcing and cut down on point wear. Armature bar can be lowered slightly by filing surface of spring hanger, which you will have to do after you bend it in order to level the surface.
Then line up the contact point on the front spring in a direct line with the contact screw. The contact screw points to One o’clock, when you hold up the machine and point the front (tube end) to your left.
First, put the screw back in the hole in the rear spring and start it into the armature bar. Before replacing assembly, take this opportunity to buff your contact screw, removing any pits. A point file can be used to flatten the surfaces if either one of them is burned or pitted. Emery cloth is very effective in cleaning up both the points and the contact screw, also a burnishing file works well.

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