While there are many great boat builders in Australia and many great designs out there, the fact still remains that there are no requirements for independent checks on designs or construction methods. When you consider the cost of materials, labour and engines, getting your boat designed right is a small fraction of the total cost. Fast Fact #2 : Commercial boats must have their designs and construction quality independently checked by a qualified surveyor - private boats do not. Fast fact #3 : The new builders plate requirements are a great step forward for safety however they do not cover structural strength or build quality. Fast Fact #5 : No independent checks of calculations are required before a builders plate is fitted.
Fast Fact #7 : Flotation foam installed under a sealed deck will not stop your boat from rolling over when swamped.
Fast Fact #8 : Flotation foam calculations and stability calculations are not required to be independently checked. Location: Lahore, Pakistan I am not an expert, but I know that very dissimilar materials should not be jointed as the different thermal expansions will ultimately affect the joints. Location: Scandinavia My advice is to forget it, I have refused every ?can you aluminium frame my old wood boat project? and always will. The thru fixings will need to be fully isolated the frames will need painting in the bilge areas and they will need to be very well gasketed to prevent pockets of moisture.
It's possible but these days there are better alternatives to wood metal composite construction. Location: Maryland Actually, wood over metal composite is a very neat method of building boats, especially since the metal parts are what would otherwise be the heavy wood members that are hard to get (since they have to be laminated or cut out of bigger pieces). A number of fairly large minesweepers were wood over aluminum, but there is very little weight advantage between aluminum and steel (for framing, not for the shell), and fasteners are a problem in aluminum (unless, of course, you are sweeping magnetic mines).
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I am looking for information with regards to the design, and detail drawings, In AutoCAD format, either .dwg or. For 16 to 22 foot aluminium boat design, similar to boston whaler designs, centre console type layout.

I am conversant with autuCAD, and have TIG welding experience, but am looking for designs with cutting schedules that could be profled by CNC machines to allow for ease of assembly. There are several designers in Australia that offer plans or plasma cut kits for small vessels.
Phil Curran of CDM Marine and Gavin Mair are two of the top alloy designers here on the west coast and they have websites. I have a 28 foot trailerable boat in alloy suitable for experienced builders but it is not a kit boat.
I have the original design for the prototype available but I am reworking the underwater lines for a stern drive leg (there needs to be more displacement aft for the change of LCB), which also affects the performance potential for the boat. The second generation hull will have a 120 hp diesel stern drive (although a four stroke outboard is possible) and will have a top speed of 20 to 22 kts and a cruise of 18 to 20. After I have built the prototype I will use the corrected sections to put together a plasma cut kit.
Location: Western Australia Alloy plate for hull Yes, I can see it would be tempting to use surplus plate to build a hull, and if it is a marine grade alloy (5000 series) it may save you some dollars up front.
Overall, I think the hassle factor of building in tread plate would result in an inferior boat. Moving my open bow runabout out of the garage I snagged the top of the windshield frame on the garage door and basically destroyed one section of it. I have access to some CNC machine tools and a wire EDM (making an extrusion die?) but I have no experience with aluminum extrusion or how to recreate the required contour. Location: maine I would replace the entire top exrtusion with a custom mahogany piece.
Either you get lucky and find the correct extrusion, or replace the whole top molding with matched pieces, or go with a wood replacement. It should be laminated from thinner strips, glued with epoxy, and well sealed with epoxy and many coats of varnish. Concrete and steel have very close coefficients of thermal expansion; therefore the combination is widely used for building structures.
Why would you want to use aluminium frames on a wood boat, cost, strength or some other reason, it can?t be that they would be easier to set up.

The fixings were commonly screwed from the inside and not through bolted except at the topsides and the keelson.
These normally cost a couple of thousand Australian dollars more than you could buy the alloy plate for, but they are often well researched and designed kits.
The current vessel has a 70 hp inboard diesel and has a top speed of arounf 15 knots with a cruise of 20 to 14 kts. I have not built the second generation hull yet, so I have only the developed frame sections, which do not always match the shape you get in the real world. If you are in this part of Australia you can come and look at the prototype, which has been in the water for 12 months. Some of the 5000 series alloys are not as stiff as 5083, which is what is normally used for hull construction, and you would need to allow for that. The cost of the hull materials is a very small part of the overall price of any boat and any compromise you make in construction can seriously affect the value of the boat. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do. They are normally complete with all alloy needed and can include alloy windows pre-made if required. I will do a plasma cutting schedule for the prototype but the frame sections will have a trimming allowance. They did have some advantages in a smaller frame hull contact area and less wood rot and greater fastening strength. I too plan on rebuilding the deckhouse on my 58 foot HATTERAS using aluminum frames with either alum plate or FRP over plywood sheeting. I have aluminum welding equipment and already own an aluminum ROAMER so I understand the ramifications etc., but I do need some design ideas. Because of the shrinkage rate of alloy during welding, anything that can be bent rather than welded should be taken advantage of.

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